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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 390
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

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sam leading trad! © mwatson

Crag features

Named after a blacksmith from the Chatsworth Estate, Gardom's is a neglected edge; except for the area around Apple Buttress it is unusual to see another team here. The classic Moyer's Buttress tops the hit list for visitors though and there are plenty of worthwhile offerings spread along the edge. Those who are prepared to pick and choose will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. Gardom's has a quartet of fine routes in the E3 grade with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset offering a great day out for a suitably talented team. Travelling along the cliff base is tortuous in many areas, returning to the cliff top is often the best option when moving between buttresses. The neglected air of the cliff tends to add to the appeal for many some, making a nice change from the circus atmosphere at more popular venues.

Approach notes

The crag is hidden above the main A621 Sheffield to Baslow road. There is roadside parking by the minor cross roads above the crag. Although space is limited, parking is seldom a problem. Go through the gate then trend right across the moor (often wet) heading for the wood. Cross a couple of stiles and enter the trees. When you exit the trees the first buttresses are below and to the right.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Battlement Buttress
2 Scotswood Road
-
E4 6a 1
3 Roadside Attraction
-
E2 5c  
4 Boiling Oil
-
E2 5c  
5 Battlement Wall
-
HVS 5a  
6 Rampart Corner
-
S 2
7 Sooty and Sweep
-
E5 6b  
8 Portcullis
-
M 3
9 Turret Chimney
-
M 2
10 Drawbridge Slab
-
D 4
11 Dungeon Gully
-
M 2
12 The Keep
-
M 2
13 The Watch Tower
-
VD 3
  Gardom's North Boulders
15 Leaf Climb f6B * 9
16 Percy's Roof f6C * 6
17 A Tasty Graunch f7A+ 8
18 First Roof Left f6B+ * 425
19 First Roof Middle f6C * 211
20 Wishbone f7B * 51
21 Joint Care f7A+ * 1
22 Remarkable f7A+ * 1
23 Rock End Roll f7A+ * 17
24 Mark's Roof Left-hand f6C+ *** 609
25 Nigel's Roof f7B+ * 48
26 Mark's Roof f7B *** 276
27 Mark's Roof Original V6 ** 273
28 Mark's Roof Direct f7C ** 4
29 Full Circle f7B * 35
30 The Circle of Truth f7B ** 2
31 Dylan's Variant f7A+ * 3
32 Little Arête f6A * 103
33 Seamstress f5 * 67
34 Prowstress f6A+ * 82
35 Ledge Roof f4+ * 58
36 Ledge Crack f4+ * 132
37 Ledge Wall f5+ * 103
38 Ledge Wall Right f4+ * 49
39 West Wall Left f4 58
40 West Wall f5+ ** 149
41 Alcove Nose f6B+ * 51
42 Alcove Nose Sit-start
-
f7B+ 4
43 Alcove Arête f5 52
44 Ben's Bulge f7A+ * 12
45 The Grasper f6C * 50
46 Lunacy f7C ** 2
47 Soft on the G f7B *** 186
48 Full Power f8A ** 19
49 8 Ball f8A+ *** 2
50 Rock Hard Bishop f6B+ * 38
51 Soft Groove f5 * 117
52 Soft Groove Sit-down f6C ** 58
53 Soft Wall f4+ * 56
54 Soft Arête f4+ * 54
55 Soft Ribs f3+ 41
56 Gallstones V8 * 3
57 Kidneystone f7B *** 129
58 Heartland f7C * 6
59 Kidneystand * VE **  
60 Kidneystand * f6B+ ** 3
  *Gardom's Left-Hand*
  Black Wall
63 Black Wall Nothing VS 4c 5
64 Black Wall Route 1 S 4a 19
65 Colin's Route
-
S 4a 9
66 Allen's Route
-
VS 4b 15
67 Black Wall Route 2 VS 5a 15
