Climbs 32
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces S

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Fighting the pump on Incubus Direct, Sanctuary Wall. © Brian H

Crag features

"Some of the most spectacular and nerve-racking climbing in Devon", which is saying something.

Sanctuary wall underwent a heavy wave of development in the 80s and 90s and has seen a small revival associated with the 2018 guidebook launch. Some routes have been resored with updated fixed gear which is just as well given that the odd hold creaks unnervingly when weighted. The lower grade offerings in particular are still regularly travelled and offer some of the best climbing in the most superb setting in the area.

Compact, hard, sheltered limestone. Generally overhanging, multi-pitch routes up to 180ft. Beware ageing in-situ gear - back up pegs if possible.  Recommendable wild routes to whet your appetite include Sacrosanct (HVS 5a - possibly one of the best routes at the grade in Devon?), Incubus (E0!), Incubus Direct (E3), Call to Arms (E4), False Gods (E4/5), Southern Comfort (E6).

Approach notes

DO NOT PARK in The Range in Babbacombe. There are now number-plate recognition cameras up and heavy (although technically unenforcable) fines involved. Instead park considerately in Perinville road opposite, keeping as low a profile as you can, then head back and along the path next to the DIY centre as per the guide.

Access to Sanctuary Wall can be gained from either Anstey's Cove or Long Quarry Point via the Long Traverse (around 2hours either side of low tide) or abseil from a spike on the RH side of the Quarry Pinnacle of LQP.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Madness
-
E5 5c,5c, ** 3
2 Brittle Road to Freedom XS 5c  
3 Balls of a Child E7 6b  
4 Kill Your Idol E6 6b **  
5 Call of the Wild E6 6b ** 2
6 Call of Nature E6 6b **  
7 Wildebeest E6 6b *  
8 Supermousse E6 6b *  
9 Cinqtus
-
HVS 5b,4a, 1
10 Sacrosanct HVS 5a *** 75
11 The Flaming Drambuie
-
E6 6b ** 1
Climb name Grade
12 The Flaming Drambuie (Original finish) E5 6a ** 1
13 Courvoisier
-
E6 6b **  
14 Free the Spirit
-
E6 6a *** 9
15 Southern Comfort E6 6b *** 3
16 Caribbean Blue
-
E6 6a ** 9
17 The Sprinter E5 5c  
18 Monsoon E6 6a  
19 Call to Arms E4 5c *** 36
20 Amoebic Plunge E6 6b  
21 Up in Arms E4 6b 4
22 Incubus Direct E3 5c, 5b * 11
Climb name Grade
23 False Gods E5 6a ** 38
24 Gus Honeybun
-
E6 6b *  
25 Dead Rabbit E7 6b  
26 Morpheus
-
E2 5b 6
27 Castaway E5 6a *** 1
28 Opium Eater
-
E4 5c  
29 Incubus E1 5b *** 73
30 One Step Beyond E4 5c ** 3
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
32 The Long Traverse 4c S1 ** 39
33 Spirit of the Carribbean * E5 6a *** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem