Climbs 29
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Fighting the pump on Incubus Direct, Sanctuary Wall. © Brian H

Crag features

"Some of the most spectacular and nerve-racking climbing in Devon", which is saying something.

Sanctuary wall seems to have fallen from fashion of late after a heavy wave of development in the 80s and 90s. A couple of the harder routes are, admittedly, somewhat loose and scary horror shows however many are solid and reasonably protected. The lower grade offerings in particular are still regularly travelled and offer some of the best climbing in the most superb setting in the area.

Compact, hard, sheltered limestone. Generally overhanging, multi-pitch routes up to 180ft. Beware ageing in-situ gear - back up pegs if possible. And then have a go at wild routes like Sacrosanct (HVS 5a - possibly one of the best routes at the grade in Devon?), Flaming Drambuie (E5 6b) and Call of Nature (E6 6b).

Approach notes

DO NOT PARK in the DIY centre in Babbacombe. There are now number-plate recognition cameras up and heavy (although technically unenforcable) fines involved. Instead park considerately in Perinville road opposite, keeping as low a profile as you can, then head back and along the path next to the DIY centre as per the guide.

Access to Sanctuary Wall can be gained from either Anstey's Cove or Long Quarry Point via the Long Traverse (around 2hours either side of low tide) or abseil from a spike on the RH side of the Quarry Pinnacle of LQP.

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Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Madness
-
E5 5c,5c, *** 3
2 Brittle Road to Freedom XS 5c  
3 Balls of a Child
-
E7 6b  
4 Kill Your Idol
-
E6 6b ***  
5 Call of the Wild
-
E6 6b *** 2
6 Call of Nature
-
E6 6b ***  
7 Wildebeest
-
E6 6b **  
8 Supermousse
-
E6 6b **  
9 Cinqtus
-
HVS 5b,4a, 1
10 Sacrosanct HVS 5a ** 66
11 Flaming Drambuie
-
E5 6b *** 1
12 Corvoisier
-
E6 6b/c **  
13 Free the Spirit
-
E6 6a *** 9
14 The Long Traverse 4c S1 ** 36
15 Southern Comfort E6 6b *** 3
16 Caribbean Blue
-
E6 6a *** 9
17 The Sprinter E5 5c  
18 Monsoon E6 6a  
19 Call to Arms E4 5c *** 40
20 Amoebic Plunge
-
E6 6b  
21 Up in Arms E4 6b 3
22 Incubus Direct E3 5c,5a 11
23 False Gods E5 6a ** 36
24 Gus Honeybun
-
E5 6b **  
25 Dead Rabbit E7 6b  
26 Morpheus
-
E2 5b 6
27 Opium Eater
-
E4 5c  
28 Incubus E1 5b *** 83
29 One Step Beyond
-
E4 5c 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

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