23m.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant face climbing, despite the drilled holds. Make a very hard move to leave the block and gain the dodgy flakes. Then sustained crimpy wall climbing gains better holds and a sprint for the top before you pump-out. Finish right or escape left. © Rockfax

FFA. Mick Fowler 1976. Climbed by Ed Drummond in 1973 with two skyhooks for aid. The tiny holes he drilled are still there.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Consumed, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, 50 of the Best, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions

Feedback

UserDateNotes
CharlieMack 13 Apr Show βeta
βeta: The jug block at the top of the groove has a crack round the back of it and flexes quite a bit, so take care on it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The jug block at the top of the groove has a crack round the back of it and flexes quite a bit, so take care on it.
frank ramsay 13 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lassoing the spike or tring to flick in a nut from below is bloody hard and the placement seems pretty marginal. The top wall at least has positive holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lassoing the spike or tring to flick in a nut from below is bloody hard and the placement seems pretty marginal. The top wall at least has positive holds.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
CharlieMack 12 Apr 2nd dog Got wrong handed on the poor crimps, quickly followed by flash pump. Then also had a mare topping out! Happy getting it with just one rest though. Great moves throughout.
with Tony stone
Got wrong handed on the poor crimps, quickly followed by flash pump. Then also had a mare topping out! Happy getting it with just one rest though. Great moves throughout.
with Tony stone
Hidden 28 Oct, 2018 TR
mshorter 3 Dec, 2017 Lead RP
FloTilley 11 Dec, 2016 TR RP Maybe one day
Maybe one day
JamesTurnbull97 11 Dec, 2016 Lead RP Was quite a bit harder than I was expecting, glad I didn't try and flash. Couple of quick TRs then led. Great climbing.
with Flo
Was quite a bit harder than I was expecting, glad I didn't try and flash. Couple of quick TRs then led. Great climbing.
with Flo
Hidden 21 Nov, 2015 Sent dnf
NDD 15 Mar, 2015 Lead RP
with maddy
with maddy
nathanlee 9 Nov, 2014 Lead β Pretty much onsight (felt it) but had seen oli on it last year. The start took ages to work out but felt ok when it cooled in the evening. Had thought the bit after the kit would be fine but ended up pulling a bit harder than I would've wanted to! Top route, wanted to do this for ages!
Pretty much onsight (felt it) but had seen oli on it last year. The start took ages to work out but felt ok when it cooled in the evening. Had thought the bit after the kit would be fine but ended up pulling a bit harder than I would've wanted to! Top route, wanted to do this for ages!
dominic lee 9 Nov, 2014 2nd
cherad 8 Jun, 2013 TR dog
with Louise Bell
with Louise Bell
Dave Parton 7 Oct, 2012 Lead
with Ben
with Ben
jacobjacob 15 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S Jumped off to test the fall onto the pad at the first crux so maybe doesn't count as an onsight... The line in the rockfax is slightly wrong, the line goes about two meters straight up from the gear before going left.
Jumped off to test the fall onto the pad at the first crux so maybe doesn't count as an onsight... The line in the rockfax is slightly wrong, the line goes about two meters straight up from the gear before going left.
Ed Booth 28 Oct, 2011 TR RP Glad didn't leave it. really enjoyed working it out on a rope. found it a hard boulder problem too. Took quite a few tries to work out. Would have ended up flat on my ass trying onsight. Want to come back to lead it.
with Dave Rose
Glad didn't leave it. really enjoyed working it out on a rope. found it a hard boulder problem too. Took quite a few tries to work out. Would have ended up flat on my ass trying onsight. Want to come back to lead it.
with Dave Rose
Adam Booth 28 Oct, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 28 Oct, 2011 TR RP
pipof747 6 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
Brown 21 Jul, 2010 2nd
hamer89 21 Mar, 2010 Lead RP too good
too good
dominic lee 17 Oct, 2009 Lead RP should have done this years ago.
should have done this years ago.
dannyboy83 16 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
with garburn
with garburn
Apharri ?Sep, 2009 Lead RP
with Andre Hedger
with Andre Hedger
Ram MkiV 16 Apr, 2008 Lead β Watched Reeve on it last year so not onsight but not far off - used a different (sketchier) method on the crux and didn't have any knowledge of post crux apart from reeve cruised it. I certainly didn't today though! The crux start was in ok nick, the rest of the route however was pretty dirty and lichenous. Should have definitely abbed down and cleaned it and put some chalk on the holds. Oh well, scrabbled my way to the top with a few mightily exciting foot pops and a couple of very tenuous feeling hand swaps. Glad I wasn't belaying or watching! Al thought I was off every move apparently....
with Alex M, Alex B, Toby W
Watched Reeve on it last year so not onsight but not far off - used a different (sketchier) method on the crux and didn't have any knowledge of post crux apart from reeve cruised it. I certainly didn't today though! The crux start was in ok nick, the rest of the route however was pretty dirty and lichenous. Should have definitely abbed down and cleaned it and put some chalk on the holds. Oh well, scrabbled my way to the top with a few mightily exciting foot pops and a couple of very tenuous feeling hand swaps. Glad I wasn't belaying or watching! Al thought I was off every move apparently....
with Alex M, Alex B, Toby W
Hidden 12 Dec, 2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 20 Nov, 2007 Lead β
Hidden 24 Oct, 2007 Lead dnf
Hidden 6 Oct, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden ?Feb, 2006 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead β Checked gear on abseil.
with Dave Ferguson
Checked gear on abseil.
with Dave Ferguson
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Feb, 2004 Lead β Abbed down the line first. On the ab you realise that the holds are actually very positive. Brilliant route
with Mike Weeks
Abbed down the line first. On the ab you realise that the holds are actually very positive. Brilliant route
with Mike Weeks
Gus 11 Dec, 2002 Lead RP awesome!
awesome!
Jon Read ?Mar, 1999 Lead RP No mats.
No mats.
craig matheson ?Sep, 1997 Lead RP
with Rob Matheson
with Rob Matheson
Hidden 19 Sep, 1995 Lead β
Hidden ?Jul, 1995 2nd
Hidden ??, 1995 2nd β
pauldrew ??, 1992 TR
Seb Grieve ??, 1990 - Felt tough for E6. Top roped first then led.
Felt tough for E6. Top roped first then led.
Hidden ??, 1983 2nd
Phil Davidson ??, 1982 Solo O/S Nah don't agree with being pumpy or desperate!! Soloed this onsight in 1982 no big cigar but it hadn't even been led then!!
with Jim jewel as witness
Nah don't agree with being pumpy or desperate!! Soloed this onsight in 1982 no big cigar but it hadn't even been led then!!
with Jim jewel as witness
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