UKC

200m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
260m. A long route connecting some good bits of rock with short walking sections. Take a small rack.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the steep wall and a pleasant slab then step left around an arête and climb up the right-facing groove.
2) 4c, 30m. A bouldery move straight off the belay leads to a left-rising traverse. Follow this to a bolt belay in the trees.
Walk down leftwards for 100m to reach a bolt belay at the foot of a corner, below a steep orange wall above.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner before moving right and climbing the slab and steep, juggy wall above. There are no bolts on the steep section, and a medium-sized cam is useful. Belay on the slab above.
4) 4b, 25m. An exposed move from the belay leads to an excellent rising traverse leftwards up a vague groove. Follow this to another belay in the trees.
Descend leftwards for 50m on a vague path and then across a large boulder to reach the foot of a slab.
5) 5a, 30m. Climb the superb slab, drifting rightwards.
6) 4c, 30m. Climb the slab on the right, following it to a ledge with a steep corner on the left and a steep wall on the right. Climb the wall on the right (past two bolts which are difficult to spot from below) and belay above.
7) 4a, 20m. A short, scrappy pitch. Step right and up from the belay to reach the gully. Cross this and climb the rib on the right (two bolts) to a ledge. Walk 10m right to reach another belay.
8) 4c, 25m. There are no bolts for the first 10m (and only two for the pitch) so medium cams may again be useful if this is near your limit. The pitch begins with excellent flakes and then leads left onto a slab followed by the belay.
9) 4a, 25m. Continue up the slab with more bolts than the last pitch, to reach the belay on the underside of a boulder.
Walk off to the left to reach the Clocher-Clochetons path.
It is possible (and worthwhile) to do one more pitch on a small buttress.
10) 5a, 25m. A green slab leads to a steep chimney and another slab. The bolts end at the top of the second slab, but a further 10m of arête follows. The climbing is good but feels spicy given that the upper section is basically a solo! Either abseil off the back to the base, or walk around. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
IainMunro 23 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Tempting to grab the big flake above the 2nd bolt on pitch 8 but it’s loose, plenty other good holds on the left. Also a block above 2nd bolt on pitch 10 which wobbles but is easily avoided. We took a light rack as per Rockfax but didn’t need it, wonder if there are some extra bolts these days?
Show beta
βeta: Tempting to grab the big flake above the 2nd bolt on pitch 8 but it’s loose, plenty other good holds on the left. Also a block above 2nd bolt on pitch 10 which wobbles but is easily avoided. We took a light rack as per Rockfax but didn’t need it, wonder if there are some extra bolts these days?
Webster 10 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: ignore the D+ grade, this is much much easier than la tartifeltte near by which gets the same grade... i would definitely not be soloing tartifeltte! AD at most
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ignore the D+ grade, this is much much easier than la tartifeltte near by which gets the same grade... i would definitely not be soloing tartifeltte! AD at most
Mr MRS 4 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Big loose block on top of a flake (looks like part of the flake) on p8. Be careful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big loose block on top of a flake (looks like part of the flake) on p8. Be careful.

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Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
Votes cast 17
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Red Sentinel

Grade: D+ ***
(Mont Blanc)

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