UKC Logbook - 'Peckling Fever'

16m.

Rockfax Description
The short wall, crack and tricky pull at the overlap. Originally finished leftwards at 5c. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Originally trad at E1 5b, it became a bit easier after rock broke off above the overhang.

FA. Nick Taylor , Alan Taylor, Matt Silcox 06/Feb/2000.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Horseshoe Star Quality

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User	Date		Notes
nickcanute	9 Apr	Show βeta βeta: Goes direct through top overhang then left to lower off. This has now become easier after a new hold appeared. I did this trad at E1 5c originally but it wasn't me who retro-bolted it so don't blame me for the bolt spacing. However, first bolt protects crux then steady moves to second bolt, which is high to protect moves above above the ledge. 5+ was original grade but more recent climbs have had softer grading so probably this one should be given 6a.
Show beta βeta: Goes direct through top overhang then left to lower off. This has now become easier after a new hold appeared. I did this trad at E1 5c originally but it wasn't me who retro-bolted it so don't blame me for the bolt spacing. However, first bolt protects crux then steady moves to second bolt, which is high to protect moves above above the ledge. 5+ was original grade but more recent climbs have had softer grading so probably this one should be given 6a.
Graeme Hammond	6 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Dangerous gap between 1st and 2nd bolt, not that much better bolted above, felt harder than 5C!! A poor route.
Show beta βeta: Dangerous gap between 1st and 2nd bolt, not that much better bolted above, felt harder than 5C!! A poor route.
eduardo	12 Sep, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Left hand finish at the top as straight through the overlap looked far too pumpy for the grade. Big loose block at the right of the crack section low down, the huge block you need to pull on for the direct finish doesn't look attached to anything either.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Left hand finish at the top as straight through the overlap looked far too pumpy for the grade. Big loose block at the right of the crack section low down, the huge block you need to pull on for the direct finish doesn't look attached to anything either.
Dainius	22 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Loose holds marked with X	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Loose holds marked with X
roger whetton	13 Sep, 2004	Show βeta βeta: If you follow the route as described in Gary's guide you'll end up on the left hand finish to Senter Home (6a+) - rather harder than 5+!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: If you follow the route as described in Gary's guide you'll end up on the left hand finish to Senter Home (6a+) - rather harder than 5+!