17m.

Rockfax Description
An awesome roof-crack; a desperate struggle for most. Climb an awkward groove to a poor rest and then undercut out left. The struggle to finger-jam past the lip is memorable and will leave its mark one way or another. Once past the lip easy jamming remains, if you have any steam left. E2? I don't think so. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1959

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Wide Cracks, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, 50 of the Best, WideBoyz Crack School, Top 50 Peak Cracks, James' Winter Grit ticklist, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, UK Sandbags, UK Dream Cracks

Feedback

UserDateNotes
UKB Shark 22 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Re Sutty's comments on UKC; Whillans led (after prior top-roping) with a rope carrying a peg but ended up not placing any pro - so effectively a solo. I understood that JC removed the chockstone (on lead) that Birtle's placed.
 
Show beta
βeta: Re Sutty's comments on UKC; Whillans led (after prior top-roping) with a rope carrying a peg but ended up not placing any pro - so effectively a solo. I understood that JC removed the chockstone (on lead) that Birtle's placed.
John Kirk 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Don Whillans told me he soloed the first ascent ie no gear !. Jim Campbell did the second ascent and had salt and vinegar put on his hands in the cafe afterwards. Geoff Birtles did an early ascent after dropping a big limestone chockstone in the crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don Whillans told me he soloed the first ascent ie no gear !. Jim Campbell did the second ascent and had salt and vinegar put on his hands in the cafe afterwards. Geoff Birtles did an early ascent after dropping a big limestone chockstone in the crack.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pie_eater_pete 24 May Lead
andi turner 30 Sep, 2018 Lead Great route. Bit slippery and the top was filth. Don't know where this finger jam is though, fist yes!
with pete bridgwood
Great route. Bit slippery and the top was filth. Don't know where this finger jam is though, fist yes!
with pete bridgwood
Alex Mason 7 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Shameful. 3 tries and didn't get past the crux. Would love to blame the 30degree temps and no big cam but I bet whillans wouldn't.
Shameful. 3 tries and didn't get past the crux. Would love to blame the 30degree temps and no big cam but I bet whillans wouldn't.
Al Evans ??, 2018 2nd
with ron fawcett
with ron fawcett
Hidden 1 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt
mari ?Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 8 Jun, 2017 2nd
Flavio 26 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Wanted to do this and Emerald for so long. Heel over head jamming fun/horror, then off to Gardoms for Grovelfest part 2. Grit is awesome.
Wanted to do this and Emerald for so long. Heel over head jamming fun/horror, then off to Gardoms for Grovelfest part 2. Grit is awesome.
Andy Moles 6 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with James Oswald
with James Oswald
James Oswald 6 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S Hard! The approach to the crux isn't too hard but is a little pumpy. For the crux I just managed it using a combination of heel-toe cams in the crack and knee jams. It's worth taping up and wearing socks for this one. Hard E3.
with Andy Moles
Hard! The approach to the crux isn't too hard but is a little pumpy. For the crux I just managed it using a combination of heel-toe cams in the crack and knee jams. It's worth taping up and wearing socks for this one. Hard E3.
with Andy Moles
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 2nd dog
Hidden 8 May, 2016 2nd dog
Graeme Hammond 17 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt Previously failed to finish. Fantastic to get the jam in the final crack, and found an E2 sequence too. So intimidating but not as bad as it looks or its reputation. No need for tape
Previously failed to finish. Fantastic to get the jam in the final crack, and found an E2 sequence too. So intimidating but not as bad as it looks or its reputation. No need for tape
The old James turnbull 3 Aug, 2015 Lead
soph 5 Jun, 2015 Lead β
with Tony Stone
with Tony Stone
hamer89 ?Apr, 2015 Lead
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Andy Peak 1 22 Aug, 2013 Lead RP Hard as hell, at one point i had a over head heal hook
