Climbs 378
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

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sam leading trad! © mwatson

Crag features

Named after a blacksmith from the Chatsworth Estate, Gardom's is a neglected edge; except for the area around Apple Buttress it is unusual to see another team here. The classic Moyer's Buttress tops the hit list for visitors though and there are plenty of worthwhile offerings spread along the edge. Those who are prepared to pick and choose will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. Gardom's has a quartet of fine routes in the E3 grade with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset offering a great day out for a suitably talented team. Travelling along the cliff base is tortuous in many areas, returning to the cliff top is often the best option when moving between buttresses. The neglected air of the cliff tends to add to the appeal for many some, making a nice change from the circus atmosphere at more popular venues.

Approach notes

The crag is hidden above the main A621 Sheffield to Baslow road. There is roadside parking by the minor cross roads above the crag. Although space is limited, parking is seldom a problem. Go through the gate then trend right across the moor (often wet) heading for the wood. Cross a couple of stiles and enter the trees. When you exit the trees the first buttresses are below and to the right.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Battlement Buttress
2 Scotswood Road
-
E4 6a 1
3 Roadside Attraction
-
E2 5c  
4 Boiling Oil
-
E2 5c  
5 Battlement Wall
-
HVS 5a  
6 Rampart Corner
-
S 2
7 Sooty and Sweep
-
E5 6b  
8 Portcullis
-
M 3
9 Turret Chimney
-
M 2
10 Drawbridge Slab
-
D 4
11 Dungeon Gully
-
M 2
12 The Keep
-
M 2
13 The Watch Tower
-
VD 3
  Gardom's North Boulders
15 Leaf Climb f6B * 8
16 Percy's Roof f6C * 4
17 A Tasty Graunch f7A+ 7
18 First Roof Left f6B+ * 391
19 First Roof Middle f6C * 189
20 Wishbone f7B * 43
21 Joint Care f7A+ * 1
22 Remarkable f7A+ * 1
23 Rock End Roll f7A+ * 17
24 Mark's Roof Left-hand f6C+ *** 581
25 Nigel's Roof f7B+ * 42
26 Mark's Roof f7B *** 258
27 Mark's Roof Original V6 ** 259
28 Mark's Roof Direct f7C ** 3
29 Full Circle f7B * 34
30 The Circle of Truth f7B ** 1
31 Dylan's Variant f7A+ * 3
32 Little Arête f6A * 90
33 Seamstress f5 * 63
34 Prowstress f6A+ * 80
35 Ledge Roof f4+ * 55
36 Ledge Crack f4+ * 127
37 Ledge Wall f5+ * 95
38 Ledge Wall Right f4+ * 43
39 West Wall Left f4 53
40 West Wall f5+ ** 141
41 Alcove Nose f6B+ * 49
42 Alcove Nose Sit-start
-
f7B+ 3
43 Alcove Arête f5 51
44 Ben's Bulge f7A+ * 11
45 The Grasper f6C * 49
46 Lunacy f7C ** 2
47 Soft on the G f7B *** 173
48 Full Power f8A ** 16
49 8 Ball f8A+ *** 2
50 Rock Hard Bishop f6B+ * 36
51 Soft Groove f5 * 104
52 Soft Groove Sit-down f6C ** 49
53 Soft Wall f4+ * 48
54 Soft Arête f4+ * 49
55 Soft Ribs f3+ 38
56 Gallstones V8 * 3
57 Kidneystone f7B *** 108
58 Heartland f7C * 6
  *Gardom's Left-Hand*
  Black Wall
61 Black Wall Nothing VS 4c 5
62 Black Wall Route 1 S 4a 19
63 Colin's Route
-
S 4a 9
64 Allen's Route
-
VS 4b 15
65 Black Wall Route 2 VS 5a 15
66 Green Wall
-
E4 6a 1
67 Promise HVS 5a 8
