Rockfax Description
Up the balancy arete of the Cioch (hard to start) to its tip, then finish up the exposed arete of Cioch Corner. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: Millstone HVS's, Millstone * HVS In a day, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***.

Hidden 16/Aug 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug Lead O/S
PanzerHanzler 09/Jul Lead rpt
with Paul H
77paul 09/Jul 2nd O/S
with Andy hansler
quickdrawmcraw 08/Jul 2nd
with amy
Amy121 08/Jul Lead
Hidden 08/Jul Lead
Fellmonkey 11/Jun 2nd O/S

Felt right on the edge of friction on the arete, not brave enough to lead yet!

Phil West 01/Jun 2nd O/S
with Chris Tan
aiyer 28/May Lead O/S
with Wendy
Wendy Watthews 28/May 2nd O/S
with Abby
hfotheri 27/May 2nd O/S
with simon
Becky 01/May TR O/S
cragsman9000 29/Apr Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 23/Apr Lead
Hidden 09/Apr Lead O/S
kermit_uk 02/Apr 2nd O/S
Neil McA 02/Apr 2nd rpt
with Jake McAdie
maria85 27/Mar 2nd O/S

Tricky, but difficulties are over pretty quickly.

with Neil
Hidden 27/Mar 2nd
hiyaneil 27/Mar Lead
with maria85
Hidden 23/Oct/16 Lead
perrys 19/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Tim Lowe
williap 16/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Waddle
Afell 09/Oct/16 2nd
jon_gill1 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Stu, Matt Chapleo, john ripley
sheelba 02/Oct/16 2nd
with Ralph
ralphio 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Sam
ripper 02/Oct/16 Lead
charley 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Jack
melv 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Fi
Hidden 02/Sep/16 2nd
Andrew Barker 01/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Chris M
marcus_goff ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Andy
Afell ?/Sep/16 2nd
ferdia 14/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/16 2nd
martinbettridge06 30/Jul/16 2nd
Ian Saxton 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with martin
jing 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Hard started. Nice route.

with Gary W
garywong 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/16 Lead
pauldrew 19/Jun/16 Lead
with Dennis Wong, Jim Jones
Tim Cooper 19/Jun/16 2nd β
pawel suhy 19/Jun/16 2nd dog

One rest on crux. Good climb

Jim Slater 19/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Tricky start moves, helps once you get the wire placement in.

Jan.Hrb 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Ales
GeorgeNunn ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with George Reeder
MikeyP 07/May/16 Lead
Andy Moles 06/May/16 Solo
patrickcd 21/Apr/16 Lead
with Ed
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/16 2nd
MrFantastic 07/Mar/16 Lead O/S

finished up Close Shave by mistake

with Catherine
Hidden 19/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Horton 17/Oct/15 Lead dog

Struggled with gear at the start - got the rest cleanly

TomRiddelsdell 17/Oct/15 2nd β

The start is high in the grade. Wouldn't choose it as my first HVS!

pulseroom 17/Sep/15 2nd
Georgie25 26/Aug/15 2nd
Keith Swainson 26/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Georgie
DanC1985 03/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Sarah
JasonK 01/Aug/15 Lead

Backup off, just felt a little too tenuous for my wilting psyche after some rain...

with Kevin
Lukem6 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
KeenClimber 14/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Ian Dugdale
bantamdave 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Tough, great lead by Alison

with Ian Athrol, Alison Athrol
mike.moss 30/May/15 Lead dog
mapperley samurai 17/May/15 Lead O/S
thompsettjack ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Rafal Malczyk 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Catherine Smith, Martin Bagshaw
Katsmiff 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Painful on the fingers and toes to start with. Fine the rest of the way.

