UKC

Contributed by Heiko Jul/24 - This public ticklist has been seen 483 times

Inspired by Duncan Critchley's Nose in a Day guide's "Training ideas in the UK".

https://ukbouldering.fandom.com/wiki/The_Nose_in_a_Day#Other_Challenges

Roughly: 31 pitches of HVS-E2 with at least one or two stars, or what else fits, skipping unsuitable or bad routes. Added two E3s for good measure as they suit well. Will keep on editing until it feels like a good circuit.

Notes:
* Oxford Street - P1 only, to avoid 6b move. Repeat finish of Piccadily.
* Time for Tea (mild E3) instead of repeating the upper part of Embankment 4.
* Embankment 1 & 3 - includes upper pitches! (Can be done out of order).
* Embankment 1 - skip lower pitch, use Emb2 right hand crack to gain access instead.
* Great West Road - P1 only, to avoid unprotected arête late in day.
* Crewcut - No laybacking!
* Lyon's Corner House Direct instead original to avoid repeating the start of Erb.
* Gates of Mordor (safe E3) - Explicitly mentioned by Duncan as a benchmark ... "with no great struggle!"

Ordered in a way to be able to escape the sun most of the day in summer, starting at keyhole and ending in the north bay.

In amongst the heather at Millstone  © Simon
In amongst the heather at Millstone
© Simon, Jul 2004

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Paul Murdy showing us how its done on Regent Street E2 5c © JRae

Regent Street
Paul Murdy showing us how its done on Regent Street E2 5c
© JRae

More Erb © Nick Smith

Erb
More Erb
© Nick Smith

In amongst the heather at Millstone © Simon

Time for Tea
In amongst the heather at Millstone
© Simon

Adrian Berry on Time for Tea (E3 5c) at The Embankment, Millstone © http://Climbers.net

Time for Tea
Adrian Berry on Time for Tea (E3 5c) at The Embankment, Millstone
© http://Climbers.net

Catching the sun on Bond Street, HVS 5a © Iain Mount

Bond Street
Catching the sun on Bond Street, HVS 5a
© Iain Mount

Laudi on 'Plexity' © Andrew Marshall

Plexity
Laudi on 'Plexity'
© Andrew Marshall

Time for Bed.....perhaps? © DJayB

Time for Tea
Time for Bed.....perhaps?
© DJayB

Reaching for the good hold in the golden light of a hot spring evening on Time for Tea © JessClmbr

Time for Tea
Reaching for the good hold in the golden light of a hot spring evening on Time for Tea
© JessClmbr

Another ridiculous beta sequence from the blind guy, don't follow my chalk... © mol

Regent Street
Another ridiculous beta sequence from the blind guy, don't follow my chalk...
© mol

Brimstone © Bob Twigg

Brimstone
Brimstone
© Bob Twigg

Bond Street © Marek

Bond Street
© Marek

Dexterity © Nick Smith

Dexterity
© Nick Smith


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Shaftesbury Avenue HVS 5b * 418 20m Millstone Edge
Regent Street E2 5c *** 1894 22m Millstone Edge
Piccadilly Circus E2 5c ** 547 24m Millstone Edge
Oxford Street E3 6b * 91 22m Millstone Edge
The Mall VS 4c *** 3683 22m Millstone Edge
Great Portland Street HVS 5b *** 3140 20m Millstone Edge
Bond Street HVS 5a *** 4267 20m Millstone Edge
Whitehall HVS 5b ** 433 26m Millstone Edge
Embankment 4 E1 5b *** 1961 22m Millstone Edge
Time for Tea E3 5c *** 1237 20m Millstone Edge
Embankment 3 E1 5b *** 2892 26m • 2 Millstone Edge
Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-hand Crack Only) E1 5c 372 12m Millstone Edge
Great North Road HVS 5a *** 3273 32m Millstone Edge
Knightsbridge E2 5c *** 809 34m Millstone Edge
Great West Road E3 5b *** 358 34m • 2 Millstone Edge
Crewcut VS 4c ** 464 22m Millstone Edge
Billingsgate E1 5b ** 842 20m Millstone Edge
Lyons Corner House Direct HVS 5a ** 590 28m Millstone Edge
Erb E2 5c *** 808 28m Millstone Edge
Eros E1 5b ** 946 14m Millstone Edge
Supra Direct HVS 5b * 816 20m Millstone Edge
Dexterity E1 5b ** 2148 20m Millstone Edge
Commix E2 5c * 85 20m Millstone Edge
Plexity HVS 5a *** 1302 22m Millstone Edge
Gimbals HVS 5b ** 304 18m Millstone Edge
Estremo HVS 5a ** 379 16m Millstone Edge
Hacklespur HVS 5b * 138 16m Millstone Edge
Gates of Mordor E3 5c ** 375 16m Millstone Edge
Satan's Slit HVS 5b * 137 14m Millstone Edge
Brimstone E2 5b ** 697 12m Millstone Edge
30 e, 64 stars 35,406 642m 32
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