Rockfax Description
The slanting V-shaped groove gives a well-protected battle that is a complete nightmare if at all greasy, and it nearly always is. © Rockfax

FA. Gerry Rogan early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

sam corbett 09/Jul/17 -
Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead
charliepickering 29/Sep/16 Lead dog
Rory_Cummings_NI 29/Sep/16 2nd
Jwatson 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/16 Lead rpt
MYox 26/Jul/16 2nd β
with Jon
Mr Wild 17/Jul/16 2nd

Very wet just before the ledge.

Markheighton 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Paul ablitt 05/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Hidden 16/May/16 2nd
Louishmouis 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Felix
griffithpatrick 14/Oct/15 Lead G/U

Was feeling well good reaching up for the ledge then it all went pair shaped. Fell pretty much to the bottom so started again from there. Bit of a dingy climb but still fun.

with Iago Thomas
Hidden 03/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Budge 26/Jun/15 2nd dog
with Ade
Hidden 16/Jun/15 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
JasonK 17/May/15 -
with Dan Shacklock
bob_cbr 17/May/15 2nd dog

Most of the time I was pulling on gear and dean was taking in the rope one inch at a time.

cragsman9000 17/May/15 Lead dog
with Neil
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead dog
si_pro_83 26/Jul/14 2nd
with Tubs
Tubs 26/Jul/14 Lead

The crux hit me just as I was wondering what all the fuss was about.

with Simon P
RKirke 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
lena.drapella 22/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Benjamin Corbey
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead dog
KamilJ ??/2014 2nd dnf
Calum Wadsworth 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

I agree with Rockfax about the grade E1 5c ... tough

with Ben T
btalbot 27/Sep/13 2nd
with Calum Wadsworth
mapperley samurai 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S

My first E1 lead so it will always have a special place. Feels technical and strenuous at the same time. Crux is not as expected.

davidalcock 17/Jul/13 2nd

Took a couple of fifteen footers trying to get onto the desperate ledge. Pulled ropes and Kevin led - great effort. Lovely little route - get it while it's dry. P.s. if this is hvs 5b then Congo Corner is vs 5a!

MPSBunny 14/Jul/13 Lead dnf

First proper fall and first E attempt. Placed my yellow cam just before the mantel shelf, went for the ledge then found myself hanging by my rope half way down the climb, probably took 2m in total. Tried it again just couldn't get the move so left it to John.

Brannock 14/Jul/13 Lead

More like E1.

Dom Cordner 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Sam Wimpenny
treg 07/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Patrick
Hardcore Pat 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Definitely E1, possibly 5C. No pushover.

with Matt Tregellas
Paul ablitt 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
SamWimpenny ??/2013 Lead

Dom Cordiner

samt ??/2013 -
WillDoyle 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Mike
Milnes 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

soaking, but just added to the fun of it 2 star route!

with pep
sopaz 26/May/12 2nd
WillDoyle 01/Sep/11 2nd
Graeme Hammond 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Excellent, if you find it in condition do it!! probably closer to the E1 5c ** in the latest Rockfax guide.

markalmack 16/Apr/11 2nd β
with james marjot
geddicakes 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Fraser
psronan 27/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd
ed woods 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
dan gibson 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Shaun
Jonathan Hall 31/May/10 Lead dog

Took one drop trying to get established on the mantel. Thought id best try the route as it was actually dry and cleanish for a change.

Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead O/S
RM199 ??/2010 2nd dog
nadeem 11/Aug/09 Lead dnf

The crack was FULL of slugs.

with Tom Foote
Hidden 02/Jul/09 2nd
dannyboy83 07/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Dad
Rob Davies 19/May/07 Lead dog

Some frantic cleaning of sand off ledge near top was needed

with Phil Ashton
Apharri ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Andre Hedger
Martin Haworth ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Richard
cem 03/Aug/03 2nd
with Liam Mark
Dave Bond 09/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead dog
clive-greenwood 16/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with HUMC
Hidden ??/1998 Lead dog
Roget 10/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 03/Sep/94 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 31/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Richard Wayte
IanD353 ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Jul/90 2nd
with I Smith
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
John Marsland 29/Apr/84 Lead
with Dave Cousins
Andy Say 12/Jun/83 Lead
Rob Davies 24/Jun/81 2nd

Blew my arms quickly, so Tony finished it

with Tony Welsh
Neil McA 11/May/80 2nd
with Mick Ward
mark-abz 07/Apr/80 TR
with Mick D
duncan ?/May/79 Lead O/S
duncan ?/Apr/79 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/78 2nd
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set