Rockfax Description
The thin peg-scarred crack splitting the front of the Cioch proves tricky at the bulge. No escaping out right! © Rockfax

FAA. Mike James 1959. FFA. Pete Brayshaw 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Millstone HVS's, WideBoyz Crack School, Millstone * HVS In a day, Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***.

Curly Rich 15/Apr Lead dnf
with Usual lot
Hidden 09/Apr Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham 09/Apr 2nd rpt
with dan arkle
quickdrawmcraw 08/Apr Lead dog
with mike foxall, amy
PaulTanton 02/Apr 2nd O/S
with Claire
kermit_uk 02/Apr Lead dog
EstherHyde 18/Feb 2nd
Afell 18/Feb Lead O/S
luke glaister 19/Nov/16 TR O/S

Hot aches big time. So cold. Slipped a few times . Slightly wet from the snow/sleet that feel in the night. Would like to of lead but not worth the risk. Had to make the best of the 3 hour drive. Will be back..

youwillfindjimbo 08/Nov/16 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Oct/16 2nd O/S
ashtond6 23/Oct/16 2nd
Paul Figg 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull 25/Sep/16 Lead
with rich howells
melv 17/Sep/16 Lead
with Fi
danJBA 10/Sep/16 Lead β
Hidden 02/Sep/16 2nd
Andrew Barker 01/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Chris M
Andy Moles 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
Hidden 10/Aug/16 2nd
xiangoh 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/16 TR O/S
CJSuttz 05/Aug/16 Lead G/U
Droyd 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Weirdly unsatisfying, in that the large ledges to the right are there, and to not use them would be pointlessly eliminate, but the instant I put my foot down I felt disappointment and a sense of having cheated. Good moves and protection though.

with Chris
Hidden 05/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/16 Lead
pauldrew 19/Jun/16 2nd
with Dennis Wong, Jim Jones
George.nunn1993 ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with George Reeder
Thinker01 30/May/16 Lead
RFWilkie 30/May/16 2nd O/S
with Mark
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead O/S
ferdia 17/May/16 Lead O/S


with Tony
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Alex_Derbyshire 19/Oct/15 2nd
with Lloyd
rajeshwarbisht 17/Oct/15 2nd dog
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
pulseroom 17/Sep/15 2nd
djones66 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Was pleased to do this clean. Felt hard to me, but such good gear was hard to get too worried. Turns out that when you've got established on the upper slab it gets a lot easier.

with Stve mc D
Thunderthighsontheloose 11/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Dave
Hidden 11/Sep/15 Lead
ChrisBrooke 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

E1 in my old Rockfax. HVS seems much more like it. Cruisy climbing on solid finger lockers.

with Andy, Cat Freeman
KeenClimber 14/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Ian Dugdale
TobyA 18/Jun/15 Lead dog

Good gear but hanging around long enough to place it is hard!

with Josh
lanky 18/Jun/15 2nd
with TobyA
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 07/Jun/15 2nd RP
with dunnyg
Capricorn One 04/Jun/15 2nd
with Pete PCC
bryce.dorin 30/May/15 Lead dog
with Craig
The old James turnbull 23/May/15 Lead
with rich howells
sdixon 26/Apr/15 2nd
ashtond6 11/Apr/15 2nd
Palmer 21/Mar/15 2nd
Palmer 21/Mar/15 2nd
marconi 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Chris
MrBIond 12/Mar/15 2nd β
mrteale 12/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with MrBlond
john lynch 03/Mar/15 Lead
with Maj
MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead G/U
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR O/S
with Louis
Hidden 09/Nov/14 2nd O/S
The Grist 09/Nov/14 Lead RP
with Tom Doldon
john lynch 02/Nov/14 Lead
with Bethan D
aking12 10/Oct/14 Lead dog
RosieLynch 10/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Hannah Asquith, Andy Asquith, Ed Austin, Anthony King
benkelsey 03/Oct/14 2nd O/S


Nick1812P 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Dan, Ben
Ollie B 21/Sep/14 Lead β

Bob led, pulled the ropes then I led.

with B.Brewer
phildawson 18/Sep/14 2nd
with Chris Shepherd
Hidden 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
robgixer 13/Sep/14 2nd
ashtond6 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Thin fingers practise

alp79 07/Sep/14 2nd dog

Direct, had to rest before stepping up through the roof. Would like to do again clean.

Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Stickle Tarn 18/Aug/14 Lead dog

Slipped on the crux. Probably because I was super pumped. Fell on No.4 nut. Wasn't too bad once I'd got the move worked out.

ashtond6 18/Aug/14 Lead rpt
David Mayers 13/Aug/14 2nd
with Stuart Howard
rurp 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard work, solid climbing, numb fingers

with bill farmer
Nigel Bond 26/Jul/14 2nd
Brannock 26/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Board line HVS.

Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead rpt
ashtond6 05/Jul/14 2nd

silly pop on easy ground haha

twoshoes127 12/Jun/14 Lead
Ewano 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Was told it was HVS 5a so did it first, seems more reasonable that E1 5b. Bit of a one move wonder.

Hoyes 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Batt 31/May/14 2nd dog

Slippy feet on the crux :(

spragglerocks 31/May/14 AltLd

James led the actual climb. Foot slipped on crux, I just led the easy arÍte to the top.

James Oswald 21/May/14 Lead dog

Yoyo'd after Kyle fell off. Then fell off myself on the crux! Glad this has been upgraded to E1. Tough if you can't get your foot on!

Mr. K 21/May/14 2nd dog
henry peter jenkins 16/May/14 2nd
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
j.buckley87 14/May/14 2nd dog
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead RP
aking12 02/May/14 Lead
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead
Andrew Barker 28/Apr/14 Lead

To top of Cioch. Good moves.

with Si
aking12 26/Apr/14 Lead dog
RosieLynch 26/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 24/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 24/Apr/14 Lead dog
belay bunny turned bad 09/Apr/14 Lead
with Mark w, al
MSchobitz 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Really good line and a hard route to practice fingerlocks on. Getting stood up above the bulge is definitely the crux, but the gear is bomber.

with USMC
ClemB 05/Mar/14 2nd
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
gdjcoleman ??/2014 2nd dnf

Escaped right at the bulge

with Simon
uphillnow ??/2014 -
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Sep/13 -
Hidden 08/Sep/13 -
Brannock 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

Shamefully had a rest, cold hands/flash pump, more like HVS...

deacondeacon 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Wayne S 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with John
sopaz 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Mackie
admackie 18/Aug/13 -
Lenny 11/Aug/13 2nd β
with john- mers
jon22 11/Aug/13 Lead
with Leon Winchester
Reedymc 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

nice moves nice finger stacks..

Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
riff156 22/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Bob Hotchkis
quickdrawmcraw 22/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/13 2nd O/S
OliverIF 16/Jun/13 Lead RP

Got it second time

tebs 16/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Ciaran, Adam
Mr Wild 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
Tom Cox 06/May/13 Lead O/S
SteveJCox 06/May/13 2nd
with Tom Cox
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/13 2nd dog
john lynch 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with ed luke, Lewis Andrew
ashtond6 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
WillDoyle 20/Apr/13 Lead dog

Went right for a rest.

JemG 10/Apr/13 Lead dog

Kept slipping off trying to go over the bulge. It didn't help that I wasted time hanging about worrying about gear.

Jake Young 10/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Jem
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead rpt
ashtond6 16/Feb/13 Lead rpt
madasten 10/Nov/12 Lead dog

Got pumped placing gear over the bulge so had a cheeky rest. Was gutted to find that the top section is really easy despite looking sustained and intimidating! Should have gone for it first time. Never mind! Cracking little route

with Miquel
Fragmod 03/Nov/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead
Curly Rich 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with GMC Peter Neden, GMC JohnP
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 02/Sep/12 2nd
staceyjg 02/Sep/12 2nd

Seconded this, rested just before crux!Pulled through the overlap with a high left rockover, rather strenuous, once at the top of the crux, hands off rest while tendonitus thrummed for a bit! Moved on when this calmed down, chuffed with this effort, but not sure if I'd go as far as it being E1.

Calder 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Mark
Diggler 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Johnny, andyob, Calder
tebs 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Phil
Bry 29/Jul/12 2nd β
with Jim
clipskipper 28/Jul/12 Lead dog

Failed to commit to the crux straight away and got too tired faffing around.

Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
David Kay 22/Jul/12 2nd

Followed the blood marked holds. You know you enjoyed it really Jamie!...

with Jamie Sparks
DavidR 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Did this as a second a while back...first time on it on lead.

Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Tamati 25/Jun/12 2nd
disturbed_one51 25/Jun/12 Lead
Graeme Hammond 23/May/12 2nd rpt
Hannes B 18/May/12 2nd
with Ash
Obi-Wan is lost... 12/May/12 2nd
with Calum
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd rpt
robin_hackney 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Si
Hidden 04/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Keendan 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Thought the crux was bold but I guess the gear was there if I wanted to use it. The top slab had some reassuring footholds.

with Vernon
ajc 31/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Nick
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead dog
the power 17/Mar/12 2nd dnf
Ardo 17/Mar/12 2nd dog
Tomprusk 29/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Hannah P, Rosie
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead dnf
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Kevster ??/2012 Lead O/S
JaseSSDD 20/Nov/11 2nd dog
with Ian Barker
climbing_wiggy 22/Oct/11 TR dog

1 rest. Lovely climb

with Leon
Lenny 22/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Paul
GrantB 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Crispin
Stone Muppet 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Start of Mayday into this but probably went too far right so HVS

with pe
chrisbussell 28/Jun/11 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd
Shauna 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
Graeme Hammond 31/May/11 Lead O/S

really nice, fortunately much easier than it looks, perfect juggy finger locks and gear. HVS 5b

Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Lead
Reaver2k 09/Apr/11 2nd
with tom.e
tom.e 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Alan
jimmyrua 09/Apr/11 Lead β
with Glaswegian folk
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Kyuzo 19/Mar/11 -
mark20 08/Mar/11 Lead RP

After bailing out right last time

Hidden 08/Feb/11 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Byronius Maximus 23/Jan/11 Lead

Not sure I should claim this as I went too far right at the bulge, didn't read the guide before. Probably more like HVS 5a that way.

cymjt ??/2011 -
Jonathan Hall 30/Oct/10 Lead

Agree it would be HVS if you cheat like a bastard. Otherwise its gotta be E1.

Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 17/Oct/10 TR RP
mark20 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Guy Atkinson 12/Oct/10 2nd dog
Milne 12/Oct/10 2nd O/S
DavidR 19/Sep/10 2nd dog

Fell off moving above the overlap.

ojp 21/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave, Si
Dave Foster 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Si
chris j 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Doug
Hidden 29/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Oli
Stuart Wildman 04/Jul/10 Lead β

This site say E1 5b, the Voting HVS 5b. I found Mayday easy and this a bugger. After the bulge, bugger all feet, though was last climb of the day.

Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead dog
joe1979 11/Jun/10 Lead
JeromeT 18/May/10 Lead O/S
Birdo 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Bird
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Dan Lane 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Cool fingerlocks and bomber gear. Move over the overlap wasn't as hard as expected.

with Catherine Elliot
Different Steve 10/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins, Martin Hore
nadeem 13/Mar/10 2nd
RM199 ??/2010 2nd dog
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
nia ??/2010 Lead
with Ben Redgate
Hidden ??/2010 Lead β
Hidden 09/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead
Cragrat Rich 30/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Very E0! It's everything that's good about Millstone but not long enough

belay bunny turned bad 23/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Debbie, loundsy
Coel Hellier 22/Aug/09 Lead
Nicos 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/09 Lead
givemetea 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Louisa
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd dog
LoopyLou ?/Jun/09 Lead dog

One to return for.

with Roslyn
gordonday 13/May/09 Lead rpt
with clive
Reaver2k 02/May/09 Lead dog

Attempted this just because it looked really awesome. Turns out its pretty hard aswell! Was fine up to the lip. Placed a pretty poor nut which I wasnt happy with, and pumped out hanging around trying to spy out the next moves. Placed a better piece above which gave me more reassurance and did hard layback/fingerlock moves, no idea what sequence I used but included quite a few fingerlocks - not my forte - and poor footholds! Ran up near the top of the crack and found a bomber fingerlock to place gear with and threw myself up and over the top! Nice, but I found it hard - as is almost always the case with well protected HVS's!

with Tom, Graeme, Michael, Andy
Tony Holdsworth 02/May/09 2nd dog

failed to lead - tired at end of day!

with Richard White
mel holmes 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alex@home
alicia 24/Apr/09 2nd
with Thea
chris sm 24/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
masa-alpin 13/Sep/08 Lead dog
with P Luke
w.pettet-smith ?/Sep/08 Lead dnf

bastard. failed on it twice now.i reckon the bulge is well 'ard.

with claire jane carter
Claire Taylor 13/Aug/08 2nd O/S
tom 04/Aug/08 Lead
with Dan Leach
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Rob Davies 13/Jul/08 2nd

