Rockfax Description
Often started via Sail Buttress, the direct start up the thin crack left of Sail Chimney improves the overall experience. Climb the crack, move left to the ledge then step up and right again to reach a good flake. Climb through the bulge by a bold high step to reach the upper slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Now back to HVS.

FA. Len Millsom 1963

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

jamiev 19/Nov/17 2nd β
with Simon Dale
jameslomax 19/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Pulled some funny moves through the crux which I'm pretty sure were very wrong having now seen others do it differently

with Nil, Omar Shah
AbigailCranfield 29/Oct/17 TR β
tsl42 28/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Chickened out, and then scampered up sail buttress.

tom_lewis89 24/Sep/17 2nd

Move isn't too bad if you trust there are some holds hiding for you

timreynolds 23/Sep/17 TR O/S

Direct start. Led to crux - put gear in crucial handhold - Duh!

with Ben Stainfield
LDJ 23/Sep/17 Lead
with Dave Coley
ssutton 22/Sep/17 Lead
with Ruth
Mark Duncan 06/Sep/17 Lead rpt

Repeat. Forgot the cam that fits into the pocket nicely, so had to reverse and fetch it!

with Darya
tprebs 03/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Krsoderstrom ?/Sep/17 2nd dog
timrooker 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Carla
CarlaJG 20/Aug/17 2nd
soph 19/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Shamina
Duncan Zerafa 13/Aug/17 2nd


with Nils Elgar, Andy Pierce
amccann 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Tilly
matildascott111 12/Aug/17 2nd
with amccann
Mark Duncan 10/Aug/17 AltLd β

Tried climbing this a couple of years ago after I'd recently broken a toe, had to back off as couldn't rock over left. Felt fine today, not sure where the 5b move was, felt pretty steady.

Olli-C 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Lucy Waite
loonylovegood93 15/Jul/17 2nd dog
mrethan6000 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S
tonto169 01/Jul/17 Lead
Lukem6 25/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Aidie
Hidden 24/Jun/17 -
Manc88 20/Jun/17 Lead O/S
eb202 20/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Manc88
Cheeks 04/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Mark Murphy
Hidden 04/Jun/17 2nd
alanblyth 04/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with CarlN
Oscar Popels 03/Jun/17 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
JoeFoster59 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S

The little crack start as described in 2016 eastern grit definitely makes it HVS. Cool mantel from it onto the ledge then a hilarious cam to protect the crux. Very cool move moving onto the slab. My style of climbing really good.

with Oscar
Hidden 28/May/17 2nd
mrphilipoldham 02/May/17 Lead O/S

Delighted to get this one. No gear in the flake was even attempted, just whatever was below it. Good balancey move above.

alanblyth 02/May/17 2nd O/S
Tommy_shaw 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Andy Hardy 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Droyd 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Henry told me to take micro cams but they were useless - ended up with a dodgy 00 dragon on three lobes in the flake, as nothing else wanted to go in. The move seemed relatively easy though, so I reckon more like E1 5a.

with Lucy, Henry
James Oakes 04/Apr/17 Solo O/S
with Dan Middleton, Georgia Townend
Hidden 01/Apr/17 Lead
southern_smit 01/Apr/17 Lead
Lilla Horvath 01/Apr/17 2nd dog
with Will
garethb 27/Mar/17 2nd dog
with cheque
Hidden 27/Mar/17 Lead rpt
onlyfoddington 11/Mar/17 2nd O/S


with Michael, Ian
ian d f 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
Mr Wild 08/Mar/17 Lead O/S
jcdavy 04/Mar/17 2nd O/S
with Nathan
Garnham 04/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Good route, did it via the proper start. Found moving of the large flake quite reachy

with jcdavy
Hidden ?/Mar/17 Lead O/S
gtaylor997 05/Feb/17 Lead RP
adi bryant 29/Dec/16 2nd β
with Sam
Hidden 24/Dec/16 Lead G/U
Andy Moles 27/Oct/16 Solo
Mike W 24/Oct/16 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 24/Oct/16 Lead rpt

On mikes gear

with Mike W
MusicalMountaineer 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Nice route. Not too tough at the grade.