68 Green Wall
-
E4 6a 1
69 Promise HVS 5a 8
70 Tsetse Fly E1 5c * 19
71 Raging Insomnia E3 6a *  
72 Mickey Finn E6 6b *** 10
73 Narcolepsy HVS 5a 12
74 Black Wall Traverse
-
HVS 5b 1
75 Roofies E5 6b ** 1
76 Sleeping Sickness E3 5c *** 25
77 Good Karma E4 6b  
78 Tower Variation
-
HVD 4a 3
79 Brown Crack S 4a * 91
80 The Rattle HVS 5a 3
81 Diamond Back E2 5c 1
82 North End Girdle
-
HVS 5a 1
83 Gurning Lark Sunset * f7A+ ** 1
  Overhang Buttress
85 Thunder VS 4c 11
86 Four Horsemen E2 5b ** 34
87 Lightning Wall HVS 5a ** 50
88 The Igloo E5 6b * 3
89 Afro f6B ** 49
90 Spanish Fly E7 6c ** 5
91 Vaya Con Dios E2 5c ** 29
92 Overhang Buttress Ordinary VS 4b ** 58
93 Infirmary Groove HS 4b 52
94 Eskimo Kiss * E7 6c * 1
  Moyer's Climb
96 Traction VS 4c * 55
97 Bloc Steno f6C ** 11
98 Gardoms Gate VD * 105
99 Corner Crack D 84
100 Grey Crack VD 89
101 Attraction HVS 5a 23
102 Moyer's Climb S 4a * 149
103 Moyer's Variation S 4b * 104
104 Social Fools E1 5b 12
105 Cobweb Arête/Little Wanda E2 5c 6
106 Nowanda HVS 5a ** 285
107 Landsick E1 5b * 80
108 Landsickness E3 6a ** 47
109 Gain HVD 11
  Garden Face
111 Cave Gully D 70
112 Capstone Climb
-
VD 15
113 Cave Gully Crack HS 4b * 136
114 Chockstone Climb HS 4a 55
115 Garden Face Crack VS 4b * 320
116 Garden Face Direct VS 5a * 230
117 Garden Face Indirect D * 271
118 Gardoms Fence
-
D 13
119 Heather Wall
-
HS 4b 14
120 Small People
-
VS 5b 2
  Och Aye Wall
122 Och Aye Wall Indirect VS 5a * 234
123 Och Aye Wall Direct VS 5b * 169
124 Tartan Route VS 5a * 103
125 Capstone Gully M * 31
126 Nerve Block
-
E5 6a  
127 The Rink
-
E2 5b 2
128 Slime Crack HVS 5a 11
129 Fantasy HVS 5b 8
130 A Dream of White Potamus HVS 5a 2
131 Byne's Crack S 4b ** 46
132 The Working Man
-
E2 5b 2
133 Waggy E7 6c * 4
134 Green Rib
-
E2 5c 5
135 Green Crack
-
HS 4b 17
136 Bad/Angry Fox V5 ** 6
137 Little Arête
-
VS 4c * 32
138 Green Speed * f6C+ * 2
139 Underbite * f7A+ * 2
140 Underbite SS * f7B * 1
  Pogle's Wood
142 Pogle's Wood Left-hand f6B * 21
Climb name Grade
143 Pogle's Wood f6C ** 62
144 Pogle's Wood Sit-start
-
f7B ** 17
145 Princess in her Pinks V1 1
  Moyer's Buttress
147 The Gritsone Treaty f7B ** 25
148 Mo's Problem f7A+ *  
149 Cave Arête HVS 5a * 47
150 Stormbringer E3 6a ** 61
151 Monotheism
-
E7 6b *  
152 Moyer's Buttress E1 5b *** 678
153 Imperfect Way
-
E3 5c  
154 Biven's Crack E1 5b ** 131
155 Enigma Variation E3 5c * 14
156 Perfect Day E5 6b *** 36
157 Perfect Day Direct Start f7B *** 58
158 Keith's Corner Crack HS 4b 39
159 Keith's Other Corner Crack
-
VD 9
160 Keith's Arête
-
VD 4a 3
161 Problem Chimney
-
HVD 4a 1
  Elliott's Buttress
163 Pining for the Fjords
-
S 4c 2
164 Mr Three Degrees
-
E2 6a 1
165 Pine Crack
-
S 5a 21
166 Baton Route
-
VD 23
167 Elliott's Buttress Indirect VS 4b ** 113
168 Seventy One White Mice E2 6a * 14
169 The Eye of Faith E1 5c *** 358
170 Rhythmic Itch E1 5b ** 100
171 Elliott's Buttress Direct HS 4b ** 604
172 Evasion HVD 4a 11
  Dead Tree Wall
174 Jungle Arête S 4b 21
175 Dead Tree Wall HS 4b * 47
176 Liar/Pants on FIre
-
VS 5a 10
177 Rumour
-
HVS 5b 5
178 Gossip
-
HVS 5b 4
179 Central Overlap
-
VS 4c 1
180 Right-hand Flake
-
VD 3
181 Flake Chimney
-
M 4
182 Capstone Rib
-
HVS 5b * 4
  Blacksmith's Wall
184 Striker's Rib
-
E1 5c 8
185 Smithy
-
