Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NW

Smalldale © Morgan Woods

Crag features

An open quarry with an impressive 20m+ central wall and smaller, lower quality walls either side. The main wall offers excellent mileage at f7a and above on generally sound, well bolted rock (but be careful with those large flakes and overhangs!). Pick of the bunch are Lost Contact, Can Boys (both f7a) and Virtual Insanity (F7b).

Approach notes

Approaching from Peak Forest park on the track leading to the brickworks at the left-hand end of the quarry. Follow the grassy track alongside the fence of the brickworks to a smaller barbed wire fence at the corner of a 'lorry park'. Nip over this and head off diagonally (avoiding the large chained dogs) to the easily visible quarry (2 mins).
Or- Drive into lorry park. Have a friendly chat with the owner. He will show you where to park, chain the wolves up and wish you a happy day's climbing - top bloke!
[06May07] Take care if parking in the lorry park and leaving late. Following the above advice I parked there but no-one around to talk to. Leaving at about 10pm found I was locked in - fortunately the owner came along at just the right time and let me out. Apparently they have had problems with people stealing things off the lorries at night forcing them to close the gates. Best to make sure the owner knows you have parked there!

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The main wall has great technical climbing and sound rock but further to the right of the crag, on the easier wall - it was coming away in chunks. The Main Wall is worth a visit for sure but the rest? Never again.
mrchewy - 17/Aug/15
This crag is terrible, terrible bolting and terrible rock! At least 3 football sized blocks went today
ashtond6 - 16/Aug/15
This is a really good crag. The rock quality as good as anywhere on Peak limestone and because, for some reason, its not that popular the rock isn't the slightest bit polished. It was surprising to visit on a dry weekend in May and find only one party on the crag. Even more surprising was that none of the routes on Main Wall, the best bit, had any chalk on them. This suggests they hadn't been done this year. Most of the routes were regeared a couple of years ago I believe so no problems with the gear that I've found. It's also only 5 minutes walk from the car. Only downsides are possibly a bit midgy in the evenings (but I guess many crags in the Peak can be like that.) Midweek I think the noise from the quarry can be a little intrusive. Other than that its well worth a visit or three.
stp - 13/May/14
Was there on Saturday. Agree about the spaced bolts. Most are 3-4m apart and some considerably more than that. However the rock appeared sound where we were climbing (although it didn't look it).
John_Hat - 25/Jul/10
I wouldn't say that the routes on Going Straight Wall were "well bolted". It all depends on your definition of "well bolted" is - the bolts are in good condition or close together. The former is true but there are some spaced bolts in places.
Neil Binns - 13/Jun/05
Careful with the loose rock - almost every route I've done here has a few disposable features. My partner pulled a half-metre-long block off 'Open Season', which clattered him on the way down. Fortunately only minor injuries! Helmets and standing well back are advisable!
Carl Smethurst - 23/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Wall
2 Beastiality 6a  
3 Killer Bee 6c  
4 The Ladybird Killers 6c+ 1
5 Six Bee or Not Six Be 6c+ 1
6 Bee Movie 6a+  
7 To Bee a Star 6a 1
8 Terry and June 6c 3
9 Squawkietawkie 7a 4
10 Tawk the Squawk 7a *  
11 Obelix 7a+ 2
12 Can'tgetmyfix 6c+  
13 Getafix 7a+ * 4
14 Reservoir Frogs 6c * 54
15 Play it again Sam HVS 5a 2
16 First Offence 6c+ * 54
17 When Reason Sleeps 7a+ * 28
18 Stainsby Girls 7b * 14
19 Virtual Insanity 7b ** 69
20 Soft Centre 7a+ * 30
21 Lies and Deception 7a * 53
22 Summat Outanowt 7a * 11
23 Lost Contact 7a+ ** 108
24 Soggy Biscuits 7b+ ** 55
25 Can Boys 7a ** 121
26 Can Can Girls Can't 6c * 31
27 Little Lady
-
E3 5c 3
28 Bedlam 6c+ 19
29 Noisy Neighbours 7a 2
30 Fringe Benefit
-
6a 4
31 Forewarned and forearmed * 7a 1
  Crystal Wall
33 Owd Biddy Flogger 6a 17
34 Floggin' A Dead Horse 6b * 13
35 The Crystal Maze 6c+ ** 21
36 Hollow Inside 6b+ * 16
37 The Quartz Tricycle 6b+ * 18
38 Friezian 6b * 13
39 Lady Luck 6a+ * 59
40 Just Passing Through 6b 77
41 Sock it to 'em 5c * 148
  Going Straight Wall
43 Stone the Crows 6b 13
44 Learn the Lingo 6c * 23
45 Mr Love Pants 6b+ ** 99
46 Shanacie 6b ** 158
47 Riding the Bullet 6c ** 118
48 Open Season 6a+ ** 147
49 More Chattery Teeth 6b * 112
50 Upminster Kid 6b * 62
51 Going Straight 6c ** 107
52 Friend 15 6a+ * 116
53 Shame on You 6a+ * 110
54 The Awesome Foursome 6b+ 13
55 Single Decker 6b+ 26
56 Triple Sec 6b 4
57 Double Wammy 6b+ 4
58 Single Malt E2 5b *  
59 Too Fat to Tag E1 5b 2
60 Diddyogger * HVS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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