Dino Dave 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Jim blackford 09/Oct/16 2nd β
sheelba 08/Oct/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't make the reach

with Naomi
peg 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Dale Comley 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Daveyc86 13/Aug/16 2nd
csd23 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S
NeilHowarth 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
jungle 06/Aug/16 2nd dog
with Paul Mcarthy
steve-grigg 31/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 24/Jul/16 Lead
George Killaspy 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Rob Hopes
Robohoppy91 23/Jul/16 Lead G/U
Hidden 13/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
esuddes 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Henry, Hastie
Jim Slater 22/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Maia
Hidden 22/Jun/16 2nd dog
josefft 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Arjun Menon
GeorgiePorgie1 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Kind of a semi-lead as Rob installed all the gear up until he backed off the bold high step over the bulge so I climbed on his gear and finished the route. Good adrenaline rush at the end.

with Rob
robsway 08/Jun/16 2nd RP
Mike505 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Marie45 14/May/16 2nd O/S
MatthewH 07/May/16 2nd O/S
with Alex Greeney
MikeyP 03/May/16 Lead
Dan Vaj 01/May/16 TR O/S
CRead 17/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Fell at the crux first time, restarted and got it.

with Matt Arnold, Tom Drysdale, Matilda Scott
tom_drysdale 17/Apr/16 2nd β
matildascott111 17/Apr/16 2nd
Naomi.P 10/Apr/16 2nd

Seconded. Balancy but fun!

with Jake
Jake Young 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Nao
Pixie-Andy 20/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Perspective! It's interesting how smoothly i followed Simon up this 5b after having to pull on the gear of VD 4b Holly Bush Gully an hour earlier.

with Simon Crossley
gaz3212 23/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Alex Botten ??/2016 -
Robin Nichols 31/Dec/15 Solo O/S
with Jemma
Charlotte Nelson 25/Oct/15 Lead dnf
with Heather
Flavio 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead
sam_owen41 16/Sep/15 2nd
Neal Jobling 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Took a while to commit to the balancy crux

with Tracy
ned_85 26/Aug/15 Lead
with Ryan Baird
The Grist 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
petemeads 20/Aug/15 Lead

Two long reaches, good gear. Nice route, surely harder than Orpheus Wall?

with Simon Perry
BareBears 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

First HVS 5b. Messed the start up...Tried going upto second break instead of traversing at the first break...But managed to do it correctly without a rest

with Guy
stvey 09/Aug/15 2nd β
with Ollie
Dogwood 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Eliminated the small block at the start. Thought standing up onto the first ledge was the crux. It wasn't. Didn't stop to place gear after the crux.

with stvey
cdpuk 07/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
andyob 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Calder
Calder 25/Jul/15 2nd
with Andy OB
James rogers86 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

One tricky move on to the slab.

with Mark Duncan, Tom Frankenberg
jayray 27/Jun/15 Lead
Hog Dog 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Lot's of faff at the start

with Rob Green, Jen Roberts
Ian Saxton 11/Jun/15 2nd
with martin
Angus Taylor 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Not entirely sure i found the flake, getting steady after the crux rock over was pretty exciting. Fantastic route

martinbettridge06 10/Jun/15 Lead
dominic lee 06/Jun/15 Solo
bencole ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tedburt 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Aaron Burdett
jimbonfire 26/May/15 -
Hidden 17/May/15 2nd dog
chrisdjackson 17/May/15 2nd O/S
with John
john lynch 17/May/15 Lead O/S
with chris jackson
Phil.Rudd 16/May/15 2nd O/S
jkarran 16/May/15 Lead

Harder to gain the ledge than leave it despite what the book said

with Aly
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd O/S
alex goodall 16/May/15 Lead O/S
The Reaper 07/May/15 Lead O/S
JHiley 30/Apr/15 2nd
with PCC
Capricorn One 30/Apr/15 Lead
with Joe PCC
dan_blair87 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
will9911 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Dom
dom94 08/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with shaun
lizzie789 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Cant remember doing this, presume I did it clean

Sink41 07/Mar/15 Lead β
RagingPuffin 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
joemallia 07/Mar/15 2nd dog