HVD 13
186 Blacksmith's Wall
-
VD 14
187 October Climb
-
HVD 13
188 Spring Route
-
HS 4b 1
  Oread Buttress
190 Nymph's Arête VS 4c 25
191 Oread VS 4c ** 212
192 Yellow Chimney M 21
193 Drum Roll f7A+ * 1
194 Another Green World V8 *  
  Bin Laden's Cave
196 Bin Lillermule f7A+ * 25
197 Bin Laden's Cave f7A *** 152
  *Gardom's Right-Hand*
  Undertaker's Buttress
200 Gemstone
-
HVS 5a 3
201 Milestone
-
S 4a 5
202 Blaze VS 4c * 15
203 Undertaker's Buttress VS 4c ** 213
204 Hearse Arête E1 5b ** 138
205 Coffin Nail
-
HVS 5a 5
206 Rest in Pieces
-
VS 5b * 3
  Marble Wall
208 Route III
-
VD 4
209 Tales of the Black Widower E5 6a * 1
210 Marshall's Route HVS 5a 7
211 White's Route HS 4b 13
212 Birthday Climb HVD 14
213 Pedestal Climb HS 4a * 18
214 Selladore E8 7a **  
215 Nursery Slab HVS 5a 11
216 Nursery Cryme
-
HVD 4a 3
217 Nursery Traverse
-
D 6
  Gardom's Unconquerable
219 Bilberry Buttress VS 5a * 101
220 Bilberry Chimney HVD 4a 4
221 Crottle E1 5b * 34
222 Stepped Crack D * 54
223 Golly
-
V0+ 2
224 Gardom's Unconquerable VS 4c ** 220
225 Whillans' Blind Variant E1 5b * 30
226 Willy
-
V1 1
227 Vallum
-
E3 5c 1
228 Boxing Clever
-
S 4a 3
229 Flight of the Bumblebee * f7A * 2
  Chimney Face
231 Contempt
-
HVD 4a 14
232 The Chimney HVD 5
233 Ball Bearing Wall HS 4b 6
234 Chimney Face
-
HS 4a 17
235 The Backclip
-
HS 4b 2
236 Stern Face
-
S 4b 10
  Tree Buttress
238 Tree Buttress VS 4b 34
239 The Midas Man E3 6a 4
240 Tree Climb HS 4b 31
241 Tree Neighbour S 4a 14
242 Porridge Egg E6 6a * 6
243 Third Time Lucky VS 4c * 33
244 Gom Jabbar E8 6c *  
245 Boon's Wad
-
E2 6a 1
246 By-Pass Route HS 4b 14
247 Central Crack HVS 5b 9
248 Wall Finish VS 4c 2
249 Agadoo E3 6b 1
250 Agadoo Sit-start V5 ** 1
251 Albert Spansworthy E5 6b *  
252 Over the Hill * V9 * 1
  Wall Buttress
254 Nah'han E8 6c *** 16
255 Make it Snappy E6 6b *** 30
256 Ecky Thump E6 6c * 1
257 The Crocodile E3 5c ** 113
258 Right-hand Crack VS 4c * 82
259 Gnasher
-
E3 5c  
260 Quandary Wall
-
HVD 4a 13
261 Red Sky Rib VD * 32
262 Split Slab
-
VS 4c 15
263 Chunky Doorstep
-
HVS 5a * 3
264 Bi-ology * f6A+ 1
  Capillary Crack Buttress
266 Soloman f6A+ 7
267 Squeeze Your Lemon
-
E1 6a 5
268 A Fearful Head
-
V5 1
269 A Fearful Orange f6C+ ** 11
270 Neutral Milk Hotel f6A * 6
271 Two-Headed Boy f6C * 11
272 It's a Gas E1 5c 2
273 Jumping Jack Flash HVS 5b * 2
274 Broken Buttress VD 9
275 Ladder Coins f6B 1
276 Gamorilla HVS 5a 1
277 Capillary Crack VS 4c * 48
278 First Blood
-
V0 1
  Grooved Wall Area
280 Whisky Wall S 3c * 24
281 Muswell Hillbillies E4 5c 2
282 Waterloo Sunset E3 5c *** 93
283 Midgey Meal E3 5c * 2
284 Finale Groove VS 5a * 336
Climb name Grade
285 Babylon's Finale VS 5a 6
286 Babylon's Groove VS 5a * 113
287 Central Groove VS 4b 35
288 Tree Groove VS 4b * 192
289 Tree Groove Direct VS 5a * 32
290 Right-hand Groove VS 4c 16
291 Split Crack VS 4b 5
292 Slanting Groove
-
D 9
  Apple Buttress
294 Layback Crack VS 5a * 182
295 Flake Crack HS 4b * 176
296 Twilight's Last Gleaming E2 5b 3
297 N.M.C. Crack HVD 3c *** 1090
298 Apple Arête Direct E4 5c * 64
299 Apple Arête VS 4b *** 1511
300 Apple Crack VD * 587
301 Apple Core E2 6a 14
302 Cider Apple HS 4a * 285
303 Giant's Staircase S 4a * 290
304 Bitter VS 5a * 545
305 Master of Thought E2 5c * 73
306 Velvet Cracks VS 4b * 566