Martin Bagshaw 25/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Catherine Smith, Rafal Malczyk
Tim Harper 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Duncan
JohnBotham 14/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 14/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/15 2nd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 09/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Coel Hellier 06/Apr/15 Lead
Webster 05/Apr/15 2nd
MrBIond 12/Mar/15 Lead O/S
marclloyd77 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with James Mann
r.greaves 07/Mar/15 Lead
with Anthony barison
MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead O/S
Matt Groom 21/Dec/14 Lead
Mike505 12/Oct/14 Lead G/U

Botched the start (would like to say because it was damp and greasy but should probably look in the direction of footwork), Brilliant climb to start the day though!

khalidq 02/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Dan Vaj 02/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Khalid
the power 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with deacon
deacondeacon 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S


with Chris Waddle
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
djones66 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Found it hard to put wires into the crack at the start - difficult to get in balance. The sequence up to getting established on the first big jug felt quite hard and precarious. After that, unfortunately a little too easy. However, the arete on the second half is fun. Worth doing.

with Stve mc D
drsdave 24/Aug/14 2nd

looks more difficult than what it is, the left edge of the start arete is the key

with Mat
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Lead rpt
robblowen 09/Aug/14 Solo RP

Top rope solo. Got it 2nd go after slipping off a rather greasy foothold about 3-4 metres off the ground!

PenJD 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
vanderz 11/Jun/14 2nd
with PenJD
Andrew Barker 28/Apr/14 Solo O/S

To top of Cioch then escaped down ledges.

with Si
aking12 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S
john lynch 26/Apr/14 Solo
RosieLynch 26/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd
Binder 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Hugh T
ebf 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Yeah, it's all about the start. Very nice S/HS grade finish up the exposed upper arete.

dazwan 30/Mar/14 2nd
drobin 05/Mar/14 Lead
charvey 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Hard moves for the first 4m then it just keeps getting easier.

Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd
MSchobitz 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with micki
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead dog
Colin Scotchford 05/Oct/13 2nd
ricky6386 24/Sep/13 2nd dog
eel 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd dog
morganator 21/Sep/13 2nd

Pleasant, short lived difficulties low down

Climbster 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Julia
soph 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
ipegg 08/Sep/13 2nd
therat 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Backed off start, but without a fall, after getting pumped placing the second runner. Started up again and lead it clean.

Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
mrteale 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mark4344 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

tough start.

with Andreas
tsl42 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

Fall/take just before getting on arete. Messed up sequence.

with Dylan
quickdrawmcraw 22/Jun/13 2nd
alooker ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Paul, Ed
tebs 12/May/13 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead rpt
nimajneb ?/May/13 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/13 Lead RP
Fragmod 24/Apr/13 2nd
john lynch 24/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with ed luke
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
JemG 10/Apr/13 TR O/S
Dawn_K_B 10/Apr/13 TR
rachelpearce01 10/Apr/13 TR O/S
Jake Young 10/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Jem
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
Hidden 14/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
HarryB 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Si
ojp 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Nice to route

with Harry
tebs 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Phil
goddamm7 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with tim green
Adil 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead dog
eduardo 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Hennelly
clipskipper 28/Jul/12 2nd

Bouldery start is the only tricky section. Easier for the tall (aren't they all)

DavidR 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
Gambit 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Barney
chrisbussell 03/Jul/12 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 18/Jun/12 2nd
Webster 05/Jun/12 2nd rpt
BFG 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rosie, john Bramwell
treg 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rachel
stev1e.wilso 13/May/12 2nd O/S
with Simon, Dylan
simon1985 13/May/12 Lead
bigbadbob12345 13/May/12 2nd
Fragmod 13/May/12 Lead
AlexKervyn 13/May/12 2nd β

First part is a lovely, balancy fingerjam and smear. After that, relatively easy, although the traversing part of the arrète was frightening as second.