Backed off lead

with Phil Ashton
cem 15/Jun/08 Lead dog

1 rest

mattyork2 07/Jun/08 2nd
petellis 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Joe
ksjs 24/May/08 Lead O/S

good fun

Hidden 24/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/08 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 18/May/08 Lead O/S
hawkins321 22/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with rosie atkinson
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
mattwyles1 ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Mark Walter 26/Jun/07 2nd
with Jon Bleiker
wilchivs 26/Jun/07 2nd
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 26/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Cardi 26/Jun/07 2nd
with Ben D
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
doug s 29/Apr/07 2nd
with mike
dan gibson 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
AJ007 26/Apr/07 2nd
with Dan
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Mark_RMC 31/Mar/07 Lead

An E1 up a thin crack in the wall. Andy started the lead, but backed off at the bulge. After some quite exciting air miles, I managed to finish the climb.

with Andy Redhead
Hidden 14/Jan/07 Lead
Hidden 20/Dec/06 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Dec/06 Lead
Hidden 26/Nov/06 2nd dnf
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead dnf
Different Steve 23/Jul/06 Lead dog

What a battle! - and I've still got to go back and do it clean...

with Pete Krug
Alex Mason 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S

good route soft at E1 but quite sustained good little practice.

with mick radford
Hidden 26/Mar/06 Lead dog
Hopevalleypaul 10/Jul/05 2nd

with Henry F
duncan 03/Jun/05 Lead rpt
with Hugo Glover
Mark Riley ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
ukb & bmc shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
DorsetGareth 01/Jun/03 Lead O/S
shoulders 16/Mar/03 Lead
with nathan
Mark Stevenson 23/May/02 Lead O/S
Mick r 12/May/02 2nd
Hidden 23/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Andy S ?/Aug/01 Lead dog
martroberts 01/Jun/01 Lead O/S

amnesia onsight - seconded 4 years previously

skygodley 19/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/01 Lead
Carl Smethurst 08/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 11/Mar/00 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Dave
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Phill Mitch ??/1999 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
Roget 12/Oct/97 Lead rpt
with Derek Beetlestone, jon
adam carless ??/1997 2nd O/S
with uni club
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Martin Bennett 02/Jun/96 -
with Jerry Evans, SF
BruceW ??/1996 Lead dog
John Southworth ??/1995 -
Chris Ellis 31/Jul/94 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
Neil R 15/Jun/94 2nd
with Richard W
Hidden 28/Jul/93 Lead
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/93 TR

Think we'd both failed to lead it

with Bill G
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
AlanLittle ??/1993 2nd
with Robert Clark
John Marsland 05/Sep/92 2nd
with Dave Soles
jamiev ?/Jun/92 2nd β
with Karl
Hidden 31/May/92 2nd O/S
craig d ??/1992 -
Hidden 14/Jul/91 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/91 2nd dog
leathers 18/May/91 Lead O/S
with Ron Caves
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Apr/90 Lead
with D Townsend
Hidden ?/Apr/90 Lead
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
John Marsland 02/Aug/89 2nd
with Neil Bulloch
babymoac 16/Jul/89 2nd
with Alan S
NickJH ?/May/89 Lead O/S
with D Townsend
Hidden 26/Apr/89 Lead
Rock to Fakey 02/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 25/Apr/87 2nd
steve taylor ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/86 2nd O/S
Billg 21/May/86 Lead O/S
with Nigel Slater
Chris Ellis 19/Apr/86 2nd
with John Kirk
Mike Owen 18/Sep/85 -
with Simon King
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/Aug/85 Lead
with Si Gee
GordonHart ??/1985 2nd O/S
with Kevin
Hidden ??/1985 TR
ukb & bmc shark 21/Jun/84 Lead dog
with Tim & Andy
Andy Fielding ??/1984 2nd
with Steve Hartland
Tom V ??/1984 -
Hidden 20/Jun/82 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
mark-abz 18/Sep/81 Lead
with Richard O
Nic Robinson 04/Jul/81 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/81 Lead
Hammy 17/Apr/81 Lead
with Jonathon Stacey
Hammy 02/Nov/80 Lead
with Rob Lawson
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Mark Kemball 04/Oct/78 Solo
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1975 -
mikej 23/Jan/66 Lead dog

A1 aid version

with Keith Fairburn
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 80
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 61
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set