18m. E4/5 6a. Start slightly right of two pegs, 3 meters right of Incubus Direct. Climb up and slightly leftwards to another peg with tat. Clip this and make a couple of stiff moves to a break where you'll find the last (hidden) peg. Move out right and up the hanging groove. Finish slightly left with care. Pegs checked / replaced 2014.

1988 Nick White

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Rock to Fakey 09/Jun 2nd dog

Went up to 1st gear, unclip new peg, downclimb. Up again, unclip old peg, continue up to next gear. Rested. Remove, up to next, rest. Etc to top! Rested at most gear before removal. So sort of can do 1st half no rests, placing gear on lead would be very different though. Amazing lead. Bit run fom half way to next brk, peg, then touger move to top, but mostly all good finger jugs. Just need the stamina.

with Fiend
Hidden 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Wendy 24/Sep/16 Lead β

Gaz's gear

with Gaz
gazhbo 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 13/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Soft E5

with Tom le fanu
Ed morris 20/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Colin
Hidden 11/Aug/15 Lead β
dbrooks 21/Feb/15 2nd dog

very steep with good holds

with Dr Dave
Bristoldave 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Decent pro and F6c/+ maybe?

with Derwood
Hidden ??/2015 -
Ged Desforges ??/2015 -

great route, with at least 3 good wires to back up the decent looking pegs.

JBO 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant little route, all over quite quickly but some great moves on good holds, at an impressive angle. New pegs make it a pretty safe option and a soft E5.

piken 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Never get bored of climbing this route

with Andy
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Brian H 06/Jul/14 Lead

Blew the onsight after spending too long fiddling with gear to back up top peg. Pulled ropes and did next go.

Mr Tickle 05/Jul/14 2nd dog

Definitely off vertical

with RusseyB
R2B 05/Jul/14 Lead dog

Fell off going for the groove near the top, gutted. Steep! A few holds need care. One jug in particular, just before the 1st peg, is quite wobbly. I avoided it but it made the move harder.

with Rooker
John Mcshea 02/Jul/14 Lead

Used as warm up, flash pump, fell off, pulled ropes and re-lead, silly boy.....

misterb 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S

straightforward but holds falling off

with justin
Justin T 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S

In its new re-pegged form, felt fairly straightforward and well-protected albeit steep. Placed a few bits to back up pegs but no need to hang around.

with Nick B
alice fuller 14/May/14 Lead RP

Previously worked and dogged it 9/5/14.2nd Woj Aug 2017

Hidden 09/May/14 Lead RP
Alex moore 03/May/14 Lead

Great route, down climbed once for a rest before hard mid section

with Tom bunn
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead RP

One rest by the top peg on the onsight attempt. Went next go as a clip-up.

with Colin
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead
pezzerrr 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Graham Atkins 14/Jul/12 Lead

one rest and a massive jump off the top into the water!

chris j 06/Aug/11 2nd dog

More straightforward than Call to Arms, need to beef up the arms though - more training required!

with Ben Bradford
JeromeT ?/Aug/09 Lead RP

Lead on Daves gear, clip up! Easy climbing but still well scary! Loved it!

Toby Dunn 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Hughes
Davros the Psyched ??/1995 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 08/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
clark alston ?/Oct/91 Lead RP

Probably E5 for the onsight. **

ecowaller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Wendy Sampson, Andy Reid
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set