2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Quite simply, done in its entirety, this is one of the best E4s on limestone in the country.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb up a scoop to a bulge (normally with some rotten stuck wires). Pull past these (old peg) and gain the beckoning flake. Thug your way up this to final taxing moves (the scene of many failures) leading to a belay on a small ledge.
2) 6a, 15m. The steep, and well-protected groove (an old peg and good wires) above is a contrast to the pitch below requiring subtlety rather than brute strength. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock, L.Noble, P.Hutchinson (aid) 11.62. The line they took incorporates Apocalypse P2. FFA. T.Proctor, G.Birtles 1976 after a race against Fawcett and Livesey. Nov/1962

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist, Definitive *** Peak Lime, Chee Tor Extreme Trad

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Duncan Campbell 17 Jul AltLd Led P2. Made a bit of a meal of it and sat on a wire above the downward pointing peg. Spotted another hold and lowered off. Then climbed back up and did the pitch. Defo a tricky one and despite Pat’s recent ascent was still very overgrown/dusty. If anyone is thinking of doing this pitch it would be worth bringing a few metres of rope for the Abb station as it’s looking pretty old.
Led P2. Made a bit of a meal of it and sat on a wire above the downward pointing peg. Spotted another hold and lowered off. Then climbed back up and did the pitch. Defo a tricky one and despite Pat’s recent ascent was still very overgrown/dusty. If anyone is thinking of doing this pitch it would be worth bringing a few metres of rope for the Abb station as it’s looking pretty old.
Patrick Hill 13 Jul Lead O/S Lead both pitches separately. Great route. Top pitch was pretty dusty.
with Adam brown
Lead both pitches separately. Great route. Top pitch was pretty dusty.
with Adam brown
geoff b 7 Jul 2nd This was hard: 3 rests/falls to get past the in-situ wire & onto the flake. Even Crispin found it hard!
with Crispin
This was hard: 3 rests/falls to get past the in-situ wire & onto the flake. Even Crispin found it hard!
with Crispin
w.pettet-smith ?Jul Lead Wanted to do it for a while , had wimped out getting to first gear in the past. Shambled on the first hard moves then shoddy tactics higher up, resting on a non resty bit just before a rest etc. Lovely layback though. Dunc did second pitch- deserves more traffic
Wanted to do it for a while , had wimped out getting to first gear in the past. Shambled on the first hard moves then shoddy tactics higher up, resting on a non resty bit just before a rest etc. Lovely layback though. Dunc did second pitch- deserves more traffic
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox 18 Mar -
Nigel White ?? -
Ethan 9 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Andre
with Andre
harry_lewis 24 Aug, 2017 Lead β P1 only and on ed's gear.
with Ed Teale
P1 only and on ed's gear.
with Ed Teale
mrteale 24 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Glad to have saved this until I was trad fit. Really great climbing with some ok rests and stonking gear. P1 only
Glad to have saved this until I was trad fit. Really great climbing with some ok rests and stonking gear. P1 only
Simon Davis 17 Aug, 2017 Lead Back to close the deal. Brilliant route.Cheers Tim.
with Tim P
Back to close the deal. Brilliant route.Cheers Tim.
with Tim P
Simon Davis 13 Aug, 2017 Lead dog Fell of the very last move. Too pumped for another go. Back around.
with Tim P
Fell of the very last move. Too pumped for another go. Back around.
with Tim P
amccann 2 Jul, 2017 Lead β Had just belayed Henry up it, so not an onsight. Found the rests pretty poor, felt much better hanging around between moves on the sustained bits compared to when trying to shake out crammed in under the roof...
with Henry
Had just belayed Henry up it, so not an onsight. Found the rests pretty poor, felt much better hanging around between moves on the sustained bits compared to when trying to shake out crammed in under the roof...
with Henry
NDD 20 Jun, 2017 Lead β Pumpy!
with haydn
Pumpy!
with haydn
Haydn Jones 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Tom did p2
with Tom adams
Tom did p2
with Tom adams
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 26 May, 2017 2nd rpt Fell off the top of this last year after work having not warmed up. Not so bad when warmed up and fitter. Brilliant climbing!