Fidel's lead. 1 rest

Hidden 04/Mar/15 Lead
65m moderate millington 04/Mar/15 2nd dog
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
John Higgs 09/Dec/14 Solo dnf
with Caitlin Bell
Hidden 08/Dec/14 Lead O/S
BenL 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with SUMC
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
RichardLeggett 21/Sep/14 2nd
RichardLeggett 21/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Had to setup abseil to retrieve gear. Lost it on the step.

nick ferro 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
rurp 29/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Albachoss 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Marq 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead
jshields 25/Jun/14 2nd


DaveB61 25/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
admackie 14/Jun/14 -
with dan
riff156 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
quickdrawmcraw 14/Jun/14 -
tombushell 10/Jun/14 2nd
Sam Husband 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom
Matt Smith 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd dog
bob_cbr 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
cragsman9000 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Neil
Don't like e3s 13/Apr/14 2nd
with Terri
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd dog
Retro Rowan 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with John Williams
Kevster 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 08/Mar/14 Lead dog
with steve read
adam clarke 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Direct start up thin crack/groove. Balancey climbing with long reach definitely a big help. Disappointed at lack of placements behind flake!

with Adam Lynch
JimboWizbo 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Great HVS

with Beth
Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
phildawson 09/Nov/13 Lead O/S
matt.stevenson 09/Nov/13 2nd O/S
alexanderadunn 01/Oct/13 Lead
Natalyaaa 29/Sep/13 2nd

Seconded Bart. Hard move. Kinda had to dyno.

terragait 22/Sep/13 2nd
with deej
deejmonkey 22/Sep/13 Lead
with rob, len
youwillfindjimbo 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Kev
Wanderlust 18/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Shaun
gazfellows 15/Aug/13 Lead

Wicked crux move! Defoe gets the taste buds goin !!!

with Nic
claregardiner 20/Jul/13 Lead
the power 15/Jul/13 Lead β

Pulled rope and lead on robs gear hard

with rob
dr_botnik 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
kabutsu 06/Jul/13 Lead
rich_hw 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Fran
Hidden 23/Jun/13 2nd O/S
David Kay 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Laramadness 21/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tez
Tez29 21/May/13 2nd O/S
with G.L
eldre070 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Harder than it looks. Was tough getting off second break.

with Cem
cem 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with chris Lyness
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Lead
gobey 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

great route and reaching above the flake is easier for those with reach, brushing off the loose lichen wasnt fun and shows this doesnt get too much traffic compared to the other routes on Birchen.

with Paul
Knot-Paul 31/Mar/13 2nd dnf
with Bob
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Sam Cooke 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Mark Challoner
Hidden 16/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead rpt
Bradbury 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
jorge1983 28/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Was already soaking wet and then started raining even more. The slab was too slippy!

colin177 03/Oct/12 Lead dnf
with James Morley
deacondeacon 01/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Felt like middling hvs, thought this was a really nice route.

cameron_hall 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Aeron Buchanan
Wayne S 24/Aug/12 Lead β
ChrisBrooke 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Elved Roberts
Goose4 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Goose4 10/Aug/12 Lead
JamieForman 26/Jul/12 TR O/S
with Chris, Jim
Paul Hy 21/Jul/12 2nd
with Damien K
lamma_hippie 21/Jul/12 2nd
with Jon Lawton
joemallia 01/Jul/12 Lead dog

Went straight up from the first break with a long reach - might, more easily have moved left to mantelshelf the niche of Sail Buttress. Then, a careless foot placement and a fall from the crux. Completed, but didn't descend to start from scratch.

with Ignacio del Valle, Fidel Sciamanna
pippa_g 29/Jun/12 2nd O/S

nice move leaving the ledge, big reach felt very tenuous

Nick1812P 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 18/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/12 Lead
shaun walby 11/Jun/12 2nd O/S

worth E1 for shorties

with Nick Whelan
shaky2 29/May/12 Lead
Josh Dickerson 16/May/12 Lead O/S
bennevis 16/May/12 2nd
with Jon
HAJ Francis 06/May/12 Lead O/S

very committing move getting over the bulge but awesome when you do it.

Alex.M-M. 06/May/12 Lead O/S
TheaSmea 06/May/12 2nd
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd
katherinesydney 07/Apr/12 2nd dog

Couldn't make the long reach first time

with tony walker, bobby gilbert
dan gibson 05/Apr/12 Solo O/S
stephenhartley 28/Mar/12 Lead
with Joe Garrett
Hidden 28/Mar/12 2nd
Tom Seccombe 13/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead dnf
shafiq lalloo 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S
hoggy90 08/Mar/12 Lead
davewsargent 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
jshields 25/Feb/12 2nd

Repeat, previous lead.

