Rockfax Description
Climb the flake as Zig-zag to the break then move right to gain and battle up the widening hanging crack - a bit full-on! © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Droyd 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Jimmy
andrzej kierzek 31/May/17 Lead dnf
JOHNB-W 01/May/17 Lead
with adam mitchell
CharlieMack 20/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Jeff, Andy, John allen
samdickensuk 02/Apr/17 TR O/S
Mr Wild 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

First day of trad in months, solid hvs.

Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead dog
Paul ablitt 05/Jun/16 Lead β
with Sarah
Natalie Berry - UKC 05/Jun/16 2nd
PeteWilson 29/May/16 Lead O/S

a bit steep and pumpy, but good holds and well protected. far more like the hvs bmc guide gives it than e1. enjoyable route

with John R
James Oakes 15/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead β
Mowglee 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with Antonio, Huw
Antonio Ferra ?/May/16 2nd RP
Heather Osborne 13/Sep/15 Lead G/U
Neil 25/Aug/15 2nd
Carl Watkins 25/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Neil
eel 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Al
tomwright1509 09/Jul/15 Lead β
Hidden 20/May/15 Lead O/S
chrisdjackson 14/May/15 2nd dog

Cam stuck a bit so got super pumped and hung on rope. Jams aren't my bag (yet) so should have thought around the problem.

with John
john lynch 14/May/15 Lead O/S
with chris jackson
Wizzy 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
NDD 24/Apr/15 Solo
Nick1812P 17/Apr/15 Solo O/S
franhammond92 30/Nov/13 Lead dog

Absolutely brutal. Got outrageously pumped and fell off a lot.

MSchobitz 30/Nov/13 Lead dog

A pumpy and difficult climb! Doesnt feel much like HVS

with Lewis Parsons
Teappleby 30/Nov/13 2nd
Calum Wadsworth 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ben T
Hexman 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Start felt harder than the finish! Gets E1 in rockfax

with Rich I
Bisteris 08/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Rhys Jenkins
DaveInPortwood 07/Jun/13 Lead

Hand-jam got stuck and nearly exhausted me before I could free it and finish.

Climbster 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 03/Jun/13 2nd β
with Matt
Cake 04/May/13 Lead dnf

Too weak currently

JBO 23/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Yet another of those burly grit routes which is too hard for E1, so it got HVS. Conditions weren't ideal, the break was full of green slime, the footholds below the crack were soggy and slippy, and the crack was so wet my jams kept slipping out. Eventually struggled up, great fight, hard HVS!

waynem1985 29/Sep/12 2nd
with Marc
marcduhig 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Another tough cookie. Foot hold down to the right comes in very handy if you move across low on a fist jam.

with Wayne
Rich Malcolm 08/Sep/12 2nd β
with Matt Brennan
Graeme Hammond 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S

bit burly but fairly straight forward jamming

Bradbury 04/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S
RossT 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Tim Bee
ukb & bmc shark 22/Jul/12 Solo
with Toby Foord-Kelcey
deacondeacon 30/May/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 30/May/12 Lead O/S
with deacon
jaamez 27/May/12 TR
with Ray Birch
Coel Hellier 25/May/12 Lead
benkelsey 24/May/12 Lead dnf

I am embarrassed to say. did not finish this one. hottest day of the year, excuses etc.. lowered of my cam in the break.

Ram MkiV 12/Mar/12 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Vincej ??/2012 2nd
with Nevil
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 Solo O/S
JaseSSDD 21/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Ian Barker
Hidden 27/Jun/11 -
ben_250 15/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Andrew, Tom
Hidden 15/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Oceanic 04/Jun/11 -
Gazleah ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 06/May/11 2nd β
petellis 17/Apr/11 Lead dnf

This is rapidly becoming my nemesis. This was the lamest effort of the 3 I can remember, had my SPI

with Bex
cem 17/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Different Steve 12/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Steve Gray
Peter Holder 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with Dave Green
Misha 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S

This was meant to be a bouldering day with perhaps a few routes if it warmed up. It wasn't actually particularly cold but we were essentially in a cloude the whole day, so it never got 100% dry and much of Burbage South was green anyway. Led this after Eddie backed off the starting moves. Those were ok but the finishing crack proved to be a bit of a battle due to being covered in slimy lichen. Poor footholds didn't help. Was pleased to find out it was 5b as felt very hard for 5a! The jams were good but painful. Also had a couple of goes at Nosferatu on a top rope that Brian, Ian W and Mike T had set up. Got all the moves second go (warm fingers helped) but would have needed a few more goes to link it.

with Ed
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead
DavidR 07/Aug/10 Lead dog

Fell off moving right for the finishing crack.

