Rockfax Description
The crack and big pockets on the right lead to an overlap (thread and weird rest) and a pumpy finale up the short wall. Escaping right is easier but is only for those lacking in scruples. © Rockfax

FA. M.Barnicott 1960s 1965

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

hilty 13/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Ardo 23/Sep/17 2nd rpt
admackie 23/Sep/17 Lead

i think i may lack scruples

with Ardo
Toby 28/Aug/17 Lead β
with Nate
ClimbCJH ?/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28/Jul/17 -
with Tim Raffle
samkat 24/Jul/17 TR dog
josefft 24/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Jack PCC
stephenmckenzie 24/Jul/17 TR dog
john lynch 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Bethan D
Paul ablitt 11/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Sarah
williap 10/Jun/17 Lead

Bailed right due to a damp hold coming when pump was high. Moved back around and dried it off but seemed a bit pointless as I was back 1m later at the same spot. Really Good till there tho - slippery directs start

with Pam
mountainremedy 10/Jun/17 2nd

On a drizzly grey day, fell multiple times!

with Will
BlueJohn 01/Jun/17 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Jun/17 Lead rpt
Patrick Hill 31/May/17 Lead O/S
with Rach
Rachael Ellis 31/May/17 2nd O/S
with patrick hill
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead O/S
BlueJohn 28/May/17 2nd
amccann 23/May/17 Lead O/S
with Tilly
matildascott111 23/May/17 2nd dog
with amccann
soph 06/May/17 Lead rpt
with Sadie Renwick
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
lanky 03/Nov/16 Lead dog
with trystam
merlin138 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Seemed a bit of a soft touch for E2, but nice moves and bomber gear throughout.

melv 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/16 2nd
sann1458 15/Aug/16 Lead
with Matt
jb2006 14/Aug/16 Lead rpt
scottcoates 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Chris
Greg Cunningham 08/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with nick warren
Stoney Boy 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt
will9911 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/16 TR
Hidden 25/May/16 TR
James 1 17/May/16 Lead O/S
Ardo 06/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt
WB 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
markalmack 10/Apr/16 2nd O/S
jamiev 03/Apr/16 TR rpt
with Scott Richardson
Tim Rodgers 27/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Jono_LS16 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S

cool route, little bit pumpy placing gear, harder bit was not where I was expecting, thought it would be the initial crack but that was straightforward, found it was the next section. not too hard though :)

with josh
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 08/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Deacon
Maddie 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Fun route

with Dan Hostford, LSMC lot, Alun, remus, Dennis999
oread 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
B.D.Shah 27/Jun/15 TR
Olli-C 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Lou
Dan Hostford 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
tebs 23/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Tim
heywoodj 23/Jun/15 2nd β
Hidden 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S
nai 16/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead rpt
nickcanute 14/Jun/15 2nd
with mit
dr_botnik 12/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Pulled right after the thread, placed a cam and stepped back. Apparently I missed an undercut move. Back around for me!

with Andy
benkelsey 11/Jun/15 Lead dog

Escaped off right to the ledge, pulled back on one move higher. Very hot and sweaty.

the power 06/Jun/15 Lead dnf

DNS haha

Graeme Hammond 02/Jun/15 Lead O/S
LRob 31/May/15 Lead G/U
deacondeacon 27/May/15 Lead O/S
Matt Groom 25/May/15 Lead
with Harry Lewis
AsleepOnBelay 24/May/15 TR

Worth coming back to lead.

with Owen
Cake 24/May/15 TR rpt
with Jeff
harry_lewis 21/May/15 Lead O/S
simon kimber 30/Apr/15 Lead
with Jez Portman
dom94 29/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with shaun
shaunhumphreys 29/Apr/15 Lead β
with Dom
Hidden 28/Apr/15 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Brannock 01/Nov/14 Lead rpt

Got it clean, very pumpy

Hannes B 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt

on Tom's gear

with Tom W
sian88 ?/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Misha 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A rare thing - a soft touch route at Stoney! Didn't feel pumpy but perhaps because I climbed it quickly and only placed four runners. The boulder problem direct start is fun but not 5b! I did a dyne for a jug, cutting loose on it. Presumably the normal start is over on the right, following large holds into the crack. Good moves and a great hip bar rest - hands free if you're careful! A bit eliminate above as there's an easier corner to the right but a good finish up the crack easier than it looks.

with Ed
eduardo 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Escaped right at the top wall, lacking in scruples

OliverRoss 29/Jul/14 2nd β

Had to leave a nut in and remove it when lowering down, but otherwise clean.

with Wil Treasure
Wil Treasure 29/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/14 TR
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd
Matt Cooke 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/14 TR
Nick Sherring 08/Jun/14 TR O/S

training day, nice climb and a no hands rest stiuffed into the wide crack!

jon_gill1 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Martin Wing
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Stoney Boy 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Nick Conway
Derek Furze 02/Apr/14 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
Nickc ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 21/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Andy
Andy Peak 1 21/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Suprer cool no hard moves , just a bit pumpy

