2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Quite simply, done in its entirety, this is one of the best E4s on limestone in the country.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb up a scoop to a bulge (normally with some rotten stuck wires). Pull past these (old peg) and gain the beckoning flake. Thug your way up this to final taxing moves (the scene of many failures) leading to a belay on a small ledge.
2) 6a, 15m. The steep, and well-protected groove (an old peg and good wires) above is a contrast to the pitch below requiring subtlety rather than brute strength. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock, L.Noble, P.Hutchinson (aid) 11.62. The line they took incorporates Apocalypse P2. FFA. T.Proctor, G.Birtles 1976 after a race against Fawcett and Livesey. Nov/1962

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist.

harry_lewis 24/Aug/17 Lead β

P1 only and on ed's gear.

with Ed Teale
mrteale 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Glad to have saved this until I was trad fit. Really great climbing with some ok rests and stonking gear. P1 only

Simon Davis 17/Aug/17 Lead

Back to close the deal. Brilliant route.Cheers Tim.

with Tim P
Simon Davis 13/Aug/17 Lead dog

Fell of the very last move. Too pumped for another go. Back around.

with Tim P
amccann 02/Jul/17 Lead β

Had just belayed Henry up it, so not an onsight. Found the rests pretty poor, felt much better hanging around between moves on the sustained bits compared to when trying to shake out crammed in under the roof...

with Henry
NDD 20/Jun/17 Lead β


with haydn
Haydn Jones 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Tom did p2

with Tom adams
Duncan Campbell 26/May/17 2nd rpt

Fell off the top of this last year after work having not warmed up. Not so bad when warmed up and fitter. Brilliant climbing!

Hidden 26/May/17 Lead O/S
Simon Davis 09/Aug/16 2nd β
with Andrew James
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd
Greg Cunningham 31/Jul/16 AltLd

I lead first pitch. Slipped-off low down so lowered to ground, pulled ropes then did it. So pumped at top but just managed to latch the top jug and pull up :-) Amazing delicate techy top pitch which Dave lead.

Andy Moles 13/Jul/16 Lead G/U

First pitch only. Fannied my first attempt and grabbed a stuck wire low down. Climbed it second go.

with Ben Silvestre
nathanlee 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S

P1 only, good line

with Oli Grounsell, Maddy
Duncan Campbell 27/Jun/16 Lead dog

Gutted. Fell on the very last hard move going for what I thought was a good hold with a sausage burning pump! First route straight out of the car probably not the best tactics - was almost falling off placing gear around the overlap part of the flake. Managed to get quite a lot back at the rest but was redlining once again at the top. Total battle, amazing experience.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 25/Jun/16 2nd rpt

Still hard...

Misha 25/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Got it clean this time. The start was still tough but got it ok. Spent a while sitting on the initial flake in a scrunched up half-rest position before moving left into the groove. Got a bit paranoid about dropping it on the slippery jams and locks in the crack but it was fine. Good rest before the tricky exit - not too bad with a crimp up and left. Second pitch didn't look very inviting as it seemed that no one had been up it for ages, so lowered off the tree. Pleased to get it clean this time. Hard E4, i.e. harder than some E5s I've done!

with Rob G
malx 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Bit of a battle, not helped by a fair bit of wetness. Fantastic route!

Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 09/Jun/16 2nd rpt

Conditions poor but definitely very tough for the grade

with Chris Weidner
robertmctague 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Yes! So good and hard all the way.

with Theo
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 05/Jun/16 Lead

Got it clean today, fell off the last move a few weeks ago. really good and really hard.

Fraser13 ??/2016 Lead O/S
rocksol ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 AltLd
Louishmouis ??/2016 -
miastacey 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches - did it as one. Great route. Is a bit dirty at the moment though.

with Bob Smith
JBO 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Awesome, a very satisfying route with a lot of good, hard climbing. Good lead by Dad to do the very dusty top pitch.

oread 18/Jul/15 Lead dog

Onsighted to the last move and then came off a dirty hold. Heartbreaking

dominic lee 27/Jun/15 2nd rpt

Feels tough for E4.

with Sam Hamer
Mark Stevenson 26/Jun/15 2nd dog
dan gibson 26/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Found the first pitch steady, there's a no hands rest on a knee bar going up the big flake. Second pitch was tough, dirty and sweaty in the sun. Gave it a good clean on the way down. Top route.

with Mark Stevenson
markalmack 06/Jun/15 Lead β

Route was filthy so rapped route to give a clean before hand. Not the best e4 in the country by a long way

WB 06/Jun/15 Lead RP

Eventually! Took 5 or 6 goes to get more than 4 meters off the ground.

bigie bob ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hannes B 17/Sep/14 Lead dog

yoyo 2falls. one after 1st runner, one after last!

with Rik
Hannes B 17/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Rik
rikbattye 17/Sep/14 Lead β
Justin T 04/Aug/14 2nd
with Rachel
Rachel Slater 04/Aug/14 Lead RP

Almost a month since I tried this the first time during which I thought no way would I get back on it this summer. But I hate unfinished business and it actually went down without too much of a fight today!

