Rockfax Description
The oddly-named first crack in the face. The crux requires some beefy pinch-gripping then things ease. Large cams help. © Rockfax

FA. David Penlington 1951

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500.

Bob M 17/Oct Lead
with Nick Foot
StevieLee 08/Jul Lead O/S
eastonator 08/Jul Lead dog

Fell from crux almost to ground. Made it to the top on second time of asking, just...

with Simon Gale
SuperLee1985 08/Jul 2nd O/S

Good lead from Steve. Pretty steep and strenuous, definitely didn't deploy as much technique as I should have.

iainsmccrea 02/Jul Lead dnf

DNF - Ground fall at crux, cam didn't hold! Burst down gilet, broken ankle?

smoreda 18/Jun 2nd
alaster tonge 28/May Lead G/U

And back down to get some bigger cams

with Assad Lahlou
Hidden 24/May 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 11/May Solo rpt
with The Famous Grouse
Lessworkmoreclimbing 02/May 2nd
with Kev
Hidden 28/Apr -
Phil West 23/Apr 2nd O/S
with Chris Tan
Paul Baxter 09/Apr Lead rpt

Came back to get the lead. Still good

with james 'pyjamas'
SophieAStanley 08/Apr TR dog
with Leo
Naomi.P 08/Apr 2nd

Hard work even seconding.

with Leo H
leopolian 08/Apr Lead


Droyd 26/Mar Lead O/S

Moist in parts but surprisingly good

with Jimmy
Hidden 26/Mar Lead O/S
thejunglist 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Timmy G
Hidden 21/Aug/16 Lead
chrisdjackson 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with John
john lynch 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
emc110502 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
TimCul 08/May/16 Lead
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May/16 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 05/May/16 2nd O/S
with Chris Hindley
Andy Moles 05/May/16 Solo
MYox 05/May/16 -

Good, fun climbing.

with Jon
Markheighton 03/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/16 Lead
Flavio 22/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Jonny Holmes 02/Apr/16 AltLd
with David Jackson
Eddie Shelbourne 10/Oct/15 Lead
with cheque
John Brayshaw 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
bantamdave 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Nigel
philmitch 06/Sep/15 TR O/S
adam clarke 17/Jul/15 Lead dog

One fall; pumped out trying to reposition hurriedly placed cam. Disappointing as nice route with nice moves

with Adam Lynch
Andrew Sloan 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Tony Holdsworth
Tony Holdsworth 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Andy Sloan
Paul Baxter 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Nipped up to remove 'stuck' hex. Nice and smooth if you can jam, and look around you.

wyzfen 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Julien, Paul Baxter
BnB 05/Jun/15 -
amccann 04/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Manc88 17/May/15 Lead O/S

Green and pumpy (possible end of day feel). Big gear useful towards the top.

Hidden 16/May/15 Lead β
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
alp79 16/May/15 Lead dnf

Had a go but couldn't do crux, sam led and I seconded. Need to come back and do it properly.

with Sam Fletcher
Felix Ottey 18/Apr/15 2nd β
Kirill 11/Apr/15 2nd rpt
cem 11/Apr/15 Lead rpt
pimpy 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Kirill, Pete A
Kirill 07/Mar/15 2nd rpt
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
TobyA 25/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Jody
Jody 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with TobyA
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Nick1812P 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with Jasmine, Kamil
cragtyke 03/Aug/14 Lead
with john g
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd
Mike Soulby 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Ali Mortazavi 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Mike, Rita
Hidden 26/Jul/14 TR dog
john_ni 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
stevelismore 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with John PCC
Hoyes 01/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Jules L
Jules Lane 01/Jul/14 Lead dog

Nice route with great gear where it matters. Lucky as I got pumped below the crux and had to rest. Then got up it 2nd go in very poor style due to poor footwork. Must do better.

Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
hotfeet 05/May/14 Lead
with James
ClareSenny 05/May/14 2nd
GLO 04/May/14 Lead dog

Quick rest on gear...nearly!

with Keith P
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
eduardo 03/May/14 Lead rpt
farmerwad 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Mark
markfairbank 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Phil Wadsworth
mol 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Jesse
Hidden 16/Apr/14 2nd
riddle 12/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Tom Elliot
david harvey ?/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with martin
martinbettridge06 ?/Mar/14 Lead
masa-alpin 11/Aug/13 2nd β
Pixie-Andy 11/Aug/13 Lead
with Masa
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
James Oakes 14/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Tala A 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
DeanD 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
dsh 01/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Ellen Woods
Reds 06/May/13 2nd O/S
schristophersmith 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
althesin 06/May/13 Lead O/S
giuly 06/May/13 2nd
with Neil Shephard, Chris Saunders
Hidden 05/May/13 TR
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
Ramblin dave 13/Apr/13 Lead

First VS!

with Paul B
Paul Baxter 13/Apr/13 Lead
with Charles
cem 13/Apr/13 2nd rpt

Good lead by Dave

AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Hidden 09/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/12 Lead O/S
davemcummings 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Tricky crux move at half way point. Managed to reach right up and grab finger jug.

with Des
ashtond6 02/Sep/12 Lead

hangover climbing urghhh but pinches wow !

Jake Young 02/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Dan Vaj 05/Aug/12 Lead dnf
with Jonathon Clark
Hidden 14/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd
Barry D 22/May/12 Lead
with Juan
Batt 22/May/12 Lead O/S
Juan Ruiz 22/May/12 2nd
Andy Hardy 22/May/12 Lead O/S
Hoyes 22/May/12 2nd O/S
sopaz 12/May/12 2nd
olllie26 06/May/12 2nd β
with Gary, Carlos
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Ian JL 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/2012 Lead rpt
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Matt JM Stevens 26/Dec/11 2nd

Such a stupidly awkward route!

Nordie_matt 26/Dec/11 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
andyjirvin 07/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Good route! Some unusual holds and moves - various combinations of bridging, jamming, pinching and crimping. Possibly more than one 5a move. Good lead by Mark.

Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd
GermanAlex 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

proper workout for the arms, this one

with Stu, Robby
charley 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S

As the guidebook said "on jams, pinches and layaways" - it didn't lie...

with Clare
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd
Calder 02/Sep/11 2nd
with Mike B
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead β
wishicud climbHVS 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing throughout. No surprises on good pro.

bigdan050 28/Jul/11 2nd
with ash green, Tosh
The Reaper 24/Jul/11 Lead
Andrew Sloan 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Steve Grove
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Solo O/S
jon_gill1 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/11 2nd O/S
petellis 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Felt hard and runout.

Jim Brownlow 28/May/11 Lead dnf

Fell off at crux, cam popped out. Luckily lower cam held. Ended up with my head six inches off the ground and unhurt. Still shaken!

with Sarah Marks
Mike_Hayes 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
Steven Andrews 15/May/11 2nd O/S
with Ben, Rachel Berkowitz
Jim Malo 14/May/11 2nd O/S
Mikael 14/May/11 Lead
geddicakes 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with James Restorick
THardSevere 23/Apr/11 Lead dnf

found it very tricky and strenuous for the grade. Had a cam rip when I fell just at the crux and hit my belayer. I was fine but a bit scared. didn't like it.

with emily moore
ajc 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
jon22 16/Apr/11 Lead
hang_about 09/Apr/11 2nd dog
pete1993 02/Apr/11 Lead
Brannock 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead
cem 06/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd
chrisallan 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
RalphC 25/Sep/10 2nd
with Ali
andrea83 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Good. Quite tricky for the grade.

with Saffra
Scott McRae 04/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Good moves all the way

fatbuoybazza 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
wildrover220 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Royston Smith
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 15/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
dickie01 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Briggs
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
John Pickles 25/May/10 Lead O/S
with Kieran Hodgson
Hidden 23/May/10 2nd
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
petegruf 22/May/10 2nd O/S
with brad j
jon bradley 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with Huw Howells
Shauna 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Jules
JulesV 28/Apr/10 2nd
with Shauna Cunningham
max_chan 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Lou
Monkey_Alan 18/Apr/10 2nd
with Cat Tabbner, Max Streeton
migs493 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with LO
Hidden 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
JHiley 21/Mar/10 2nd
Oliver Houston 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2010 -
lithos 04/Oct/09 Lead
with cookie
gethin_allen 15/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Found it quite strenuous because i'm really unfit at the moment. haven't a clue what this beefy pinch thing is all about.

