UKC

250m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
240m. The route starts at the toe of a small buttress with a nice warm-up pitch, well equipped with ring bolts. It is one of the best routes in this area and the final pitch is outstanding. It is gaining in popularity but is still often quiet outside July and August.
Approach - From Planpraz, follow signs for 'Lac Cornu' and pass under Hotel California. Continue for 100m then turn left and Scramble up the grassy slopes below the route. There are lots of cairns and the odd section of vague path but otherwise it is a somewhat awkward uphill grind to the start of the climbing.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb the slabby corner and the rib above to reach a grassy ledge. Cross this and climb another 5m buttress before stepping right to a peg and bolt belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Follow the arête above the belay, staying just to the right of the crest, on positive holds to a steep pull through a vertical wall on thin holds. This leads to a slab, which is followed rightwards to a belay on a thin ledge.
3) 5b, 40m. Go up and right 5m from the belay and climb the excellent wall above. Move left at the top and follow the rib for 5m to a long ledge with the belay at the right-hand end.
4) 6a, 25m. The slab above the belay leads to a fantastic pillar, which is climbed on its crest, or just to the right, and leads to a grassy ledge. The belay is 4m to the left.
5) 5a, 25m. Cross the gully behind the belay and climb the rib above for 12m. When this ends, step across another gully to the left and climb the steep 4m wall on the far side of it onto slabs above. These lead easily to the belay.
Make a slightly awkward 14m abseil from here down to boulders and then walk/scramble north for 100m, hugging the steep walls on the left, to the next pitch which starts at a series of steep cracks in a grey wall.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the cracks either on the left (5c) or the right (6a) - neither is a pushover - to easier slabs above and follow these to an uncomfortable hanging belay.
7) 5a, 20m. Carry on up the slab in much the same vein, then follow the crest of the ridge above. When this ends, step off left, walk across and come back right to an exposed ledge with a belay at the far right end.
8) 6a, 40m. THE Pitch! Climb the arête above the belay until, after four bolts, it leads you rightwards through a little steepening and onto the southwest ridge of the Clocher de Planpraz. Follow this in a fantastic position to the summit.
Descent - Walk down to Planpraz on the Clocher-Clochetons approach path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Great views of the Mont Blanc Massif in a wild and remote setting.

Take the Brevent telepherique to the middle station of PlanPraz. Take the path to lac Cornu (15mins) then take the first combe on the left. Total approach 30mins. High above to the right you should see a tower which is the summit.

Last pitch is either 6a+ or 5b - I would recommend the 6a+ - great feeling of exposure.

Make sure you dont miss the last telecabin down - its a long walk !

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+).


ClimberDateStyle
Dougbart 29/Sep/17 AltLd
with Ruban
Hubert Feret 11/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Lucian Papuc
MarcinK 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Leading 5c, 6a, 5c and 6a. First 5 pitches not very interesting. Last two very nice but the last one absolutely excellent. Quite densely bolted, new SS plaques and bolts.

with Charel Wohl
Hidden 26/Aug/17 AltLd
judith neaves 25/Aug/17 2nd

Pressure for time so did not alt leads, ended up with 40 mins to spare to get down on lift! Queues on last pitch

MNC 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Sarah
Shaw Brown 25/Aug/17 -
SarahConnor 25/Aug/17 AltLd
with MNC
calumhicks 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Didn't realise it was fully bolted. 10 draws is enough. Very soft, felt more like 5bish on the 'crux' pitches. Good last pitch

with Morna bernerna
Hidden 20/Aug/17 -
Hidden 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
CameronH 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Josh Abrahams, Will Kernick
Ginge1988 16/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Olly
ollyalkema 15/Aug/17 AltLd
with emma greenwood
betathief 13/Aug/17 AltLd
Aadashkevich 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Anastasia led pitch 1,3,5,7. Glen led pitch 2,4,6,8

with Glen
ClimbingGlen 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led pitches: 2,4,6 and 8. Stiff final pitch up the arête.

EllieWoods 30/Jul/17 AltLd dnf

Missed the last pitch due to a storm coming in...

with Rich
petecallaghan 30/Jul/17 AltLd dnf

We did this as two teams (Ray and me, Rich and Ellie). We were a bit slow up the lifts and by the time we got there we had 6 people immediately ahead of us. They were sloooow. We were serenaded by the folk music of CosmoJazz echoing up from the mid station. At the bottom of P6 a cumulus launched up above the valley, we heard thunder and decided to bail. While considering escape options, the rain moved away so we continued up P6 and P7. Rich sensibly bailed at this point, while Ellie, Ray and I considered P8. However the conditions looked bad again so we decided again to bail, at which point the storm launched all around us. Heavy rain then hail then lightning and thunder. We ran ran ran ran down the hill (I managed to slip when counting seconds between bolt and thunder). Utterly soaked when we joined the CosmoJazz crowds waiting for the lifts to resume.

