The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.
In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end
19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.
Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.
Reason: Nesting Birds
House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.
Rockfax Description
Climb up to a groove and follow this to two possible finishes. Left is harder but better. The tricky move for the top is shared with both finishes and best done to the right of the lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Dave Williams, Geoff Middlehurst 2002. Including all the finishes..
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gaz_40 | 30 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Found it pretty hard for the grade (did get lost part way up), top move is really tricky, finally got it from the right | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found it pretty hard for the grade (did get lost part way up), top move is really tricky, finally got it from the right |
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Tom1 | 17 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Tom was a little concerned about the bolt spacing and took the right hand finish. Definitely 6a for the short. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tom was a little concerned about the bolt spacing and took the right hand finish. Definitely 6a for the short. |
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howlingbaboon | 7 May, 2006 |
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βeta: I took the left hand finish (left spanner at home) and it was pretty scary moving over the overhang and clipping the last bolt before going over the top, rack a QD on your left, I forgot. Its a good move though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I took the left hand finish (left spanner at home) and it was pretty scary moving over the overhang and clipping the last bolt before going over the top, rack a QD on your left, I forgot. Its a good move though. |
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Chris the Tall | 13 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: I think this route just follows the ramp (as for Write Back Home) and finishes direct with a delicate move over the overlap. 6a | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I think this route just follows the ramp (as for Write Back Home) and finishes direct with a delicate move over the overlap. 6a |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)