26m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb outing up the left-hand side of the biggest face on the cliff. The crux moves are fierce but can be avoided by some scary monkey business in the upper branches of the oak reducing the grade to E2 5c, but not detracting from the quality.
1) 5a, 10m. Climb an overhanging crack with a large jutting block straight into the Bower - easier than it looks.
2) 6a, 16m. Head up the desperate crack springing from the right-hand edge of the Bower to a deep horizontal break (or reach the same place from the tip of the tree). Swing left along the break then climb flutings to the final roof, which is passed spectacularly on superb holds. Glory, glory! © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn (2 pts) 1970. FFA John Allen 1975

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., 50 of the Best, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, James' Winter Grit ticklist, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions

Feedback

UserDateNotes
John Kirk 13 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: My favourite route on grit anywhere.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My favourite route on grit anywhere.
UKB Shark 23 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Gain crux crack from finger holds above the lip on the right. Superb position thereafter.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gain crux crack from finger holds above the lip on the right. Superb position thereafter.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Bethan May Davies 13 Apr 2nd dog This was balls out and really hard! There was no way I could get past the hand jam out of the tree move. Had to be pulled up but still thoroughly enjoyed the climbing on the top half. So exposed!
This was balls out and really hard! There was no way I could get past the hand jam out of the tree move. Had to be pulled up but still thoroughly enjoyed the climbing on the top half. So exposed!
john lynch 13 Apr Lead O/S
Otto 17 Feb Lead dnf Retreat from bower to retrieve gear and second, shall return
Retreat from bower to retrieve gear and second, shall return
Christabel Goode 17 Feb Lead dnf
with Otto
with Otto
mrblack ?? -
Si Witcher 3 Nov, 2018 Lead dog had a rest after suffering flash pump on traverse. Cold and windy. Great moves though. Left Camalot 4 overcammed and stuck at the junction with Suicide Wall.
with Aggie T
had a rest after suffering flash pump on traverse. Cold and windy. Great moves though. Left Camalot 4 overcammed and stuck at the junction with Suicide Wall.
with Aggie T
steveb2006 1 Jul, 2017 2nd Great route Ive previously failed to lead. In the end I just step in a sling and so reach the horizontal break. Martin does some wild moves from the right. Superb climbing on upper wall. Led first pitch which felt tough for 5a.
with Martin S
Great route Ive previously failed to lead. In the end I just step in a sling and so reach the horizontal break. Martin does some wild moves from the right. Superb climbing on upper wall. Led first pitch which felt tough for 5a.
with Martin S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf
dominic lee 8 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt In one, starting up Suicide.
with daniel lee
In one, starting up Suicide.
with daniel lee
Hidden 10 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 14 Dec, 2016 Lead rpt Led both pitches in one with proper first pitch this time
Led both pitches in one with proper first pitch this time
Andy Peak 1 29 Nov, 2016 Lead G/U Fell off leaving the cave with a bad sequence! Went back pulled the ropes and climbed clean, also Led the first pich renitence by accident!
Fell off leaving the cave with a bad sequence! Went back pulled the ropes and climbed clean, also Led the first pich renitence by accident!
Graeme Hammond 29 Nov, 2016 AltLd G/U Andy led first pitch of Renaissance (6a instead of 5a) after I miss read the guide. Led pitch 2. Stupidly weighted the rope after bottling the start but led clean from belay 2nd go and without using the tree :) Abseiled for gear so andy could lead P2 aswell. Fantastic!!!!
Andy led first pitch of Renaissance (6a instead of 5a) after I miss read the guide. Led pitch 2. Stupidly weighted the rope after bottling the start but led clean from belay 2nd go and without using the tree :) Abseiled for gear so andy could lead P2 aswell. Fantastic!!!!
deacondeacon 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S In a one-er. Got boxed on the traverse but just scraped through. Ran out of gear too, but luckily Phil on Suicide Wall through me over a cam. All in all pretty exciting.