Brannock 16/Mar/14 Lead dog

Urghh, pumpy, felt harder than it should have.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd dog
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
vinspin ??/2014 Lead dnf

Pumpy, run out of gas on the top section

with kaz
Cake 25/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Bailed to the right, but the route was pretty slimy

with Matt
James Oswald 25/Sep/13 2nd RP

Nice to do again. Pumpier than I remembered.

with James Rees
Stig 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with james oswald
Hannes B 21/Sep/13 2nd

barefoot, pleasant

with Phil
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead
Chris Wright 25/Aug/13 Lead
masonwoods101 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Rockwarrior 18/Jul/13 -
with Matthew Crowford
Gezzer ?/Jul/13 2nd
stephenhartley ?/Jul/13 2nd β
with Dave Brown
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead β
Owen W-G 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Got pumped on this and stayed pumped all day, useful buttock jam rest in the wide bit in the middle, 2 star

with Nic
samt 25/Jun/13 Lead
with Lucian
Neil McA 16/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with debbie birch
dohart 14/Jun/13 2nd
with zippy
KRB 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Retreated to the cafe during torrential rain then re-visited the crag as the sun came out and found this little gem.

with Chris Bridges
Hidden 21/May/13 Lead rpt
mark20 21/May/13 Lead rpt

Young American start. E2 6c

adamashcroft 13/May/13 TR
eel 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Apharri 06/May/13 2nd β
with Dave Wharton
realbobsmith 24/Apr/13 2nd β
mapperley samurai 20/Apr/13 TR
David Sherratt ??/2013 -
Haydn Jones 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with pep
jkarran 01/Sep/12 Lead

Steep, safe and great fun

with Grant, Pete
GrantB 01/Sep/12 2nd

A good route, but very soft.

Olli-C 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Cool route,

Rachel Slater 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, better than it looks from the ground.

Kazza91 11/Aug/12 -
Dave Foster 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Si 2
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead rpt
TonyF 25/Jul/12 Lead
jshields 25/Jul/12 2nd
with Paul Tretheway, Tony Fidler
Cake 04/Jul/12 TR O/S

Didn't realise it was so safe. I should have saved it for the onsight

Hidden 03/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden 03/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
JulesV 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Jim Slater 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
J.Wells 12/Jun/12 Lead RP

tried this a year or so ago and bottled out onto the ledge. nice to tie up loose ends

James Oswald 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

First E2, really good route. Strenuous up to the initial cracks, tough "lifting the fridge moves". Nice thread, ace route/

with Duncan
tebs 24/May/12 Lead rpt

Did properly this time - a bit eliminate - good ledges are only ever a sideways step away, but good pumpy climbing. Much more in reserve this time.

with Tim
aretherenoneleft 21/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead
simonp ?/May/12 Lead β
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Brannock 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
johncook 07/Apr/12 TR
Martin Haworth 06/Apr/12 Lead β
joe1joe1joe2 09/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First E2 grade. Rocked up to Minus Ten Wall and thought that the line looked great to climb. We had no guidebook...It was great fun, pumpy at parts, but mainly because of my lack of experience at the time. Was very happy to hear it was an E2.

with Darren Burns
chrism225 22/Jan/12 Lead dnf

too wet :(

with mark
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead
Hannes B 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Sam M
Si dH 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Alison Ingleby
bigdrew 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Followed this ages ago. Stayed direct this time. Pretty pumpy - Not the best first route choice!

with Rich R
catblack 03/Aug/11 2nd
with Skippy
James Oakes 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Bill Lawrence 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

easy moves, heard and seen that it was pumpy but felt fairly steady. nice

with Guy VG, andy gravestock
Wood for Trees 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Pumped right arm, couldn't remember any moves and couldn't even put the thread in so proved a bit of a buzz

with billy
nai 28/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 28/Jul/11 Lead
with Dave
drcorbasisgod 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
cem 24/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Dave Gilling, Chris Parson
Sidekick 13/Jul/11 Lead dog

One rest. Damn it. Really nice route.

Hidden 13/Jul/11 2nd dog
Matthew reid 25/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Chris Wright 29/May/11 Lead
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead
tuftynick 24/May/11 2nd rpt
with ben winston, rich cross
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead
Chris Craggs 10/May/11 2nd

Pumpy beast!

with Graham Parkes
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Garry Jackson
jamiev 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

After leading it, tr'd twice for a nice pump in the rain.

with Tim Parkinson
Anthony Dixon 05/Mar/11 TR
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead

On Andy's gear.

with Matt Reid, Andy S
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
i_a_coops 14/Dec/10 Lead β
jacobjacob 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S
shafiq lalloo 21/Nov/10 2nd


james.lane 27/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Patrick
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Alan James - UKC and UKH 12/Sep/10 2nd
gingerwolf 11/Sep/10 TR O/S
bigdrew 29/Aug/10 2nd dog
Matt Fry 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
haydng 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mike, Hannah
migs493 28/Aug/10 2nd β

And Hannah. Nice route but easy to escape at the top.

with Haydn
galpinos 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Ben & Phil
DaveFidler 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

