Climbs 378
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

sam leading trad! © mwatson

Crag features

Named after a blacksmith from the Chatsworth Estate, Gardom's is a neglected edge; except for the area around Apple Buttress it is unusual to see another team here. The classic Moyer's Buttress tops the hit list for visitors though and there are plenty of worthwhile offerings spread along the edge. Those who are prepared to pick and choose will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. Gardom's has a quartet of fine routes in the E3 grade with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset offering a great day out for a suitably talented team. Travelling along the cliff base is tortuous in many areas, returning to the cliff top is often the best option when moving between buttresses. The neglected air of the cliff tends to add to the appeal for many some, making a nice change from the circus atmosphere at more popular venues.

Approach notes

Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the left-hand end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.

Alternatively, to gain the right-hand end of the edge, approach along the footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Battlement Buttress
2 Scotswood Road
-
E4 6a 1
3 Roadside Attraction
-
E2 5c  
4 Boiling Oil
-
E2 5c  
5 Battlement Wall
-
HVS 5a  
6 Sooty and Sweep
-
E5 6b  
7 Rampart Corner
-
S 2
8 Portcullis
-
M 3
9 Turret Chimney
-
M 2
10 Drawbridge Slab
-
D 4
11 Dungeon Gully
-
M 2
12 The Keep
-
M 2
13 The Watch Tower
-
VD 3
  Gardom's North Boulders
15 Leaf Climb f6B * 5
16 Percy's Roof f6C * 3
17 A Tasty Graunch f7A+ 6
18 First Roof Left f6B+ * 265
19 First Roof Middle f6C * 120
20 Wishbone f7B * 18
21 Joint Care f7A+ *  
22 Rock End Roll f7A+ * 6
23 Mark's Roof Left-Hand f6C+ *** 466
24 Nigel's Roof f7B+ * 28
25 Mark's Roof f7B *** 181
26 Mark's Roof Original V6 6b ** 180
27 Mark's Roof Direct f7C ** 3
28 Full Circle f7B * 26
29 Dylan's Variant f7A+ * 2
30 Little Arete f6A * 57
31 Seamstress f5 * 39
32 Prowstress f6A+ * 74
33 Ledge Roof f4+ * 37
34 Ledge Crack f4+ * 99
35 Ledge Wall f5+ * 73
36 Ledge Wall Right-Hand f4+ * 20
37 West Wall Left f4 27
38 West Wall f5+ ** 95
39 Alcove Nose f6B+ * 42
40 Alcove Nose Sit-Start
-
V8 6c 2
41 Alcove Arête f5 32
42 Ben's Bulge f7A+ * 11
43 The Grasper f6C * 37
44 Lunacy f7C ** 1
45 Soft on the G f7B *** 114
46 Full Power f8A ** 10
47 8 Ball f8A+ ***  
48 Rock Hard Bishop f6B+ * 32
49 Soft Groove f5 * 80
50 Soft Groove Sit-Start f6C ** 29
51 Soft Wall f4+ * 30
52 Soft Arête f4+ * 31
53 Soft Ribs f3+ 26
54 Gallstones V8 * 3
55 Kidneystone f7B *** 66
56 Heartland f7C * 6
  *Gardom's Left-Hand*
  Black Wall
59 Black Wall Nothing VS 4c 3
60 Black Wall Route 1 S 4a 17
61 Colin's Route
-
S 4a 8
62 Allen's Route
-
VS 4b 14
63 Black Wall Route 2 VS 5a 14
64 Green Wall
-
E4 6a 1
65 Promise HVS 5a 7
66 Tsetse Fly E1 5c * 18
67 Raging Insomnia E3 6a *  
68 Mickey Finn E6 6b *** 5
69 Narcolepsy HVS 5a 9
70 Black Wall Traverse
-
HVS 5b 1
71 Roofies E5 6b ** 1
72 Sleeping Sickness E3 5c *** 25
73 Good Karma E4 6b  
74 Brown Crack S 4a * 84
75 Tower Variation
