UKC

Climbs 383
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

sam leading trad! © mwatson

Crag features

Named after a blacksmith from the Chatsworth Estate, Gardom's is a neglected edge; except for the area around Apple Buttress it is unusual to see another team here. The classic Moyer's Buttress tops the hit list for visitors though and there are plenty of worthwhile offerings spread along the edge. Those who are prepared to pick and choose will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. Gardom's has a quartet of fine routes in the E3 grade with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset offering a great day out for a suitably talented team. Travelling along the cliff base is tortuous in many areas, returning to the cliff top is often the best option when moving between buttresses. The neglected air of the cliff tends to add to the appeal for many some, making a nice change from the circus atmosphere at more popular venues.

Approach notes

Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the left-hand end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alternatively, to gain the right-hand end of the edge, approach along the footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Battlement Buttress
2 Scotswood Road
-
E4 6a 1
3 Roadside Attraction
-
E2 5c  
4 Boiling Oil
-
E2 5c  
5 Battlement Wall
-
HVS 5a  
6 Sooty and Sweep
-
E5 6b  
7 Rampart Corner
-
S 2
8 Portcullis
-
M 3
9 Turret Chimney
-
M 2
10 Drawbridge Slab
-
D 4
11 Dungeon Gully
-
M 2
12 The Keep
-
M 2
13 The Watch Tower
-
VD 3
  Gardom's North Boulders
15 Leaf Climb f6B * 8
16 Percy's Roof f6C * 4
17 A Tasty Graunch f7A+ 7
18 First Roof Left f6B+ * 344
19 First Roof Middle f6C * 163
20 Wishbone f7B * 33
21 Joint Care f7A+ * 1
22 Rock End Roll f7A+ * 13
23 Mark's Roof Left-Hand f6C+ *** 531
24 Nigel's Roof f7B+ * 34
25 Mark's Roof f7B *** 225
26 Mark's Roof Original V6 6b ** 225
27 Mark's Roof Direct f7C ** 3
28 Full Circle f7B * 32
29 Dylan's Variant f7A+ * 2
30 Little Arete f6A * 75
31 Seamstress f5 * 56
32 Prowstress f6A+ * 78
33 Ledge Roof f4+ * 48
34 Ledge Crack f4+ * 118
35 Ledge Wall f5+ * 86
36 Ledge Wall Right-Hand f4+ * 33
37 West Wall Left f4 41
38 West Wall f5+ ** 125
39 Alcove Nose f6B+ * 46
40 Alcove Nose Sit-Start
-
V8 6c 3
41 Alcove Arête f5 47
42 Ben's Bulge f7A+ * 11
43 The Grasper f6C * 44
44 Lunacy f7C ** 2
45 Soft on the G f7B *** 150
46 Full Power f8A ** 15
47 8 Ball f8A+ *** 2
48 Rock Hard Bishop f6B+ * 36
49 Soft Groove f5 * 99
50 Soft Groove Sit-Start f6C ** 40
51 Soft Wall f4+ * 41
52 Soft Arête f4+ * 42
53 Soft Ribs f3+ 31
54 Gallstones V8 * 3
55 Kidneystone f7B *** 96
56 Heartland f7C * 6
57 Remarkable * f7A+ * 1
  *Gardom's Left-Hand*
  Black Wall
60 Black Wall Nothing VS 4c 4
61 Black Wall Route 1 S 4a 18
62 Colin's Route
-
S 4a 8
63 Allen's Route
-
VS 4b 14
64 Black Wall Route 2 VS 5a 14
65 Green Wall
-
E4 6a 1
66 Promise HVS 5a 8
67 Tsetse Fly E1 5c * 19
68 Raging Insomnia E3 6a *  
69 Mickey Finn E6 6b *** 7
70 Narcolepsy HVS 5a 11
71 Black Wall Traverse
-
HVS 5b 1
72 Roofies E5 6b ** 1
73 Sleeping Sickness E3 5c *** 23
74 Good Karma E4 6b  
75 Brown Crack S 4a * 87
76 Tower Variation
-
HVD 4a 2
77 The Rattle HVS 5a 3
