Rockfax Description
The arete is hard for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1993

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

mrteale 08/Oct/17 Solo O/S
charvey 25/Aug/17 Solo O/S
Marl 08/Aug/17 Solo O/S
scottywakefield 22/Jun/17 Lead dnf

couldn't get fingers into the flake, backed off.

Malaka 11/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Kev
ferdia 14/Jan/17 Sent O/S
Andy Moles 14/Jan/17 Sent
adi bryant 29/Dec/16 Sent
James Oakes 10/Aug/16 Solo O/S
LanceSolf 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Lee Packer, Elaine Tyler
dom94 10/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Matt Harmon 10/Apr/16 Sent x

2nd go

Hidden 09/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Stroppy 13/Mar/16 Sent x
John Higgs 11/Dec/15 Solo O/S
alexanderadunn ?/Oct/15 Lead
Manc88 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 04/Sep/15 Solo O/S
DavidPC 15/Jul/15 Solo O/S
with Jamie Lilley
kermit_uk 25/Jun/15 Solo rpt
dominic lee 06/Jun/15 Solo
charley 27/Feb/15 Solo rpt

Easier for the tall but still quite committing and a nasty fall potential.

Robin Nichols 10/Nov/14 Solo O/S
Quarryboy 25/Oct/14 Solo O/S

Easy when you are 6'4.

Retro Rowan 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/14 TR dnf
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Solo
Hidden 21/Aug/14 Solo
Hidden 21/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Lawrence Beesley-Peck 18/May/14 Solo
Hidden 18/May/14 Solo O/S
amccann 17/May/14 Solo O/S
adam carless 05/May/14 Solo RP

Finally figured out how to get to the good left handholds. Definitely awkward for shorties, but not E1. Not sure what style to say, I've tried & fallen off the move 4/5 times over the past 10 years, but never spent time to "work" it.

Hidden 16/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Ablewings 15/Apr/14 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/14 Solo
Lawrence Beesley-Peck ??/2014 Solo
joese7en 15/Nov/13 Solo O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 03/Aug/13 Solo

With mat.

mtempest 02/Aug/13 Sent
kermit_uk 16/Jul/13 Solo β
Alkis 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Managed to pop from the sloper on the arete to the good flake with a big stretch, so while it was scary, I don't think it was 5C for me.

PeteWilson 07/Apr/13 Solo O/S
charley 04/Jan/13 TR O/S

was meant to be on the shunt but turned more into a solo...

karol dubas 15/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Pawel
JonnyW 04/Nov/12 2nd
partz 04/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Just a bit bold. May as well solo it really! quite technical, quite good

phleppy 20/Oct/12 Solo β

Excellent, i can see how it could be harder for shorties!

with Mark
Bill Lawrence 20/Oct/12 Solo O/S
deacondeacon 09/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Solo
Hidden 25/May/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/May/12 Solo
Morwood 24/Apr/12 Solo RP

TR crux start before soloing, top section easy enough without placing gear so didnt

Hidden 10/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Sent
Simon_Letman 19/Feb/12 Sent

above pads

kingholmesy ??/2012 Solo O/S
Ethan 12/Dec/11 Solo O/S
with Ed, Sam
lozowen 18/Nov/11 Solo O/S
Oceanic 16/Oct/11 -
Aid@n 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
CragDog 15/Oct/11 Solo
David Kay 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Much easier for the tall (6'2")

with LUUMC
Dafydd Llywelyn 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Boj S 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S

put a coat over the rock, mind matt

axeman 07/Oct/11 Solo O/S

soloed for a warm up!

with michael
pie_eater_pete 29/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Marti999 05/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/11 Solo O/S
migs493 28/May/11 Solo O/S

One move wonder but quite nice.

with Tom
John_Hat 02/May/11 Solo O/S

Highly height-dependent. 5'10 and above I'd say reasonably easy. 5'8 and below really quite hard. I'm 5'9 and it was just about possible...

with Stevieblue
iamstebarker 23/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Peakology 20/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with Dave
Ollie B 03/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/11 Solo
ebf 24/Oct/10 TR O/S

HVS in the old guide. If I'd know it were E1, I'd had led it. Very very very long stretches above a not great landing.

Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 02/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Ellie, Matt
mattwyles1 02/Oct/10 Solo
with Ellie, Joe
Nick F Smith 01/Sep/10 Solo
Gazleah ?/Sep/10 Solo O/S
with dprctr
Wood for Trees 29/Aug/10 Sent

retro logged

Oliver Branagan 29/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Could reach the side cut hold then to a fluttery foot raise made enjoyable movement.

popebenedictus 21/Jun/10 Solo O/S

Arbitary grade, could reach the flake

with Soloed
JRae 11/Jun/10 Solo
zappa 02/May/10 Lead O/S
emmafromSB 02/May/10 2nd
with zappa
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd
Somerset swede basher 10/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead
Jonni ??/2010 Solo
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Solo
Hidden 07/Nov/09 Lead
JLS 10/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Maybe next time

with Jacqui
disturbed_one51 08/Oct/09 Solo
JDDD 09/Aug/09 Solo
Andrew Barker 08/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Think I tried this last year but downclimbed before the crux. Felt easy this time, more like HVS 5b.

Hidden 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
rubygem 07/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Milne 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S

nice moves, bit bold. much harder if like me @ 5"7, you cant reach the holds. its a fairly hard move for "HVS 5b", with a bad landing.

with cooper
Ben_Bullbridge 16/Jun/09 2nd β
with Milne
Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Chalky Cat 01/Jun/09 TR rpt

Awkward starting move seemed easier than I remembered it and the rest was straightforward.

with Dom, Mod
Peakology 01/Jun/09 Solo rpt

not worth placing gear after start now i know it.

with mod, cat
steve2006 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead
liamoloughlin 01/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
Kayan ??/2009 Lead O/S
tommo1664 12/Oct/08 Solo
SGD 13/Jul/08 Solo

very balancy move, good boulder problem found it hard, maybe because it was hot and I was sweating

donkster ?/Jun/08 Solo O/S
London Luke ?/May/08 Lead
btc 03/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with floris b
Chalky Cat 19/Mar/08 2nd O/S

Tricky off balance start to get onto the first nose then fairly easy

with Dom
Peakology 19/Mar/08 Lead O/S

no gear, good moves bit of a one move wonder

with cat
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Dan 85 09/Feb/08 Solo O/S
with Heddwyn
Hidden ??/2008 -
Sidekick ??/2008 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Dec/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Stuart S 29/Aug/07 Solo O/S

Very straightforward when you're tall.

Andy Fielding 25/Aug/07 Solo
Hidden 10/Aug/07 Solo O/S
jonny5 03/Aug/07 Solo

One hard move at the start then straight forward. Easier if you're tall!

with Alix Blockley
nai 30/Jul/07 Solo RP
clintos 30/Jul/07 Solo
with jonny green
HimTiggins 05/Jun/07 Solo O/S
peterbull ?/Jun/07 -
peterbull ?/Jun/07 Solo
tommo1664 08/Apr/07 Solo
Jack Symmons ?/Apr/07 Solo
with Dave P
Oceanic ?/Apr/07 -
Graeme Hammond 16/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Gambit 11/Mar/07 Solo O/S
with Family trip
derico 11/Mar/07 Solo O/S
with Jack
Hidden 19/Jan/07 Solo O/S
fizzy_elephant 09/Dec/06 Solo O/S
with stu
Hidden 05/Sep/06 Solo O/S
chrissloan84 20/Aug/06 Solo O/S
AJ007 11/Jul/06 Solo O/S
russonly 28/Jun/06 Solo β

Easy if you are tall. HVS 5a?

leon ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 11/May/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/May/06 Solo rpt
Hidden 05/May/06 Solo
Rich Guest 22/Apr/06 Solo O/S

Stupid E1 bagging fare, rightly downgraded

Hidden 22/Apr/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Stefan ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Dave
Pete Graham ??/2006 Solo
Boy ??/2006 -
Pythonist 13/Nov/05 Solo O/S

Not a chance this is E1 - the right-hand 5c variation start to the neighbouring VS is harder! It's a single (not even very-)long reach.

Hidden 26/Sep/05 TR
RussB 03/Sep/05 Solo O/S

E1 5c then.

with Trevor Brown , Pete Crawforth
Lev 02/May/05 Lead O/S
with James Byrne
AngelaC 01/May/05 2nd
nmwr ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/04 Solo O/S
tommytwotone 09/May/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/04 Lead O/S
LankyPaddy 19/Sep/03 Solo O/S
Katsmiff 19/Mar/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/03 2nd
duncan 18/Oct/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/02 Solo
Hidden 08/May/02 Solo
pete johnson 20/Apr/02 Solo
DerwentDiluted 18/Nov/01 Solo
CrashMat Rob 29/Aug/01 Solo O/S
with Steve, Sahra, Miles, Nicky
Hidden 03/Sep/00 Solo
antroy 12/Jun/00 Solo
rocktigger ?/Jun/99 Solo O/S
ajoliver ??/1998 Solo RP
Roget 01/Mar/97 Solo O/S
Laramadness 15/Oct/96 Solo
Pedro50 ?/Jun/89 Solo
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High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set