UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
The slanting V-shaped groove gives a well-protected battle that is a complete nightmare if at all greasy, and it nearly always is. © Rockfax

FA. Gerry Rogan early 1960s.

Ticklists

Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Tom's crack funtimes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
The old James turnbull 14 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: my friend had a go at leading this today, climbed it well untill the ledge where he put his hand to find bird crap, peebles and a puddle and had to let go as couldnt get on it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: my friend had a go at leading this today, climbed it well untill the ledge where he put his hand to find bird crap, peebles and a puddle and had to let go as couldnt get on it.
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A desperately hard struggle that does nothing to reduce Burbage South's reputation as the home of fierce grit routes. A relatively straightforward initial crack (beware the polished footholds) suddenly tranforms into a tricky, moss-covered, thin crack (good gear) and a hideous mantel/flop onto a sloping ledge. Even then the small ledge above is flat, slopey and entirely lacking in decent holds! Would be worth a good E1 5c at any gentler crag...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A desperately hard struggle that does nothing to reduce Burbage South's reputation as the home of fierce grit routes. A relatively straightforward initial crack (beware the polished footholds) suddenly tranforms into a tricky, moss-covered, thin crack (good gear) and a hideous mantel/flop onto a sloping ledge. Even then the small ledge above is flat, slopey and entirely lacking in decent holds! Would be worth a good E1 5c at any gentler crag...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Burbage South Quarries

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 36
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Buttress ArĂȘte

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wharncliffe Crags)

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