Rockfax Description
A classic of the 60s, which was way ahead of its time.
1) 6b, 15m. A boulder-problem start leads to some fiddly flakes and small wires - hard to place. Move up to a peg then step right and make a long stretch for the undercut. Pull over and climb more easily to a cave belay, Friend 3 useful. Abseil off (indifferent belay) or safer and for the full tick ...
2) 5a, 10m. Step right to an easy, but well-positioned groove and the summit meadows. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1967. An awesomely impressive ascent for the time - the initial roof is probably a V5 or V6 boulder problem.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

James Oakes 26/Jun Lead O/S
with Henry Francis
Seb Grieve ??/2017 -
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13/Jul/16 Lead G/U

3rd go - Deacon forgot his harness so belayed with the rope round his waist for the full historical tick. Although the start is hard I found getting in to the undercuts the crux.

with Deacon
malx 20/Apr/16 Lead β
Hidden ??/2016 Lead
James Thacker ??/2016 -
Stoney Boy 05/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Lead the second pitch. Still a very good/intimidating route.

with Nick Conway
Nickc ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
LRob 31/May/15 Lead G/U
markalmack 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with little tom
tim newton 25/Apr/15 Lead dog

Onsighted the start and then got a bit shut down by the move to the undercut. Did it eventually but found it desperate.

JBO 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Very pleased to get the boulder start onsight, only to find the moves going past the undercut much more strenuous! Total classic.

Canyak ??/2015 -
realbobsmith ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
MartinPL 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

struggled on second crux, couldn't reach the underhold that next to loop but route climbed on sight

Brannock 29/Jun/14 2nd dog

Hard start

Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
JayAyBee ??/2014 Lead dog

Did the crux easily, then couldn't commit to the move over the overlap without resting. Disappointing!

with Pat
J.Wells 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ima Nahumury
samt 03/Sep/13 Lead dog

Pissed the start and failed completely to reach the undercut. Just miles off. Arms are too short!! Dogged past and finished easily. Frustrating.

blaza1 22/May/13 Lead O/S

Few goes on the start but climbed the rest onsight, wouldn't want to be much shorter!

Apharri 01/May/13 Lead β
with Jim Gayler
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead

No pads (although I would have liked some).

Haydn Jones 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

thought the crux was the overlap, found the start easy

with pep
climbingsheep 30/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Mike Watson
mwatson 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Howard Lawledge 14/May/12 Lead
with Jack
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
steve_yo 13/Aug/11 Lead
with smacks
harvie 28/Apr/11 Lead
with Jo Mac
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden 08/Sep/10 Lead
dominic lee 15/Aug/10 Lead rpt

finished up menopause.

DaveFidler 10/Aug/10 Sent dnf

Onsighted bouder start.

rikbattye 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Felt very steady (being tall helps). Two cruxs with really easy climbing in between. Didnt bother fiddling with gear apart from wire at begining, just clip pegs and then tat for the undercut moves.

dan gibson 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
ellis ??/2010 2nd

A few swings at the start

with Tom Bridgeland
Brown 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Henry
The old James turnbull 30/Jun/08 Lead
with nicos
willackers 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Mills
Hidden ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
andy gravestock 29/Dec/07 Sent rpt

bouldery start with a powerfull exit really good. so pleased now to have finally gone back to tick this one having failed in 2007 felt so much easier still what a great route.

with steve, allex
Hidden 27/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 16/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Dave Ferguson
Alex Mason 07/Jun/07 Lead

Seconded with aid about 3 months ago! Lead clean today was awesome and didnt find it very hard! :)

with Vash
v.jester ?/Jun/07 2nd
with alex
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 17/May/07 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
Ram MkiV 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S

never had to lay down power like that on a trad route before, brilliant

with Al
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Dave Bond 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
JulesV 05/May/06 2nd
with toby dunn
tuftynick ??/2006 2nd O/S
with pete hurley
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 05/Oct/02 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2002 -
Hidden 25/Mar/00 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2000 -
GeoffG 22/May/99 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 19/Jul/98 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Roget 31/Oct/93 Lead O/S
with jon
crossleysm ?/Sep/93 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 12/Jul/93 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 22/Aug/92 Lead rpt
Cowflinger 12/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Billg ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/91 Lead
Chris Wright 17/Mar/90 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1990 -
Hidden 10/Jul/88 Lead dog
jon 18/May/88 Lead
with phil r
Paul Clarke ??/1988 Lead
with Leeds Crew
Bruce Kerr 14/Jul/87 Lead
with Colin Gilchrist
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1987 -
sadams 05/May/85 Lead β
with John Dunne
Dave Musgrove 08/Sep/84 Lead O/S

Broke a hold and fell off well above the crux. In fact had to climb the crux twice because of it!

with Kim Greenald
Neil R ??/1984 2nd dog
with Ian
Mike Owen 15/Nov/83 Lead O/S
with Joe Picalli
TonyF ??/1983 2nd O/S
with Tony Cox
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead dnf

Too short for the upper bulge.

with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
redjerry ?/Oct/82 Lead O/S
with Bob Duncan
Pedro50 04/Oct/81 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/81 Lead
Mark Kemball 10/Aug/80 Lead
with John Jefferies
duncan ?/May/80 Lead β

The late, famous Ed Wood showed me how to do the start

Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead

Work the start at the end of one day at the crag. Played on it again the following week to get it wired. Led it the next week - breeches and no chalk.

with Nigel Baker
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
uphillnow ??/1980 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/79 Lead G/U
Hidden ??/1979 Lead
Steve Bell ?/Oct/78 Lead O/S
with Paul Newman
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High 6c
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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