Hidden 19/Jan/12 2nd
Morwood 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
MD 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark H
Dafydd Llywelyn 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
andrew hammond 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jack adams 01/Oct/11 2nd
with andy
pie_eater_pete 29/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/11 2nd O/S
btc 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Vik
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd
Jonathan Hall 21/Aug/11 Lead
Trevera 07/Aug/11 Lead
with Simon Moody
sarah hawker 07/Aug/11 TR dnf

Via Sail Buttress Start. Chickened out of the top section because the swing would have been really nasty if I'd come off.

with Sarah Follmann, Simon M
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Tithe Technique 31/Jul/11 TR dog
chumleywarner 31/Jul/11 TR O/S
charley 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Nice route :) Did the right hand start. Wasn't too happy with the cam placement, looked quite worn. Maybe just needed a slightly bigger size. Got a bomber tricam in the small finger pocket though.

with Steve Fletcher, Geoff, Kev
antroy 23/Jul/11 Lead
migs493 10/Jul/11 Solo rpt
tgeh 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Didn't notice a bold high step. Gear is good and basically at your feet for the crux

mattpw 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very little in the way of bomber gear below the tricky move and nothing above! Quite scary!

with Neil Drew, Nick Butler
Palindrome ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Steven Andrews 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Though that this was a bit of a soft touch......or alternatively easier for the tall.

with Delphine
liamoloughlin 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Not E1

steve2006 15/May/11 Lead O/S

the placement hole under the crack is looking a bit over used, so back it up before going for the crux

Bex_M 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
Emma-Louise Anderson 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Jim made this look far easier than it felt. It took a while to step up from the ledge and commit, and when I did the holds were not as good as I hoped.... and then I put my foot up and it was over : )

shafiq lalloo 14/Apr/11 Lead
with Ben Ritchie
Ragnaar 12/Apr/11 Lead β

Right-hand start. The step up is bold - you either make it once committed or you're taking a fall! (I thought quite well protected though, so safe)

with martin hirons
Hidden 12/Apr/11 2nd dog
Lev 12/Apr/11 Lead rpt
John_Hat 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

If you know the critical section in advance (specifically that the second rockover results in good holds) then its certainly HVS. If you don't then its hellava worrying for two moves and I'd say E1.

with Kevin
robal 09/Apr/11 -
Guy Wilson 07/Apr/11 Lead

Good fun. Feels adventurous stepping up into the unknown but it is all there as always!

with Gavin Moy
Ragnaar 06/Apr/11 TR O/S

Did this instead of following Martin up the VS

with martin hirons
pmurdy 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Sam Ash 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
KatrinaP 02/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Mar/11 -
rwm7131 06/Mar/11 Lead
with James Ayres & Dan Parker
Hidden 06/Mar/11 2nd
ian d f 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/11 2nd
Cake 25/Feb/11 Lead O/S

If that one good move deserves three stars we must have lowered our standards just because it's Birchen.

with Matt
Microwired22 25/Feb/11 -
stevorobs3 ??/2011 2nd β
Hidden ??/2011 2nd
rurp ??/2011 Lead O/S
AielSavage ??/2011 Lead

was a massive relief gaining the slab! awesome route.

Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mattshort 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Chris K
Geras 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

nice! gera was a little marginal, tries to back up with a peanut in the flake but that fell out once I had moved passed.

with Kiwi Pete, Pete Needen
Hidden 30/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
llamaglama 12/Oct/10 2nd
with Jam
Jimbo C 09/Oct/10 2nd
with Gethin
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
gethin_allen 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

A bit wobbly at the high-step/rock over but otherwise pretty good fun.

with Jimbo C
philboy 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with bisanth
Hidden 21/Sep/10 TR
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead
Sgt. Vest 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Braine
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Keendan 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Nice. Crux is like Topsail but harder

Mike_Hayes 04/Sep/10 -
ElvisLeg 04/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Daniel Heath
Hidden 03/Sep/10 2nd O/S
cj1970 01/Sep/10 Lead dnf
DaveFidler 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Thomas Welch, Arron Quinn
A Crook 30/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
simeclimb68 14/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Graeme Hammond 12/Aug/10 Lead rpt

think the down grade in the new bmc guide is spot on... a reachy one move wonder... it took longer to set up the belay. Still nice.

with Angus Malcolm
Jim Slater 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Took a while to sus out the crux..

