Rockfax Description
The wide, twisting crack is easier than it looks if you enjoy fat fist-jamming. Pull over the roof and sprint up the tricky crusty layback to finish. © Rockfax

FAA. Ted Howard early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Millstone HVS's, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Millstone * HVS In a day, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***.

Kirill 02/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/16 Lead
Andrew Barker 01/Sep/16 2nd
with Chris M
Chris Sansum 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Colin Milton
colin milton 24/Jul/16 2nd
with chris sansum
Hidden 24/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Andrew Sloan 30/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with pete
Hidden 29/May/16 2nd O/S
greenclimb 14/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S
eel 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Al
cragsman9000 19/Jul/15 Lead dnf

First climb of the day. Didn't get far. Removed gear and downclimbed.

with Neil
ian Wignall 18/Jul/15 2nd β
adi bryant 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
KeenClimber 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Jim Nutall
AnneMarie 24/May/15 2nd O/S

Excellent climb!!

with Nic Fleming
druss 17/May/15 2nd dog

Fist jamming practice but found it pretty wide for a good jam. Partner did a great job with smaller hands (not sure how he managed that!). Much harder when the crack runs diagonally with no edges for feet. Lay back'd it the end. Not sure about it being easier than it looks. Take 3 big cams (eg. DMM Dragon #6) :-S

poeter210 16/May/15 Lead dog
robgixer 13/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/14 2nd
Cake 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Found the fist crack difficult for obvious reasons. It's easy to forget the 2 star routes at millstone are worth doing too.

KamilJ 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Endrju, Dan
Nevil 04/Aug/14 Lead
with Mike
Brannock 24/Jun/14 Lead rpt


dannyboy83 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Got soaked in the rain

with Stuart
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead
treg 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Been waiting to borrow some big cams to get this done. Well worth the wait. Amazing fist jams that are pain free due to smoothness of the rock inside the crack.

with Dan Osbaldeston
uphillnow ??/2014 -
robgixer 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
AidanMorris 16/Nov/13 2nd
jshields 06/Oct/13 Lead
bendevonport 06/Oct/13 2nd dog
tonevert 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
eduardo 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Misha
Ramon Marin 02/Sep/13 2nd
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

The guide book said it's easier than it looks if you like fat fist jamming... I'd never done fat fist jamming before so it was not. Brilliant but absolutely terrifying.

with Ramon
masa-alpin 01/Sep/13 2nd β

Attractive looking crack, and fun route.

with Tony H
aking12 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
john lynch 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ant King
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Brannock 06/Jul/13 Lead

Finished up Gimbels, crack a bit of a tussle.

Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
DeanD 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
victim of mathematics 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Not too bad once I'd worked out how to use the crack. Not sure how the HVS to the right is very independent, given that I had at least one limb in it most of the time.

with Adam
adam carless 07/Oct/12 2nd O/S

a bit of awkward offwidth fun and some traditional grovelling, but very enjoyable anyway.

Mr. K 07/Oct/12 Lead dnf
James Oswald 07/Oct/12 2nd
The Reaper 18/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 22/May/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Coel Hellier 19/Aug/11 Lead
ste_d 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with mik
conorcussell 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
tebs 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

I was treated to a Mattia masterclass of traditional climbing on this one; the whole thing seemed to be a no-hands rest from start to finish. Layback section is quite tough and I found it much harder than the fun offwidth.

dj_brigham05 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
nickmattia 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with bartshaw
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
saul cashmore ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
ewen 22/Sep/10 -
with neil stabbs
JulesV 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Shauna 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Jules
Dale ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S

good fun more yosmite training ony just got the jug at the top of the big curving crack the top I found easier the climbing keeps coming though

disturbed_one51 25/Jun/10 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 25/Jun/10 Lead
chrisbussell 02/Jun/10 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 18/May/10 2nd O/S
Pown 18/May/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
James Oakes 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence
mattyork2 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with James Karran and Grante!
GrantB 05/Sep/09 2nd
with James
sadams 22/Aug/09 2nd
with Es Tresidder
Hardcore Pat 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
Hidden ?/Jun/09 -
simonp ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan Green
Hidden 22/Apr/09 Lead
mel holmes 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with John Nutall
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead
RM199 ??/2009 -
Slarti B 27/Sep/08 2nd β

Fantastic and a bit scary, even as second. Getting up overhang was challenging but a nice mix of techniques needed.

with Mario
Different Steve 14/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Simon Chandler
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 08/May/08 2nd O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
nofx ??/2008 -
pelvoux 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S

First route of the day. Struggle up to the top of the crack

with Mario
Andrew Sloan 17/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Richard
AJ007 26/Apr/07 Lead
with Dan
dan gibson 26/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with AJ
Ropeboy 06/Aug/06 Lead
Andrew Sloan 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with scott
Different Steve 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Chesh 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Lawrence and Scots Paul also seconded

with Mash
cem 11/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with David T
Hidden ??/2005 -
ukb shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
Hidden 01/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
skygodley 20/May/01 Lead O/S
Trobbo 07/May/01 2nd
with andy hartley
Roget 28/May/00 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 02/Jun/96 -
with Jerry Evans, SF
babymoac 29/Jun/86 2nd
with MTW
John Marsland 09/Dec/84 Lead
with George Shaw
Neil R 29/Jul/84 2nd
with Mark
Tom V ??/1984 -
charlesmfrench 10/Oct/82 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 26/Jun/82 Lead
with Jim Paxman
Andy Fielding ??/1982 Lead
with Mike Gilbert
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
mark-abz ??/1982 2nd
with ?
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1980 Lead
with Dorothy Bogg
Mark Kemball 25/Nov/79 2nd
with Mark Brewster
Rob Davies ??/1979 2nd
with John Tout, Angus McLean
Al Evans ??/1976 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 30
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set