UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Start up the corner on the left-hand side of the clean slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
up the groove on the left of the nice clean slab, then follow the bolts up to the double lower off.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , Easy Llanberis Slate Sport @ 3 to 5c

Feedback

User Date Notes
paul_southgate68 25 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Started direct on the far left of the slab
βeta?
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βeta: Started direct on the far left of the slab
liensiwel 18 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route. Lower offs are awkwardly placed.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice route. Lower offs are awkwardly placed.
Stacy Hackner 29 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Bolts now all re-tightened as of 27/5/21
βeta?
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βeta: Bolts now all re-tightened as of 27/5/21
ma.em16 6 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Second bolt is slightly loose
βeta?
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βeta: Second bolt is slightly loose
eastonator 15 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The rockfax guidebook (North Wales Slate, 2018) has some errors on the diagram between Rack and Pin and The Level Crossing. The image shows Rack and Pin (#8) as the traverse however from reading the descriptions this should be The Level Crossing (#14). Routes 9 to 13 should all be shifted right.
βeta?
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βeta: The rockfax guidebook (North Wales Slate, 2018) has some errors on the diagram between Rack and Pin and The Level Crossing. The image shows Rack and Pin (#8) as the traverse however from reading the descriptions this should be The Level Crossing (#14). Routes 9 to 13 should all be shifted right.
OCDan1 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: first 3 bolts are all loose
βeta?
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βeta: first 3 bolts are all loose

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