UKC

Climbs 33
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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Fighting the pump on Incubus Direct, Sanctuary Wall. © Brian H

Crag features

Sanctuary Wall feels surprisingly isolated. It is insanely steep for a trad crag and the rock quality varies from perfect, to unnervingly creaky. The climbs are serious, and although the holds are generally good, the routes are incredibly sustained. The majority of the routes rely on a good deal of fixed gear for protection, which should always be back up if possible. It is wise to carry prusiks since any fall will leave you dangling in space.

Sanctuary wall underwent a heavy wave of development in the 80s and 90s and has seen a small revival associated with the 2018 guidebook launch. Some routes have been restored with updated fixed gear. The lower grade offerings in particular are still regularly travelled and offer some of the best climbing in the most superb setting in the area.

The wall is accessible via The Long Traverse from low to mid-tide. The base of the climbs are not tidal in calm sea-conditions. The wall is a suntrap and does not take much seepage.

Approach notes

Take the footpath signed to Walls Hill Downs from beside The Range retail outlet. The Long Traverse is used to access the Sanctuary Wall itself, either from Anstey's Cove or Long Quarry Point.

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