Katya 10/Aug/10 2nd
with Alex Dalton
Hidden 10/Aug/10 2nd
frume 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Big bold reach with not much gear after, good job it gets easier.

with Dan Bluck
chrisbussell 03/Aug/10 Lead
with Jonny Wing
dean79 20/Jul/10 2nd
with alan watson
marclloyd77 18/Jul/10 2nd
Allan Watson 18/Jul/10 Lead

Took a fall when down climbing from an initial excursion onto the slab. I blame the rain from earlier in the day.

with Marc Lloyd
Glasera 11/Jul/10 2nd dog
Matt Fry 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Birdo 19/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Alistair Corbett 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
maxkellock 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S

very good route with some good reaches in.

philboy 07/Jun/10 TR
with matt g
Hidden 07/Jun/10 TR
pete1993 31/May/10 TR
max_chan 20/May/10 Lead rpt
with Lou
Hidden 15/May/10 2nd
markhilton 11/May/10 Lead O/S
natalio 02/May/10 2nd O/S
Slarti B 02/May/10 2nd dog

Fell off once, damn, was almost there

with Jon
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd
AsleepOnBelay 01/May/10 Lead O/S

Couldn't get anything decent to stay in the flake, and anyhow, it's only six inches above the horizontal break. Moved up to do the crux a few times, sussed it on the third. Glad to get something in above that. Felt like middling HVS at best, but a real buzz to lead.

with Sarah Davis
tebs 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S

nice groove using the thin crack to start, balancy round the arete and one more move to easy ground. soft.

with Jon
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Solo O/S
radioactivekid 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Kyya
Hidden 23/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
bennevis 19/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Jon
alisonsmigova 17/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead
D.Andrew 12/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/10 TR
Maxim2023 ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Matt Smith
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
will6459 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
MeMeMe 19/Mar/10 Lead
with Andy
Mark D 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Tommy B
Aufton ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
fatblacktone ??/2010 Lead O/S
DannyK 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Steph, Monkey, pep, Katie
Hidden 10/Oct/09 TR β
goi.ashmore 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with John Haslam
Rowansb ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead
matsavage 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Twisty 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rayan Sammut
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
snakebite 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Sheehan
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd dog
cooper leek 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with donk
donkster 19/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with ben, DaveNW
tallsop 25/Aug/09 2nd
with Dave Saxby
Irn Bruce 22/Aug/09 Lead dog

Ian made the lead as far as the crux but was too pumped to finish. After swapping I lead, clipping the previous gear but faltered at the crux. Made the long power reach to delicate sloper on the second attempt to finish the climb - tough HVS!

with Ian Jenkins
Mark_RMC 17/Aug/09 TR

Had to rescue Claire off the top of this after she took a big lob. Following up I can see the difficulty and also fell off the reachy crux move. Good fun.

with Rob Smart
Andrew Barker 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Indirect start, didn't realise there was another start. Did the crux in a balancey reachy way rather than the high step.

JWB 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Took a few attempts (moving uo, trying and then stepping back down) at the crux but once I had worked out the move it was easy. Made me wonder what I had been messing around at!

with Martin Harrell
Rampikino 05/Jul/09 TR
with Cat
fatbuoybazza 27/Jun/09 Lead β
gg4419 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
amstel 28/May/09 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/May/09 Lead

One tricky move but a delightful one. More like HVS really.

Hidden 10/May/09 2nd
adam carless 10/May/09 Lead O/S

Right hand start (as for the E2). Crux done as a long stretch rather than a nifty rockover (as demonstrated by Flicka). Relative grading - If Orpheus wall is HVS 5c, this only deserves VS 5a.

with Flicka
hamish2016 06/May/09 Lead O/S
with Emma Wright
Hidden 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
max_chan 23/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
heavy Belay 05/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 21/Mar/09 -
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
hellboundblr 21/Mar/09 Lead dnf

Fell repeatedly at crux on to ledge, eventually resulting in two sprained ankles.