Fell off the top of this last year after work having not warmed up. Not so bad when warmed up and fitter. Brilliant climbing!
Hidden 26 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Simon Davis 9 Aug, 2016 2nd β
with Andrew James
with Andrew James
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 2nd
Greg Cunningham 31 Jul, 2016 AltLd I lead first pitch. Slipped-off low down so lowered to ground, pulled ropes then did it. So pumped at top but just managed to latch the top jug and pull up :-) Amazing delicate techy top pitch which Dave lead.
I lead first pitch. Slipped-off low down so lowered to ground, pulled ropes then did it. So pumped at top but just managed to latch the top jug and pull up :-) Amazing delicate techy top pitch which Dave lead.
Andy Moles 13 Jul, 2016 Lead G/U First pitch only. Fannied my first attempt and grabbed a stuck wire low down. Climbed it second go.
with Ben Silvestre
First pitch only. Fannied my first attempt and grabbed a stuck wire low down. Climbed it second go.
with Ben Silvestre
nathanlee 12 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S P1 only, good line
with goli, Maddy
P1 only, good line
with goli, Maddy
Duncan Campbell 27 Jun, 2016 Lead dog Gutted. Fell on the very last hard move going for what I thought was a good hold with a sausage burning pump! First route straight out of the car probably not the best tactics - was almost falling off placing gear around the overlap part of the flake. Managed to get quite a lot back at the rest but was redlining once again at the top. Total battle, amazing experience.
with malx
Gutted. Fell on the very last hard move going for what I thought was a good hold with a sausage burning pump! First route straight out of the car probably not the best tactics - was almost falling off placing gear around the overlap part of the flake. Managed to get quite a lot back at the rest but was redlining once again at the top. Total battle, amazing experience.
with malx
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 25 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt Still hard...
with Misha
Still hard...
with Misha
Misha 25 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt Got it clean this time. The start was still tough but got it ok. Spent a while sitting on the initial flake in a scrunched up half-rest position before moving left into the groove. Got a bit paranoid about dropping it on the slippery jams and locks in the crack but it was fine. Good rest before the tricky exit - not too bad with a crimp up and left. Second pitch didn't look very inviting as it seemed that no one had been up it for ages, so lowered off the tree. Pleased to get it clean this time. Hard E4, i.e. harder than some E5s I've done!
Got it clean this time. The start was still tough but got it ok. Spent a while sitting on the initial flake in a scrunched up half-rest position before moving left into the groove. Got a bit paranoid about dropping it on the slippery jams and locks in the crack but it was fine. Good rest before the tricky exit - not too bad with a crimp up and left. Second pitch didn't look very inviting as it seemed that no one had been up it for ages, so lowered off the tree. Pleased to get it clean this time. Hard E4, i.e. harder than some E5s I've done!
malx 21 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Bit of a battle, not helped by a fair bit of wetness. Fantastic route!
Bit of a battle, not helped by a fair bit of wetness. Fantastic route!
Dave Turnbull, BMC 9 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt Conditions poor but definitely very tough for the grade
with Chris Weidner
Conditions poor but definitely very tough for the grade
with Chris Weidner
robertmctague 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Yes! So good and hard all the way.
Yes! So good and hard all the way.
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 5 Jun, 2016 Lead Got it clean today, fell off the last move a few weeks ago. really good and really hard.
Got it clean today, fell off the last move a few weeks ago. really good and really hard.
Fraser13 ??, 2016 Lead O/S
rocksol ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 AltLd
Louishmouis ??, 2016 -
miastacey 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Lead both pitches - did it as one. Great route. Is a bit dirty at the moment though.
with Bob Smith
Lead both pitches - did it as one. Great route. Is a bit dirty at the moment though.
with Bob Smith
JBO 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Awesome, a very satisfying route with a lot of good, hard climbing. Good lead by Dad to do the very dusty top pitch.
