Rockfax Description
The cracks in the north-facing side-wall lead to a sloping shelf. Before you pump out, stretch awkwardly right and reach for the top, or go direct - rounded either way. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1972

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, The Froggatt to Black Rocks into E2 smile list, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

ClimbCJH 25/Oct/17 2nd dog
Gambit 12/Oct/17 2nd rpt

Bottom felt nails and top felt easy, last week it was the other way round!

with Mark Leicester, Tom
rtdennison 20/Aug/17 Lead

Should have just gone for the last move but got spooked on the slopers and so went back down to my gear for a break and fell off when going for it again because I was so pumped, the last move to top out is very committing but thankfully my hands stuck! Awesome but pumpy climbing

with Holly, Shaun
Holly Mckenzie-Barnes 20/Aug/17 2nd
amccann 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Tilly
jodikate 13/Aug/17 2nd
with Alex, Tilly
Hidden 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Jake Young 12/Aug/17 2nd O/S
MSchobitz 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S


mrteale 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Felt much softer than Apollo. Hard 5b?

strudles 27/Jun/17 Lead dog

got in a bit of a muddle with the wrong sized cams at the traverse and ended up taking a long rest...

with Mike
will9911 21/May/17 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 07/May/17 Lead rpt
with Dave Taylor
robgixer 02/Apr/17 Lead dog
Rory_Cummings_NI 24/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Andy Moles, Dave
Hidden 24/Mar/17 2nd
Bettymolly ??/2017 Lead O/S
James Oswald 20/Oct/16 2nd rpt

Good little micro route.

with Andy Moles
Andy Moles 20/Oct/16 Lead O/S

E2 is fair. Better than Apollo.

with James Oswald
Mike_Hayes 08/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Duncan Barrack
Hidden 02/Oct/16 2nd
ralphio 03/Jun/16 2nd

I think E2 would be fair on lead.

with John work
morganator 22/May/16 2nd rpt
soph 22/May/16 Lead O/S
James Oswald 26/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Technical and fun

Dave Turnbull, BMC 20/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Mike Hutton
Ramon Marin 23/Feb/16 Lead dog
deacondeacon 22/Nov/15 Lead G/U

Too cold first time round. Came back to the floor and led clean ground up. Good climb, if a little short.

Hidden 01/Nov/15 2nd
bigdrew 10/Oct/15 Lead rpt

Fell of a few years ago.. Felt ok this time.

Dan Mckinlay ?/Sep/15 Lead
will9911 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Neil
will9911 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Neil
Longsufferingropeholder 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Martin Brierley 04/May/15 2nd
phil64 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt


with mike cox
rurp 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Short but tough, nice stretch but don't linger...

with Mark
ashtond6 21/Mar/15 Lead

Awesome route! Well protected and sustained

Stroppy 08/Feb/15 2nd dog

Good lead Rog

RKirke 08/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Clama ??/2015 2nd
with Charlie
Hidden ?/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead rpt
DavidPC 28/Oct/14 Lead G/U

On Johnnys gear, fell off crux, lowered and managed it 2nd go.

with Johnny D
Hidden 20/Oct/14 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 12/Oct/14 2nd
simon kimber 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/14 Lead
stuart34 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Sean Kenny
Hidden 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S
dom94 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 05/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 27/May/14 Lead G/U
with Roisin
Matt Cooke 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt
ASchwirtz 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
dominic lee 09/Mar/14 Solo
fabricio 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with lee
nimajneb ?/Feb/14 Lead
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
w.pettet-smith ??/2014 -
pie_eater_pete 25/Nov/13 Lead O/S
bwestwood 25/Nov/13 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Haydn Jones 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with duncan
Hardcore Pat 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
climberchristy 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

easy end of e2 and of 5c but good route

with bencole
dionisys ??/2013 2nd
with pat dawson, vanderz
Bex_M 09/Sep/12 TR dog
with Duncan Dunbar
tgeh 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Only E1 by Curbar standards. But still not that straight forward.

Dave Foster 15/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Si 2
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/12 2nd β
robertmichaellovell 04/Jun/12 Lead

2nd go

with Andy H
a_hein 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Si dH 06/Apr/12 Lead rpt

Dogged this almost 6 years ago but couldnt remember any of it. Had to fight quite a bit - snow all over the ground didn't help as I got pumped drying my rockboots! Although it has been downgraded to E1 in the latest BMC guide, I think it is worth E2 - it's short but pretty sharp.

with Mark Derby
Graeme Hammond 17/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Good route. Blew the traverse just after doing Apollo last year still pumped. Still tricky but then realised I was hanging on to the flake with it almost in the bag much to my surprise :)

with Jim
Pete Graham 01/Mar/12 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Speeddemonsi 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
catblack 03/Sep/11 2nd

intense for such a short route

with Si
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead dnf
DaveFidler 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
TonyF 17/Aug/11 2nd
with David
Hidden 15/Aug/11 2nd
Bry 15/Aug/11 2nd β
with Trys, Chris Moran
al123 07/Aug/11 Lead

got to the traverse right then lowered off as i didnt have the right size gear for the breaks. really annoying as i could have done it in one. nice route though.

with alex
Hidden 20/Jun/11 Lead β
Katya 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Mr. K 10/May/11 2nd dog

Needed a rest on the rope to get all the gear out of the top break.

Jonathan Hall 26/Mar/11 Lead

Buggered up the gear but the topoot wasn't as bad as the guidebook suggests.

