Rockfax Description
The superb finger- and hand-crack that splits the centre of the wall is an essential Peak tick! The knuckle-cracking start is well protected and leads to easier but excellent climbing above. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Brown 1971.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Top 50 Peak Cracks , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics , Proper Cracks UK , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 14 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Top out and cracks fully dug out July 23, hopefully this will stop the route getting as much soil washed down it and make it dry quicker as there is less seepage. Unfortunately the base of the route is still very muddy so until the grass regrows (I might have to plant some) a rope tarp is advisable. It is easy to walk off to the right (facing in) following the path closest to the edge to reach the quarry base by the Eastern Moors compound (with the skips) rather than abseiling off the trees which will damage them and will dislodge soil down the route when you pull your ropes spoiling it for others. For best conditions allow for a day or 2 of dry weather and bit of wind to dry the insides of the cracks out fully. Bring a brush and brush off any build up of dirt being washed down and tree matter and it will stay good. ENJOY | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Top out and cracks fully dug out July 23, hopefully this will stop the route getting as much soil washed down it and make it dry quicker as there is less seepage. Unfortunately the base of the route is still very muddy so until the grass regrows (I might have to plant some) a rope tarp is advisable. It is easy to walk off to the right (facing in) following the path closest to the edge to reach the quarry base by the Eastern Moors compound (with the skips) rather than abseiling off the trees which will damage them and will dislodge soil down the route when you pull your ropes spoiling it for others. For best conditions allow for a day or 2 of dry weather and bit of wind to dry the insides of the cracks out fully. Bring a brush and brush off any build up of dirt being washed down and tree matter and it will stay good. ENJOY |
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| Fraser kid | 29 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Face was wet and dirty, but brilliant climb never the less. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Face was wet and dirty, but brilliant climb never the less. |
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| Monk | 11 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really dirty when I did it but still very good. Also the top holds look a little fragile. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really dirty when I did it but still very good. Also the top holds look a little fragile. |
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| The Pylon King | 11 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: Great 5b start then sustained 5a with good gear and rests and not really pumpy.must be one of the best crack routes in the peak? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great 5b start then sustained 5a with good gear and rests and not really pumpy.must be one of the best crack routes in the peak? |
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| TobyA | 20 Nov, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is the left hand variation as well that goes at 5a as opposed to 5b. I wonder how many others like me have fluffed the original start, though "hmm - I'll just pop up the easier start..." then had the battle of their lives as they hadn't stopped to rest enough after pumping out on the 5b start! Very well protected and fantastic climbing. The top few moves are typical quarry (easy but dirty and loose) so put some good gear in as it would be easy to slip off there. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There is the left hand variation as well that goes at 5a as opposed to 5b. I wonder how many others like me have fluffed the original start, though "hmm - I'll just pop up the easier start..." then had the battle of their lives as they hadn't stopped to rest enough after pumping out on the 5b start! Very well protected and fantastic climbing. The top few moves are typical quarry (easy but dirty and loose) so put some good gear in as it would be easy to slip off there. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Yarncliffe
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Eye of faith (left hand start)
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)