UKC

Climbs 422
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

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sam leading trad! © mwatson

Crag features

Named after a blacksmith from the Chatsworth Estate, Gardom's is a neglected edge; except for the area around Apple Buttress it is unusual to see another team here. The classic Moyer's Buttress tops the hit list for visitors though and there are plenty of worthwhile offerings spread along the edge. Those who are prepared to pick and choose will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. Gardom's has a quartet of fine routes in the E3 grade with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, The Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset offering a great day out for a suitably talented team. Travelling along the cliff base is tortuous in many areas, returning to the cliff top is often the best option when moving between buttresses. The neglected air of the cliff tends to add to the appeal for many some, making a nice change from the circus atmosphere at more popular venues.

In humid weather, it is unpleasant to climb here; the tree cover gives an airless atmosphere, encouraging lichen growth and midges. Because of this, spring and autumn are the best times to visit, though by choosing carefully a winter's day here can be fun on the right bit of rock. Much of the crag faces in a northerly or northwesterly direction and these faces can often stay green long into the late spring. The tree-cover does offer shelter and the western aspect provides morning respite in hotter weather.

Approach notes

The crag is hidden above the main A621 Sheffield to Baslow road. There is roadside parking by the minor cross roads above the crag. Although space is limited, parking is seldom a problem. Go through the gate then trend right across the moor (often wet) heading for the wood. Cross a couple of stiles and enter the trees. When you exit the trees the first buttresses are below and to the right.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

The seasonal restriction applies to routes from Bilberry Buttress to Stern Face inclusive for nesting ravens.

2022: The ravens are present and reusing the same nest in Gardom's Unconquerable. As usual the restriction will be lifted early if the young fledge before 31st May.

In recent years a Tawny Owl has nested in the Layback Crack/Flake Crack.area - it is not known if they are present in 2022 but please keep your eyes and ears out if climbing in this area.

 

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Climbs at this crag

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