Hidden 14/Mar/11 2nd dog
James Oakes 28/Jan/11 Lead O/S
RM199 ??/2011 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mark20 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
bigdrew 30/Oct/10 Lead dog
with Mark R
Hidden 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Dave Foster 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Pumped silly and slumped on cams. Pulled rope and managed it clean second go. Not very enjoyable climbing and tough at new grade of E1 5c.

with Andy
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
JPGR 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
highlux ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fun route, good gear.

tebs 30/May/10 Lead O/S

A bit short and scrittly. Awkward moves to gain the big sidepulls and glory.

with Mike
Owen W-G 23/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Faffed up and down 4 times before committing to the jug (easy in the end) but didn't like the feel of the slopers above and bailed. Good value pump-per-meter, one to come back to when fitter.

with Simon Denison
Fergus Cuthill 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Harry Holmes 15/Apr/10 2nd
with Fergus Cuthill
Hidden 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Not the greatest conditions but after much faffing on last move, managed to get it sussed in time. Never got too pumped, felt in control.

Cake 17/Oct/09 Lead dnf
with Matt
Hidden 05/Oct/09 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 19/Sep/09 2nd

Led in 1988/9

with Richard Bissel
Ketu 16/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Nigel
GrantB 12/Sep/09 2nd
mattyork2 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Brown 23/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with John
chris sm 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Maybe low in the grade as there are no hard moves... but goodness it's pumpy. Struggled a bit to be honest.

with Pippa Froggatt
HimTiggins 23/May/09 2nd O/S
with John
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
AJ007 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
dan gibson 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with tio
Hidden 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Misha 16/Aug/08 Lead dog

Rested on the cams

ASchwirtz 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Fraser13 ?/Jun/08 -
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd dog
DavidR 10/May/08 Lead dnf

Got to just below the sloping horizontal break, and bottled the move up to it (after multiple tries). Horribly hot and sweaty day. Ended up topping it to retrieve gear. Was glad to have not gone for the move on lead!

DavidR 10/May/08 TR O/S
Martin Haworth 05/May/08 Lead dog
with Andy, Richard
Andrew Sloan 05/May/08 2nd dnf
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Ethan ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Don Walker, Matt Fry
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
joe larner 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Nice route, soft for the grade. Must get fitter! Still pumped from L'Horla.

cem 07/Oct/07 Lead β
with David T, Rob Truckle
Hidden 05/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/07 Lead
Coel Hellier 01/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead
adam carless 04/Feb/07 2nd O/S

fairly soft for E2, but the top moves are pretty reachy.

ukb & bmc shark 03/Feb/07 2nd
with Simon Shaw
Alex Mason 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S

soft E2 pumpy in the top break and a big reach for the top

with dan holdsworth
Stig 27/Aug/06 Lead dog

Madly pumpy. 1 rest.

with Karl Walton
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Si dH 28/May/06 Lead dog

Got pumped silly placing gear at the top of the crack and ended up needing two rests. Not too abd if you've got good stamina I don't think, but the whole route is slightly overhanging, which I didn't realise till I was on it!

with Tom Lambert
Hidden ?/May/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
runestone 20/Nov/05 2nd
with Mike B
frost ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with D Garry
John Pickles 08/Aug/05 2nd
with Zac Poulton/Kieran Hodgson
johnboyrevel ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Eddie
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Martin Cooper ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 18/May/03 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
Gus 23/Mar/03 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Phil Bent
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2003 Lead O/S

did the long stretch off undercuts direct finish 'cos that's how it was described in my guide.

with Dan Holdsworth
tuftynick ??/2003 -
Mark Stevenson 06/Oct/02 2nd O/S
with Chris Howard
Strong Steve 13/May/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 21/Aug/99 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/99 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/99 2nd
Hidden 09/May/99 Lead
Jon Read ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Dave Edmunds
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/98 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 14/Feb/98 Lead
PaulTanton ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ?/Mar/97 Lead β
craig d ??/1997 -
r0b 13/Oct/96 2nd
with Ian Huyton
Roget 09/Jul/96 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/96 2nd
nokishatov 16/May/96 2nd O/S
SR1970 ?/May/96 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1996 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 18/Jul/95 2nd
Hidden 06/Jul/95 Lead
John Southworth 20/May/95 Lead O/S
ste_d 17/May/95 Lead O/S
with mik
Billg ?/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with Simon Cox
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Chris Reid 09/Oct/93 Lead O/S
with Carl Hammal
Hidden 03/Oct/93 Lead rpt
Rich Kirby 03/Oct/93 2nd
roncaves 01/Jul/93 2nd
with Gavin Williams
Hidden 16/Aug/92 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Rob Davies 11/Aug/91 TR

Finished direct - easiest option on a shunt

Hidden 30/Jul/91 Lead O/S
tapley 08/Apr/90 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
phardman 11/Mar/89 2nd
with Roger Gibbs
Hidden 05/Nov/88 Lead
Stoney Boy 15/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/88 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 21/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Keith Milne, Ian Milne
Hidden 15/Aug/87 Lead
Bruce Kerr 16/Apr/87 Lead
with Neville Elstone
Hidden ??/1987 2nd
tmawer ??/1987 2nd
with Dave knottidge
Neil McA 25/Apr/86 Lead O/S
with Pete Gronbech
stp 02/Oct/83 Lead O/S
Andy Nicholson ?/Jun/83 Lead O/S
with Spike
Mark Kemball 13/Feb/82 Lead
with Dave Abbey
nbotting ??/1982 -
Hidden 07/May/81 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
andy gittins ??/1972 -
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead dog
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 43
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set