First E2, but it's not E2.

with Dad
TonyF 01/Aug/10 2nd
with David
belay bunny turned bad 25/Jul/10 2nd
with loundsy
decs 25/Jul/10 2nd
with Bart
tebs 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Think i don't get the tick as i had a rest on the ledges out right and missed the undercut move. Seemed entirely logical at the time. pumpy route

with Dunc
Oliver Branagan 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

1st quarter of route lead on some of Tom's gear. Placed an early runner too before leading the rest on mine. Feel fair taking the onsight as i'd worked through the beggining from the ground with Tom on his attempt. with it being a get on, climb back down 'job for us anyway. - Underated for sure!

with Tommy M
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Simon Davis 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Toby Denny
Bry 16/Jul/10 TR β
with Simon
Dogmusher 15/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with charles moreton
cem 15/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mark O'Neill
Hidden 28/Jun/10 Lead rpt
philhilo 19/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Seconded it then got straight on for the lead. Easy though steeper than it looks - or gravity was sucking hard that day. Great hands off rest. As much gear as you want.

Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
nacnud 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 TR O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd
DavidR 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Not sure I finished the route as it should be - may have stepped off the top wall a bit too early.

Hidden 05/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
jowgli 28/May/10 Lead RP
Speeddemonsi 26/May/10 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 20/May/10 Lead O/S

First route at Stoney ever and it felt really good. Altough I believe there's better. This only gets one star... I thought it was cool

Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
smudge 12/May/10 Lead rpt
Paul ablitt 03/May/10 Lead rpt
with Sarah
metal arms 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mark20 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead
smudge 16/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Phil Baker
Hidden 08/Sep/09 2nd
leepip 03/Sep/09 Lead β
with hairy tom
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 2nd rpt
James Thacker 21/Aug/09 Lead
masa-alpin 02/Aug/09 2nd β

My first route in Stoney.

with Sirion
miastacey 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
DavidEvans 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jules Vulliamy
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
tuftynick 21/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with nick warren
simon kimber 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/09 Lead rpt
amstel 17/May/09 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/May/09 Lead
Sankey 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Luke
gingerkate 13/Apr/09 2nd dog

All moves, but fell/rested several times.

with M
Hidden 09/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Wood for Trees 22/Feb/09 TR O/S

rope was up as Al had abbed down, great moves that had me gasping, placing gear would have been a major problem due to completely knackered climber.

with Lee, Steve, Rob and AL
Alex Mason 22/Feb/09 Lead rpt

Have failed on this a few years ago, rode the pump on this one.

Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead rpt
smudge 12/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Phil
Phil1967 12/Sep/08 2nd

1 Fall - Straight back on

with Dan
Alan James - UKC and UKH 06/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Phil Jennings 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
simonfife 01/Jun/08 TR dog
with Tonny Madden
Hidden 26/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Brown 23/Apr/08 TR O/S


Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead rpt
Al Evans ??/2008 -
pezzerrr 25/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S
chris j 06/Oct/07 Lead RP
with Doug
Toby Dunn 24/Aug/07 2nd
with Ruth
Hidden 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead rpt
doug s 03/Jun/07 Lead
with mike
Hidden 17/Mar/07 Lead β
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/07 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Iggy_B 30/May/06 Lead O/S

This climb needs 2* and is better than casual sex!

with Simon Troop
Hidden 20/May/06 Lead dog
Ram MkiV 19/May/06 Lead O/S

nice climbing. Stayed on the left hand face throughout.

with Alex
JulesV ??/2006 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
nige 30/Oct/04 Lead
with nick colton
Phill Mitch ??/2004 Lead O/S
with john d
Hidden 03/Jun/03 Lead
skygodley 06/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with SarahM
Hidden ?/May/01 2nd
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Dave
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Roget 05/Apr/99 Solo rpt
Chris Ellis 12/Sep/98 Lead
with Chris Barnes
Hidden 28/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/98 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/97 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/97 Lead dog
tlr 18/Nov/96 2nd
with Andy M
Hidden 14/May/95 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/95 2nd
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?/Sep/94 Lead O/S

x1 fall.

NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
nai 15/Mar/94 Lead
with UCL CC
Roget 20/Feb/94 Lead O/S
roncaves 25/Jul/93 2nd
Hidden 16/May/93 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/92 Lead
Hidden 27/Oct/91 2nd
Hidden 27/Oct/91 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/91 2nd
Neil R 08/Sep/90 2nd
with Mark
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jan/89 -
Bulls Crack ??/1989 Lead O/S
with AM
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
babymoac 04/Dec/88 2nd
with Alan S, Angus
sadams 17/Jun/85 Lead RP
with unseconded
Chris Wright 12/Mar/85 Lead
neilh 04/Nov/84 Lead dog
with dave croker
charlesmfrench 07/Nov/82 2nd O/S
Neil McA 14/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with Andrew Gomersell
Hidden ??/1981 -
uphillnow 01/Jun/80 2nd
with john stanger
Andy Say ??/1975 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead O/S
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 63
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set