From the 2005 Burbage, Millstone and Beyond guide.
“The steep quarried walls of Millstone and Lawrencefield are home to a very particular style of climbing- peg-scar cranking. These are the holes eked out of hairline cracks by the aid climbers of the 1950s that these days are more welcoming to fingers and toes. The climbing on these routes tends to be pumpy and powerful due to a usual lack of footholds, and on steeper walls turns quite savage. However, there are few things more thrilling than scorching up an otherwise blank wall of grit, cranking out long reaches, fussing in good protection, with that ever-threatening pump approaching. Below is a series of tests of this style, to see if you are a peg-pocketeer.”
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London Wall
© Will Rupp
London Wall
American Josh on London Wall
© Niall Grimes
London Wall
Autumnal millstone
© jethro kiernan
London Wall
© Mr Lopez
London Wall
Emma Twyford enjoying herself on London Wall E5 6a, Millstone 4
© li'l Kath
London Wall
Emma Twyford, London Wall E5 6a, Millstone 1
© li'l Kath
London Wall
"Don't Stop Now!" Dave Turnbull reaches the final crux on London Wall
© PontiusPirate
London Wall
© Will Rupp
London Wall
London Calling
© edward thatcher
London Wall
Joe Watson on London Wall
© harry_lewis
Coventry Street
Walking down Coventry Street, Millstone
© Stu Littlefair 2001
Knightsbridge
Making the crux moves on Knightsbridge E25c
© Sean Kelly
Add | Climb name | Grade | Ticks? | Height | Crag name | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Once Pegged Wall | VS 5a * | 1323 | 10m | Lawrencefield | ||||
Once Pegged Wall Direct Finish | HVS 5b | 175 | ? | Lawrencefield | ||||
Delectable Direct | E1 5c ** | 874 | 15m | Lawrencefield | ||||
Supra Direct | HVS 5b * | 816 | 20m | Millstone Edge | ||||
Two Shot Holes | f5+ * | 45 | ? | Millstone Edge | ||||
Embankment 3 | E1 5b *** | 2892 | 26m | • 2 | Millstone Edge | |||
Knightsbridge | E2 5c *** | 809 | 34m | Millstone Edge | ||||
Dextrous Hare | E3 5c ** | 315 | 16m | Millstone Edge | ||||
Boulevard | E3 6a ** | 467 | 18m | Lawrencefield | ||||
Coventry Street | E5 6b ** | 209 | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||||
London Wall | E5 6a *** | 307 | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||||
20 e, 20 stars | 8,232 | 183m | 12 |