Milne 28/Feb/09 Lead dnf

did direct start no probs, bottled it on crux, going dark, too scary, couldnt get any gear to sit in the flake, nasty for HVS.

Mattyk 20/Feb/09 Lead O/S

soft for E1, but really nice route. great moves! started from rhs up thin groove/ crack.

with Tim Kavanagh
Hidden ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
catblack ??/2009 2nd dog
howlingbaboon 26/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with James
Stig 26/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Dave
Andysomething 19/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Colin Binks
dpmUK 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S

May have just weighted the rope but possibly not (belayer didn't seem to think so).

with markw's cousin
Lady Lou Lou 07/Sep/08 2nd rpt

took an awesome swing on this one when my leader's gear fell out. beautiful climb tho. not ideal for the shorter people, but definately do-able.

with Anthony Allsopp
mattjam ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with holloway
SGD 13/Jul/08 Lead

it is a very long reach. I'm 5,6 and I had to readjust my feet several times before I was able to get a finger tip on the hold - lovely move though

with Jenny Upright
gb83 22/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with masa
masa-alpin 22/Jun/08 Lead
with Claudia, P Luke, Graeme B, Andy Rich
Pixie-Andy 22/Jun/08 2nd
with Masa
Jules_Robbo 13/Jun/08 2nd dnf
with Tom
tom_1985 13/Jun/08 Lead


with Jules
Castleclimber 24/May/08 2nd
Julian Mowbray 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Pash
gb83 15/May/08 Lead dog

superb route! took the direct route up the thin flake then traverse round the arete

with I.Killey
jak.kelly 10/May/08 Lead rpt
with Lynnette Evans
London Luke ?/May/08 Lead
roberto18 16/Apr/08 Lead
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ??/2008 Lead
with Rick Graham
fatbuoybazza ??/2008 Lead dnf

bit of a toughie for me, would you trust any gear in that flake??, had gear in the break at half height, just couldnt quite pull through on the crap holds after the flake, top roped it fine tho, aint it always the way..

with olivia & phil
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
Rich A-Wilkes ?/Dec/07 2nd O/S
Andy Clarke 17/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with Rich
Sidekick 14/Nov/07 Solo O/S
OffshoreAndy 17/Oct/07 2nd
with NCC Nic
Hidden 07/Oct/07 2nd
Nick Taylor 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Nick F Smith ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 29/Sep/07 2nd
Somerset swede basher 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Sarah, Abi and Dave
Hidden 08/Sep/07 2nd
clintos 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with jonny green
Oceanic ?/Aug/07 -
jonny_098 30/Jul/07 2nd β
with Matt Bazire
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Solo O/S
JonBray 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
HimTiggins 05/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with John, Paul
Becky E 20/May/07 2nd dog

Cheated a bit

with Charles Mason
Pythonist 18/May/07 Lead O/S

Only E1 if you don't get gear in the flake before the rock leftwards (and I didn't).

with Chris Jennions
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead
IanJackson 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Robeverybody
Graeme Hammond 14/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Lauren Foster/Keeler
derico 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Jack
Tobias at Home 21/Jan/07 Lead O/S

not much decent gear in the crack.

Mike_Hayes ??/2007 -
MNA123 ??/2007 Lead
Coel Hellier 29/Oct/06 Lead
maybe_si 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Matt
Jack Symmons ?/Oct/06 Lead

Done in the wet and dry. Know it by heart now.

with Dave P
colin milton 01/Sep/06 2nd
chrissloan84 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Andy G
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Jul/06 Solo O/S
CJE 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Neill McMullan
russonly 28/Jun/06 Solo β

Nice move, real buzz on a solo.

zcapxa5 22/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/06 2nd O/S
david morse 11/Jun/06 Solo
SMc ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Anne
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
leon ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
nikmorgan ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Martyn Beardsley
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/06 TR dog
Hidden 18/Mar/06 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Dave Morris
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 11/Dec/05 Lead rpt
Rich A-Wilkes 11/Dec/05 Lead O/S

Excellent! My first E1 and my first 5b!