with Tom Martin
Hard as hell, at one point i had a over head heal hook
with Tom Martin
timmyhobby 30 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf
rocksol ??, 2013 - sentinel & emerald no probs. sentinel harder
sentinel & emerald no probs. sentinel harder
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden 28 May, 2011 Lead RP
Misha 21 May, 2011 Lead dog Trying this after doing Emerald Crack earlier was ambitious but at least I now don't have to go back to Chatsworth for a few years! Would be nice to go back and do them both clean though. Tricky to the rest, hard to place gear on the undercut, crucial cam #4 below the lip, could actually hold that position ok but found moving up to the good jam very hard. In the end it was a case of sorting out the hand sequence: L on the good hold on the lip then pull through with R into the jam. Had to have five goes. Got to the jam on the 4th go but somehow blew it and had a decent fall into space. That was fun but left its mark on RH. Excellent grit bruiser, harder than Emerald Crack.
with Ian W, Brian Rodgers
Trying this after doing Emerald Crack earlier was ambitious but at least I now don't have to go back to Chatsworth for a few years! Would be nice to go back and do them both clean though. Tricky to the rest, hard to place gear on the undercut, crucial cam #4 below the lip, could actually hold that position ok but found moving up to the good jam very hard. In the end it was a case of sorting out the hand sequence: L on the good hold on the lip then pull through with R into the jam. Had to have five goes. Got to the jam on the 4th go but somehow blew it and had a decent fall into space. That was fun but left its mark on RH. Excellent grit bruiser, harder than Emerald Crack.
with Ian W, Brian Rodgers
thomasadixon 29 Apr, 2011 Lead dog Tough moves around the bulge. Good route.
Tough moves around the bulge. Good route.
walts4 ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 -
walts4 ??, 2011 -
Hidden 18 Jun, 2010 Lead dog
Hidden ??, 2010 -
dan gibson 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 Lead dog
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Boy ?Sep, 2009 -
with Ted Kingsnorth
with Ted Kingsnorth
keith leonard ??, 2009 2nd
The old James turnbull 10 Jun, 2008 Lead fell but pulled ropes and done clean in the end
with aiden
fell but pulled ropes and done clean in the end
with aiden
hamish2016 10 May, 2008 2nd dog all strength sapped whilst trying to hold on forever whilst removing a stuck cam. finished the route albeit with many rests. brutal!
all strength sapped whilst trying to hold on forever whilst removing a stuck cam. finished the route albeit with many rests. brutal!
Toby Dunn 30 Aug, 2007 Lead
with Ruth
with Ruth
Hidden 4 Jul, 2006 Lead rpt
JulesV ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
nickdonohue ?Jun, 2003 Lead dnf outrageous! (was graded E2)
with Jim Barradale
outrageous! (was graded E2)
with Jim Barradale
tuftynick ??, 2001 -
Hidden 25 Jun, 1999 -
Hidden 17 Jul, 1998 Lead O/S
Roget 31 May, 1997 Lead dog 1 rest
with jon
1 rest
with jon
crossleysm ??, 1995 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 12 Sep, 1991 Lead RP After about 12 tries!
with Ian Milne
After about 12 tries!
with Ian Milne
clanger ??, 1991 -
uphillnow ?Sep, 1990 Lead partner started up it but backed off at the start of the traverse. I climbed up with the rope through his gear and led the traverse and top section. Nearly blew it at the top but managed to hang in.
partner started up it but backed off at the start of the traverse. I climbed up with the rope through his gear and led the traverse and top section. Nearly blew it at the top but managed to hang in.
Bob Windsor 28 Jul, 1990 Lead Had a non climbing friend belay.Chuffed!
Had a non climbing friend belay.Chuffed!
Neil McA 31 May, 1990 2nd O/S
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
stp 23 Aug, 1985 Lead O/S This route had a reputation but much easier than expected.
This route had a reputation but much easier than expected.
William Robertson ??, 1984 Lead O/S Bloody hell! Exhausting and desperate.
with Ian Timm
Bloody hell! Exhausting and desperate.
with Ian Timm
Andy Nicholson ?Jul, 1983 Lead rpt
with Chez
with Chez
Hidden 12 Nov, 1982 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden 29 Aug, 1971 Lead dnf
mikej 28 Feb, 1970 Lead dnf
with Pete Boardman
with Pete Boardman
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 11
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set