68 Tsetse Fly E1 5c * 19
69 Raging Insomnia E3 6a *  
70 Mickey Finn E6 6b *** 7
71 Narcolepsy HVS 5a 11
72 Black Wall Traverse
-
HVS 5b 1
73 Roofies E5 6b ** 1
74 Sleeping Sickness E3 5c *** 24
75 Good Karma E4 6b  
76 Tower Variation
-
HVD 4a 3
77 Brown Crack S 4a * 90
78 The Rattle HVS 5a 3
79 Diamond Back E2 5c 1
80 North End Girdle
-
HVS 5a 1
  Overhang Buttress
82 Thunder VS 4c 11
83 Four Horsemen E2 5b ** 34
84 Lightning Wall HVS 5a ** 50
85 The Igloo E5 6b * 3
86 Afro f6B ** 40
87 Spanish Fly E7 6c ** 5
88 Vaya Con Dios E2 5c ** 29
89 Overhang Buttress Ordinary VS 4b ** 58
90 Infirmary Groove HS 4b 52
  Moyer's Climb
92 Traction VS 4c * 54
93 Bloc Steno f6C ** 6
94 Gardoms Gate VD * 105
95 Corner Crack D 84
96 Grey Crack VD 89
97 Attraction HVS 5a 23
98 Moyer's Climb S 4a * 149
99 Moyer's Variation S 4b * 105
100 Social Fools E1 5b 11
101 Cobweb Arête/Little Wanda E2 5c 6
102 Nowanda HVS 5a ** 283
103 Landsick E1 5b * 80
104 Landsickness E3 6a ** 46
105 Gain HVD 11
  Garden Face
107 Cave Gully D 70
108 Capstone Climb
-
VD 15
109 Cave Gully Crack HS 4b * 135
110 Chockstone Climb HS 4a 55
111 Garden Face Crack VS 4b * 318
112 Garden Face Direct VS 5a * 228
113 Garden Face Indirect D * 270
114 Gardoms Fence
-
D 13
115 Heather Wall
-
HS 4b 13
116 Small People
-
VS 5b 2
  Och Aye Wall
118 Och Aye Wall Indirect VS 5a * 233
119 Och Aye Wall Direct VS 5b * 167
120 Tartan Route VS 5a * 101
121 Capstone Gully M * 32
122 Nerve Block
-
E5 6a  
123 The Rink
-
E2 5b 2
124 Slime Crack HVS 5a 11
125 Fantasy HVS 5b 8
126 A Dream of White Potamus HVS 5a 2
127 Byne's Crack S 4b ** 46
128 The Working Man
-
E2 5b 2
129 Waggy E7 6c * 4
130 Green Rib
-
E2 5c 5
131 Green Crack
-
HS 4b 17
132 Bad/Angry Fox V5 ** 4
133 Little Arête
-
VS 4c * 30
  Pogle's Wood
135 Pogle's Wood Left-hand f6B * 18
136 Pogle's Wood f6C ** 59
137 Pogle's Wood Sit-start
-
f7B ** 14
138 Princess in her Pinks V1 1
Climb name Grade
  Moyer's Buttress
140 The Gritsone Treaty f7B ** 21
141 Mo's Problem f7A+ *  
142 Cave Arête HVS 5a * 46
143 Stormbringer E3 6a ** 60
144 Monotheism
-
E7 6b *  
145 Moyer's Buttress E1 5b *** 665
146 Imperfect Way
-
E3 5c  
147 Biven's Crack E1 5b ** 129
148 Enigma Variation E3 5c * 13
149 Perfect Day E5 6b *** 35
150 Perfect Day Direct Start f7B *** 52
151 Keith's Corner Crack HS 4b 39
152 Keith's Other Corner Crack
-
VD 9
153 Keith's Arête
-
VD 4a 3
154 Problem Chimney
-
HVD 4a 1
  Elliott's Buttress
156 Pining for the Fjords
-
S 4c 2
157 Mr Three Degrees
-
E2 6a 1
158 Pine Crack
-
S 5a 21
159 Baton Route
-
VD 23
160 Elliott's Buttress Indirect VS 4b ** 109
161 Seventy One White Mice E2 6a * 14
162 The Eye of Faith E1 5c *** 355
163 Rhythmic Itch E1 5b ** 97
164 Elliott's Buttress Direct HS 4b ** 593
165 Evasion HVD 4a 11
  Dead Tree Wall
167 Jungle Arête S 4b 21
168 Dead Tree Wall HS 4b * 47
169 Liar/Pants on FIre
-
VS 5a 10
170 Rumour
-
HVS 5b 5
171 Gossip
-
HVS 5b 4
172 Central Overlap
-
VS 4c 1
173 Right-hand Flake
-
VD 3
174 Flake Chimney
-
M 4
175 Capstone Rib
-
HVS 5b * 4
  Blacksmith's Wall
177 Striker's Rib
-
E1 5c 8
178 Smithy
-
HVD 13
179 Blacksmith's Wall
-
VD 14
180 October Climb
-
HVD 13
181 Spring Route
-
HS 4b 1