with Simon Patrick
Owen W-G 02/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tom
ukb & bmc shark 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Morris
Hidden 14/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Ben1983 ?/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Dave Mason ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
Alex Mason ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

found this dead easy no 1 bit of gear was great but together not bad tonked out the crux easy and the sprinted to top

with steve g
Hidden 04/Jun/05 Lead
madaxeman 17/May/05 TR


with Dave Potts
Scottish78 03/May/05 Lead O/S
mwh 02/May/05 2nd O/S
with JamesB
Lev 02/May/05 Lead O/S
with James Burrows
Phil West 30/Apr/05 Lead dnf
with Chris Tan
Shaw Brown ??/2005 2nd
with porno
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with SUMC
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
Stefan 13/Jun/04 TR O/S
climbingrev 02/Jun/04 Lead RP

Same start as Sail Buttress (HS). Then Straight / Right over overhang on slopey rounded non-jug. Straight up "steps" after. On leading, found true line to be out to right, using crack, high step and reach. My 1st E1 lead. Crux is quite a pull on not very much. Top is all foot balance - slabby.

Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
tommytwotone 09/May/04 2nd O/S
with Richard Hatton
Daniel Armitage 03/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/03 TR
SteveM 11/Oct/03 Lead
Alfredo ?/Oct/03 2nd
darren1 21/Jun/03 -
sean0409 27/Apr/03 Lead RP

i practiced the crux on top rope but found it easy after i watched my partners fault the reach off the flake has a hidden crimp up right rather than the sloper then get established and go again,abit commiting but not too bad. i did like the route though

Hidden 07/Apr/03 TR
Nigel Coe 22/Mar/03 2nd
with Mike Harris
Ram MkiV 07/Jan/03 Lead O/S

freezing. had a good sledge afterwards.

with Dan Holdsworth
Mark Davies PK ?/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with Laura
phardman 08/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Teresa
Budge 11/Jul/02 Lead rpt
mike fenwick ?/Jul/02 Lead
with Paul Bridges
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden 08/May/02 Lead
Mark Riley ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 18/Nov/01 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 12/Jun/01 Lead
cem 10/Jun/01 Lead rpt
with Neil Northrop
cem 10/Sep/00 2nd
with Miles Butteriss
Hidden 03/Sep/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/00 2nd
Rich Malcolm 04/Jun/00 Lead O/S
migs493 27/May/00 Lead O/S
Dave Bond ??/2000 Lead O/S
with john v
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Ben
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/99 Lead rpt
nige pacer 28/Apr/99 Lead O/S
ajc 11/Apr/99 Lead dnf
craig d ??/1999 -
adam carless ??/1999 TR O/S
richsmithinbristol 11/Oct/98 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/98 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 13/Apr/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Chris Murray 22/Mar/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 14/Dec/97 Lead
with Louise Pellett
chris sm 19/Oct/97 Lead O/S
The Reaper 27/Sep/97 Lead dnf
martroberts 01/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/97 2nd β
Martin Bennett 13/Apr/97 -
with MT
BruceW ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Keith S.
Hidden 05/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
sdht ??/1994 -
Chris Reid ?/May/93 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/92 Lead O/S

Surely only 5a

Hidden 09/Jul/91 TR
Roget 09/Jul/91 Solo rpt
Roget 06/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with chris jones
kato'sdad ?/May/91 Solo
Hidden 13/Oct/90 2nd
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
tapley 21/Aug/89 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden ?/Jun/87 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S

2nd HVS lead

with Dave Gurney
Hidden 15/Sep/85 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/85 Lead
Nigel Bond 25/Jun/83 Lead
with Rodger Edenborough
mark-abz 27/Apr/82 TR
Rob Davies 01/Jun/80 Lead
with Mike Papworth
Hidden 17/Jun/79 Lead
Ken Taylor 20/Apr/79 AltLd
with George Diprose
RichardMc 06/Nov/77 Lead
with Martin Stanton
RichardMc 17/Jul/77 Lead rpt
with Harry Woodbridge
uphillnow ??/1976 Lead

repeated as second 9/10/96

RichardMc 19/Oct/75 Lead O/S

The guide book said VS!

with John Antill
rogerskews ??/1971 -
with Various
Andy Say ??/1971 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 71
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 124
Votes cast 115
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set