In a one-er. Got boxed on the traverse but just scraped through. Ran out of gear too, but luckily Phil on Suicide Wall through me over a cam. All in all pretty exciting.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Fat Boy
with Fat Boy
eel 5 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
with Eszter
with Eszter
hamer89 ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
phil64 ??, 2015 -
GeoffG 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd
with stuart lancaster
with stuart lancaster
Hidden 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2014 -
sgl0jd 22 Apr, 2013 -
tom.e 1 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 7 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
JulesV ??, 2010 Lead O/S
bigie bob 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 11 Sep, 2009 Lead
Mr Sparkle 11 Sep, 2009 2nd
steve_biczyk 2 May, 2009 2nd
with Emma Curry, Aron Urbanics, Bence Lam
with Emma Curry, Aron Urbanics, Bence Lam
andi turner 22 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S Not really sure if I stepped in from the right or went direct, it all seems the same to me!
with Mark Sharratt
Not really sure if I stepped in from the right or went direct, it all seems the same to me!
with Mark Sharratt
The old James turnbull ?May, 2008 Lead one of my fave routes ever now, got it clean and covered it in blood! awsome
with aiden
one of my fave routes ever now, got it clean and covered it in blood! awsome
with aiden
Hidden ??, 2008 -
tuftynick ??, 2008 -
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
Hidden 13 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 25 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with JulesV
with JulesV
Chad123 ?Feb, 2007 AltLd dog Desperate roof crack requiring much blood loss and some aid! Seems tough for E3, even first pitch at 5a is a total sandbag.
with Rik and Viv
Desperate roof crack requiring much blood loss and some aid! Seems tough for E3, even first pitch at 5a is a total sandbag.
with Rik and Viv
Hidden 24 Sep, 2006 AltLd
Boy ??, 2006 -
Gus ??, 2006 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 23 Jan, 2005 Lead One fall trying to get established into crack I think
with Joe Picalli
One fall trying to get established into crack I think
with Joe Picalli
dan gibson ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Dave Bond 17 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
with SiW
with SiW
dominic lee 1 May, 2004 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
with daniel lee
DubyaJamesDubya ?Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
with Nik Howard
with Nik Howard
Dave Musgrove Jnr ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Roget 6 Jul, 2000 Lead rpt reached crack from right. how are you supposed to reach from underneath?
with jon
reached crack from right. how are you supposed to reach from underneath?
with jon
RossG123 ??, 2000 2nd
Tom Briggs ??, 2000 Lead
Mike_d78 12 May, 1999 AltLd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
Hidden 15 Feb, 1998 2nd rpt
sadams 19 Oct, 1997 2nd
with John Fletcher
with John Fletcher
migs493 4 May, 1997 2nd dog
with Steve Blake
with Steve Blake
Hidden ?Oct, 1996 Lead O/S
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
charlesmfrench 26 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1989 Lead
Hidden ??, 1988 -
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
stp 26 Aug, 1985 2nd Seemed dumb not to use the tree so I did thus E2 5c.
Seemed dumb not to use the tree so I did thus E2 5c.
Neil McA 7 Sep, 1984 Lead O/S
with Flog
with Flog
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Andy Nicholson ?Sep, 1982 Lead O/S
with Spike
with Spike
jonathan shepherd ?Aug, 1982 Lead O/S If you can reach the starting holds this is an easy E3 tick
If you can reach the starting holds this is an easy E3 tick
Mark Kemball 6 Jun, 1981 2nd
with John Jefferies
with John Jefferies
duncan ?Aug, 1980 Lead O/S
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Ian Jones ??, 1980 2nd O/S
with Duncan Critchley
with Duncan Critchley
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Andy Edgar ??, 1976 Lead
with Mick Hardwick
with Mick Hardwick
petemeads ??, 1975 2nd Held John's rope on the first free ascent, could not follow it free. Went back a couple of years later to lead it properly - successful, but still hard!
with John Allen
Held John's rope on the first free ascent, could not follow it free. Went back a couple of years later to lead it properly - successful, but still hard!
with John Allen
clanger ??, 1975 -
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set