elCapitano 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Henry
M_W_Court 12/May/12 Lead
with Dave Luke, Alex Kealy
Theeni 12/May/12 2nd
with Ian Sutcliffe
Peakpdr 06/May/12 -
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd
Keendan 07/Apr/12 Solo O/S
with Vernon
RM199 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 24/Mar/12 Lead
mike lawrence? 01/Mar/12 Lead
with luca
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
ash longreach ??/2012 2nd
with John
Marcin78 ??/2012 2nd
with Rafal
Piers Harley 24/Oct/11 2nd
with Laurence King
LJKing 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Piers Harley
climbing_wiggy 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Leon
Lenny 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Paul
petellis 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Stone Muppet 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Start of super direct into this at about VS

with pe
robin_hackney 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
ojp 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Nice low moves

with Dave, Robin
rich_hw 01/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Dave Foster 01/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Robin, Si
bencole ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Guy Atkinson 22/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Really fun moves up the starting bit!

Hidden 21/Sep/11 Lead
tompilgrem 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice moves to start climb-crux- once established on arete it eases.

with Bob/Tom
dan gibson 01/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with helen gibson
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead
tracyclimber 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

In very wet conditions on slab!

stuaart 21/May/11 2nd O/S
with Chris Burn
chris_B 21/May/11 Lead

done before

chris_B 21/May/11 Lead
Hidden 14/May/11 -
Kendrick 29/Mar/11 2nd
with Mr Hobbs
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jake Young 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
mark20 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Thin moves low down then a romp

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd RP
Tony Holdsworth 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Ian Holtby
holters 25/Sep/10 2nd
RagingPuffin 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead β
DaNo123 04/Sep/10 2nd

Ham's led couch corner, followed up the HVS

PanzerHanzler 04/Sep/10 2nd
whiting.jp 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Start was certainly rather sketchy.

with jamesca
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
hawkins321 01/Aug/10 2nd β
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Stuart Wildman 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Shep
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Anthony mccourt 23/May/10 2nd β
Anthony mccourt 23/May/10 2nd β
Shauna 18/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve
joe1979 09/May/10 Lead
Andy Peak 1 05/May/10 Lead O/S
with pabage
pabbage 05/May/10 -
zappa 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
emmafromSB 24/Apr/10 2nd
with zappa
Hidden 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Webster 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

take lots of small wires, micros even if you have them. enjoyable route but dont bother with the severe top out, its shit, absail off of a tree.

wilchivs 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Dave Webster
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
nia ??/2010 Lead
with Ben Redgate
Ketu 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Paul, Charles M
cem 06/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
sammo247 02/Aug/09 2nd
daveclarke5 27/Jun/09 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead
gazfellows 21/Mar/09 2nd
Lewis Andrew 18/Mar/09 Solo O/S

nice climbing. fun!

adam carless 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Very tricky for the first 10ft. Probably 5a if you can figure out the best sequence, 5b if you just go with what seems obvious. It's a romp to the top after that.

with dpmuk
dpmUK 15/Mar/09 2nd dog
summo ??/2009 -
Dave Foster 28/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Technical and quite bold start, easier after swing left on fat pinch.

with Andy
BigToe 27/Sep/08 2nd
Whealiebob 27/Sep/08 Lead RP
with Stee
dycotiles 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead β
Brown 18/Sep/08 Solo O/S
with Henry
petellis 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
mel holmes 22/Aug/08 2nd
with Tony Reed
mel holmes 22/Aug/08 2nd
with Tony Reed
Hidden 26/Jul/08 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead RP
PenJD 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Mick Fox
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Pete Horn 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Gerard
EdShep 12/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Pilch
Hidden 12/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Pilch 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Clean ascent this time, but still found it hard and precarious

with Ed
dickie01 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Good route

with and a third, Ross Comfort
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead rpt
FrankW 26/May/08 2nd O/S
with Liz Y
dannyboy83 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Joe
Hidden 13/May/08 Lead
Karlos 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Paul Lee
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
mattwyles1 ??/2008 2nd
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
roberto18 17/Aug/07 Lead
with Martin Bridges, Chris Bridges
Joe Dove 12/Aug/07 Lead
with paul
Hidden 30/Jul/07 Lead
jamiev 10/Jul/07 2nd β
with Kenta
btc 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Susannah Ellis
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd
PanzerHanzler 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S
sjblake 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S

JL's Notes - Nice & Technical. Ab'd for the gear when Steve couldn't manage it. Probably not a wise move trying it - felt guilty.

