Rockfax Description
The wide crack is a good warm-up for the Eliminates if you squirm it, and it might just make you change your plan for the day. The bold (reckless?) can layback it instead. A short continuation pitch (VS 5a ) is available up and left. © Rockfax

FA. Chuck Cooke 1949

Ticklists: Wide Cracks, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Thrutch and Clutch, UK road to wide crack mastery, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics.

George Frisby 10/Nov/18 Lead rpt

Rowland's downward facing toe heel jam technique made this so much easier. Feels like a different route now.

rowland penty 10/Nov/18 Lead dog

Worked out the twinkle-toes off-width technique and then it's very easy. But would be very scary without the massive cam

countchalkula 10/Nov/18 2nd β
George Frisby 02/Nov/18 Lead dog

Fisher Price my first offwidth experience for me. Great route to learn offwidth technique if you have a size 6 BD cam, otherwise is a solo as once you've got the chockstone it's all over really.

crossleysm 07/Oct/18 2nd O/S
with Dale Colver
Hidden 15/Aug/18 Lead dnf
Sam B 23/Jul/18 Solo G/U

First climb at the grade. Offwidthed, rather than laybacked. Perhaps a little soft for the grade, if you like that sort of thing. I free soloed it. If leading, it might just about take a DMM Dragon #8 or similar, but you'd be better off just lassoing the chockstone. Passing this as the left hand edge begins to overhang is the crux.

rtdennison 18/Apr/18 Lead

An absolute struggle all the way to the chock! Felt like i didn't actually do a single move but more like the rock had frubed me up to the top. Can now claim the title "Chockstone Cowboy"

with Pete
James Oakes 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/17 2nd rpt
annep11 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Ooft! Did a bit of lassoing mid-route using Jamie's very, very long sling.

nickb1 16/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with annep11
James Smith 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S


with melon
Melonfly ?/Jul/17 2nd

Not a great warm up

RKirke 29/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Stroppy
Stroppy 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S


with RKirke
ashtond6 25/Mar/17 Lead

3rd (!) go! Miles harder than left eliminate. Similar difficultly to right eliminate but not as long.

robblowen 25/Mar/17 2nd

Wow, hardwork!!!

stemill 13/Nov/16 2nd dog
with Mike Buddle
Chimnastics 17/Sep/16 Lead dog

Hard to comment on the grade, as off-widths seem to have their own grading system! 'Twas a bloody struggle, and I needed a couple of rests after flogging myself low down. Half the problem is just accepting the intense physical struggle required, and never feeling 100% secure, and just getting on with it. Loved it!

with tp45597
w-watson 15/May/16 Lead
with Flavio
Flavio 15/May/16 2nd
EllieWoods 16/Apr/16 TR O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Hannes B 02/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Neil C
Dan Mckinlay ?/Sep/15 2nd

E1 5a hahahaha! Brilliant route.

tradisrad ??/2015 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 05/Oct/14 Lead dog

Hard work! had a rest on rope at chockstone and after that found the layback sequence which is probably 5a if you're fresh!

deacondeacon 05/Oct/14 Lead RP

Slipped off. Ended up laybacking it. Good but tough for the grade. Same difficulty as left eliminate?

gazfellows 27/Sep/14 Lead

To f...ing hard at 5a! Although I don't think my off width climbing is as good as I thought. I'll be fricking back. Arrrrrggghhh.

with Nic
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Alex Hallam 16/Feb/14 2nd dog

Will be back to lead, not bad for a first off-width, just fell out at the bulge with a slipping foot. Felt sick at the end with the effort of the upper section. Awesome.

dannyboy83 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
admackie 04/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Palmer
robgixer 29/Sep/13 2nd
masa-alpin 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Used 2 mats and Friend No.6, which fit (only just) - HVS 5a with the gear. A bit of reminiscent of Strapiombo in Tremadog. Good climb!

Jim Slater 26/Aug/12 2nd rpt

Worked on lead.

Graeme Hammond 26/Aug/12 Lead G/U

Obviously not an offwidth hero as this seemed nails for 5a. Eventually managed to get it after several goes.

Andy Peak 1 14/Aug/12 Lead

A rite buger of a climbe

Dan Geh 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Lovely off-widthing.

with AMJ098, tgeh
AMJ098 28/Jul/12 -
with Dan Geh
tgeh 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S

only hvs with a big cam

with adam jordan, dan geh
alexjz 16/Apr/12 2nd dog
with Matt Burdekin
tlmarjot 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Route 200 (that have been logged)

with Dave Morse
david morse 19/Feb/12 TR

Couldnt lead it without a sneaky pull on the #6! Top roped it to try and learn the art...

with tlmarjot, Vi
i_a_coops 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Calder 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Offwidths 2 - Calder 0. :(

with Diggler
Boy 22/Mar/11 Solo
highlux 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Quite scary, but felt solid on it. Had no gear that would fit it except for a very crap cam in the shallow break. Solo really.

with Pete Hart
PeteH 08/Mar/11 2nd O/S

A very bold layback - might try squirming it next time.

with highlux, Alex@home, Chris Fox
TomPR 24/Feb/11 Solo
bigie bob 16/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead dnf
benkelsey 20/Nov/10 Lead dnf

practising offwidthing. did not happen. no idea what grade it was.. bloody hard work! watched Remus' fantastic attempt and failure.

with Allun, remus
feilx 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
nickwhimster 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

laybacked it after getting nowhere in crack. Unless you've got a big cam no pro until its all over.

Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Bit thrutchy & Squirmy! :)

colkurtz 24/Jan/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 24/Jan/10 Lead
Rob Davies ??/2010 AltLd dnf

Date? Not a clue between us how to do this, even with a BigBro

with Phil A
SR1970 ?/Sep/09 Lead β
dan gibson 21/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
duzinga 14/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Jim and Ewan
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead dog
Milne 28/Jan/08 TR O/S

laybacked all the way, strenuously!

with keith milne
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead
Stig 03/Mar/06 TR O/S
with Chris
chrishedgehog 01/Mar/06 TR

Not really a Severe.

with James
Andy Chubb 10/Apr/05 2nd
with Steve Goodman
UKB Shark 30/Aug/04 Lead rpt
with Gav Pike
duncan 27/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Vladimir Arnoudov
Hidden ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1980 -
Hidden ?/Jul/79 Solo
Derek Ryden ??/1976 Solo O/S

This was Severe in the old Paul Nunn guide, and with no protection! The upgrade to E1 makes it my first extreme lead :)

with Nicola Davies
mikej 02/Feb/69 Lead dnf
with John Bickerdike
Hidden 30/Apr/67 Solo
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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
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High HVS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 21
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Ground Up
Flashed (β)
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