with Pete V
Rob Davies 29/Aug/09 Lead
with Phil Ashton
AsleepOnBelay 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Excellent fun, hard vs for me. Felt fine and wondered what the "beefy pinch" fuss was, and then found out! Surprisingly strenuous.

with Sarah Davis
barrylong 11/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Karl PCC
Karlos 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Random
Rampikino 31/May/09 Lead
with Cat and Shirley
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
mark20 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S


keith leonard ??/2009 -
skittles 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Hext
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd
bridget143 23/Jun/08 2nd RP
with Brown
Brown 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Bridget
Kirill 22/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Paul Bolton, Lara
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S
cem 22/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Mark O'Neill
bob3141 14/Jun/08 2nd
Jesse Dufton 14/Jun/08 Lead
with bob3141
Hidden 25/May/08 2nd
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Apr/08 Solo O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 03/Nov/07 2nd β
Hidden 01/Nov/07 Lead
MeMeMe 07/Oct/07 2nd
with Nick and Andy
russonly 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with JonH
MD 16/Sep/07 2nd
with Misha
Ropeboy 09/Sep/07 Solo
jonka ?/Aug/07 Lead
with sean
Pilch 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Good route, well protected with cams, committing moves and steep

with Graham
EdShep 03/Jun/07 2nd O/S

not too strenuous? I got to get out more!

with Pilch
Budge 12/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates, Martin Gillie
climbingpixie 08/Apr/07 2nd

Fantastic route, lots of gear and not too strenuous. Pinches and jamming all the way up. I wish I'd led it.

with James
peter myers ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Rebecca Coles
gazfellows ?/Apr/07 2nd
steve taylor ??/2007 -
Pete Horn ??/2007 Lead
with Mark
Stig 02/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
John Lisle ??/2006 -
cem 10/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Natasha Geere
Hidden 18/Mar/05 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jul/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/04 2nd
chrishedgehog 23/Apr/04 -
with Erwin Bottomley
Hidden 05/Oct/03 2nd O/S
Mark Stevenson 20/Apr/02 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
mikej 14/May/00 2nd
with Nick Salmon
John Marsland 09/Apr/00 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/00 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/99 2nd O/S
lost.arrow 11/Jul/99 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Nigel Coe ??/1999 Lead
with Ian Smith
rlrs ??/1999 Lead
DafSWMC ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/98 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 08/Feb/98 2nd
with Pete Kirkham
Hidden 05/Oct/97 Solo
craig h 02/Feb/97 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Hidden 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Nov/95 Lead
with Alan Nuttall
Iain Thow 26/Aug/95 Lead
with Rosy Wright
Hidden 14/Aug/95 Lead
Yourlead 12/Jun/95 2nd
with Graham Penny
andrewbooth1000 07/May/95 2nd
with Ed Lewis
colin milton 04/May/95 Lead
with eric milton
Hidden 26/Feb/95 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Roget 27/Jun/92 Solo rpt
Roget 14/Jun/92 2nd O/S
with Jonathan T
Laramadness 30/Jun/91 2nd
Stoney Boy 30/Mar/91 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
babymoac 26/May/90 Lead
with Graeme
Raggar 06/May/90 Lead
with Steve B
Andy Say 25/Nov/89 Solo

I'd led it in the dim and distant..

Martin Bennett 26/Apr/87 -
with JD
Hidden ?/Jul/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 -
Hidden 26/Oct/85 2nd
Nigel Bond 31/Mar/85 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
malc 03/Jun/84 2nd
mark-abz 18/Aug/83 TR
Mark Kemball 08/Jan/83 Solo
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Feb/81 2nd
with Tony Welsh
Hidden 09/Sep/79 Lead
Nigel Bond 02/Jul/79 Lead
with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby
Hidden 24/Aug/75 Lead
RichardMc 06/Jul/75 Lead
with Les Gillot, Ken Salter, Betty Seifert
Dave Musgrove 08/Oct/72 -
mikej 26/Jan/69 2nd
with Wil Hurford
mikej 06/Oct/68 2nd
with Ian Clayton
mikej 18/Feb/67 Lead
with Nigel Sumner
mikej 09/Oct/66 TR
with Keith Gregson
mikej 08/May/66 2nd dnf
with Keith Gregson
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 58
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set