170m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular route with great (and sharp!) rock. With the walk round option on pitch 5, it makes the whole route only 5+. Although it can be reached from above by four abseils (35m, 25m, 35m, 45m - see topo) it is easier (and less gripping) to walk/scramble to the base of the cliff (via the Cala del Testos if required) then traverse to the start of the route.
1) 4+, 40m. Start with an easy pitch traversing diagonally right on a slab.
2) 5, 15m. Climb up to a groove and then left to the belay.
3) 5+, 30m. An S-shaped pitch, ending in a little cave on an exposed pillar.
4) 5, 25m. Exposed! Climb out of the cave with 100m of fresh air below you, then up a pillar. The belay is higher up on a block 3m above a bushy ledge.
5) 6a+, 25m. Climb up a short chimney, then move right onto a slab to get to the top of a big flake. A couple of fingery moves reach the next stance.
5a) 40m. Pitch 5 can be avoided by scrambling round to the left via a short section of fixed rope.
6) 5+, 35m. Climb up right for 5m, then another 15m up a rib to a shallow groove. The block above is climbed on its right-hand side, then traverse horizontally left for 6m, around an edge. Move up to the belay. © Rockfax

Mark Eddy 09/Mar AltLd
Sam2257 08/Mar Lead O/S

superb! a modern classic featuring some of the best climbing at the grade i've ever come across

with Clare
ads 07/Mar AltLd
rachelpearce01 03/Mar Lead rpt
with Jack Meeks
Mark Eddy 23/Feb Lead
with Stig
Stiga 23/Feb 2nd
Mark Eddy 31/Jan Lead

Showing Anna & Bo around this amazing cliff. Anna climbing with Kate, whilst I climbed with Bo

with Bo
Hidden 31/Jan AltLd
Hidden 08/Jan AltLd
Mark Eddy 08/Jan Lead

Guiding. As always it's a lot of fun this route. Combining it with the Moorhuhn Winter Edition finish improves it overall and about the same grade

SarahConnor 25/Dec/16 AltLd
with MNC
MNC 25/Dec/16 AltLd

Hot christmas day ascent very enjoyable route

with Sarah
Hidden 04/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
rachelpearce01 04/Dec/16 AltLd rpt

Lucked out escaping the rain on this !

with George Sanderson
Mark Eddy 19/Nov/16 -
with Rachel Pearce
rachelpearce01 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Mark eddy
martin one 17/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

p2 and p4 lead great route will become a classic in years to come

with ssutton, Adam C
ssutton 17/Nov/16 AltLd

Led pitch 1 and 5, nice fun route

with martin one, Adam
Mark Eddy 29/Oct/16 Lead
with Ann Leese
Hidden 17/Oct/16 Lead
Fenda 20/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Mark Eddy 20/Feb/16 Lead

Guiding for Matt & Hanan on their first sea cliff experience. Brilliant day, warm and sunny, big waves below added to atmosphere

samwillo 06/Jan/16 Solo

Largely immaculate rock and great positions. ~40 mins

Steve Clegg ?/Jan/16 AltLd
with Ted
PAJames ??/2016 -
Hidden 21/Dec/15 AltLd
Hidden 12/Nov/15 Lead O/S
Mark Eddy 12/Nov/15 Lead
Hidden 24/Feb/15 AltLd
Hidden 24/Feb/15 AltLd
Lea84 08/Jan/15 2nd

fantastic climb. Had to scramble round the 6a+ pitch due to loose boulders making it unsafe.

with Kate Ayres, Mark Eddy
afrosam 05/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Did as part of a link up, Silberruecken, pitch 5 of Sonjannika then Moorhuhn

adrianj 02/Jan/15 AltLd

Parked at top and walked around to the bottom, which is quite a long way.

Hidden 02/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
redshapedfriday 29/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Debs Climber
Heike 28/Dec/14 AltLd

Great climb with Mark on a very windy day. Mostly sheltered til the top pitch from northwesterlies. i had to cling on for dear life in between gusts and then sprint for the next bolt. Excellent day out, though.

with Mark Gorin
TraverseKing 26/Dec/14 Lead
tmawer 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Last 2 pitches to finish other route. Not 6a+.

with chris king
alpinebutterfly 08/Jan/13 2nd
with S Guest, M Eddy
BelleVedere 07/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Climbed as a three. Used the walk around (fixed rope showing signs of wear) and the 5+ finish. Really lovely route on great rock all the way (Three Stars for sure); an excellent job on the equipping front too. I led last pitch.

Hidden ?/Jan/13 2nd
Mark Eddy ?/Jan/13 AltLd

Cracking day out, what a great route. Climbed again dec 13 during our next visit. On both occasions it was really hot!

bsparky 27/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitches 1,3 & 6. Ralph lead 2,4 & 5 as it was the 6a+. Beautiful climb. Took four hours with a bit of faff on my behalf between pitches 3 & 4. When the logbook says exposed, they meant it!

Ralphus 27/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
lithos 21/Apr/12 Lead

inspired route finding up the cliff finding a line through the steepness. expect rope drag at the top !

with Pete Bradshaw, julie
Simon Caldwell 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Utterly brilliant, the highlight of the week. Carmen led pitches 1, 3, and 6, I led 2 and 4. We took the walking version of 5, but the rest was so continually good that this barely detracted from the overall experience.

with Carmen
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 24/Mar/12 AltLd
judith neaves 24/Mar/12 AltLd
chriisu 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Awesome 3rd pitch! Very exposed!

mtempest 16/Feb/12 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 16/Feb/12 AltLd

With Moorhuhn Winter Edition finish.

afrosam 19/Jan/12 Lead O/S
ClimbingWithPassion ??/2012 -
ClimbingWithPassion ??/2012 -
Peter Metcalfe 25/Dec/11 AltLd

Scrambled round 6a+ pitch using the fixed ropes, making grade 5+ overall

with Terry Sullivan, Cath Sullivan
Hidden 10/Nov/11 AltLd
stouffer 14/Sep/11 AltLd

Led 1,2 & 4 inc. cave pitch - wow! Concentration on said pitch wasn't aided by the boatload of bikini-clad Dutch girls floating around below!

climbingxcat 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Fab climb, did P1,3,6, loads of rope drag on 6! On 3 use the tat - it's been placed where a bolt would be 'nice'. R did the 6a+ pitch for us all!

with Alex and Rob, Brian
Hidden 02/Apr/11 AltLd
brianrunner 01/Mar/11 AltLd

Excellent route. Nice approach down a protected gully and good sustained climbing, more balancy than steep. The cave stance and exit are great.

with martina
MoWalker3 29/Dec/09 AltLd
with Quiet Ian, Jo Waterton
Dave Lacey 28/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
jak.kelly 28/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
gjd 26/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

RockFax supplement has Winter edition wrongly described. That is the orange chimney/groove.

with mary stewart, Jim at Craigdhu
mike fenwick ?/Apr/09 AltLd
with James Harvey, Rich johnson
mark4344 15/Mar/09 -

Fantastic route on great rock. Awesome cave position and great climb out onto face. Views and setting made it one of the best climbs around

with Michel
Hidden 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
karly54 04/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Peter Goodwin
auld al ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set