Rockfax Description
Climb the deep, greasy groove to the tip of the Cioch, and a possible belay. Finish up the exposed arete above. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke 1956

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

gaz3212 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Andypeak 25/Jul/17 2nd
Simas87 09/Jul/17 AltLd
with Chloë Brown
Twinter82 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Tricky corner to start leading to a very exposed arête that was great fun. My second "saw the devil" at this point.

Handsforfeet 01/Jul/17 2nd
Ben5Hardy 18/May/17 2nd O/S

Definitely worth a star - great route. Would be even better in dry conditions!

JasonK 18/May/17 Lead

In the drizzle, but was a surprisingly good route

Hidden 18/May/17 Lead
stevelismore 18/May/17 2nd O/S

Climb was green and manky to start with, and was raining at the time, so I bottled out on the lead.

with Krzysztof
josefft 18/May/17 2nd O/S
with JasonK
Hidden 23/Apr/17 2nd
quickdrawmcraw 08/Apr/17 Lead
with mike foxall, Amy121
atom 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

A little slimy for the first half but the top makes up for it with a fine exposed position

Becks87 23/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Top part much more enjoyable than bottom half. Nice step out from the arete.

alexjf 03/Oct/16 Lead O/S

no arete

with Lauren
charley 01/Oct/16 2nd rpt
with Jack
FrancisI 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Kyle
justtoots 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/16 2nd
CJSuttz 05/Aug/16 Lead rpt
james5810 30/May/16 Lead
dbradbeer 30/May/16 2nd O/S
Mark Loveday 30/May/16 2nd O/S
with andrew
Browny 21/Apr/16 Lead O/S
BTphonehome 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Matt
Matt_C9716 20/Apr/16 2nd
with Bram
Jack_Clinch 20/Apr/16 Lead
PanzerHanzler 17/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Paul Bartrum
Capricorn One 27/Sep/15 2nd
pawel suhy 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Finish through the top corner

Flavio 13/Sep/15 Solo O/S
gpcomps 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Felt hard for a severe, some careful footwork required in the first half

miketong 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
yorkshiresherpa 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Chloe
Manc88 01/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Maybe it was the heat exhaustion, but seemed bloody tough for a Severe! Worthy of more than 0 stars too.

justtoots 24/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Robs_Uren 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with David Mason, Caitlin
Caitlin 21/Jun/15 2nd
with Princess
islandlynx 19/Apr/15 2nd

Alex's 2nd lead.

Tim Harper 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Duncan
Mikethe boar 14/Apr/15 -
with Rick Mattheson
JohnBotham 14/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 14/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
mattr 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Capricorn One 10/Oct/14 Lead

Climbed in two pitches, just for fun.

Giorgiogents 24/Sep/14 -
Graeme Hammond 01/Sep/14 Solo O/S
with The Famous Grouse
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
royle883 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Gardening required

jimbonfire 03/Aug/14 -
zzee83 15/Jun/14 2nd

Abseiled off.

with Andy Hind
AlexFletcher 14/Jun/14 Lead
sam26051 14/Jun/14 2nd
MikeDowsett 14/May/14 Lead
with Tigger
Papa J Love 13/Apr/14 2nd
Wevcore 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Jen Gilbert
Ian Stirrups ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Sue
SJohnson 01/Dec/13 TR
LukeRobinson 01/Dec/13 TR
jordangolding 01/Dec/13 TR
marr.simon 01/Dec/13 TR
hirving 01/Dec/13 TR O/S


with Gilsey
Hidden 01/Dec/13 TR
Hidden 01/Dec/13 TR β
quinn sorabjee 01/Dec/13 TR O/S
deanhorsburgh 01/Dec/13 TR
lewiswilson 01/Dec/13 TR
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead
taff raymond 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Climbster 21/Sep/13 2nd β
with Julia
Palindrome 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Similar feel to Hells Bells on the other end of the crag but not as strenuous. Best of the 3 severes at Cioch Bay.

Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd
mattvitel 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with steve fox
rpinto 21/Jul/13 2nd β
with bartek.p, Tom Jarv
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
gemmasimpson77 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Pete
OliverIF ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mapperley samurai 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ben Moss
Hidden 14/Apr/13 2nd O/S
GStone 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S
schwenk 23/Feb/13 2nd
with Seb
bigredsquirrel 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

Good climbing in the corner, using crack technique and bridging. Good gear on route. Steep finish high up with loose rock is a bit frightful, needing a cam to protect. I slipped onto gear 3 metres up and continued with climb.

with Edward Hutchings
albt 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
taff raymond 09/Sep/12 Lead
DerbyLiam 08/Sep/12 2nd
najki_2000 02/Sep/12 2nd O/S

a bit dirty in places

with Chris Rose
andyob 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with jonny
goddamm7 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with tim green
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
rich_greeny 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Greasy on the lower section, exposed on the step out to the arete.

with Alastair Dixon
Hidden 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Amyola 23/Jul/12 2nd β
Hidden 04/Jun/12 -
Vincej 05/May/12 Lead
with Nevil
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd
ryansb90 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

A bit damp but still a lovely climb. Didn't finish up the arete.