  Oread Buttress
183 Nymph's Arête VS 4c 25
184 Oread VS 4c ** 209
185 Yellow Chimney M 21
186 Drum Roll f7A+ * 1
187 Another Green World V8 *  
  Bin Laden's Cave
189 Bin Lillermule f7A+ * 19
190 Bin Laden's Cave f7A *** 138
  *Gardom's Right-Hand*
  Undertaker's Buttress
193 Gemstone
-
HVS 5a 3
194 Milestone
-
S 4a 5
195 Blaze VS 4c * 15
196 Undertaker's Buttress VS 4c ** 211
197 Hearse Arête E1 5b ** 133
198 Coffin Nail
-
HVS 5a 5
199 Rest in Pieces
-
VS 5b * 3
  Marble Wall
201 Route III
-
VD 4
202 Tales of the Black Widower E5 6a * 1
203 Marshall's Route HVS 5a 7
204 White's Route HS 4b 13
205 Birthday Climb HVD 14
206 Pedestal Climb HS 4a * 18
207 Selladore E8 7a **  
208 Nursery Slab HVS 5a 11
209 Nursery Cryme
-
HVD 4a 3
210 Nursery Traverse
-
D 6
  Gardom's Unconquerable
212 Bilberry Buttress VS 5a * 100
213 Bilberry Chimney HVD 4a 4
214 Crottle E1 5b * 34
215 Stepped Crack D * 54
216 Golly
-
V0+ 2
217 Gardom's Unconquerable VS 4c ** 217
218 Whillans' Blind Variant E1 5b * 30
219 Willy
-
V1 1
220 Vallum
-
E3 5c 1
221 Boxing Clever
-
S 4a 3
  Chimney Face
223 Contempt
-
HVD 4a 14
224 The Chimney HVD 6
225 Ball Bearing Wall HS 4b 6
226 Chimney Face
-
HS 4a 17
227 The Backclip
-
HS 4b 2
228 Stern Face
-
S 4b 10
  Tree Buttress
230 Tree Buttress VS 4b 34
231 The Midas Man E3 6a 4
232 Tree Climb HS 4b 31
233 Tree Neighbour S 4a 14
234 Porridge Egg E6 6a * 6
235 Third Time Lucky VS 4c * 33
236 Gom Jabbar E8 6c *  
237 Boon's Wad
-
E2 6a 1
238 By-Pass Route HS 4b 14
239 Central Crack HVS 5b 9
240 Wall Finish VS 4c 2
241 Agadoo E3 6b 1
242 Agadoo Sit-start V5 ** 1
243 Albert Spansworthy E5 6b *  
  Wall Buttress
245 Nah'han E8 6c *** 15
246 Make it Snappy E6 6b *** 26
247 Ecky Thump E6 6c * 1
248 The Crocodile E3 5c ** 107
249 Right-hand Crack VS 4c * 80
250 Gnasher
-
E3 5c  
251 Quandary Wall
-
HVD 4a 12
252 Red Sky Rib VD * 32
253 Split Slab
-
VS 4c 15
254 Chunky Doorstep
-
HVS 5a * 3
  Capillary Crack Buttress
256 Soloman f6A+ 5
257 Squeeze Your Lemon
-
E1 6a 5
258 A Fearful Head
-
V5 1
259 A Fearful Orange f6C+ ** 11
260 Neutral Milk Hotel f6A * 4
261 Two-Headed Boy f6C * 11
262 It's a Gas E1 5c 2
263 Jumping Jack Flash HVS 5b * 2
264 Broken Buttress VD 9
265 Ladder Coins f6B 1
266 Gamorilla HVS 5a 1
267 Capillary Crack VS 4c * 48
268 First Blood
-
V0 1
  Grooved Wall Area
270 Whisky Wall S 3c * 24
271 Muswell Hillbillies E4 5c 1
272 Waterloo Sunset E3 5c *** 91
273 Midgey Meal E3 5c * 2
274 Finale Groove VS 5a * 334
275 Babylon's Finale VS 5a 6
276 Babylon's Groove VS 5a * 111
Climb name Grade
277 Central Groove VS 4b 35
278 Tree Groove VS 4b * 191
279 Tree Groove Direct VS 5a * 32
280 Right-hand Groove VS 4c 16
281 Split Crack VS 4b 5
282 Slanting Groove
-
D 9
  Apple Buttress
284 Layback Crack VS 5a * 179
285 Flake Crack HS 4b * 175
286 Twilight's Last Gleaming E2 5b 3
287 N.M.C. Crack HVD 3c *** 1080
288 Apple Arête Direct E4 5c * 63
289 Apple Arête VS 4b *** 1491
290 Apple Crack VD * 581
291 Apple Core E2 6a 14
292 Cider Apple HS 4a * 284
293 Giant's Staircase S 4a * 290
294 Bitter VS 5a * 539
295 Master of Thought E2 5c * 72
296 Velvet Cracks VS 4b * 561
297 Apple Jack Crack VD * 526
298 Cydrax HVS 5b * 335
299 Cydrax Start f5 * 6