JulesV 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Apparently I've done this before but I remember nothing about it so I'm claiming the onsight again. Lead both pitches in one. Ace climbing but very sweaty in the 25 degree heat today.

with Shauna
Rachel Slater 08/Jul/14 AltLd dog

Lead pitch 1, failed on first crux, felt pretty psyched out but came down and tried to do it ground up. Made it through the first crux but had a rest in the middle and at the final top crack moves. Felt really hard! Seconded pitch 2 cleanly but that felt even harder and the peg looked really dodgy. Think I would have enjoyed it all a lot more if it had been a little cleaner! Oh well, an interesting ordeal.

tim newton 08/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Pitch 1 is hard, but pitch 2 felt harder and more serious despite guidebook claims. The 2nd, important peg on pitch 2 is half out and not at all inspiring. I do love a good sandbag.

Misha 04/May/14 Lead dog

Absolutely nails, as evidenced by the ceaseless stream of swearing that I came out with! Hard 5c (may be even 6a) off the deck to the crux bulge, gear so-so but at least at this point you aren't knackered and the stuck wire beckons (actually it wouldn't be too hard to place gear there as there is a non-rest just below the bulge; backed it up with a micro cam). Hung around for a while trying to figure out the bulge, then went for it and was going well but couldn't transfer into the flake and fell off doing a desperate lunge, resulting in a decent fall. Fluffed it second go as well - the problem is there are no decent footholds. Got established on the flake third go and was glad of the tat and peg (though both are past their best). The transfer left to the tax was well hard as well! There is a bit of a rest just above on a juggy hold, then sustained 5b/c up the groove, which feels pretty tough after what has gone on before... This is followed by a technical and tenuous 6a sequence right at the top of the difficulties. Got the sequence right and got to the finishing flatties but couldn't pull up or find a jug so took another sizeable fall, followed by another one. Got it third go - turned out there was a jug after all, obscured by a bit of vegetation. Annoying I didn't get this top bit clean. Didn't have the time or the energy for P2. Definitely one to come back to - especially when it's cleaner. There's a lot less crap on it now as most of it ended up on my trousers! Phil finished by headtorch at 9.20pm. A good day!

with Phil
philhilo 04/May/14 2nd dnf

Holy-maloley this was hard! Bottom pitch only and had to pull on the stuck wire to do the crux, and dogged the rest. Hardest E4 I have done. Finished by headtorch, grey smears on grey mud covered limestone making the top section harder than needed.

with misha
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead G/U
drcorbasisgod ?/May/12 2nd dog
with Marc Weisner
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Bob ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead O/S

P1 only, P2 was covered in a lunar quantity of dust

with Tim Hill
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Brown 01/Jun/11 AltLd
with James T
The old James turnbull ??/2011 Lead
with dave brown
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Matt Fry 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

thought the start was a little bold (no stuck wires), with hard moves (crux?) to get to the flakes. Sting in the tail at the top! P1 only.

with Mark Rankaine, Andy Janezko, Sam Dixon
Tony Little 22/Jun/10 Lead dog

Pitch 1. Foot slipped on last move before easy ground, fell halfway down the pitch, got straight back on and finished it. I'm gutted as I'd been saving this one.

with Dan
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
JulesV ??/2010 Lead O/S
Adam Ellwood 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S

First pitch only

Ram MkiV 30/Aug/09 Lead β

1st pitch only. After al but placing own gear. Should go back and do second pitch when not raining.

with Bill, noaks, Al
Alex Mason 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

1st pitch only, moist start felt scary, then physical/ hard work to the top tricky move. You really earn every metre of this one! Pure Quality.

with Noaksy, Billy Laurence, Steve Ramsden
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 15/Jun/08 2nd

Cleaned Tequila

with Ed Brown
Boy ??/2008 -
robyn1 ??/2008 -
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 AltLd

I led top pitch.

with Crispin Waddy
Hidden ??/2003 -
switch ??/1998 AltLd O/S

led top pitch

uphillnow 06/Jun/97 2nd
with Graeme Smith
phardman ??/1997 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/Sep/96 AltLd
with Pete Benson
sadams 16/Jul/96 AltLd
with Hugh Cottom
nokishatov 07/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
robtrooper ??/1996 Lead O/S
ded ??/1996 Lead G/U
morganator 24/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
with Bruce
Billg ??/1995 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?/Sep/94 Lead O/S
jamiev 20/Jul/94 2nd dog
with Adrian Berry
ste_d 15/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
Roget 05/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 03/Jul/93 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/93 AltLd dog
Hidden 03/Jul/93 AltLd
Rich Kirby 19/Jul/92 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1992 AltLd
with Guy Maddox
Stoney Boy 21/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Rob Harrison
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/90 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/90 2nd
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with Paul Greenland
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
with Dave Ramsey
ukb & bmc shark 17/Aug/89 Lead rpt

one runout

DDDD ??/1989 Lead O/S

All in one pitch

Hidden ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/88 Lead
Hidden 03/Oct/87 Lead
Bruce Kerr 16/Jul/87 Lead
with Simon Cox
Billg 26/May/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
ukb & bmc shark 03/Oct/86 Lead
with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo
keefe 27/Jun/86 -
with Johnny Adams
neilh 04/May/85 2nd
with simon webster
Neil McA 09/Sep/84 Lead G/U

Fell off at the first hard move then did it Ok from the ground. Led both pitches. Fantastic route!

with Neil Buttle
Mike Owen 06/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Mike Collins, Tom Jones
Dave Turnbull 12/May/84 Lead O/S
with Jim Thomas
Hidden ?/May/83 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead rpt
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Steve Lewis 30/May/82 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Mark Kemball 03/Apr/82 Lead
with Paul Clark
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 2nd
with Phil Burke
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 33
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set