14m.

Rockfax Description
The archetypal grit arete and one of grit's greatest hard routes. The climbing is technical and ultra committing with good runners at one-third height and the crux at the top. Don't fall off the last move unless you have briefed your second man to leap from the ledge in an attempt to shorten the fall - even then it is pretty much touch and go! © Rockfax

FA. Johnny Dawes 1986

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Hard Grit, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come, Consumed, 50 of the Best, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Pathway to Triple 8, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Aly 6 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: No, only 12 comments on the grade from rockfaxers - hold your mouse over the bar. Ally's right though, it's had a lot more than that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No, only 12 comments on the grade from rockfaxers - hold your mouse over the bar. Ally's right though, it's had a lot more than that.
Ally Smith 4 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: EOTA has easily had 25 ascents. I know of at least a dozen without being part of the Sheffield "mafia"
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: EOTA has easily had 25 ascents. I know of at least a dozen without being part of the Sheffield "mafia"
Jon Stewart 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 25 votes eh? popular route this one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 25 votes eh? popular route this one.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gus 16 Dec, 2018 TR
with TSG, Vicky hurley
with TSG, Vicky hurley
Dan Arkle 9 Dec, 2018 TR
northy1983 3 Nov, 2018 Lead A major tick for me and what perfect conditions to do it in, apart from the hurricane force winds. The pad at the bottom kept blowing away, so i scrapped it. Dom also sent it an hour later. Scarier belaying than leading!!! A good day for the Bridgwood boys. (vid on fingerbuzz youtube channel)
with dom
A major tick for me and what perfect conditions to do it in, apart from the hurricane force winds. The pad at the bottom kept blowing away, so i scrapped it. Dom also sent it an hour later. Scarier belaying than leading!!! A good day for the Bridgwood boys. (vid on fingerbuzz youtube channel)
with dom
F.Wish 29 Oct, 2018 TR RP On shunt, got the whole thing clean, but with a sketchy dyno at the top, figured out the beta to do it static though, will be back with some psych to get the lead some day.
On shunt, got the whole thing clean, but with a sketchy dyno at the top, figured out the beta to do it static though, will be back with some psych to get the lead some day.
oliver.ghill91 24 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
Patrick Hill 9 Mar, 2018 Lead RP
with Haydn Jones
with Haydn Jones
ben.meakin 7 Jan, 2018 Lead RP Worked it out on Saturday. Sent it the next day.
Worked it out on Saturday. Sent it the next day.
James Smith 25 Nov, 2017 TR RP Squeezed in amongst snow/sleet showers! Climbed clean from the start of the hard climbing but not too psyched to lead in the snow! Hopefully get back soon in the dry!
with jake
Squeezed in amongst snow/sleet showers! Climbed clean from the start of the hard climbing but not too psyched to lead in the snow! Hopefully get back soon in the dry!
with jake
Hidden 17 Oct, 2017 Lead RP
mrteale 17 Oct, 2017 TR RP Technically done clean but with a throw at the top which needs refinement. Stirling lead by Remus on a very windy day, an exciting belay.
with remus
Technically done clean but with a throw at the top which needs refinement. Stirling lead by Remus on a very windy day, an exciting belay.
with remus
JHM 15 Oct, 2017 Lead
Hidden 10 Oct, 2017 TR RP
Ky 8 Oct, 2017 TR dnf
with Pete Bridgewood
with Pete Bridgewood
Ben Bouissou 5 Oct, 2017 Lead
JamesTurnbull97 29 Jan, 2017 TR RP The seed is planted!!
with Flo
The seed is planted!!
with Flo
NDD 18 Jan, 2015 Lead RP
with sam harvie
with sam harvie
Hidden 5 Nov, 2014 Lead RP
archiecb 3 Nov, 2014 Lead RP Bish Bash Bosh, getting out in the good weather, getting the first of the triple 8's in the bag. Really not that hard, just gotta feel solid...
Bish Bash Bosh, getting out in the good weather, getting the first of the triple 8's in the bag. Really not that hard, just gotta feel solid...
Kyle Rance 3 Nov, 2014 Lead RP My first E8. Super happy to start my season of with this. Never thought I would have done it when I was watching hard grit 7ish years ago. 😃
My first E8. Super happy to start my season of with this. Never thought I would have done it when I was watching hard grit 7ish years ago. 😃
