UKC

11m.

Rockfax Description
The wide crack is a good warm-up for the Eliminates if you squirm it, and it might just make you change your plan for the day. The bold (reckless?) can layback it instead. A short continuation pitch (VS 5a ) is available up and left. © Rockfax

FA. Chuck Cooke 1949

Ticklists: Wide Cracks, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Thrutch and Clutch, UK road to wide crack mastery, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics.


ClimberDateStyle
George Frisby 10/Nov Lead rpt

Rowland's downward facing toe heel jam technique made this so much easier. Feels like a different route now.

rowland penty 10/Nov Lead dog

Worked out the twinkle-toes off-width technique and then it's very easy. But would be very scary without the massive cam

countchalkula 10/Nov 2nd β
George Frisby 02/Nov Lead dog

Fisher Price my first offwidth experience for me. Great route to learn offwidth technique if you have a size 6 BD cam, otherwise is a solo as once you've got the chockstone it's all over really.

crossleysm 07/Oct 2nd O/S
with Dale Colver
Hidden 15/Aug Lead dnf
Sam B 23/Jul Solo G/U

First climb at the grade. Offwidthed, rather than laybacked. Perhaps a little soft for the grade, if you like that sort of thing. I free soloed it. If leading, it might just about take a DMM Dragon #8 or similar, but you'd be better off just lassoing the chockstone. Passing this as the left hand edge begins to overhang is the crux.

rtdennison 18/Apr Lead

An absolute struggle all the way to the chock! Felt like i didn't actually do a single move but more like the rock had frubed me up to the top. Can now claim the title "Chockstone Cowboy"

with Pete
James Oakes 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/17 2nd rpt
annep11 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Ooft! Did a bit of lassoing mid-route using Jamie's very, very long sling.

nickb1 16/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with annep11
James Smith 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Scary!

with melon
Melonfly ?/Jul/17 2nd

Not a great warm up

RKirke 29/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Stroppy
Stroppy 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Challenging

with RKirke
ashtond6 25/Mar/17 Lead

3rd (!) go! Miles harder than left eliminate. Similar difficultly to right eliminate but not as long.

robblowen 25/Mar/17 2nd

Wow, hardwork!!!

stemill 13/Nov/16 2nd dog
with Mike Buddle
Chimnastics 17/Sep/16 Lead dog

Hard to comment on the grade, as off-widths seem to have their own grading system! 'Twas a bloody struggle, and I needed a couple of rests after flogging myself low down. Half the problem is just accepting the intense physical struggle required, and never feeling 100% secure, and just getting on with it. Loved it!

with tp45597
w-watson 15/May/16 Lead
with Flavio
Flavio 15/May/16 2nd
EllieWoods 16/Apr/16 TR O/S
MichaelGallimore 09/Apr/16 2nd rpt

First time i led this I shuffled upnthe chimney. I tried this again seconding and am really surprised I didn't hurt myself the first time. Felt pretty dangerous. Lowered off and did the route again with Andy's layback sequence which felt more like e1.

with Andy Cmc
Hannes B 02/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Neil C
Dan Mckinlay ?/Sep/15 2nd

E1 5a hahahaha! Brilliant route.

tradisrad ??/2015 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 05/Oct/14 Lead dog

Hard work! had a rest on rope at chockstone and after that found the layback sequence which is probably 5a if you're fresh!

deacondeacon 05/Oct/14 Lead RP

Slipped off. Ended up laybacking it. Good but tough for the grade. Same difficulty as left eliminate?

gazfellows 27/Sep/14 Lead

To f...ing hard at 5a! Although I don't think my off width climbing is as good as I thought. I'll be fricking back. Arrrrrggghhh.

with Nic
MichaelGallimore 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Struggled trying to lassoo chock stone in wind for ages but couldn't. Writhed further up, pumped out of my mind, my whole body screaming, and tickled the chockstone. Poor crimp, heart in mouth cut loose as the chockstone rotated then rockover to arrange first pro, but by then it was all over. Now I know how a chimney can be e1. I thought they were all easy before.

with Jared Kitchen
Alex Hallam 16/Feb/14 2nd dog

Will be back to lead, not bad for a first off-width, just fell out at the bulge with a slipping foot. Felt sick at the end with the effort of the upper section. Awesome.

dannyboy83 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
admackie 04/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Palmer
robgixer 29/Sep/13 2nd
masa-alpin 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Used 2 mats and Friend No.6, which fit (only just) - HVS 5a with the gear. A bit of reminiscent of Strapiombo in Tremadog. Good climb!

Jim Slater 26/Aug/12 2nd rpt

Worked on lead.

Graeme Hammond 26/Aug/12 Lead G/U

Obviously not an offwidth hero as this seemed nails for 5a. Eventually managed to get it after several goes.

Andy Peak 1 14/Aug/12 Lead

A rite buger of a climbe

Dan Geh 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Lovely off-widthing.

with AMJ098, tgeh
AMJ098 28/Jul/12 -
with Dan Geh
tgeh 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S

only hvs with a big cam

with adam jordan, dan geh
alexjz 16/Apr/12 2nd dog
with Matt Burdekin
tlmarjot 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Route 200 (that have been logged)

with Dave Morse
david morse 19/Feb/12 TR

Couldnt lead it without a sneaky pull on the #6! Top roped it to try and learn the art...

with tlmarjot, Vi
i_a_coops 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Calder 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Offwidths 2 - Calder 0. :(

with Diggler
Boy 22/Mar/11 Solo
highlux 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Quite scary, but felt solid on it. Had no gear that would fit it except for a very crap cam in the shallow break. Solo really.

with Pete Hart
PeteH 08/Mar/11 2nd O/S

A very bold layback - might try squirming it next time.

with highlux, Alex@home, Chris Fox
TomPR 24/Feb/11 Solo
bigie bob 16/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead dnf
benkelsey 20/Nov/10 Lead dnf

practising offwidthing. did not happen. no idea what grade it was.. bloody hard work! watched Remus' fantastic attempt and failure.

with Allun, remus
feilx 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
nickwhimster 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

laybacked it after getting nowhere in crack. Unless you've got a big cam no pro until its all over.

Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Bit thrutchy & Squirmy! :)

colkurtz 24/Jan/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 24/Jan/10 Lead
Rob Davies ??/2010 AltLd dnf

Date? Not a clue between us how to do this, even with a BigBro

with Phil A
SR1970 ?/Sep/09 Lead β
dan gibson 21/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
duzinga 14/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Jim and Ewan
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead dog
Milne 28/Jan/08 TR O/S

laybacked all the way, strenuously!

with keith milne
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead
Stig 03/Mar/06 TR O/S
with Chris
chrishedgehog 01/Mar/06 TR

Not really a Severe.

with James
Andy Chubb 10/Apr/05 2nd
with Steve Goodman
UKB Shark 30/Aug/04 Lead rpt
with Gav Pike
duncan 27/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Vladimir Arnoudov
Hidden ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1980 -
Hidden ?/Jul/79 Solo
Derek Ryden ??/1976 Solo O/S

This was Severe in the old Paul Nunn guide, and with no protection! The upgrade to E1 makes it my first extreme lead :)

with Nicola Davies
mikej 02/Feb/69 Lead dnf
with John Bickerdike
Hidden 30/Apr/67 Solo
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set