300 Cider HVS 5a * 185
301 Cider Start f4+ * 3
302 Double Bum f6B+ 18
303 Blenheim Gully VS 4c * 26
304 Blenheim Buttress E1 5a 17
305 Blenheim E1 5a * 34
306 Wall and Chimney
-
HVD 2
307 Beaufort
-
HVS 5b 3
308 Three Trees Crack
-
VD 4
309 Orchard E1 5a 5
  The Quarries
311 Ross's Route
-
D 2
312 President's Arête
-
VS 4c * 16
313 All the President's Men E1 5b * 9
314 President's Wall HVS 5a 7
315 President's Wall Direct E2 5b 1
316 Senator's Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
317 Nervous Tension
-
E4 6b  
318 Surface Tension
-
E4 6a  
319 Lost Boy V5 * 3
320 Hide-Away Climb
-
VS 4c 1
321 Dirty Business Left-Hand f6B+ * 2
322 Dirty Business f6B+ ** 9
323 Plan D f7C 4
324 Business as Usual f6C+ ** 13
325 Forward Thinking Sound Engineer f7A+ *  
  Pillar Wall
327 Charlotte Rampling E6 6b ** 13
328 Hired Goons E8 6c * 1
329 Left-hand Pillar Crack E1 5b ** 74
330 Right-hand Pillar Crack HVS 5a ** 47
331 Headless Chicken
-
E1 5c  
332 Elliott's Crack S 4a * 131
333 English Voodoo f6C+ ** 49
334 English Voodoo Sit-start
-
f7A+ ** 18
335 Scout V2  
  *Gardom's South End*
  The Rocky Jumble
338 Sidepull Wall
-
V2 1
339 The Teacup
-
V0- 8
340 The Saucerer
-
V0 6
341 Slob
-
V3 5
342 The Wing
-
V3 3
  The Pit
344 Repetionista f6B 1
345 Pit Fighter
-
V8+ ** 2
346 Dhalsim
-
f8A+ *** 1
  Pathside Boulder
348 Flakeaway f3 1
349 Koudai f4 1
350 Dolly's Rockover f6B 1
351 Peace Path f6C+  
352 Pathologist f6B+ 1
  The Main Area
354 First Slab
-
V0 6
355 First Slab Right
-
S 5
356 Durian
-
S 4c 3
357 Crap'alackin V7 1
358 Arête f6A * 51
359 Wall Past the Flatty f5+ * 59
360 Small Ones are More Juicy f6B 8
361 Tangerine
-
VS 4c * 4
362 Kumquat
-
HS 4c 8
363 Strapadictionary
-
V0- 5
364 Forge Ahead
-
V2 2
365 Scoop Tower
-
V0 12
366 The Mellow Bellow
-
V2 1
367 The Scoop
-
V2 2
368 The Sausage of King Meersbrook f7C+ * 3
369 John Player Special f7A 3
  The Wardrobe
371 Leaning Block
-
M 7
372 Wardrobe Bulge
-
V3 1
373 Captain Cabinets f6B+ * 23
374 Wardrobe Ridge f6A+ * 37
375 Suavito f7B *** 150
376 Escondido f7C * 1
377 Scary Rib
-
V2  
  G-Thang Area
379 Swift Nick V5 1
380 Left Triplet Arête f5 * 17
381 Left Triplet Slab f4+ 21
382 Left Crack
-
V0- 15
383 Middle Triplet Arête f5+ * 15
384 Middle Wall f4+ * 38
385 Middle Triplet Ridge f5+ * 36
386 Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-start V3 * 10
387 The Feasibility Pebble V4 * 1
388 China in Your Hands f7B+ *** 28
389 Barry Sheene f7C ** 10
390 G-Thang f6B+ *** 275
391 G-Thang Sit-start
-
V5 *** 104
392 Stung Left-hand V1 10
393 Stung f5+ 41
394 The Sting f5+ * 37
  Moorside Rocks
396 Short Arête f6B * 36
397 Right Arête f6C * 9
398 Choked Chimney VD 4b 47
399 Charlotte Dumpling f6B * 22
400 Will's Dyno f8A ** 1
401 Superbloc f8A+ *** 1
402 Straight Chimney HVD 4a * 27
403 Batter Patter f6C+ * 3
404 Homeless E8 6c *  
405 Brazil E6 6b * 1
406 Brazil Start f6C * 3
407 Moorside Crack VS 5a * 12
408 Press Gang E3 5c 2
409 Moorside Rib VS 5a * 29
410 The Jackalope f7A *** 37
411 Small Worlds E3 6a 2
412 Pillar Chimney D 21
413 Moorside Rocks Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b 1

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