C coldwell-storry 15 Mar, 2014 Lead RP
with rob lay
with rob lay
mark20 19 Jan, 2014 Lead RP
Wil Treasure 11 Jan, 2014 TR Did all the moves... oh dear. Think this would be possible, but would need to have it totally wired and be a little bit fitter I think.
Did all the moves... oh dear. Think this would be possible, but would need to have it totally wired and be a little bit fitter I think.
kyaizawa 11 Jan, 2014 TR dog
with Sophie Cheng
with Sophie Cheng
MorganPreece 2 Dec, 2013 TR β
Ethan 23 Nov, 2013 Lead
with Dave, Don Walker
with Dave, Don Walker
jake_haddock 4 Nov, 2013 Lead RP In the dying light.. Fluffed beta in the middle but held it together for the top crux. Psyched to have climbed this one! A good day out all round..
In the dying light.. Fluffed beta in the middle but held it together for the top crux. Psyched to have climbed this one! A good day out all round..
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Nov, 2013 Lead rpt A route I never thought I'd do...
A route I never thought I'd do...
Hidden 21 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
Keendan 21 Mar, 2012 TR dog With a shunt. 1st crux took 3 goes. Last crux took 5 goes. Middle crux took about 20 goes. So thin, and I didn't even link hard moves (like the last one). Now have some idea of the skill of top flashers, as this isn't particularly physical.
With a shunt. 1st crux took 3 goes. Last crux took 5 goes. Middle crux took about 20 goes. So thin, and I didn't even link hard moves (like the last one). Now have some idea of the skill of top flashers, as this isn't particularly physical.
MicheleC ?Feb, 2012 Lead RP
nathanlee 14 Jan, 2012 Lead RP Big moment in my climbing. Absolutely ecstatic! http://vimeo.com/35130676
Big moment in my climbing. Absolutely ecstatic! http://vimeo.com/35130676
Hidden 18 Nov, 2011 Lead β
Gazleah ?Jun, 2011 TR dnf Couple of middle moves i couldn't quite complete but think a few more tries and it should go
with henry jenkins
Couple of middle moves i couldn't quite complete but think a few more tries and it should go
with henry jenkins
hamer89 20 Oct, 2010 Lead RP Amazing team effort. Three ascents in an hour. Finn, me and Eduardo
Amazing team effort. Three ascents in an hour. Finn, me and Eduardo
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
bigie bob 15 Nov, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 22 Feb, 2009 TR dnf
mattcyp88 22 Feb, 2009 TR dog Linked in two sections (up to last move)
Linked in two sections (up to last move)
pipof747 20 Nov, 2008 Lead RP
JSA 28 Oct, 2008 TR rpt Brilliant route, amazingly didn't seem too hard, maybe it's just my style of climbing. need to get fit for the lead now!
with Ben Tetler
Brilliant route, amazingly didn't seem too hard, maybe it's just my style of climbing. need to get fit for the lead now!
with Ben Tetler
andi taxi 27 Aug, 2008 Solo NOT !!!!
with charly fell, laughterton
NOT !!!!
with charly fell, laughterton
Hidden 18 Dec, 2007 Lead
Hidden 26 Sep, 2007 Lead RP
phil stubbs 4 Jul, 2007 TR dnf bloody hard hats off the the hard gritstone climber
with kelly evans
bloody hard hats off the the hard gritstone climber
with kelly evans
Hidden 3 Feb, 2007 Lead RP
Ben Wolstenholme 3 Feb, 2007 2nd
with JR
with JR
Hidden ?Jan, 2006 -
simes303 ??, 2006 Lead RP Fantastic, and not too hard.
Fantastic, and not too hard.
Hidden 10 Oct, 2005 TR dog
Hidden ??, 2000 TR dnf
Hidden 1 Jan, 1998 TR
Seb Grieve 19 Nov, 1995 Lead RP Fabulously, insecure grit. Impossible to even TR on a warm day, much easier and stickier when cold and minty. Both feet cut loose on the crux so just put 'em back on again and carried on. Glad my belayer did not jump off the block and pull me off. Probably only 7a+ to top rope.
with Dave Jones
Fabulously, insecure grit. Impossible to even TR on a warm day, much easier and stickier when cold and minty. Both feet cut loose on the crux so just put 'em back on again and carried on. Glad my belayer did not jump off the block and pull me off. Probably only 7a+ to top rope.
with Dave Jones
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??, 1995 TR My way had a lil pop for a slopper with right at top, I cudnt justify going for it. Out of interest is that the norm, or is there better sequence?kudos if u went for it, it's a world away from top rope
My way had a lil pop for a slopper with right at top, I cudnt justify going for it. Out of interest is that the norm, or is there better sequence?kudos if u went for it, it's a world away from top rope
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Voting
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
Votes cast 37
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set