78 Diamond Back E2 5c 1
79 North End Girdle
-
HVS 5a 1
  Overhang Buttress
81 Thunder VS 4c 11
82 Four Horsemen E2 5b ** 33
83 Lightning Wall HVS 5a ** 45
84 The Igloo E5 6b * 3
85 Spanish Fly E7 6c ** 5
86 Afro f6B ** 34
87 Vaya Con Dios E2 5c ** 29
88 Overhang Buttress Ordinary VS 4b ** 50
89 Infirmary Groove HS 4b 47
  Nowanda Buttress
91 Traction VS 4c * 53
92 Bloc Steno f6C ** 6
93 Gardoms Gate VD * 96
94 Corner Crack D 77
95 Grey Crack VD 84
96 Attraction HVS 5a 23
97 Moyer's Climb S 4a * 143
98 Moyer's Variation S 4b * 96
99 Social Fools E1 5b 11
100 Cobweb Arête/Little Wanda E2 5c 6
101 Nowanda HVS 5a ** 247
102 Landsick E1 5b * 75
103 Landsickness E3 6a ** 42
104 Gain HVD 10
  Garden Face
106 Cave Gully D 65
107 Capstone Climb
-
VD 15
108 Cave Gully Crack HS 4b * 128
109 Chockstone Climb HS 4a 53
110 Garden Face Crack VS 4b * 284
111 Garden Face Direct VS 5a * 205
112 Garden Face Indirect D * 252
113 Gardoms Fence
-
D 12
114 Heather Wall
-
HS 4b 13
115 Small People
-
VS 5b 2
  Och Aye Wall
117 Och Aye Wall Indirect VS 5a * 212
118 Och Aye Wall Direct VS 5b * 161
119 Tartan Route VS 5a * 99
120 Capstone Gully M * 28
121 Nerve Block
-
E5 6a  
122 The Rink
-
E2 5b 2
123 Slime Crack HVS 5a 11
124 Fantasy HVS 5b 7
125 A Dream of White Potamus HVS 5a 2
126 Byne's Crack S 4b ** 44
127 The Working Man
-
E2 5b 2
128 Waggy E7 6c * 2
129 Green Rib
-
E2 5c 5
130 Green Crack
-
HS 4b 16
131 Bad/Angry Fox V5 6b ** 4
132 Little Arête
-
VS 4c * 29
  Pogle's Wood
134 Pogle's Wood Left-Hand f6B * 17
135 Pogle's Wood f6C ** 55
136 Pogle's Wood Sit Start
-
V8 6c ** 13
137 Princess in her Pinks * V1 1
  Moyer's Buttress
139 The Gritsone Treaty f7B ** 17
Climb name Grade
140 Mo's Problem f7A+ *  
141 Cave Arête HVS 5a * 44
142 Stormbringer E3 6a ** 57
143 Monotheism
-
E7 6b *  
144 Moyer's Buttress E1 5b *** 630
145 Imperfect Way
-
E3 5c  
146 Biven's Crack E1 5b ** 116
147 Enigma Variation E3 5c * 13
148 Perfect Day E5 6b *** 31
149 Perfect Day Direct Start f7B *** 47
150 Keith's Corner Crack HS 4b 33
151 Keith's Other Corner Crack
-
VD 8
152 Keith's Arête
-
VD 4a 3
153 Problem Chimney
-
HVD 4a  
  Elliott's Buttress
155 Pining for the Fjords
-
S 4c 2
156 Mr Three Degrees
-
E2 6a 1
157 Pine Crack
-
S 5a 19
158 Baton Route
-
VD 19
159 Elliott's Buttress Indirect VS 4b ** 98
160 Seventy One White Mice E2 6a * 14
161 The Eye of Faith E1 5c *** 333
162 Rhythmic Itch E1 5b ** 85
163 Elliott's Buttress Direct HS 4b ** 533
164 Evasion HVD 4a 11
  Dead Tree Wall
166 Jungle Arête S 4b 18
167 Dead Tree Wall HS 4b * 44
168 Liar/Pants on FIre
-
VS 5a 9
169 Rumour
-
HVS 5b 5
170 Gossip
-
HVS 5b 4
171 Central Overlap
-
VS 4c  
172 Right-Hand Flake
-
VD 2
173 Flake Chimney
-
M 2
174 Capstone Rib
-
HVS 5b * 4
  Blacksmith's Wall
176 Striker's Rib
-
E1 5c 8
177 Smithy
-
HVD 12
178 Blacksmith's Wall
-
VD 12
179 October Climb
-
HVD 12
180 Spring Route
-
HS 4b 1
  Oread Buttress
182 Nymph's Arête VS 4c 21
183 Oread VS 4c ** 185
184 Yellow Chimney M 18
185 Drum Roll f7A+ *  
186 Another Green World V8 6c *  
  Bin Laden's Cave
188 Bin Lillermule f7A+ * 15
189 Bin Laden's Cave f7A *** 114
  *Gardom's Right-Hand*
  Undertaker's Buttress
192 Gemstone
-
HVS 5a 3
193 Milestone
