Rockfax Description
The thin peg-scarred crack splitting the front of the Cioch proves tricky at the bulge. No escaping out right! © Rockfax
FAA. Mike James 1959. FFA. Pete Brayshaw 1975.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Millstone HVS's , WideBoyz Crack School , Millstone * HVS In a day , Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks , 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 *** , Michelle's crack ticklist , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , The Peg-Pocketeer , Millstone HVS-E2 NIAD prep circuit , Recent Developments in Stanage and Froggatt Area , Peak Crack Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pete_Frost | 18 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Put cams on revolver carabiners in for the first protection to stop the nuts above pulling out in a fall. Use a green cam at the crack just below the overlap. Put a nut in the crack on the lip of the overlap. Use the footholds way out right to set up to layback the overlap. It gets slightly easier above those moves. Put a huge sling over the top of the pinnacle. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Put cams on revolver carabiners in for the first protection to stop the nuts above pulling out in a fall. Use a green cam at the crack just below the overlap. Put a nut in the crack on the lip of the overlap. Use the footholds way out right to set up to layback the overlap. It gets slightly easier above those moves. Put a huge sling over the top of the pinnacle. |
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| Kiddie68 | 23 Mar, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: I don'y understand how this goes at HVS. At the crux, there's 2 average finger locks, the one better one just out of reach. I used multiple crimpy side pulls on the right face to get to standing in the slot above the bulge. Great pro, but utterly desperate (5c?) climbing. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I don'y understand how this goes at HVS. At the crux, there's 2 average finger locks, the one better one just out of reach. I used multiple crimpy side pulls on the right face to get to standing in the slot above the bulge. Great pro, but utterly desperate (5c?) climbing. |
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| Ropeboy | 16 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easier than it looks. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Easier than it looks. |
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| chubby | 20 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thin fingers an advantage | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Thin fingers an advantage |
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| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 12 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not too bad as long as you don't hang around too long at the bulge to put in gear. Good finger locks | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not too bad as long as you don't hang around too long at the bulge to put in gear. Good finger locks |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Knight's Move
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage North)