-
HVD 4a 2
76 The Rattle HVS 5a 3
77 Diamond Back E2 5c 1
78 North End Girdle
-
HVS 5a 1
  Overhang Buttress
80 Thunder VS 4c 10
81 Four Horsemen E2 5b ** 30
82 Lightning Wall HVS 5a ** 42
83 The Igloo E5 6b * 2
84 Spanish Fly E7 6c ** 4
85 Afro f6B ** 28
86 Vaya Con Dios E2 5c ** 24
87 Overhang Buttress Ordinary VS 4b ** 48
88 Infirmary Groove HS 4b 43
  Nowanda Buttress
90 Traction VS 4c * 49
91 Bloc Steno f6C ** 6
92 Gardoms Gate VD * 90
93 Corner Crack D 74
94 Grey Crack VD 77
95 Attraction HVS 5a 22
96 Moyer's Climb S 4a * 135
97 Moyer's Variation S 4b * 93
98 Social Fools E1 5b 10
99 Cobweb Arête/Little Wanda E2 5c 6
100 Nowanda HVS 5a ** 241
101 Landsick E1 5b * 69
102 Landsickness E3 6a ** 40
103 Gain HVD 10
  Garden Face
105 Cave Gully D 65
106 Capstone Climb
-
VD 15
107 Cave Gully Crack HS 4b * 119
108 Chockstone Climb HS 4a 51
109 Garden Face Crack VS 4b * 260
110 Garden Face Direct VS 5a * 198
111 Garden Face Indirect D * 231
112 Gardoms Fence
-
D 12
113 Heather Wall
-
HS 4b 12
114 Small People
-
VS 5b 2
  Och Aye Wall
116 Och Aye Wall Indirect VS 5a * 202
117 Och Aye Wall Direct VS 5b * 152
118 Tartan Route VS 5a * 94
119 Capstone Gully M * 29
120 Nerve Block
-
E5 6a  
121 The Rink
-
E2 5b 1
122 Slime Crack HVS 5a 10
123 Fantasy HVS 5b 7
124 A Dream of White Potamus HVS 5a 2
125 Byne's Crack S 4b ** 41
126 The Working Man
-
E2 5b 2
127 Waggy E7 6c * 2
128 Green Rib
-
E2 5c 5
129 Green Crack
-
HS 4b 14
130 Bad/Angry Fox V5 6b ** 4
131 Little Arête
-
VS 4c * 27
  Pogle's Wood
133 Pogle's Wood Left-Hand f6B * 11
134 Pogle's Wood f6C ** 48
135 Pogle's Wood Sit Start
-
V8 6c ** 12
  Moyer's Buttress
137 The Gritsone Treaty f7B ** 7
138 Mo's Problem f7A+ *  
139 Cave Arête HVS 5a * 43
140 Stormbringer E3 6a ** 53
141 Monotheism
-
E7 6b *  
142 Moyer's Buttress E1 5b *** 677
143 Imperfect Way
-
E3 5c  
144 Biven's Crack E1 5b ** 108
145 Enigma Variation E3 5c * 12
146 Perfect Day E5 6b *** 43
147 Perfect Day Direct Start f7B *** 36
148 Keith's Corner Crack HS 4b 31
149 Keith's Other Corner Crack
-
VD 8
150 Keith's Arête
-
VD 4a 3
151 Problem Chimney
-
HVD 4a  
  Elliott's Buttress
153 Pining for the Fjords
-
S 4c 2
154 Mr Three Degrees
-
E2 6a 1
155 Pine Crack
-
S 5a 19
156 Baton Route
-
VD 18
157 Elliott's Buttress Indirect VS 4b ** 92
158 Seventy One White Mice E2 6a * 13
159 The Eye of Faith E1 5c *** 321
160 Rhythmic Itch E1 5b ** 74
161 Elliott's Buttress Direct HS 4b ** 481
162 Evasion HVD 4a 9
  Dead Tree Wall
164 Jungle Arête S 4b 15
165 Dead Tree Wall HS 4b * 41
166 Liar/Pants on FIre
-
VS 5a 9
167 Rumour
-
HVS 5b 5
168 Gossip
-
HVS 5b 4
169 Central Overlap
-
VS 4c  
170 Right-Hand Flake
-
VD 1
171 Flake Chimney
-
M 1
172 Capstone Rib
-
HVS 5b * 4
  Blacksmith's Wall
174 Striker's Rib
-
E1 5c 8
175 Smithy
-
HVD 11
176 Blacksmith's Wall
-
VD 11
177 October Climb
-
HVD 12
178 Spring Route
-
HS 4b 1
  Oread Buttress
180 Nymph's Arête VS 4c 19
181 Oread VS 4c ** 171
182 Yellow Chimney M 13
183 Drum Roll f7A+ *  
184 Another Green World V8 6c *  
  Bin Laden's Cave
186 Bin Lillermule f7A+ * 12
187 Bin Laden's Cave f7A *** 84
  *Gardom's Right-Hand*
  Undertaker's Buttress
