Rockfax Description
The last of the classic Gardom's E3s is a bold arete climb which is often green. Start on the right and climb to a break where runners protect the moves up and left to easier ground. Oddly the route doesn't climb much like an arete. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Boysen 1977

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Adam Long 24/Jun Lead O/S

Nice moves, soon eases

with Char Williams
bigdrew 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
fuzzysheep01 08/Apr Lead O/S

Brilliant. Spent well over an hour on this - finished just as sun was setting. Two cruxes for me - moving up from the break with gear and then moving up the mid section of arête. Both very technical and committing - top one was a long way above gear too but once worked out wasn't that hard. Really chuffed to get this and very grateful for belayer's patience.

DubyaJamesDubya 08/Apr 2nd dog
Stroppy 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Freaked out a little bit (read a lot) when there was one or two hard moves left and gear was becoming rather redundant. Tom ran round to lower me a rope but by the time he passed it down I had calmed down / manned up enough to crack on.

RKirke 22/Oct/16 2nd O/S
aking12 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with john lynch, Lewis Andrew
john lynch 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

really enjoyed this, really nice moves.

with Lewis Andrew, Ant King
Ed Babs 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Cool as.

with AlexD
AlexD 23/Jul/16 2nd
with Ed
Graeme Hammond 05/May/16 Lead RP

Quick shunt on Chris's rope then thought it best to wait for the temperature to drop after Chris took an impressive big fall getting the good hold on the arête. After this the moves are easier but no push over and you'd hit the ground. Good team tick after a few easy routes to kill time.

with Chris Hindley
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Hot and midgy and bold... Scary

with Roisin
James Oakes 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with noaks
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
bencole ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Just went up to check the gear whilst waiting for a belayer, then kept going. Felt steady, easiest of the classic Gardoms E3's.

with Jasmine, Kamil
pie_eater_pete 05/May/14 Lead O/S
bwestwood 05/May/14 2nd
WillDoyle 17/Mar/14 Lead O/S
thomb 26/May/13 Lead O/S

definitely easier for the tall - still some great moves up there above your gear though!

with Jess
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
danoflynn 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Andrew Barker 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
MNA123 20/May/12 Lead dnf

Took a whipper off this from just below the mega sized ledge, greg did very well to keep me off the ground. I escaped with a ropeburned nose and a bit of whiplash! Got greasy, got scared, got sweaty , weeeee!

olllie26 06/May/12 2nd β
with Gary, Carlos, Kyle
Kyle Rance 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ollie Hoffman
Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
catblack 19/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Skippy
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dunk-RB 20/Oct/10 2nd β
Hidden 20/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd dog
Misha 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Excellent little climb that typifies the brilliance of short gritstone routes. Seconding, Ian found a different way of reaching the good hold on the arete - he approached it from the right hand side, thus avoiding the precarious snatch that I had to do to get to it from the left. The sequence from the good hold is no push over either and goes into increasingly dangerous territory. First tried this back in September 2007 when I was leading E1 - it looks deceptively easy but, unsurprisingly, proved to be too hard for me at the time so I got some air time and bailed. Nice to now make amends.

with Ian B
Hidden 23/May/10 2nd dnf
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead
tiga271 15/May/10 -

Belayed Mark - declined second to ,ahem, save on sight ;-)

with mark20
mark20 15/May/10 Lead O/S

First E3

Shauna 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Jules
JulesV 28/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
dominic lee 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
nathanlee 28/Apr/10 Lead RP

Seconded then led. First E3

with Dom Lee
migs493 17/Apr/10 2nd β
with LO
Boy 25/Oct/09 -
with Fiona Fullwood
Dinger 20/Sep/08 2nd dog

Led clean o/s by Pete. Rockover from the break proved too hard for me on a warm evening. Topped out in the dark.

with Pete Davies
Brown 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Bridget
Fraser13 ??/2008 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 21/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
Stig 20/Oct/07 Lead RP

Previously top-roped in Nov 06.

with Jonathan Teale
Coel Hellier 21/Apr/07 Lead
v.jester ?/Apr/07 Lead β
with alex
Alex Mason 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S

good moves. felt well protected and easy really. like a 5+ boulder problem above bomber cams

with Vash
Toby Dunn 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with dan cheetham
Stig 02/Nov/06 TR O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Ram MkiV 18/Dec/05 Lead O/S

got cold hands. found the crux okish but then got colder hands just after and got scared going to ledge off incut pocket. Class in a glass route.

with Alex Mason
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
bigphil 06/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Nick
chrishedgehog 23/Apr/04 2nd O/S
with Erwin, Snod et al
Chris Reid 20/Mar/02 Lead O/S
ste_d 27/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 27/Jul/98 2nd
Hidden 25/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/97 Lead
goi.ashmore 15/Sep/97 Lead β


with James Tracey
phardman 03/Aug/96 Lead
crossleysm ??/1996 Lead O/S
Yourlead 12/Jun/95 2nd dnf
with Graham Penny
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Roget 14/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
Rich Kirby 23/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd dog
Carl Hamer ??/1987 2nd dog
sadams ?/Sep/86 Lead
with Mark Bonham
andy gittins ??/1985 -
mark-abz 18/Aug/83 TR
Mark Kemball 08/Jan/83 2nd
with Paul Clark
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/80 TR
Hidden 30/Mar/80 TR
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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