Rockfax Description
Pumpy climbing up the crack cleaving the wall. Where it thins, go direct, runners and holds keep appearing. Escaping out left before the final section is more like a stiff HVS. From the ledge select a way on/off. © Rockfax
FAA. Harold Drasdo 1957.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , 50 cracks to Squamish , Get out on Rock , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , WideBoyz Crack School , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Millstone * HVS In a day , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Michelle's crack ticklist , Proper Cracks UK , Bob's Cracking Winter Jamming Crack List , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Top 25 routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TylerColeman | 13 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Watched Adam fall for no reason. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Watched Adam fall for no reason. |
||||
| AdamFreeman | 12 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fell off just before the lay back. Should have got the on sight, but ah well | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Fell off just before the lay back. Should have got the on sight, but ah well |
||||
| a_radiohead_fan | 9 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: did this on me first ever trip to the grit. utterly desperate. cant jam for s*** and kinda laybacked and heaved me way up. was well up for pulling left but realised i had gone to far up and so had to finish it off. surely this must be e1. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: did this on me first ever trip to the grit. utterly desperate. cant jam for s*** and kinda laybacked and heaved me way up. was well up for pulling left but realised i had gone to far up and so had to finish it off. surely this must be e1. |
||||
| The old James turnbull | 13 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: if you pull left you will miss the crux and up to there pretty strait forward and not very pumpy, if you like jams! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: if you pull left you will miss the crux and up to there pretty strait forward and not very pumpy, if you like jams! |
||||
| Glen | 17 Mar, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely jamming. Very hard work at the top though - had to slink off left for the easier finish. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Lovely jamming. Very hard work at the top though - had to slink off left for the easier finish. |
||||
| Mick B | 9 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route. If you liked Bond Street, you`ll love this. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Great route. If you liked Bond Street, you`ll love this. |
||||
| MNA123 | 10 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seconded the left way and found it really quite hard, but i hate cracks. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Seconded the left way and found it really quite hard, but i hate cracks. |
||||
| Ropeboy | 16 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The gear is too good for E1, nice and steady till the top where it really kicks in. Don't hang around too long or you'll get pumped! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The gear is too good for E1, nice and steady till the top where it really kicks in. Don't hang around too long or you'll get pumped! |
||||
| Jon Greengrass | 15 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: fanatastiv jamming to leaning headwall, but i spent so much time trying to lace it with gear i was to knackered to pull through the moves when i finally went for it and took a nice big fall on to solid gear. I skanked of left at HVS 5a in the end | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: fanatastiv jamming to leaning headwall, but i spent so much time trying to lace it with gear i was to knackered to pull through the moves when i finally went for it and took a nice big fall on to solid gear. I skanked of left at HVS 5a in the end |
||||
| GrahamD | 1 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Solid jamming with rests until halfway, then go for top ! Superb and safe. No in situ birds nest this weekend. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Solid jamming with rests until halfway, then go for top ! Superb and safe. No in situ birds nest this weekend. |
||||
| Nick Smith - Climbers | 10 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The direct finish is simply superb. Very pumpy climbing, with some technical foot work. There may be birds nesting in the recess at the very top - beware! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The direct finish is simply superb. Very pumpy climbing, with some technical foot work. There may be birds nesting in the recess at the very top - beware! |
||||
| ap | 29 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: is it a jamming crack? i didnt jam, and pulling out left is definantly for wimps... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: is it a jamming crack? i didnt jam, and pulling out left is definantly for wimps... |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Time for Tea Original
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)