Rockfax Description
The blunt arete has a slippery start then climb the slab trending rightwards, a good test of footwork, to better holds, the odd tiny runner and a brisk mantelshelf finish. Stake belay. © Rockfax

FA. Len Millsom solo 1958

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

The Reaper 20/Sep/17 Lead β

Scoped out on abseil last week.

Toby 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Nate
sparkass 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Rob Lovatt
Cake 05/May/17 Lead O/S
Cake 05/May/17 Lead O/S
cragsman9000 20/Apr/17 TR O/S

Rushed for time, so left the anchor in place after climbing Dunkley's Eliminate and did this on toprope. Just my cup of tea. Will have to come back and lead it.

with Neil
CharlieMack 20/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with John allen
MrFantastic 22/Oct/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
rajeshwarbisht 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Flavio 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Felix la shat 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Louis
Louishmouis 06/Sep/15 Solo
ian d f 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mark S, Tor
Mark Stevenson 12/Jul/15 2nd rpt
amccann 11/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 11/Jun/15 Lead
with Rachel Briggs
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/15 TR O/S
mrteale 13/Apr/15 2nd
with MrBlond
MrBIond 13/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 06/Dec/14 Solo O/S
soph 03/Oct/14 Solo O/S
with Rachel Slater, Kook newstead
Jim Slater 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

All felt a bit sketchy with suspect gear, I was glad when it was over.

with Maia
cem 19/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Kirill 19/Aug/14 2nd dog

with couple of falls at the start

Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead
Oliver Houston 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
sarahsuth 27/Jul/14 2nd
lena.drapella 22/Jul/14 2nd dog
RKirke 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Lena
Hidden 21/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Chriswallis2 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Ally Robertson
Hidden 16/Jul/14 Lead RP
jshields 09/Jul/14 Lead

Previous solo '96. Does take good small gear, who knew!

with Greg Jennings
Hidden 06/Jul/14 TR O/S
the power 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

I was well scared

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 06/Jul/14 2nd
Andy Peak 1 21/Jun/14 Lead

Good climbing and good small gear:-)

Steeve 18/May/14 Lead β

Lead clean after a ground fall near the bottom of the second section. brilliant route.

Gambit 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tom
deacondeacon 02/May/14 Lead O/S

I don't know about three stars but very enjoyable. Gear is better than it appears from the ground.

mark20 02/May/14 Lead β
WillDoyle 16/Apr/14 Solo
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd
ffdalton 18/Mar/14 TR β

Wet windy morning which turned to rain. Rock face was wet to touch and just got worse as the morning went on, however Dean took first go and lead the route clean on sight. I took second go and took the route clean.Gear placements are good as we re climbed it on top rope and placed gear to check ready for the lead when its dry.

with Dean Dalton
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
KamilJ ??/2014 2nd O/S

Really nice one :) perfect for me, small cramps and edges but still stable, bit balance

Jus 05/Oct/13 Solo

more than a decade after the first time I soloed it just as good!

feilx 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Froud
feilx 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Froud
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Solo
Hidden 27/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Dom Cordner 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Sam Wimpenny
SamWimpenny ??/2013 Lead

Dom Cordiner

samt ??/2013 -
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Nick1812P 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Sidekick 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Fragmod 25/Jun/12 TR
Coel Hellier 25/May/12 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/12 2nd
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Marti999 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 04/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
al123 16/Jun/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead
Pythonist 02/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Chris Craggs 02/May/11 2nd

Harder again!

with Graham Parkes
Hidden ?/May/11 2nd O/S
tuftynick 26/Apr/11 Solo O/S

lovely climbing

Jonathan Hall 26/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Solo
aretherenoneleft 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Easy but scary. Good climb.

lrandall 21/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Felt pretty serious but I can't imagine it'd be any less serious with a rope dangling between your legs! Thin, sustained and excellent.

al123 10/Apr/11 Solo O/S

really fun, reminded me of a slate route.

henryjepson ?/Apr/11 Lead
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
richardashe 17/Oct/10 2nd β
Hidden 17/Sep/10 Solo O/S
AdamjBailes 16/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 06/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Finally led after years of being a blank gap in my hitlist. Not the most revisited spot Burbage Quarry! Anyway... Lead felt great, nerve jangly all the way, but with footholds and eventually handholds just about big enough to calm things. My gear eventually got pulled out sideways but there's enough up there to suffice when really needed

Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
jwpil 03/Sep/10 TR O/S
with Gordon
Pippa 08/Aug/10 Lead
with Jon
Pown 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead
nathanlee 04/Jul/10 Solo O/S


gordonday 26/Jun/10 TR rpt
with clive
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
dan gibson 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Shaun
9fingerjon 11/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Matt G
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead G/U
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
radioactivekid 23/May/10 2nd dog
with Kyya
Shauna 20/May/10 2nd O/S
with Jules
Hidden 05/May/10 Lead rpt
Ollie B 05/May/10 Lead O/S
with D. Waters
Graeme Hammond 04/May/10 Lead O/S

Really nice!! much more positive crimps for hands and good foot holds than on first appearances from below. Thought the crux was the move up to the first gear slot but as the moves where on good crimps it didn't feel bold. The gear was better than expected (actually rather good) and not warn though I did have some pea nuts that may have helped? top cam slots where fine too.

with Rob
Ketu 04/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Solo rpt
Fergus Cuthill 16/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 16/Apr/10 Solo
burto 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with fergus
Mr Powly 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Rozzy
nickcanute ??/2010 Solo O/S
RM199 ??/2010 Lead β
Hidden 27/Sep/09 -
Chris Craggs 25/Sep/09 TR

Felt harder than when I used to solo it!

