Rockfax Description
A traditional solution to the gap right of Tequila... which has seen only a handful of ascents. A demanding route which is very difficult to onsight. Start below the large flake on Mortlock's Arete and climb to this. Make a desperate traverse left to clip a bolt then continue directly up with no respite to gain a shallow groove and crucial small nut protection (difficult to place). Finish direct to the belay of Mortlock's Arete. © Rockfax
FA. S.Nadin, R.Davies 3.7.84. It was bolted in 1988 and received many ascents. These were removed later. 03/Jul/1984.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peaklime_bagger | 14 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: E7 6b is likely a more informative grade. Tricky moves to a high first runner (okay above a pad) then safe climbing but on very difficult to read rock. Would be worth a flash attempt by the fit, a true onsight would be very difficult. // The former 2nd Tequila bolt (the one referred to in the description) was a bit (~40cm) right from where the present 3rd Tequila bolt is, at pretty much the same height. However, the double bolts marking the belay of Basic Channel are not much lower and have the benefit of being on route. // @CLH387, I believe the story goes: Hall fell from high up and narrowly avoided a ground fall (having not clipped the Tequila bolt). He subsequently did it (again without clipping the Tequila bolt). But this was clearly not onsight by the modern definition of that style. Possibly ground-up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: E7 6b is likely a more informative grade. Tricky moves to a high first runner (okay above a pad) then safe climbing but on very difficult to read rock. Would be worth a flash attempt by the fit, a true onsight would be very difficult. // The former 2nd Tequila bolt (the one referred to in the description) was a bit (~40cm) right from where the present 3rd Tequila bolt is, at pretty much the same height. However, the double bolts marking the belay of Basic Channel are not much lower and have the benefit of being on route. // @CLH387, I believe the story goes: Hall fell from high up and narrowly avoided a ground fall (having not clipped the Tequila bolt). He subsequently did it (again without clipping the Tequila bolt). But this was clearly not onsight by the modern definition of that style. Possibly ground-up. |
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| CLH387 | 5 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Climbed on sight as a trad route (i.e. without clipping the bolts) by Dougie Hall in the 80s. Probably 1985 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Climbed on sight as a trad route (i.e. without clipping the bolts) by Dougie Hall in the 80s. Probably 1985 |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chee Dale Lower
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Mickey Finn
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gardom's Edge)