Rockfax Description
A class act with a big feel. The fine steep crack in the centre of the wall leads through a series of bulges to a ledge out on the right. Balance back left above the roof and sprint for the top. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1957.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Millstone HVS's , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Millstone * HVS In a day , 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 *** , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Michelle's crack ticklist , Millstone Edge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| charley | 7 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: There\'s a very chilled pigeon nesting on the ledge, under the hanging crack. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's a very chilled pigeon nesting on the ledge, under the hanging crack. |
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| RaRaTheTiger | 19 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Cracking route, quality climbing, spot on at HVS 5a and worthy of *** Sadly lost my no2 yellow camalot to the final crack at the end of the headwalll. If anyone is able to recover this I'd be grateful! Long shot but please get in touch. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cracking route, quality climbing, spot on at HVS 5a and worthy of *** Sadly lost my no2 yellow camalot to the final crack at the end of the headwalll. If anyone is able to recover this I'd be grateful! Long shot but please get in touch. |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 11 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Great route with committing pull onto the headwall. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route with committing pull onto the headwall. |
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| JDDD | 18 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Tip top route. Sure, Great North Road are excellent routes, but routes like this should not be over looked. It has a classic aspect about it with the climber having to negociate overhangs and bird do do. All adds to the atmosphere. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tip top route. Sure, Great North Road are excellent routes, but routes like this should not be over looked. It has a classic aspect about it with the climber having to negociate overhangs and bird do do. All adds to the atmosphere. |
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| Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH | 12 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Are you sure you did the right route Tom? This is a stunning line, only downside was the bird sh*t but you can scoot around that no problems. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Are you sure you did the right route Tom? This is a stunning line, only downside was the bird sh*t but you can scoot around that no problems. |
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| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 27 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: What a terrible route! One of the most disappointing routes I've done at Millstone. Never, ever worth 3 stars. Dexterity, Bond st etc are in a different league. | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a terrible route! One of the most disappointing routes I've done at Millstone. Never, ever worth 3 stars. Dexterity, Bond st etc are in a different league. |
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| Offwidth | 25 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Great route and HVS 5a*** is spot on. There is a hand jam in the top crack which when established should be enough to allow you to place gear (the lips are often sandy). Those with short arms will need to crimp at 5b+ at the move back left but I could reach. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great route and HVS 5a*** is spot on. There is a hand jam in the top crack which when established should be enough to allow you to place gear (the lips are often sandy). Those with short arms will need to crimp at 5b+ at the move back left but I could reach. |
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| Munir Hassan | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Its 5b in On Peak Rock, which is probably fair for the crux move back left to continue on the crack following the overhang. The climb is good up to that point, but the move left (in my view) pushes the route into the three star category. A beautiful HVS solution to an otherwise very difficult move over the overhang. Great North Road is also excellent, and more consistent. But it doesn't have any moves as startling as the one required to overcome the crux of Plexity. Loved it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Its 5b in On Peak Rock, which is probably fair for the crux move back left to continue on the crack following the overhang. The climb is good up to that point, but the move left (in my view) pushes the route into the three star category. A beautiful HVS solution to an otherwise very difficult move over the overhang. Great North Road is also excellent, and more consistent. But it doesn't have any moves as startling as the one required to overcome the crux of Plexity. Loved it! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Bond Street
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)