190 Gemstone
-
HVS 5a 3
191 Milestone
-
S 4a 5
192 Blaze VS 4c * 15
193 Undertaker's Buttress VS 4c ** 169
194 Hearse Arête E1 5b ** 116
195 Coffin Nail
-
HVS 5a 5
196 Rest in Pieces
-
VS 5b * 3
  Marble Wall
198 Route III
-
VD 4
199 Tales of the Black Widower E5 6a * 1
200 Marshall's Route HVS 5a 6
201 White's Route HS 4b 11
202 Birthday Climb HVD 14
203 Pedestal Climb HS 4a * 15
204 Selladore E8 7a **  
205 Nursery Slab HVS 5a 10
206 Nursery Cryme
-
HVD 4a 2
207 Nursery Traverse
-
D 5
  Gardom's Unconquerable
209 Bilberry Buttress VS 5a * 93
210 Bilberry Chimney HVD 4a 3
211 Crottle E1 5b * 29
212 Stepped Crack D * 53
213 Golly
-
V0+ 5b 1
214 Gardom's Unconquerable VS 4c ** 212
215 Whillans' Blind Variant E1 5b * 27
216 Willy
-
V1 5b 1
217 Vallum
-
E3 5c 1
218 Boxing Clever
-
S 4a 2
  Chimney Face
220 Contempt
-
HVD 4a 13
221 The Chimney HVD 5
222 Ball Bearing Wall HS 4b 4
223 Chimney Face
-
HS 4a 16
224 The Backclip
-
HS 4b 1
225 Stern Face
-
S 4b 9
  Tree Buttress
227 Tree Buttress VS 4b 34
228 The Midas Man E3 6a 4
229 Tree Climb HS 4b 30
230 Tree Neighbour S 4a 8
231 Porridge egg E6 6a * 6
232 Third Time Lucky VS 4c * 32
233 Gom Jabbar E8 6c *  
234 Boon's Wad
-
E2 6a 1
235 By-Pass Route HS 4b 13
236 Central Crack HVS 5b 9
237 Wall Finish VS 4c 2
238 Agadoo E3 6b 1
239 Agadoo Sit-Start V5 6b ** 1
240 Albert Spansworthy E5 6b *  
  Wall Buttress
242 Nah'han E8 6c *** 10
243 Make it Snappy E6 6b *** 22
244 Ecky Thump E6 6c * 1
245 The Crocodile E3 5c ** 102
246 Right-Hand Crack VS 4c * 74
247 Gnasher
-
E3 5c  
248 Quandary Wall
-
HVD 4a 11
249 Red Sky Rib VD * 29
250 Split Slab
-
VS 4c 14
251 Chunky Doorstep
-
HVS 5a 3
  Capillary Crack Buttress
253 Soloman f6A+ 2
254 Squeeze Your Lemon
-
E1 6a 1
255 Chav's Head
-
V3 6a 2
256 A Fearful Orange f6C+ ** 8
257 A Fearful Head
-
V5 6a 1
258 Neutral Milk Hotel f6A * 4
259 Two-Headed Boy f6C * 11
260 It's a Gas E1 5c 2
261 Jumping Jack Flash HVS 5b * 2
262 Broken Buttress VD 8
263 Ladder Coins f6B 1
264 Gamorilla HVS 5a 1
265 Capillary Crack VS 4c * 46
266 First Blood
-
V0 5b 1
  Grooved Wall Area
268 Whisky Wall S 3c * 24
269 Muswell Hillbillies E4 5c 1
270 Waterloo Sunset E3 5c *** 95
271 Midgey Meal E3 5c * 2
272 Finale Groove VS 5a * 296
273 Babylon's Groove VS 5a * 95
274 Babylon's Finale VS 5a 4
275 Central Groove VS 4b 32
276 Tree Groove VS 4b * 167
277 Tree Groove Direct VS 5a * 26
278 Right-Hand Groove VS 4c 15
279 Split Crack VS 4b 5
280 Slanting Groove
-
D 7
  Apple Buttress
282 Layback Crack VS 5a * 163
283 Flake Crack HS 4b * 161
284 Twilight's Last Gleaming E2 5b 3
285 N.M.C. Crack HVD 3c *** 924
286 Apple Arête Direct E4 5c * 53
287 Apple Arête VS 4b *** 1286
288 Apple Crack VD * 484
289 Apple Core E2 6a 11
290 Cider Apple HS 4a * 242
291 Giant's Staircase S 4a * 254
292 Bitter VS 5a * 473
293 Master of Thought E2 5c * 65
294 Velvet Cracks VS 4b * 483
295 Apple Jack Crack VD * 460
296 Cydrax HVS 5b * 298
297 Cydrax Start f5 *  
298 Cider HVS 5a * 163
299 Cider Start f4+ *  
300 Double Bum f6B+ 14
301 Blenheim Gully VS 4c * 26
302 Blenheim Buttress E1 5a 16
303 Blenheim E1 5a * 29
304 Wall and Chimney
-
HVD 2
305 Beaufort
-
HVS 5b 3