-
S 4a 5
194 Blaze VS 4c * 15
195 Undertaker's Buttress VS 4c ** 188
196 Hearse Arête E1 5b ** 126
197 Coffin Nail
-
HVS 5a 5
198 Rest in Pieces
-
VS 5b * 3
  Marble Wall
200 Route III
-
VD 4
201 Tales of the Black Widower E5 6a * 1
202 Marshall's Route HVS 5a 8
203 White's Route HS 4b 12
204 Birthday Climb HVD 14
205 Pedestal Climb HS 4a * 16
206 Selladore E8 7a **  
207 Nursery Slab HVS 5a 10
208 Nursery Cryme
-
HVD 4a 2
209 Nursery Traverse
-
D 5
  Gardom's Unconquerable
211 Bilberry Buttress VS 5a * 100
212 Bilberry Chimney HVD 4a 3
213 Crottle E1 5b * 30
214 Stepped Crack D * 54
215 Golly
-
V0+ 5b 1
216 Gardom's Unconquerable VS 4c ** 211
217 Whillans' Blind Variant E1 5b * 28
218 Willy
-
V1 5b 1
219 Vallum
-
E3 5c 1
220 Boxing Clever
-
S 4a 2
  Chimney Face
222 Contempt
-
HVD 4a 13
223 The Chimney HVD 5
224 Ball Bearing Wall HS 4b 5
225 Chimney Face
-
HS 4a 16
226 The Backclip
-
HS 4b 1
227 Stern Face
-
S 4b 9
  Tree Buttress
229 Tree Buttress VS 4b 34
230 The Midas Man E3 6a 4
231 Tree Climb HS 4b 31
232 Tree Neighbour S 4a 11
233 Porridge egg E6 6a * 6
234 Third Time Lucky VS 4c * 33
235 Gom Jabbar E8 6c *  
236 Boon's Wad
-
E2 6a 1
237 By-Pass Route HS 4b 13
238 Central Crack HVS 5b 9
239 Wall Finish VS 4c 2
240 Agadoo E3 6b 1
241 Agadoo Sit-Start V5 6b ** 1
242 Albert Spansworthy E5 6b *  
  Wall Buttress
244 Nah'han E8 6c *** 13
245 Make it Snappy E6 6b *** 25
246 Ecky Thump E6 6c * 1
247 The Crocodile E3 5c ** 100
248 Right-Hand Crack VS 4c * 78
249 Gnasher
-
E3 5c  
250 Quandary Wall
-
HVD 4a 12
251 Red Sky Rib VD * 31
252 Split Slab
-
VS 4c 14
253 Chunky Doorstep
-
HVS 5a 3
  Capillary Crack Buttress
255 Soloman f6A+ 2
256 Squeeze Your Lemon
-
E1 6a 2
257 Chav's Head
-
V3 6a 2
258 A Fearful Orange f6C+ ** 9
259 A Fearful Head
-
V5 6a 1
260 Neutral Milk Hotel f6A * 4
261 Two-Headed Boy f6C * 11
262 It's a Gas E1 5c 2
263 Jumping Jack Flash HVS 5b * 2
264 Broken Buttress VD 9
265 Ladder Coins f6B 1
266 Gamorilla HVS 5a 1
267 Capillary Crack VS 4c * 48
268 First Blood
-
V0 5b 1
  Grooved Wall Area
270 Whisky Wall S 3c * 24
271 Muswell Hillbillies E4 5c 1
272 Waterloo Sunset E3 5c *** 85
273 Midgey Meal E3 5c * 2
274 Finale Groove VS 5a * 321
275 Babylon's Groove VS 5a * 102
276 Babylon's Finale VS 5a 5
277 Central Groove VS 4b 33
278 Tree Groove VS 4b * 176
Climb name Grade
279 Tree Groove Direct VS 5a * 30
280 Right-Hand Groove VS 4c 16
281 Split Crack VS 4b 5
282 Slanting Groove
-
D 7
  Apple Buttress
284 Layback Crack VS 5a * 170
285 Flake Crack HS 4b * 167
286 Twilight's Last Gleaming E2 5b 3
287 N.M.C. Crack HVD 3c *** 1007
288 Apple Arête Direct E4 5c * 58
289 Apple Arête VS 4b *** 1377
290 Apple Crack VD * 537
291 Apple Core E2 6a 12
292 Cider Apple HS 4a * 264
293 Giant's Staircase S 4a * 276
294 Bitter VS 5a * 503
295 Master of Thought E2 5c * 69
296 Velvet Cracks VS 4b * 517
297 Apple Jack Crack VD * 492
298 Cydrax HVS 5b * 321
299 Cydrax Start f5 * 4
300 Cider HVS 5a * 177
301 Cider Start f4+ * 2
302 Double Bum f6B+ 16
303 Blenheim Gully VS 4c * 26
304 Blenheim Buttress E1 5a 17
305 Blenheim E1 5a * 33
306 Wall and Chimney
-
HVD 2
307 Beaufort
-
HVS 5b 3
308 Three Trees Crack
-
VD 4
309 Orchard E1 5a 5
  The Quarries
