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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 62
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 333m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Theo Moore on Summat Outanowt (7a) at Smalldale © Alan James

Crag features

An open quarry with an impressive 20m+ central wall and smaller, lower quality walls either side. The main wall offers excellent mileage at f7a and above on generally sound, well bolted rock (but be careful with those large flakes and overhangs!). Pick of the bunch are Lost Contact, Can Boys (both f7a) and Virtual Insanity (F7b).

Approach notes

Approaching from Peak Forest park on the track leading to the brickworks at the left-hand end of the quarry. Follow the grassy track alongside the fence of the brickworks to a smaller barbed wire fence at the corner of a 'lorry park'. Nip over this and head off diagonally (avoiding the large chained dogs) to the easily visible quarry (2 mins).

As of June 2019, the lorry park owner has requested that climbers do not approach through the lorry park due to increased usage of the park. Instead follow the above instructions, cutting diagonally through the trees, there are trees with ribbons attached along the most direct route.

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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Lots of loose rock when we visited last weekend, even on the Main Wall. Belay to the side if you visit.
RosieYates - 09/May/18
The main wall has great technical climbing and sound rock but further to the right of the crag, on the easier wall - it was coming away in chunks. The Main Wall is worth a visit for sure but the rest? Never again.
mrchewy - 17/Aug/15
This crag is terrible, terrible bolting and terrible rock! At least 3 football sized blocks went today
ashtond6 - 16/Aug/15
This is a really good crag. The rock quality as good as anywhere on Peak limestone and because, for some reason, its not that popular the rock isn't the slightest bit polished. It was surprising to visit on a dry weekend in May and find only one party on the crag. Even more surprising was that none of the routes on Main Wall, the best bit, had any chalk on them. This suggests they hadn't been done this year. Most of the routes were regeared a couple of years ago I believe so no problems with the gear that I've found. It's also only 5 minutes walk from the car. Only downsides are possibly a bit midgy in the evenings (but I guess many crags in the Peak can be like that.) Midweek I think the noise from the quarry can be a little intrusive. Other than that its well worth a visit or three.
stp - 13/May/14
Was there on Saturday. Agree about the spaced bolts. Most are 3-4m apart and some considerably more than that. However the rock appeared sound where we were climbing (although it didn't look it).
John_Hat - 25/Jul/10
I wouldn't say that the routes on Going Straight Wall were "well bolted". It all depends on your definition of "well bolted" is - the bolts are in good condition or close together. The former is true but there are some spaced bolts in places.
Neil Binns - 13/Jun/05
Careful with the loose rock - almost every route I've done here has a few disposable features. My partner pulled a half-metre-long block off 'Open Season', which clattered him on the way down. Fortunately only minor injuries! Helmets and standing well back are advisable!
Carl Smethurst - 23/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Wall
2 Beastiality 6a  
3 Killer Bee 6c  
4 The Ladybird Killers 6c+ 1
5 Six Bee or Not Six Be 6c+ 1
6 Bee Movie 6a+  
7 To Bee a Star 6a 3
8 Terry and June 6c 3
9 Squawkietawkie 7a 5
10 Tawk the Squawk 7a *  
11 Obelix 7a+ 4
12 Can'tgetmyfix 6c+  
13 Getafix 7a+ * 6
14 Reservoir Frogs 6c * 69
15 Play it again Sam HVS 5a 2
16 First Offence 6c+ * 76
17 When Reason Sleeps 7a+ * 40
18 Stainsby Girls 7b * 19
19 Virtual Insanity 7b ** 103
20 Soft Centre 7a+ * 46
21 Lies and Deception 7a * 67
22 Summat Outanowt 7a * 16
Climb name Grade
23 Lost Contact 7a+ ** 132
24 Soggy Biscuits 7b+ ** 70
25 Can Boys 7a ** 160
26 Can Can Girls Can't 6c * 50
27 Little Lady
E3 5c 3
28 Bedlam 6c+ 21
29 Noisy Neighbours 7a 2
30 Forewarned and forearmed * 7a 1
  Crystal Wall
32 Fringe Meeting
6a 4
33 Owd Biddy Flogger 6a 19
34 Diddyogger HVS 5a 1
35 Floggin' A Dead Horse 6b * 16
36 The Crystal Maze 6c+ ** 29
37 Hollow Inside 6b+ * 21
38 The Quartz Tricycle 6b+ * 22
39 Friezian 6b * 17
40 Lady Luck 6a+ * 79
41 Crooked
E1 5b  
42 Last Exit Going South
HVS 5a  
43 Eeonefivebee
HVS 5a  
44 Just Passing Through 6b 101
Climb name Grade
45 Sock it to 'em 5c * 194
  Going Straight Wall
47 Stone the Crows 6b 15
48 Blockheads 6c 1
49 Learn the Lingo 6c * 36
50 Mr Love Pants 6b+ ** 135
51 Shanacie 6b ** 212
52 Riding the Bullet 6c ** 159
53 Open Season 6a+ ** 208
54 More Chattery Teeth 6b * 150
55 Upminster Kid 6b * 80
56 Going Straight 6c ** 146
57 Friend 15 6a+ * 167
58 Shame on You 6a+ * 160
59 The Awesome Foursome 6b+ 17
60 Single Decker 6b+ 29
61 Triple Sec 6b 4
62 More for Four
63 Double Wammy 6b+ 5
64 Single Malt E2 5b *  
65 Too Fat to Tag E1 5b 2
  Peak Dale Quarry
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stig