306 Three Trees Crack
-
VD 4
307 Orchard E1 5a 5
  The Quarries
309 President's Arête
-
VS 4c * 13
310 Ross's Route
-
D 1
311 All the President's Men E1 5b * 9
312 President's Wall HVS 5a 7
313 President's Wall Direct E2 5b 1
314 Senator's Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
315 Nervous Tension
-
E4 6b  
316 Surface Tension
-
E4 6b  
317 Lost Boy V5 * 3
318 Hide-Away Climb
-
VS 4c 1
319 Dirty Business Left-Hand f6B+ * 2
320 Dirty Business f6B+ ** 8
321 Plan D V9 7a 2
322 Business as Usual f6C+ ** 11
323 Forward Thinking Sound Engineer f7A+ *  
  Pillar Wall
325 Charlotte Rampling E6 6b ** 11
326 Hired Goons E8 6c * 1
327 Left-Hand Pillar Crack E1 5b ** 68
328 Right-Hand Pillar Crack HVS 5a ** 47
329 Elliott's Crack S 4a * 112
330 Headless Chicken
-
E1 5c  
331 English Voodoo f6C+ ** 37
332 English Voodoo Sit-Start
-
V7 6c ** 15
  *Gardom's South End*
  The Rocky Jumble
335 Sidepull Wall
-
V2 6a 1
336 The Teacup
-
V0- 4b 8
337 The Saucerer
-
V0 5a 6
338 Slob
-
V3 6a 5
339 The Wing
-
V3 6a 3
340 Flakeaway * f3 1
341 Koudai * f4 1
342 Dolly's Rockover * f6B 1
343 Peace Path * f6C  
344 Pathologist * f6B+ 1
  The Main Area
346 First Slab
-
V0 5a 5
347 First Slab Right
-
S 4
348 Durian
-
S 4c 3
349 Crap'alackin V7 6b 1
350 Arête f6A * 50
351 Wall Past The Flatty f5+ * 56
352 Small Ones are More Juicy f6B 8
353 Tangerine
-
VS 4c * 4
354 Kumquat
-
HS 4c 8
355 Strapadictionary
-
V0- 4b 4
356 Forge Ahead
-
V2 5c 2
357 Scoop Tower
-
V0 5a 11
358 The Mellow Bellow
-
V2 5c 1
359 The Scoop
-
V2 5c 2
360 The Sausage of King Meersbrook f7C+ * 2
361 John Player Special f7A 3
  The Wardrobe
363 Leaning Block
-
M 7
364 Wardrobe Bulge
-
V3 6b 1
365 Captain Cabinets f6B+ * 20
366 Wardrobe Ridge f6A+ * 25
367 Suavito f7B *** 108
368 Escondido f7C * 1
369 Scary Rib
-
V2 5c  
  G-Thang Area
371 Swift Nick V5 6b  
372 Left Triplet Arête f5 * 12
373 Left Triplet Slab f4+ 14
374 Left Crack
-
V0- 4a 11
375 Middle Triplet Arête f5+ * 14
376 Middle Wall f4+ * 24
377 Middle Triplet Ridge f5+ * 26
378 Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-Start V3 6a * 9
379 China In Your Hands f7B+ *** 11
380 Barry Sheene f7C ** 9
381 G-Thang f6B+ *** 223
382 G-Thang Sit-Start
-
V5 6b *** 77
383 Stung Left-Hand V1 5b 8
384 Stung f5+ 29
385 The Sting f5+ * 26
  Moorside Rocks
387 Short Arête f6B * 27
388 Right Arête f6C * 5
389 Choked Chimney VD 4b 43
390 Charlotte Dumpling f6B * 15
391 Will's Dyno f8A ** 1
392 Superbloc f8A+ ***  
393 Straight Chimney HVD 4a * 23
394 Batter Patter f6C+ * 1
395 Homeless E8 6c *  
396 Brazil E6 6b * 1
397 Brazil Start f6C * 2
398 Moorside Crack VS 5a * 11
399 Press Gang E3 5c 2
400 Moorside Rib VS 5a * 25
401 The Jackalope f7A *** 31
402 Small Worlds E3 6a 2
403 Pillar Chimney D 20
404 Moorside Rocks Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b 1
  Stump Hole Cavern
406 Stump Cream
-
V1 5c 2
407 Stump Cream Extension V4 6b 2
408 Stump Hole Cavern (First Bit)
-
V8 6c * 11
409 Stump Hole Cavern
-
V10 7a *  
410 Stumpy V0- 4a 5
411 Scout * V2 5c  
412 Dhalsim *
-
f8A+ *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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