Awesome, a very satisfying route with a lot of good, hard climbing. Good lead by Dad to do the very dusty top pitch.
oread 18 Jul, 2015 Lead dog Onsighted to the last move and then came off a dirty hold. Heartbreaking
Onsighted to the last move and then came off a dirty hold. Heartbreaking
dominic lee 27 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt Feels tough for E4.
with Sam Hamer
Feels tough for E4.
with Sam Hamer
Mark Stevenson 26 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
dan gibson 26 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Led both pitches. Found the first pitch steady, there's a no hands rest on a knee bar going up the big flake. Second pitch was tough, dirty and sweaty in the sun. Gave it a good clean on the way down. Top route.
with Mark Stevenson
Led both pitches. Found the first pitch steady, there's a no hands rest on a knee bar going up the big flake. Second pitch was tough, dirty and sweaty in the sun. Gave it a good clean on the way down. Top route.
with Mark Stevenson
markalmack 6 Jun, 2015 Lead β Route was filthy so rapped route to give a clean before hand. Not the best e4 in the country by a long way
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Route was filthy so rapped route to give a clean before hand. Not the best e4 in the country by a long way
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
WB 6 Jun, 2015 Lead RP Eventually! Took 5 or 6 goes to get more than 4 meters off the ground.
Eventually! Took 5 or 6 goes to get more than 4 meters off the ground.
bigie bob ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Hannes B 17 Sep, 2014 Lead dog yoyo 2falls. one after 1st runner, one after last!
yoyo 2falls. one after 1st runner, one after last!
Hannes B 17 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 17 Sep, 2014 Lead β
Justin T 4 Aug, 2014 2nd
Rachel Slater 4 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Almost a month since I tried this the first time during which I thought no way would I get back on it this summer. But I hate unfinished business and it actually went down without too much of a fight today!
Almost a month since I tried this the first time during which I thought no way would I get back on it this summer. But I hate unfinished business and it actually went down without too much of a fight today!
JulesV 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Apparently I've done this before but I remember nothing about it so I'm claiming the onsight again. Lead both pitches in one. Ace climbing but very sweaty in the 25 degree heat today.
with SV
Apparently I've done this before but I remember nothing about it so I'm claiming the onsight again. Lead both pitches in one. Ace climbing but very sweaty in the 25 degree heat today.
with SV
Rachel Slater 8 Jul, 2014 AltLd dog Lead pitch 1, failed on first crux, felt pretty psyched out but came down and tried to do it ground up. Made it through the first crux but had a rest in the middle and at the final top crack moves. Felt really hard! Seconded pitch 2 cleanly but that felt even harder and the peg looked really dodgy. Think I would have enjoyed it all a lot more if it had been a little cleaner! Oh well, an interesting ordeal.
Lead pitch 1, failed on first crux, felt pretty psyched out but came down and tried to do it ground up. Made it through the first crux but had a rest in the middle and at the final top crack moves. Felt really hard! Seconded pitch 2 cleanly but that felt even harder and the peg looked really dodgy. Think I would have enjoyed it all a lot more if it had been a little cleaner! Oh well, an interesting ordeal.
tim newton 8 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Pitch 1 is hard, but pitch 2 felt harder and more serious despite guidebook claims. The 2nd, important peg on pitch 2 is half out and not at all inspiring. I do love a good sandbag.
Lead P2. Pitch 1 is hard, but pitch 2 felt harder and more serious despite guidebook claims. The 2nd, important peg on pitch 2 is half out and not at all inspiring. I do love a good sandbag.
Misha 4 May, 2014 Lead dog Absolutely nails, as evidenced by the ceaseless stream of swearing that I came out with! Hard 5c (may be even 6a) off the deck to the crux bulge, gear so-so but at least at this point you aren't knackered and the stuck wire beckons (actually it wouldn't be too hard to place gear there as there is a non-rest just below the bulge; backed it up with a micro cam). Hung around for a while trying to figure out the bulge, then went for it and was going well but couldn't transfer into the flake and fell off doing a desperate lunge, resulting in a decent fall. Fluffed it second go as well - the problem is there are no decent footholds. Got established on the flake third go and was glad of the tat and peg (though both are past their best). The transfer left to the tax was well hard as well! There is a bit of a rest just above on a juggy hold, then sustained 5b/c up the groove, which feels pretty tough after what has gone on before... This is followed by a technical and tenuous 6a sequence right at the top of the difficulties. Got the sequence right and got to the finishing flatties but couldn't pull up or find a jug so took another sizeable fall, followed by another one. Got it third go - turned out there was a jug after all, obscured by a bit of vegetation. Annoying I didn't get this top bit clean. Didn't have the time or the energy for P2. Definitely one to come back to - especially when it's cleaner. There's a lot less crap on it now as most of it ended up on my trousers! Phil finished by headtorch at 9.20pm. A good day!
