Climbs 29
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Fighting the pump on Incubus Direct, Sanctuary Wall. © Brian H

Crag features

"Some of the most spectacular and nerve-racking climbing in Devon", which is saying something.

Sanctuary wall seems to have fallen from fashion of late after a heavy wave of development in the 80s and 90s. A couple of the harder routes are, admittedly, somewhat loose and scary horror shows however many are solid and reasonably protected. The lower grade offerings in particular are still regularly travelled and offer some of the best climbing in the most superb setting in the area.

Compact, hard, sheltered limestone. Generally overhanging, multi-pitch routes up to 180ft. Beware ageing in-situ gear - back up pegs if possible. And then have a go at wild routes like Sacrosanct (HVS 5a - possibly one of the best routes at the grade in Devon?), Flaming Drambuie (E5 6b) and Call of Nature (E6 6b).

Approach notes

DO NOT PARK in the DIY centre in Babbacombe. There are now number-plate recognition cameras up and heavy (although technically unenforcable) fines involved. Instead park considerately in Perinville road opposite, keeping as low a profile as you can, then head back and along the path next to the DIY centre as per the guide.

Access to Sanctuary Wall can be gained from either Anstey's Cove or Long Quarry Point via the Long Traverse (around 2hours either side of low tide) or abseil from a spike on the RH side of the Quarry Pinnacle of LQP.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
E5 5c,5c, ***3
2Brittle Road to FreedomXS 5c  
3Balls of a Child
E7 6b  
4Kill Your Idol
E6 6b *** 
5Call of the Wild
E6 6b ***3
6Call of Nature
E6 6b *** 
E6 6b ** 
E6 6b ** 
HVS 5b,4a, 1
10SacrosanctHVS 5a **83
11Flaming Drambuie
E5 6b ***1
E6 6b/c ** 
13Free the Spirit
E6 6a ***9
14The Long Traverse
4c S1 **31
15Southern ComfortE6 6b ***2
16Caribbean Blue
E6 6a ***10
17The SprinterE5 5c  
18MonsoonE6 6a  
19Call to Arms
E4 5c, 5c ***40
20Amoebic Plunge
E6 6b  
21Up in ArmsE4 6b 3
22Incubus DirectE3 5c,5a 13
23False GodsE4 6a **35
24Gus Honeybun
E5 6b ** 
25Dead RabbitE7 6b  
E2 5b 6
27Opium Eater
E4 5c  
HVS ***81
29One Step Beyond
E4 5c 1
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 

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