Rockfax Description
Another of the classic E3 routes at Gardom's. Climb the slabby arete to the right of the cave and lean out to reach a good jug. A gut-wrenching mantel gains the upper wall just right of the rib, which proves to be more delicate and bold. © Rockfax

FFA. Dave Morgan 1976. FAA. Pete Biven 1956. Biven reached the mantelshelf using tension, though the moves were done free. The route then zig-zagged up the final buttress all the way out to Moyer's and back!

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List.

Gordon W 08/Apr Lead O/S

Climbed up to the slopey rail, downclimbed , then went back up again, committed to the cut loose and manteled it out.

with Alkis
Alkis 08/Apr 2nd dog

I could just not do the mantel. The top was fine. Excellent lead by Gordon.

with Alex Goodall, Jack Lisle, AlistairBerridge, Gordon Weight
deacondeacon 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Great fun. Did it with a 'knee scum' lol.

Stroppy 07/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Didn't have the strength left (or possibly in the first place) to do the mantle

chrismadar 28/May/16 Lead dnf

Found getting to the mantle quite tricky, and then got shut down by the mantel. Pumped out after a few attempts.

ian d f 08/May/16 2nd dog
pearson9596 08/May/16 Lead O/S
mrteale 11/Mar/16 Lead dnf

Had a few attempts at the mantleshelf with no luck.. very frustrating. For some reason I keep picking routes with these moves I can't do! Ontos, King Kong.... Managed to downclimb without falling so may come back for the clean send who knows..

with DanOsb
James Oakes 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 19/Sep/15 Lead β
with noaks
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
Teappleby 04/Jun/15 Lead G/U

second go. Really annoyed I didn't commit first time, got mostly mantled and then scared about how high I was above the gear so lowered onto the jug and jumped off. So sweaty, this was not the day the be at gardoms, the first real day of summer!

Hidden 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Misha 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Nice to get this one after failing to do the mantelshelf four years ago. Still took three goes - first go a bit gung-ho (how hard can it be? pretty hard!), dropped onto the jug, second go sussed out the feet but lacked commitment, downclimbed to the hands free rest under the roof, third go went for it and it felt fairly straightforward - feet on, hold the sloper with the left, invert the right into a mantelshelf position, push with the right, foot on, sorted! Enjoyable 5b (may be some easy 5c) headwall, which is well protected with lost of small to medium sized cams and a large cam for the last break - I ran out of cams of the right size so got a sideways micro higher up which was a bit uninspiring. Ah, the brilliance of grit... Still ain't proper climbing though ;-)

with Richard, Ed
eduardo 03/May/14 2nd dog

Hard mantel!

with Misha
switch 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Used a sling on the chockstone out L. Great crux.

WillDoyle 17/Mar/14 Lead RP
sgl0jd 17/Nov/13 -

Harder than any of the E5s and 6s i've done this year!

Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
pudding 30/Apr/11 Lead dnf

gave it a go after nick and phil couldnt manage it, wish i had shorter legs, was so nearly over the bulge!

with nick buckley, phil jarvis
Franco Cookson ??/2011 Solo O/S
natalietanzer 09/May/10 TR RP

mantel is hard - pretty relieved to get it second go!

with OLLIE
MNA123 09/May/10 Lead

Mantel is ok if u just go for it and dnt pussy about. Got a bit lost higher up tho and think i went to far left not sure, gear on upper slab is pants.

with john (Krank)
thomasadixon 26/Sep/09 Lead rpt

Nails mantel, climbed to it loads of times and back down then finally went for it. One proper fall (nice painful whack into the slab) then got it second go.

with Mike
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
thrutch 16/Aug/08 TR dog
with helen
Hidden 10/Aug/08 TR
Hidden ??/2008 -
mbutton ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
Joe Costello 02/Jun/07 -
with Liam, Kev, Matt, James
Luke Brooks 10/Apr/07 2nd
with Kim Hayward
dannyboy83 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead
Mark Riley 29/Apr/06 Lead dnf

The sloper above the jug was green/slippery, not sure if thats the way though...

Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
dominic lee ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
lx ?/Apr/04 Lead


Roget 12/Mar/00 Lead rpt
with jon
marcoleptic ??/2000 TR
ste_d 27/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 27/Jul/98 2nd
SteveB_NWUK_99 ??/1995 TR

Top-roped in the 1990s.

Hidden 14/May/94 TR
mattnuttall 05/Mar/94 2nd O/S
with Ian Vickers
Hidden ??/1992 Lead O/S
Roget 06/May/91 2nd O/S
with colin, baccy
tapley 22/Apr/90 -
TonyF 17/Apr/89 2nd O/S
with Tony Cox
goi.ashmore 28/May/88 Lead RP

Took one small fall at the overhang deliberately as I was recovering from a severly sprained ankle and did not want to set it off again

with Rich Brook
John Marsland 24/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Eduardo Martinez
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set