Hidden 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 24/May/07 2nd
with Ruth
tlr 22/May/07 Lead
with Jez Portman
dicky79 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Pete
coffeepot 05/May/07 2nd
with jelaby
Martin Haworth ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
dan gibson 26/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with AJ
AJ007 26/Apr/07 Lead
with Dan
Hidden 18/Apr/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
with James Fleming
Hamster 05/Nov/06 2nd dnf

4 goes at the lower section, to terminal forearm pump. A project.

with Lundyman
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
Rob Davies 27/Aug/06 Lead


with Phil Ashton
Hidden 29/Jul/06 2nd
greg101 29/Jul/06 2nd
with Matt O'Connor
Hidden 24/Jun/06 Lead
chrisclimber_1986 19/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with William Kelsall
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 25/May/06 Lead O/S
Peter Swift 30/Apr/06 TR O/S

Great, love it.

with Tim H
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
EG 13/Apr/06 Lead rpt

Having messed around on the start of the route, the 2000mph wind blowing over the top didn't help much. Pretty much got blown up the last 7-8 metres of the climb. End of climbing for the day!

with Kristy
EG 29/Oct/05 Lead O/S

Usual problems of placing gear where I needed to place my fingers on the first few moves on the cioch; the rest was easy.

with Kristy
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt

Fantastic sunset - then rain

Hidden 03/Jul/05 2nd O/S
Adam Potter 07/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 29/May/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
ukb & bmc shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
Different Steve ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Rupert Holbrook
Reds 16/Jun/02 Lead dnf
with Rod
Hidden ?/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Andy S ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
martroberts 01/Jun/01 Lead O/S

Worrying start.Great top half

cem 29/Apr/01 Lead O/S
with Neil Northrop, Miles Butteriss
DerwentDiluted 20/Apr/01 Lead
with Laurie Smith
Phill Mitch ??/2001 Lead O/S
with steve winter
Carl Smethurst 08/Oct/00 2nd O/S
with Ian Pickles
Martin Bennett 30/Jul/00 -
with Tim
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 2nd
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Budge 12/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Brian Ottewell
BruceW ??/1996 Lead O/S
uphillnow 26/Mar/95 -
Hidden ??/1995 2nd O/S
leathers 11/Jun/94 Lead β
with Charlotte Evans
Hidden 16/Apr/94 Lead
nai ??/1994 Lead
malc 05/Sep/93 Lead O/S
with ??
Roget 19/Jun/93 Solo O/S
with colin, baccy
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Bill G
Scott McRae ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S

Very first HVS lead after winter on Wymondham climbing wall. Tricky start and confident finish required. Could not boulder start on a later early season visit!

with Steve Jones
craig d ??/1992 -
roncaves 18/May/91 2nd
with Steve Leather
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Apr/90 2nd
with D Townsend
babymoac 16/Jul/89 Lead
with Alan S
Rob Davies ?/Jul/88 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/88 Solo O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24/Jul/87 Solo
Hidden ?/Jul/87 Lead
GordonHart ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Kevin
Andy Fielding ??/1984 Lead
with Steve Hartland
Anton Eady ??/1984 Solo

My usual solo style, i.e. bouldered the start then couldn't reverse it.

Tom V ??/1984 -
mark-abz 17/Sep/82 Lead
with Andy W
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Hidden 18/Jun/81 Solo
RichardMc ??/1980 -
Hidden 27/Jun/77 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/77 AltLd
Mark Kemball 24/Apr/77 Solo
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1975 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 64
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set