Richard Alderton 30/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Except final pitch thanks to epic thunderstorm

with Ellie
Wendy Watthews 28/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Nice little route, got a bit caught up in traffic below the final pitch but all part of a day out on a classic.

with JakeB.
Hidden 28/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/17 AltLd
justaddpowder 27/Jul/17 AltLd
with Chris Holt
scottywakefield 26/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Iain_L_32 26/Jul/17 AltLd
NickJH 23/Jul/17 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill
Andrew Abraham 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Paul Deane
Maz J 21/Jul/17 AltLd

Managed to walk passed the first 4 pitches and Simon ran pitch 6+7 together. Led last pitch, then continued on the traverse.

with Simon Jones
janegallwey 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Rob Royle 16/Jul/17 2nd

Climbed the last pitch only, which was after climbing Label Virginie and the Clocher Clochetons traverse. Fantastic 6a pitch on the Arête, awesome climbing!!

with Mountain Guide
R0BJ0N 11/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Dominic Teichmann, Kellie Grice
Hidden 11/Jul/17 AltLd
Lakesben 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Bear
Hidden 06/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Duncan 88 06/Jul/17 AltLd
Pero 03/Jul/17 AltLd

Led even pitches. Top pitch is great. Soft 6a technically but my sort of climbing!

James.houghton 26/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

To find follow the red paint dots and there is a red post at the base. Lovely sustained climbing throughout. Led 1,3,5,7.

with Andy
joem 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Steve Woollard 23/Jun/17 -
with Owen
Luke Brooks ?/Jun/17 Lead

Soaking wet, french free most pitches.

mchardski ?/Jun/17 Lead

Last pitch up the tower is very good climbing indeed.

with Amy Soska
climb the peak ??/2017 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2017 -
Hidden 09/Sep/16 2nd
OLGrady 04/Sep/16 AltLd dnf

Ran out of time to finish the last 2 pitches though the route is amazing.

ChrisH89 04/Sep/16 AltLd dnf

Messed up finding the start of the route and started too late in the day. Didn't do the last two pitches as we didn't want to miss the last bin down (so lazy!). Absolutely fantastic climbing throughout however and last two pitches looked superb, so will definitely return to finish this one.

with OLGrady
will_lake 03/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

I got to lead the final ridge pitch which was great apart from the four muppets infront of us who took a lifetime to aid up it

with Chris Petrauskas
alan1234 20/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Richard Willis, Josh Pitman
Hidden 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
08nbrierley 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with jamie
Hidden 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
w-watson 12/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Vincej 08/Aug/16 2nd
with Fred Drouet
Wizzy 08/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Top pitch is bloody good!!

LDudill ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Alternated leads...

with Ben clifton, Kelly campbell
Siongethinhill 28/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with alan mchardy
Benjaminblanc 23/Jul/16 AltLd
with James Norris
james n 23/Jul/16 AltLd
Wiseman 09/Jul/16 AltLd

A lot of snow left on the approach and axe came in useful and running crampons. Alt leads, due to time constraints we bailed the last pitch. Nice climb apart from the fact a guide decided to climb up 7th pitch whilst my partner was still leading! The short 3a pitch is still covered in snow, fairly easy scramble up to pitch 7 just to the side of it.

with Nikki Sommers
Hidden 28/Jun/16 -
Hidden 28/Jun/16 -
Brian Pollock 24/Jun/16 AltLd

Really enjoyable but conditions dictated a bail before the end

with Alfie, J_Trottet
Alfie Maun 24/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

snow in top section had not melted yet

Pina 24/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Block leads to the top but we were stopped by a near vertical snow field just before the main clocher (after the ab) and my lead pitches. Axe needed for approach at the minute.

with Alfie, Brian Pollock
Alessandro Tentori 22/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Fanny Schmutz-Tomasi
Siongethinhill 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with adam martin
tskelhon ?/Sep/15 AltLd
clmacdonald ?/Sep/15 AltLd
verticon ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
saaruli 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

I started, we did all the possible 6a+ variations. Nice easy climb with great view!

with Erik
Hidden 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Palindrome 05/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Si ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 21/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
ned_85 12/Jul/15 AltLd
Avinash Aujayeb 10/Jul/15 2nd
with ales cesen
Rob Royle 05/Jul/15 Lead

