UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing up the face to an exciting finale up the hanging tower. There are enough bolts, but only just. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Conway 1985. Bolted in 2002..

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport for mortals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob Kelly 20 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Take care with the broken rock at half height. I ripped a brick sized undercut off today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take care with the broken rock at half height. I ripped a brick sized undercut off today.
goi.ashmore 20 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Its ok bolted since the BR was put in between the staples at 3/5ths height
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its ok bolted since the BR was put in between the staples at 3/5ths height

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Private Prosecution

Grade: 6c ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)

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