UKC Logbook - 'The Golden Mile'

Rockfax Description
Vying with Supersonic on High Tor as the best E5 on Peak limestone; but this one is almost a full grade harder. Make 5c moves up the groove with good holds and adequate protection to a rest ledge on the right (bomber crucial nuts). Now climb determinedly up and left to pockets (thread) below the sloping ledge. Getting established on this is difficult and leads to a semi-rest. Beware: the upper wall climbed from left to right has taken many scalps. Traverse left to the Mortlock's Arete's belay or right to continue up Apocalypse. © Rockfax

P.Livesey, A.Livesey. Livesey's last great route in the Peak. Jul/1980.

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chee Tor Extreme Trad , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , The Festival Of Shite , 6b , Extreme Rock II

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User	Date		Notes
James Oswald	28 Aug	Show βeta βeta: Replaced thread July 2025	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Replaced thread July 2025
Ramon Marin	3 Sep, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Once stood up on the ledge, you can wrap the chicken head hold with a sling then silver wire up in an undercut flake. I also had a bomber skyhook above that too. Then by the pocket that take the yellow totem i didnt put any gear there as it’s a very goof hand hold to rest. We had a small RP, and good blue totem and a gold off set in the hold adjacent.
Show beta βeta: Once stood up on the ledge, you can wrap the chicken head hold with a sling then silver wire up in an undercut flake. I also had a bomber skyhook above that too. Then by the pocket that take the yellow totem i didnt put any gear there as it’s a very goof hand hold to rest. We had a small RP, and good blue totem and a gold off set in the hold adjacent.
phatlad	18 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Who gave this easy 6b? Thought it was a nails and baffling experience near the thread. What a blinder of a route, another Livesey gem!
Show beta βeta: Who gave this easy 6b? Thought it was a nails and baffling experience near the thread. What a blinder of a route, another Livesey gem!