UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Pumpy climbing up the crack cleaving the wall. Where it thins, go direct, runners and holds keep appearing. Escaping out left before the final section is more like a stiff HVS. From the ledge select a way on/off. © Rockfax

FAA. Harold Drasdo 1957.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, 50 cracks to Squamish, Get out on Rock, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Tick List for 2015/2016, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Millstone * HVS In a day, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Michelle's crack ticklist, Proper Cracks UK, Bob's Cracking Winter Jamming Crack List, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Peak District Grit Graded List, Big trad grit list, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs

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User Date Notes
TylerColeman 13 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Watched Adam fall for no reason.
βeta?
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βeta: Watched Adam fall for no reason.
AdamFreeman 12 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fell off just before the lay back. Should have got the on sight, but ah well
βeta?
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βeta: Fell off just before the lay back. Should have got the on sight, but ah well
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: did this on me first ever trip to the grit. utterly desperate. cant jam for s*** and kinda laybacked and heaved me way up. was well up for pulling left but realised i had gone to far up and so had to finish it off. surely this must be e1.
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βeta: did this on me first ever trip to the grit. utterly desperate. cant jam for s*** and kinda laybacked and heaved me way up. was well up for pulling left but realised i had gone to far up and so had to finish it off. surely this must be e1.
The old James turnbull 13 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: if you pull left you will miss the crux and up to there pretty strait forward and not very pumpy, if you like jams!
βeta?
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βeta: if you pull left you will miss the crux and up to there pretty strait forward and not very pumpy, if you like jams!
Glen 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely jamming. Very hard work at the top though - had to slink off left for the easier finish.
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βeta: Lovely jamming. Very hard work at the top though - had to slink off left for the easier finish.
Mick B 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. If you liked Bond Street, you`ll love this.
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βeta: Great route. If you liked Bond Street, you`ll love this.
MNA123 10 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Seconded the left way and found it really quite hard, but i hate cracks.
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βeta: Seconded the left way and found it really quite hard, but i hate cracks.
Ropeboy 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The gear is too good for E1, nice and steady till the top where it really kicks in. Don't hang around too long or you'll get pumped!
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βeta: The gear is too good for E1, nice and steady till the top where it really kicks in. Don't hang around too long or you'll get pumped!
Jon Greengrass 15 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: fanatastiv jamming to leaning headwall, but i spent so much time trying to lace it with gear i was to knackered to pull through the moves when i finally went for it and took a nice big fall on to solid gear. I skanked of left at HVS 5a in the end
βeta?
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βeta: fanatastiv jamming to leaning headwall, but i spent so much time trying to lace it with gear i was to knackered to pull through the moves when i finally went for it and took a nice big fall on to solid gear. I skanked of left at HVS 5a in the end
GrahamD 1 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Solid jamming with rests until halfway, then go for top ! Superb and safe. No in situ birds nest this weekend.
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βeta: Solid jamming with rests until halfway, then go for top ! Superb and safe. No in situ birds nest this weekend.
Nick Smith - Climbers 10 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The direct finish is simply superb. Very pumpy climbing, with some technical foot work. There may be birds nesting in the recess at the very top - beware!
βeta?
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βeta: The direct finish is simply superb. Very pumpy climbing, with some technical foot work. There may be birds nesting in the recess at the very top - beware!
ap 29 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: is it a jamming crack? i didnt jam, and pulling out left is definantly for wimps...
βeta?
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βeta: is it a jamming crack? i didnt jam, and pulling out left is definantly for wimps...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 186
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 180
Votes cast 165
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Time for Tea Original

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)
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