311 President's Arête
-
VS 4c * 15
312 Ross's Route
-
D 1
313 All the President's Men E1 5b * 9
314 President's Wall HVS 5a 7
315 President's Wall Direct E2 5b 1
316 Senator's Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
317 Nervous Tension
-
E4 6b  
318 Surface Tension
-
E4 6b  
319 Lost Boy V5 * 3
320 Hide-Away Climb
-
VS 4c 1
321 Dirty Business Left-Hand f6B+ * 2
322 Dirty Business f6B+ ** 9
323 Plan D V9 7a 3
324 Business as Usual f6C+ ** 12
325 Forward Thinking Sound Engineer f7A+ *  
  Pillar Wall
327 Charlotte Rampling E6 6b ** 13
328 Hired Goons E8 6c * 1
329 Left-Hand Pillar Crack E1 5b ** 69
330 Right-Hand Pillar Crack HVS 5a ** 46
331 Elliott's Crack S 4a * 125
332 Headless Chicken
-
E1 5c  
333 English Voodoo f6C+ ** 44
334 English Voodoo Sit-Start
-
V7 6c ** 16
  *Gardom's South End*
336 The Feasibility Pebble * V4 * 1
337 Pit Fighter *
-
V8+ ** 1
  The Rocky Jumble
339 Sidepull Wall
-
V2 6a 1
340 The Teacup
-
V0- 4b 8
341 The Saucerer
-
V0 5a 6
342 Slob
-
V3 6a 5
343 The Wing
-
V3 6a 3
344 Flakeaway * f3 1
345 Koudai * f4 1
346 Dolly's Rockover * f6B 1
347 Peace Path * f6C  
348 Pathologist * f6B+ 1
  The Main Area
350 First Slab
-
V0 5a 5
351 First Slab Right
-
S 4
352 Durian
-
S 4c 3
353 Crap'alackin V7 6b 1
354 Arête f6A * 50
355 Wall Past The Flatty f5+ * 56
356 Small Ones are More Juicy f6B 8
357 Tangerine
-
VS 4c * 4
358 Kumquat
-
HS 4c 8
359 Strapadictionary
-
V0- 4b 4
360 Forge Ahead
-
V2 5c 2
361 Scoop Tower
-
V0 5a 11
362 The Mellow Bellow
-
V2 5c 1
363 The Scoop
-
V2 5c 2
364 The Sausage of King Meersbrook f7C+ * 3
365 John Player Special f7A 3
  The Wardrobe
367 Leaning Block
-
M 7
368 Wardrobe Bulge
-
V3 6b 1
369 Captain Cabinets f6B+ * 22
370 Wardrobe Ridge f6A+ * 29
371 Suavito f7B *** 137
372 Escondido f7C * 1
373 Scary Rib
-
V2 5c  
  G-Thang Area
375 Swift Nick V5 6b 1
376 Left Triplet Arête f5 * 14
377 Left Triplet Slab f4+ 17
378 Left Crack
-
V0- 4a 13
379 Middle Triplet Arête f5+ * 14
380 Middle Wall f4+ * 32
381 Middle Triplet Ridge f5+ * 29
382 Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-Start V3 6a * 9
383 China In Your Hands f7B+ *** 16
384 Barry Sheene f7C ** 9
385 G-Thang f6B+ *** 251
386 G-Thang Sit-Start
-
V5 6b *** 92
387 Stung Left-Hand V1 5b 9
388 Stung f5+ 39
389 The Sting f5+ * 36
  Moorside Rocks
391 Short Arête f6B * 33
392 Right Arête f6C * 7
393 Choked Chimney VD 4b 45
394 Charlotte Dumpling f6B * 20
395 Will's Dyno f8A ** 1
396 Superbloc f8A+ *** 1
397 Straight Chimney HVD 4a * 26
398 Batter Patter f6C+ * 3
399 Homeless E8 6c *  
400 Brazil E6 6b * 1
401 Brazil Start f6C * 3
402 Moorside Crack VS 5a * 12
403 Press Gang E3 5c 2
404 Moorside Rib VS 5a * 27
405 The Jackalope f7A *** 35
406 Small Worlds E3 6a 2
407 Pillar Chimney D 21
408 Moorside Rocks Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b 1
  Stump Hole Cavern
410 Stump Cream
-
V1 5c 2
411 Stump Cream Extension V4 6b 2
412 Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)
-
V8 6c * 15
413 Stump Hole Cavern
-
V10 7a *  
414 Stumpy V0- 4a 5
415 Scout * V2 5c  
416 Dhalsim *
-
f8A+ *** 1
417 The Circle of Truth * f7B ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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