Absolutely nails, as evidenced by the ceaseless stream of swearing that I came out with! Hard 5c (may be even 6a) off the deck to the crux bulge, gear so-so but at least at this point you aren't knackered and the stuck wire beckons (actually it wouldn't be too hard to place gear there as there is a non-rest just below the bulge; backed it up with a micro cam). Hung around for a while trying to figure out the bulge, then went for it and was going well but couldn't transfer into the flake and fell off doing a desperate lunge, resulting in a decent fall. Fluffed it second go as well - the problem is there are no decent footholds. Got established on the flake third go and was glad of the tat and peg (though both are past their best). The transfer left to the tax was well hard as well! There is a bit of a rest just above on a juggy hold, then sustained 5b/c up the groove, which feels pretty tough after what has gone on before... This is followed by a technical and tenuous 6a sequence right at the top of the difficulties. Got the sequence right and got to the finishing flatties but couldn't pull up or find a jug so took another sizeable fall, followed by another one. Got it third go - turned out there was a jug after all, obscured by a bit of vegetation. Annoying I didn't get this top bit clean. Didn't have the time or the energy for P2. Definitely one to come back to - especially when it's cleaner. There's a lot less crap on it now as most of it ended up on my trousers! Phil finished by headtorch at 9.20pm. A good day!
philhilo 4 May, 2014 2nd dnf Holy-maloley this was hard! Bottom pitch only and had to pull on the stuck wire to do the crux, and dogged the rest. Hardest E4 I have done. Finished by headtorch, grey smears on grey mud covered limestone making the top section harder than needed.
with Misha
Holy-maloley this was hard! Bottom pitch only and had to pull on the stuck wire to do the crux, and dogged the rest. Hardest E4 I have done. Finished by headtorch, grey smears on grey mud covered limestone making the top section harder than needed.
with Misha
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 Lead G/U
hamer89 3 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S both pitch, quality classic
both pitch, quality classic
drcorbasisgod ?May, 2012 2nd dog
with Marc Weisner
with Marc Weisner
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Bob ??, 2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2012 Lead O/S P1 only, P2 was covered in a lunar quantity of dust
with Tim Hill
P1 only, P2 was covered in a lunar quantity of dust
with Tim Hill
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden 22 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Brown 1 Jun, 2011 AltLd
The old James turnbull ??, 2011 Lead
with dave brown
with dave brown
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Matt Fry 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S thought the start was a little bold (no stuck wires), with hard moves (crux?) to get to the flakes. Sting in the tail at the top! P1 only.
with Mark Rankaine, bigdrew, Sam1991
thought the start was a little bold (no stuck wires), with hard moves (crux?) to get to the flakes. Sting in the tail at the top! P1 only.
with Mark Rankaine, bigdrew, Sam1991
Tony Little 22 Jun, 2010 Lead dog Pitch 1. Foot slipped on last move before easy ground, fell halfway down the pitch, got straight back on and finished it. I'm gutted as I'd been saving this one.
with Dan
Pitch 1. Foot slipped on last move before easy ground, fell halfway down the pitch, got straight back on and finished it. I'm gutted as I'd been saving this one.
with Dan
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
JulesV ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Adam Ellwood 4 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S First pitch only
First pitch only
Ram MkiV 30 Aug, 2009 Lead β 1st pitch only. After al but placing own gear. Should go back and do second pitch when not raining.
with Bill Lawrence, noaks, Al
1st pitch only. After al but placing own gear. Should go back and do second pitch when not raining.
