Climbs 163
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 248m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Archie on Latecomer © daddy day care

Crag features

A small sheltered quarry that has been popular for years because of its accessibility. If you arrive and there are more than a couple of outdoor centre/school minibuses parked in the gateway it is probably worth looking elsewhere for your sport, though it has to be said Zapple is often free. The quarry and nearby edge (not described here but worth a look if you are interested in unexplored jungle) are named after the millstones that used to be quarried here; an old name for them was querns and the corruption 'yarn'-cliffe (and also 'Wharn'-cliffe) indicates a location of this ancient industry.

The quarry is very sheltered, partly because of its recessed position and partly because of the tree cover. It makes a good venue on cold windy days but can be unpleasantly midday when the weather is humid. In high summer the large number of biting ants can be a bit off-putting. It is also almost always extremely sandy, especially after rain.

Approach notes

Note: Double yellow lines have been painted on both sides of the road in the areas people normally park for the crag. This is in response to excessive unreasonable parking to access Padley - but obvusly hasn't been thought out very carefully. Technically, I believe this means that there is no legal parking adjacent to the crag - and you can be ticketed if you cross the double yellow lines to park in the normal parking areas!

On the southern (uphill) side of the road that runs between the Fox House and Grindleford is a large gated entrance, with parking for up to half a dozen carefully placed vehicles. Note: avoid turning in the vicinity of the gate, the road is travelled by fast traffic. The nearest rock is only seconds away, just head through the gap right of the gate. The other good sector is up the track, on the right past the Council Tip. It is much safer to go down the hill and turn into the road that runs down to Grindleford station, only two minutes away.

No Access Issues

Climbers are asked to not walk on the fabric geo matting which the BMC has installed to address the crag-top soil erosion - see on-site signage.

Wardens are actively ticketing people who park in the layby outside the quarry. Look for the double yellows. Best parking is up the hill where the icecream van often is.
PaulJepson - 16/Jun/22
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