Keendan 07/Apr/12 Solo O/S

Just the second half

with Vernon
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Ardo 17/Mar/12 2nd
the power 17/Mar/12 2nd
Marcin78 ??/2012 Lead
with Rafal
ashtond6 ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
DanC1985 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Martin
robin_hackney 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
ojp 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

linked after HVS to get out. Nice moves and exposure

with Dave
c00kie 28/Sep/11 2nd
with Gavin
sputnik 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Mrs Z
Hidden 11/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/11 Solo O/S
spragglerocks 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Steve M
SteveM 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Rachael
Steve J T 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
simeclimb68 30/Apr/11 Solo O/S
k2blow 03/Apr/11 Lead

nice route, bit loose near the top but no bother, nice exposed bit after the shelf move round onto face then direct up crack good gear, used the fence post at top for anchor,

with jamie ward, john howes
Marcin78 ??/2011 2nd
with Paul
treg 14/Oct/10 2nd

Started up Close Shave then switched to much more satisying airy arete finish of Coich Corner.

with Chris S
climbing_wiggy 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Leon
Lenny 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with John, Paul
PanzerHanzler 04/Sep/10 2nd rpt
pizza 23/Jul/10 2nd
Duncan Beard 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Climbed the start of Close Shave and the finish of this for an excellent 3* Severe in one pitch.

Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
RockaJo 05/Jun/10 2nd β
with Mikael
MikaelW 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Jo
zappa 24/Apr/10 2nd
emmafromSB 24/Apr/10 Lead
with zappa
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
JasRY 13/Mar/10 Lead β
with Phill tooley
Hidden 13/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
chumleywarner 31/Oct/09 TR O/S

green and slimey, recommend for a summer acent though

valentinesbabe 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

a bit green but would be a lovely climb when dry

with Charley Fell, Peter Ziak, Steven Fletcher
charley 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Quite a nice climb but was way too green.

with Steve Fletcher, Ange, Peter
Hidden 07/May/09 2nd
chris_r 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
summo ??/2009 -
donkster ??/2009 Lead O/S
with ben
Col Kingshott 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
hang_about 20/Jun/08 AltLd

al lead 1st pitch, I lead arete

with big al
marccb6 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead rpt
PanzerHanzler 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
FrankW 26/May/08 2nd O/S
with Liz Y
tom 21/May/08 Lead
Sarahshort246 01/May/08 Lead
yan ?/May/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/08 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 09/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/07 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/07 2nd
Gooders 08/Sep/07 Lead
with John Cox
Chris Ellis 10/Jul/07 Lead
with Helen Odwell
dannyboy83 08/Jul/07 Solo O/S
btc 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Susannah Ellis
SamStrong 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Vig Gunasegaran
Hidden 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
phill bentham 21/May/07 Lead O/S
DerwentDiluted 03/May/07 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
thrutch ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with helen
Jim Vach 28/Apr/07 2nd
with S
davek 02/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Thanks to Shaun L for encoragement to start leading again.

with Shaun L
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Ewan Russell 02/Nov/06 2nd O/S
with Jim Fraser
arin78 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Lara
Different Steve ?/Aug/06 2nd rpt
with Pete Krug & Louise Farr
loose85 16/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Dane 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Ali
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Sankey ?/Jan/05 -
Jon Wickham 01/Aug/04 2nd dog
loose85 15/Apr/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Darragh ?/May/03 -
with Rob
Hidden ??/2002 -
NorthernRock ?/Aug/92 Lead
craig d ??/1992 -
babymoac 30/Apr/89 2nd
with Howard
Hidden 17/Aug/86 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1985 2nd
tapley 20/May/84 Lead
with David Bacon
Tom V ??/1984 -
Mark Kemball 22/Feb/82 Solo
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Hammy 17/Apr/81 Solo
with Jonathon Stacey
Neil McA 13/Jul/80 Solo
with Dean, Mick Ward
duncan ?/May/79 Solo
John Marsland ??/1979 Lead
with Barry Gray
Rob Davies ?/Jun/78 2nd
with Steve Platt
Nigel Bond 19/Apr/78 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Hidden 27/Jun/77 Solo
Hidden 27/Jun/77 Solo
Chris Ellis 07/Jun/76 2nd
with Dave Ellis
Al Evans ??/1976 -
RichardMc 09/Jun/75 Solo
RichardMc 26/May/74 Lead
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1973 -
rogerskews ??/1972 -
with Neil Hawkesworth
johnwright 27/Jun/71 2nd
with A Whitworth
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 27
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set