with Bill Lawrence, noaks, Al
Alex Mason 30 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S 1st pitch only, moist start felt scary, then physical/ hard work to the top tricky move. You really earn every metre of this one! Pure Quality.
with James Oakes, Billy Laurence, Ram MkiV
1st pitch only, moist start felt scary, then physical/ hard work to the top tricky move. You really earn every metre of this one! Pure Quality.
with James Oakes, Billy Laurence, Ram MkiV
Tom Briggs 15 Jun, 2008 2nd Cleaned Tequila
with Ed Brown
Cleaned Tequila
with Ed Brown
Boy ??, 2008 -
robyn1 ??, 2008 -
Toby Dunn ??, 2007 -
Boy ??, 2006 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 AltLd I led top pitch.
with Crispin Waddy
I led top pitch.
with Crispin Waddy
Hidden ??, 2003 -
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
Si Witcher ??, 1998 AltLd O/S led top pitch
led top pitch
uphillnow 6 Jun, 1997 2nd
with TCP
with TCP
phardman ??, 1997 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 2 Sep, 1996 AltLd
with Pete Benson
with Pete Benson
sadams 16 Jul, 1996 AltLd
with Hugh Cottom
with Hugh Cottom
Mike_d78 7 Jun, 1996 AltLd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
robtrooper ??, 1996 Lead O/S
ded ??, 1996 Lead G/U
morganator 24 Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Bruce
with Bruce
Billg ??, 1995 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?Sep, 1994 Lead O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
jamiev 20 Jul, 1994 2nd dog
with Adrian Berry
with Adrian Berry
ste_d 15 Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
Roget 5 Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
MikePycroft 3 Jul, 1993 AltLd
steveb2006 3 Jul, 1993 AltLd dog Mike ups the ante a bit by forcing this hard pitch - falls and rests. feels desperate seconding. Have to grab a peg leading top pitch too
Mike ups the ante a bit by forcing this hard pitch - falls and rests. feels desperate seconding. Have to grab a peg leading top pitch too
MikePycroft 3 Jul, 1993 AltLd
Rich Kirby 19 Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??, 1992 AltLd
with Guy Maddox
with Guy Maddox
Stoney Boy 21 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
with Rob Harrison
with Rob Harrison
ajtay ??, 1991 Lead O/S
with Various
with Various
Hidden 1 Sep, 1990 Lead
Hidden 4 Aug, 1990 2nd
Glenn Sutcliffe 14 Jul, 1990 AltLd
with keefe
with keefe
keefe 14 Jul, 1990 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
Pete Ogden ??, 1990 Lead
with Dave Ramsey
with Dave Ramsey
UKB Shark 17 Aug, 1989 Lead rpt one runout
one runout
Alan James - UKC and UKH 4 Jun, 1989 AltLd
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
DDDD ??, 1989 Lead O/S All in one pitch
All in one pitch
Hidden ?Aug, 1988 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Apr, 1988 Lead
Hidden 3 Oct, 1987 Lead
Bruce Kerr 16 Jul, 1987 Lead
with Simon Cox
with Simon Cox
Billg 26 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
with Dave Gregory
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
UKB Shark 3 Oct, 1986 Lead
with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo
with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo
keefe 27 Jun, 1986 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
neilh 4 May, 1985 2nd
with simon webster
with simon webster
Neil McA 9 Sep, 1984 Lead G/U Fell off at the first hard move then did it Ok from the ground. Led both pitches. Fantastic route!
with Neil Buttle
Fell off at the first hard move then did it Ok from the ground. Led both pitches. Fantastic route!
with Neil Buttle
Mike Owen 6 Sep, 1984 Lead O/S
with Mike Collins, Tom Jones
with Mike Collins, Tom Jones
Dave Turnbull 12 May, 1984 Lead O/S
with Jim Thomas
with Jim Thomas
Ian Jones ??, 1983 Lead rpt
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Steve Lewis 30 May, 1982 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
with Alun Richardson
Mark Kemball 3 Apr, 1982 Lead
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1981 2nd
with Phil Burke
with Phil Burke
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1973 -
26 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 33
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set