20m.

Rockfax Description
At low water, the direct start to Suspense is technical and bold. Small wires and cams protect sparingly - remember to leave room in the slots for your fingers. Above the crux, a bold sprint leads to the crux of the regular route. © Rockfax

FAA. Alan Clarke 1958. FFA. Roger Greatrick early 1980s.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Classic Lobs, On Peak Rock

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Graham Hoey 8 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I think E5 6a is a better grade. Most of the climbing is on very good large holds. One short balancy section above iffy cam/wires leads to good holds again. Couldn't find a 6b move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think E5 6a is a better grade. Most of the climbing is on very good large holds. One short balancy section above iffy cam/wires leads to good holds again. Couldn't find a 6b move.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dr Toph 12 Sep Lead RP After following Will. Also took the two-move solution at the crux which I think adds up to the same as the original.
with salix
After following Will. Also took the two-move solution at the crux which I think adds up to the same as the original.
with salix
salix 12 Sep Lead O/S Spent a longtime figuring this out. Went right from the horizontal gear slots, and up to a good crescent feature. Then high heel to reach the first flat holds at the start of the runout. Would like to try the more direct rockover move from the gear.
with Dr Toph
Spent a longtime figuring this out. Went right from the horizontal gear slots, and up to a good crescent feature. Then high heel to reach the first flat holds at the start of the runout. Would like to try the more direct rockover move from the gear.
with Dr Toph
AlexMorris 27 Mar Lead β Matched the thumb sprags on the crux, felt like Alex Honnold :P Such a good route, first E5, well psyched!
Matched the thumb sprags on the crux, felt like Alex Honnold :P Such a good route, first E5, well psyched!
Alex hall 27 Mar Lead β Absailed to check gear then went for it. First E5!
Absailed to check gear then went for it. First E5!
F.Wish 12 Dec, 2018 TR RP On shunt
On shunt
Hidden 25 Sep, 2018 -
PeteWilson 6 Apr, 2018 TR Awesome route, been wanting to try it for a while. Water level too high to do the bottom bit, did crux first go :) one to come back ajd do!
with John P
Awesome route, been wanting to try it for a while. Water level too high to do the bottom bit, did crux first go :) one to come back ajd do!
with John P
BRoe 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S Absolutely awesome... been wanting to get on this for so long! Weather didn't have a clue what it was doing, expert belaying from hef.
Absolutely awesome... been wanting to get on this for so long! Weather didn't have a clue what it was doing, expert belaying from hef.
Andy Peak 1 19 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Super fun:-) and reasonably safe after the bold easy bit. Always wanted to do this first e5 I ever tried to top rope in 2010, stunning!
Super fun:-) and reasonably safe after the bold easy bit. Always wanted to do this first e5 I ever tried to top rope in 2010, stunning!
Brannock 29 Sep, 2016 2nd
Proddler 19 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Crux felt pretty tech, and it was a little warm. Glad to have lead such a fantastic line.
Crux felt pretty tech, and it was a little warm. Glad to have lead such a fantastic line.
Louishmouis ?Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
James Oakes 22 Mar, 2016 Lead β
nathanlee 18 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S Went left after the "crux" via desp moves and avoided the bold sprint mentioned in the guide. Hard and bloody brill.
Went left after the "crux" via desp moves and avoided the bold sprint mentioned in the guide. Hard and bloody brill.
WillDoyle 30 Jul, 2014 Lead dog Worked on a TR years ago, lead with 1 fall off the first crux.
Worked on a TR years ago, lead with 1 fall off the first crux.
Gambit 28 Sep, 2013 TR dog Interesting, maybe for the headpoint??
with Tom
Interesting, maybe for the headpoint??
with Tom
Apharri 24 Jun, 2013 Lead Ground or rather 'pool' up. Very reachy, couldn't reach between the crux holds so ended up getting a thumb sprag with my right and crossing over with my left to the hold. 6b for sure. The move after is reachy too. 1 fall
with Dave Wharton
Ground or rather 'pool' up. Very reachy, couldn't reach between the crux holds so ended up getting a thumb sprag with my right and crossing over with my left to the hold. 6b for sure. The move after is reachy too. 1 fall
with Dave Wharton
ChrisBrooke 28 Apr, 2013 2nd
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
Hidden 17 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2013 2nd β
Keendan 2 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S First legitimate E5 onsight! Gear was better than expected (two cams in the slot before the crux) crux was sketchy, with a small pop/deadpoint for the right handhold. Must be much harder for the short. The "bold sprint" was not too hard after the crux, and thoroughly enjoyable.
First legitimate E5 onsight! Gear was better than expected (two cams in the slot before the crux) crux was sketchy, with a small pop/deadpoint for the right handhold. Must be much harder for the short. The "bold sprint" was not too hard after the crux, and thoroughly enjoyable.
Dan Arkle ??, 2013 -
soph 16 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
stephenhartley ?Sep, 2012 2nd β
Hidden 29 Mar, 2012 TR
hamer89 15 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 2 Mar, 2012 Lead
with Mike
with Mike
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Bob ??, 2012 -
rockaddiction 5 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
sishaw 2 Jun, 2011 TR Topped with one rest. Gear did not inspire me to ever even dream of trying this one.
with bone
Topped with one rest. Gear did not inspire me to ever even dream of trying this one.
with bone
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jun, 2010 Lead β
with Tom Bridgeland
with Tom Bridgeland
Hidden 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 12 Sep, 2009 2nd
dan gibson 12 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2009 2nd
chris m fisher 22 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dan M
with Dan M
lukehunt 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with francocookson
with francocookson
Tom Briggs 23 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ed and Cavey
with Ed and Cavey
Ben Wolstenholme 25 Aug, 2008 2nd
with JR
with JR
Hidden 25 Aug, 2008 Lead β
alaan 30 Jun, 2008 Lead dnf Forgotten how to climb slabs - really fun, mind!
with bex
Forgotten how to climb slabs - really fun, mind!
with bex
Hidden ??, 2007 -
chrishedgehog 17 Mar, 2005 2nd
Gus 4 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
with Rob Clifton
Roget ?Jun, 2002 Lead rpt
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
steveb2006 8 Jan, 2000 TR dog After Gareth leads Suspense. Tight rope required
with Gareth Williams
After Gareth leads Suspense. Tight rope required
with Gareth Williams
tuftynick ??, 2000 2nd
with Aide Jebb
with Aide Jebb
tlr ??, 2000 2nd
with Adrian
with Adrian
PaulHermes ??, 1997 -
Roget 8 Oct, 1995 Lead dog fell off once
with jon
fell off once
with jon
mattnuttall 18 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with Adrian Berry, Alan Holden
with Adrian Berry, Alan Holden
Okecroak 15 Apr, 1994 2nd
with I Butler, M Mercy
with I Butler, M Mercy
AlanLittle ?Apr, 1994 TR
Hidden ??, 1994 2nd
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead RP
samt 18 Jun, 1992 TR
samt 25 Apr, 1992 TR got it clean!
with Rob Weston
got it clean!
with Rob Weston
Hidden ??, 1992 -
mik1miller ??, 1992 Lead O/S
with elliot blaylock
with elliot blaylock
David Slater 13 Oct, 1991 Lead O/S
with Justin Vogler
with Justin Vogler
Sean Kelly ?May, 1990 -
with Duncan Lee
with Duncan Lee
ajtay ??, 1990 -
Billg 23 Sep, 1989 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 11 Mar, 1989 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 4 Mar, 1989 Lead
with Tudor Griffiths
with Tudor Griffiths
Fakey Rocks ??, 1989 TR
Seb Grieve 9 Sep, 1986 Lead O/S Yep, felt like E5 even though it was given E4 at the time. Very technical with poorish gear.
Yep, felt like E5 even though it was given E4 at the time. Very technical with poorish gear.
Andy Nicholson ?Sep, 1985 Lead O/S There was a lot of water in the pool..and I can swim.
with Graham Parkes
There was a lot of water in the pool..and I can swim.
with Graham Parkes
GordonHart ??, 1985 TR dog
Mark Kemball 27 Feb, 1982 2nd
with Bill McKee
with Bill McKee
38 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 27
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set