Lead the first 5 pitches, we were climbing as a 3 and as a result were running late and would not have made the lift down. Great route with fantastic rock! Will definitely return......

with Seb (Mountain Guide), Steph
Hidden 01/Jul/15 AltLd
Brucemacrosson ?/Jul/15 AltLd

TD- 6a >5b bolted

with Bryan Rhinn
DigitalSteak 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/15 -
davkeo 24/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

P2,4,6(6a+) & final pitch done as a cracking 45m finale.

cearbhalld 24/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Hannah
alexm198 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 5. Fantastic, varied climbing with the crux right at the top. Climbed in approach shoes.

with Matt Harle, James Thompson
Matt Schwarz 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with katie
Matt Harle 08/Sep/14 AltLd
Katie S 08/Sep/14 AltLd
pow22 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

With Rick.

Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/14 AltLd
AndyBryce 14/Aug/14 Lead β
Hidden 14/Aug/14 2nd
Callum Smith 12/Aug/14 AltLd

Bit contrived and busy. Individual pitches present good climbing. Useful for ropework skills.

jogle03 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
McGuinness 25/Jul/14 -
with Mike
Gumery 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Caroline
Grant Fulton ?/Jul/14 AltLd
with Iasiah
Hidden ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 27/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Accidentally skipped first pitch. Well bolted.

with Jake Shaw
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd
Roger Cruse 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Kris and Nolan
jcw ??/2014 -
Robbo1 05/Sep/13 -
Happy Haggis 05/Sep/13 -

Cracking day out.

Binder 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Excellent

with Toby
gravity 02/Sep/13 AltLd
with George
david0811 01/Sep/13 AltLd
with debbie, Dave R
MrRiley 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

8 of 9 pitches with a wee bit of french free, would have missed the lift down if had done the last pitch, fantastic route, interesting and varied climbing

Debbie Lee 01/Sep/13 AltLd
JoelO ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Teija, Make
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S
jameslam 15/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Olaf
Hidden 06/Aug/13 AltLd
Jo sumner 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
rlrs 01/Aug/13 AltLd
with GSI
onlyfoddington 31/Jul/13 Lead O/S

I think this may have been some of the best leading - especially on the second half. I did two pitches of 5c and two of 6a ( all bolted) with a sizeable rucksack. Really pleased I had the balls to go left of the arête at the end for a memorable finish.

with Adam
alooker ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Liam Ingram 23/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lead top pitch. Good fun.

Roberttaylor 23/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
maria85 21/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Jules
AnnaBacklund ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

4th and 5th

Rockley 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead
Tom Campbell ?/Jul/12 -
JKBowers ??/2012 2nd
with Rob Doyle, Dilan Pathmajothy
Mountain Llama 07/Sep/11 AltLd

Not enough time for last pitch

with Paul S
nvalentine760 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Exposed pitch to summmit, 6 pitches, 220m

with Sam Burnham
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
NB Pixel 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with JT
squicky 01/Aug/11 AltLd dnf

Ran out of steam 3 bolts from the end! Got to the lift with 5 mins to spare. Definitely agree about the exposure on the last pitch but 6a seemed quite low. Will be back to finish this one off.

with Sei
howes19 ?/Aug/11 AltLd
chrissloan84 ?/Aug/11 -
with paul
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd
Paula Ryan ?/Aug/11 2nd
with Robin Brooke
Stephen18 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Tadams 10/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

some awesome pitches, really nice rock, good exposure - last pitch is well worth it regardless of tiredness and the missing the last telecabin does indeed mean a long walk

with Mark Challoner
rosieposey14 ?/Sep/10 AltLd
with will jung
nia ?/Sep/10 AltLd
with Dale lee
markv21 23/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
RandomHero 23/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
allyrocke 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Phil Jennings 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
darren hudson 27/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Great fun climb.The 6a+ finish has great exposure. Yes the walk back down is long. we jogged and walked and it took about 2 hours, the rain storm didn't help!

with David Ford
Hidden 13/Aug/09 AltLd
kylieo 13/Aug/09 AltLd

led pitches 1(4b), 3(5b), 5(5a), 6(3a) and 8(5b). Seconded 2(5c), 4(5c+), 7(5c) and 9(6a).

with Phil
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
tcn_2002 11/Jul/07 Lead

Epic

shaun walby ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Hugh exposure on the last pitch for a grit man...ive done the walk down previously, once is a good teacher.

with Kev Groome
paul__in_sheffield ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
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Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 17
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set