Hidden 29/Jul/10 2nd
Peter Holder 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 24/Jul/10 Lead dnf

not good as a last climb of the day for me..

with jim
Mr. K 27/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Nia Fletcher, Sam Walker, John Lewis, Bryn Wood
John Lewis 27/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Nia
dan gibson 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with dominic
Jonathan Hall 31/May/10 2nd
disturbed_one51 31/May/10 Lead

Finally did it! After my failure last time i came back fresh'ish' and brawled my way up it. Its surprisingly sustained and stenuous as there is little in the way of feet for most of it.

with Wee man
ajc 23/May/10 TR dnf
Alistair Corbett 23/May/10 Lead dog

Very hard Hvs! was down as E1 and defo is .

joe1979 20/May/10 Lead
liamoloughlin 17/May/10 2nd
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
kfowler141 26/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Solo O/S
bigie bob 05/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Mr. K ??/2010 2nd
nia ??/2010 Lead
disturbed_one51 30/Oct/09 2nd

Good until the crack but entering it feels really unstable, even when in, it feels awkward. Tried on lead but couldn't get into the crack as too pumped after boulders - Hannah finished it off and i followed

Hidden 28/Oct/09 Lead
Matt Bennett 28/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Lewis Grey
Hidden 27/Sep/09 -
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead
Maxim2023 16/Sep/09 Lead dnf
with Matt Smith
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
twigulus ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

opted for an armbar on dave's recommendation and it got stuck, ow. funny though

Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Jun/09 2nd RP
BeccaSnowden 14/Jun/09 2nd dog

Tried to lead first, total failure! Only fell once on 2nd though!

with Tom
thomasadixon 14/Jun/09 Lead dog

Never HVS, well hard!

with Becca
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd
tallsop ?/Dec/08 2nd

nice technical first half, savage traditional second half!

with Dave Saxby
highrepute 21/Sep/08 Lead RP

More Jamming practice needed

Rob Davies 02/Aug/08 Lead dog

Puzzling moves up after a strenuous start

with Phil Ashton
Bruce Kerr 25/May/08 Lead
craig matheson ?/Apr/08 Solo
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Dangerous Dave 12/Dec/07 Lead O/S
whistler 12/Dec/07 Lead dnf

couldn't feel my fingers so decided to retreat :)

dannyboy83 07/Oct/07 Solo O/S
nai 13/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Tim
tlr 13/Sep/07 2nd
with Pom
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead
adam carless 20/May/07 Lead O/S

One fall due to screwing up the traverse move and getting knackered. Packs a real punch for such a short route

SecretSquirrel 19/May/07 2nd

Seconded after falling on lead.

adam carless 19/May/07 Lead
Alex Mason 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S

tricky entering crack

Ram MkiV 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Al & Joe
climbingrick 16/Aug/06 Lead RP
Peakpdr 12/Aug/06 Lead dog

good god .. i take my hat of 2 anyone who does this in one clean lead ..this is hard

with phill
cem 30/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Luke Whiting
Hidden 18/Jul/06 2nd
aztec_bums 07/Jul/06 TR dog
with phillip jennings
Phil Jennings 07/Jul/06 2nd O/S
loonyclimber 18/Jun/06 Lead

Pumpy little number... felt harder than HVS

shoulders 17/Sep/05 Lead
Strong Steve 10/Jul/05 Lead G/U
reg_measures 21/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/05 2nd
Dave Bond 09/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 07/Aug/04 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Jul/03 2nd
mark s ??/2003 -
Hidden 07/Jul/02 Solo
simon kimber ??/2002 Lead dog
with Rob Barr, Tony Penning
Hidden 20/Oct/01 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jul/01 Lead dog
Carl Smethurst 01/Jul/01 2nd
with Ian Pickles
nickdonohue ?/Jun/01 Lead
with Kath Donohue
Gman ?/Aug/00 2nd O/S
with Carl
jamiev 18/Jul/00 Solo O/S

Utterly gripped on finishing crack

with Adrian Berry and John Arran
Hidden 16/Jun/00 Lead
Rich Malcolm 28/May/00 Lead O/S
with Matt Brennan
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
ajc 09/Jul/99 Lead O/S
John Marsland 26/Jun/99 Lead
with Mark Tolver
Hidden 29/May/99 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/99 TR
uphillnow 27/Aug/98 Solo
Hidden 16/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/98 2nd
Phil West 18/Jul/98 Lead dnf
with David Atherton
Martin Bennett 13/Jul/97 -
with Cec
Hidden ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S
Tim Bateman 20/Aug/95 Lead
Scott McRae ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Steve Jones
Hidden 07/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/95 Lead
Chris Reid 07/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/94 Lead
roncaves 26/Jul/93 2nd
with Gavin Williams
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
Hidden 28/Jun/92 Lead
andrew300169 12/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with TIm Dan & Their Dad
IanD353 ?/Apr/92 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??/1992 Solo
Roget 05/Jul/91 Solo O/S
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead O/S
Andy Say 07/Aug/90 Solo
NickJH ?/Jun/90 Lead dog
with I Smith, D Townsend
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 10/Aug/86 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/86 2nd
Neil McA 18/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with Martin Wilson
stp 08/Mar/84 Solo O/S
Mark Kemball 07/Oct/78 Solo
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 43
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set