307 Apple Jack Crack VD * 532
308 Cydrax HVS 5b * 342
309 Cydrax Start f5 * 9
310 Cider HVS 5a * 190
311 Cider Start f4+ * 4
312 Double Bum f6B+ 18
313 Blenheim Gully VS 4c * 26
314 Blenheim Buttress E1 5a 17
315 Blenheim E1 5a * 34
316 Wall and Chimney
-
HVD 2
317 Beaufort
-
HVS 5b 3
318 Three Trees Crack
-
VD 4
319 Orchard E1 5a 5
  The Quarries
321 Ross's Route
-
D 2
322 President's Arête
-
VS 4c * 16
323 All the President's Men E1 5b * 9
324 President's Wall HVS 5a 7
325 President's Wall Direct E2 5b 1
326 Senator's Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
327 Nervous Tension
-
E4 6b  
328 Surface Tension
-
E4 6a  
329 Lost Boy V5 * 3
330 Hide-Away Climb
-
VS 4c 1
331 Dirty Business Left-Hand f6B+ * 2
332 Dirty Business f6B+ ** 9
333 Plan D f7C 4
334 Business as Usual f6C+ ** 13
335 Forward Thinking Sound Engineer f7A+ *  
  Pillar Wall
337 Charlotte Rampling E6 6b ** 13
338 Hired Goons E8 6c * 1
339 Left-hand Pillar Crack E1 5b ** 74
340 Right-hand Pillar Crack HVS 5a ** 47
341 Headless Chicken
-
E1 5c  
342 Elliott's Crack S 4a * 134
343 English Voodoo f6C+ ** 51
344 English Voodoo Sit-start
-
f7A+ ** 18
345 Scout V2  
  *Gardom's South End*
  The Rocky Jumble
348 Sidepull Wall
-
V2 1
349 The Teacup
-
V0- 8
350 The Saucerer
-
V0 6
351 Slob
-
V3 5
352 The Wing
-
V3 3
  The Pit
354 Repetionista f6B 1
355 Pit Fighter
-
V8+ ** 3
356 Dhalsim
-
f8A+ *** 1
  Pathside Boulder
358 Flakeaway f3 1
359 Koudai f4 1
360 Dolly's Rockover f6B 1
361 Peace Path f6C+  
362 Pathologist f6B+ 1
  The Main Area
364 First Slab
-
V0 6
365 First Slab Right
-
S 5
366 Durian
-
S 4c 3
367 Crap'alackin V7 1
368 Arête f6A * 52
369 Wall Past the Flatty f5+ * 59
370 Small Ones are More Juicy f6B 8
371 Tangerine
-
VS 4c * 5
372 Kumquat
-
HS 4c 8
373 Strapadictionary
-
V0- 5
374 Forge Ahead
-
V2 2
375 Scoop Tower
-
V0 12
376 The Mellow Bellow
-
V2 1
377 The Scoop
-
V2 2
378 The Sausage of King Meersbrook f7C+ * 3
379 John Player Special f7A 3
  The Wardrobe
381 Leaning Block
-
M 7
382 Wardrobe Bulge
-
V3 1
383 Captain Cabinets f6B+ * 23
384 Wardrobe Ridge f6A+ * 38
385 Suavito f7B *** 158
386 Escondido f7C * 1
387 Scary Rib
-
V2  
  G-Thang Area
389 Swift Nick V5 1
390 Left Triplet Arête f5 * 20
391 Left Triplet Slab f4+ 24
392 Left Crack
-
V0- 16
393 Middle Triplet Arête f5+ * 18
394 Middle Wall f4+ * 45
395 Middle Triplet Ridge f5+ * 44
396 Middle Triplet Ridge Sit-start V3 * 11
397 The Feasibility Pebble V4 * 1
398 China in Your Hands f7B+ *** 35
399 Barry Sheene f7C ** 12
400 G-Thang f6B+ *** 295
401 G-Thang Sit-start
-
V5 *** 112
402 Stung Left-hand V1 10
403 Stung f5+ 43
404 The Sting f5+ * 38
  Moorside Rocks
406 Short Arête f6B * 39
407 Right Arête f6C * 10
408 Choked Chimney VD 4b 47
409 Charlotte Dumpling f6B * 23
410 Will's Dyno f8A ** 1
411 Superbloc f8A+ *** 4
412 Straight Chimney HVD 4a * 27
413 Batter Patter f6C+ * 3
414 Homeless E8 6c *  
415 Brazil E6 6b * 1
416 Brazil Start f6C * 3
417 Moorside Crack VS 5a * 12
418 Press Gang E3 5c 2
419 Moorside Rib VS 5a * 29
420 The Jackalope f7A *** 43
421 Small Worlds E3 6a 2
422 Pillar Chimney D 21
423 Moorside Rocks Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b 1
424 Chunky Vision * f7A+ 3
425 2020 Vision * f8A * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83