Si dH 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good route. Gear (small nuts) is very poor and worn, I don't really think it would hold, particularly falling on to it from the right as you would. A WC zero 2 or similar tiny friend would be better, but my smallest (a zero 4) was way too big.

with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert
Adam Potter 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
highrepute 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
dangerousoldfool ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Matt S
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Rob Davies 09/May/09 Lead

Just enough gear to be OK

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
PenJD 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 05/Apr/09 Lead β
with Chris Vanderz
jameshall 21/Mar/09 2nd

First route since Oct...

with Tom Blond
Sankey 26/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Felt quite intense!

with Luke
Alex Mason 03/Sep/08 Solo O/S

Really nice route, sustained thinness.

with just me
al99 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
jw231 01/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Al Benson
Tommy G 27/Jul/08 Solo O/S

Agree that for an onsight solo this is an intense little number at E1

with Bri Mac
Jim Walton 09/Jun/08 Lead

Glorious, balance start, balance middle to gear (small wires) then nice moves up to top. Well worth three stars.

Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
mattwyles1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
joese7en ??/2008 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
alaan 09/Nov/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Nicos 18/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 02/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
EllieJ 22/Sep/07 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 10/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Sion
Hidden ??/2007 Solo β
Rjukan ?/Oct/06 -
with Sam
Budge 13/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ludovic Laurioux
WB ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S

fun little route

with Jim
uphillnow 18/Jun/06 Lead

done several times before

Joe Costello ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Liam
Andrew Barker ?/Apr/06 Solo O/S

Fantastic. My second route after moving to Sheffield.

Boy ??/2006 -
Mark Stevenson 08/May/05 Solo rpt
Dave Bond 26/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
cem 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Neil Northrop
DubyaJamesDubya 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
samwelli 22/Jun/03 TR O/S
with Reuben Brown
Hidden 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Mark Stevenson 26/Apr/03 Solo O/S
Monk ??/2003 Solo O/S
John Southworth 21/Sep/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/02 Lead
chris sm 27/Jul/02 2nd
Jus ??/2002 Solo O/S
willackers ??/2002 Solo O/S
with John Atkinson
Hidden 28/Jul/01 2nd
Carl Smethurst 01/Jul/01 2nd

Soft touch

with Ian Pickles
Mark Davies PK ?/Apr/01 Lead
with sean dark matter
Hidden 16/Jun/00 Lead
migs493 27/May/00 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, totally absorbing.

with LO
Hidden 08/May/00 Solo β
tlr ??/2000 Solo
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
Gus ??/2000 Solo
with ben rouse
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Graham Hewitt
bigphil 18/Mar/98 Solo
Bullybones ??/1998 Lead O/S
r0b 14/Aug/97 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/97 Solo
Hidden 13/Apr/97 Solo
Dave Douglas 02/Aug/96 Solo O/S

top holds were damp, made mental note to stop soloing.

Laramadness 08/Jul/96 Solo
robyn1 ??/1996 -
leadmat ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/94 Solo
Hidden 09/Jul/94 Solo
jamiev 14/May/94 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 31/Jul/93 2nd O/S
with Richard Wayte
IanD353 ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
andybirtwistle 22/Jul/92 Lead
with Ernie Greenwood
Chris the Tall ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jul/92 Solo rpt

Done immediately after I'd led it

Dave Musgrove 14/Jun/92 Lead
with Andy Watts
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/91 Lead
mark-abz 31/Aug/91 Solo
Roget 05/Jul/91 Solo O/S
Rich Kirby 23/Apr/91 Solo
crossleysm ??/1991 Solo O/S
Andy Say 07/Aug/90 Solo O/S
NickJH ?/Jun/90 Solo
with I Smith, D Townsend
beaumap ?/Oct/89 AltLd
with Bernie Green
Hidden 19/May/89 Solo
Hidden 13/May/89 Solo
Rob Davies ?/Mar/89 TR
babymoac 30/May/88 2nd
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
goi.ashmore 27/Sep/87 Solo O/S
Steve Crowe 16/May/87 Solo

with the direct start.

Nic_Sandy ?/Mar/87 Solo

I remember meeting a guy called simon (I think he was very good) and I asked him to show me some problems. He said you should solo this (Millwheel wall) I promptly did and then he told me it was E1, I had only just started climbing E1. I rode my bike home elated after that I used to solo it twice or three times a visit just to get my 'head in' so I could scare myself to death on Pebble, above and beyond and the knock. I climbed it when my dad came to visit he didn't say a word to me for an hour after!

Hidden ??/1987 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/86 Solo
Hidden 05/Aug/86 Solo
ukb & bmc shark 11/Jun/86 Solo O/S
Stoney Boy ??/1986 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove 14/Jul/85 Solo
AlanLittle 20/Apr/84 Solo
stp 08/Mar/84 Solo O/S
Chris Ellis 23/Oct/83 2nd
with Donald Gibson
Neil McA 10/Jul/81 Solo
Hidden ?/May/81 Solo
Hammy 18/Apr/81 2nd
with Jonathon Stacey
Neil McA 09/Mar/80 TR
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Mark Kemball 09/Jun/79 Solo
duncan ?/Apr/79 Solo O/S
duncan ?/Apr/79 Solo O/S
Andy Fielding ??/1979 TR
Hidden 23/Sep/78 TR
KRB 04/Aug/77 Solo O/S

Great route. Subsequently soloed in my old school shoes carrying a rucksack and coiled rope - for some reason.

Hidden 18/Aug/76 TR
andy gittins ??/1972 -
mikej 01/Aug/71 TR
with E
mikej 24/Apr/70 TR

Earlier in the morning I had taken Mike for an interview at Matlock for a Civil Engineering post. He did not take the job offer as he had decided to go into outdoors retail, first in Liecester and eventually in London. The rest is history.

with Mike Browne
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 47
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set