Rockfax Description
A short but useful filler-in. Start below a corner with a block in it above the horizontal break.
Climb the wall past the horizontal breaks to the block and finish up the short corner above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Pigs Ear on the vertical flowstone wall beneath the finishing fist crack of Stalactite. Climb on large spaced holds passing good but technical natural protection to the niche below the steep finishing crack on Stalactite. Finish up Stalactite or step up and left into a steep groove for a move or two of 5a. Belay off the tree.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Sean Kelly 09/Dec/17 TR
ben_st 09/Dec/17 TR
Steve Woollard 08/Nov/17 2nd
with Steve Thorpe
timreynolds 25/Oct/17 2nd rpt
with Ben Stainfield
steveprice.exmouth 06/Aug/17 2nd
with Dave Parsons, Ben Stainsfield
dparsons 06/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Steve, Ben
Jim blackford 01/Aug/17 Lead O/S

On the cusp VS/HVS. Nice route

Joe Brooke ?/Jul/17 Lead
with Matt Box
timorme 20/Jun/17 TR rpt
with kayley Jefferys
Lumbering Oaf 13/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Joe
alice fuller ?/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Great gear.. inbelievably good nut placements. Fun climbing, finished up left groove.

Hidden 24/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/May/17 Lead O/S
mark schramm 07/May/17 2nd rpt
with Adam
felixwilkins 06/May/17 2nd O/S
mark schramm 03/May/17 -
Terra Hunter 27/Apr/17 TR O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/17 Lead O/S
PeteMc 12/Feb/17 2nd
kingholmesy ??/2017 2nd rpt
with Alice F
Sam4242 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Wilkie210685 30/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Sam
suds_01 06/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Stu Bracher , Chris sawdon
nodwas 06/Oct/16 Lead
with suds_01
OllieF 07/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Quality route, no polish!

AndyMorrall 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 24/Aug/16 Lead
timreynolds 24/Aug/16 2nd
little_livvi 23/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Luke90 15/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Liz
Elizabeth Allen 15/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Luke
Rob Moorcroft 29/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/16 2nd
G Weatherley 04/May/16 2nd
with Fraser, Ed Walker
Julesthe1st 01/May/16 Lead O/S
with Cathy
cathymiller 01/May/16 2nd O/S
with Jules
stephen ashworth 27/Apr/16 2nd
with Ian hendy
ian hendy 26/Apr/16 Lead O/S

First hvs onsight!

with Stephen Ashworth
Bristol_Quornstar 05/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Short and sweet. Crux felt easy for 5a (compared with neighbouring route 'Great Western' !!)

with Jon Gupta
Hidden 30/Mar/16 2nd rpt
mark schramm 30/Mar/16 Lead rpt
LDJ 12/Mar/16 Lead
with Alfie, Lou
mark schramm 18/Oct/15 Lead rpt

Great fun at dusk

with steve P
Marktrin 30/Sep/15 TR
with Harry
phil456 30/Sep/15 TR rpt
with Young Harry, Mark G
ferdia 04/Aug/15 2nd
Andy Moles 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Burton
Tom Seccombe 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Scott Potheridge
LanceSolf 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Beautiful beautiful rock at the start of the climb

Will7777 15/Jul/15 2nd
petecallaghan 08/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Safe and enjoyable. Didn't feel HVS, but a really nice route.

EllieWoods 08/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Chris316 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Hubbard
frostage 14/Jun/15 TR O/S

Nice little climb

Adamfraczek 10/Jun/15 TR O/S

1 rest 3m from top out

with tommo
tom169 06/Jun/15 Lead
with Jamie, Adam
Rob Moorcroft 04/Jun/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
Nathan2013 ?/Jun/15 2nd
rich_hw 05/May/15 Lead O/S
with Nikki
BelayBunney 11/Apr/15 2nd rpt
francois 11/Apr/15 Lead
with Chris
lem 28/Mar/15 TR O/S

something to do on cold drizzly day

Hidden ??/2015 -
MattSkipper 06/Dec/14 TR O/S
with Matt Coleman
mattcoleman 15/Oct/14 TR O/S
with Matt Skipper
ManxClimber 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead G/U
LDJ 12/Sep/14 Lead
with Lou
Hidden 01/Sep/14 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
nikki_a_swan 31/Jul/14 2nd
with NaCl
nikki_a_swan 31/Jul/14 2nd
with NaCl
Hidden 31/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Russell Blackaller 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice climbing at the start, not really matched by the second half.

with Charlotte
Hidden 02/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
OllieF 02/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Copped out at first horizontal break after placing bomber wire, pumped from finding and placing gear prior to this... Shunted clean afterwards, next time!

burto ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with rowena, hertha
nikki_a_swan 31/May/14 2nd
with NaCl
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
OllieF 15/May/14 TR O/S

Shunted. Definitely on the list to lead, awkward top out I found.

with Shunt
Lee_Meaden 14/May/14 Lead O/S

Horrible top out

with Luke Robinson
Martin Bagshaw 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Don't think I would place as many (2) microwires on a vs to be fair!

ipegg 05/May/14 2nd
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead
Hidden 14/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Apr/14 TR rpt
Sean Kelly 09/Apr/14 Lead

Is this not HVS in the guide?

with Harry Pearce
mark schramm 09/Apr/14 Lead
Neil Rigiani 09/Apr/14 TR O/S

No surprises.

with Harry Pearce
DCIGadget 09/Apr/14 2nd β

Lovely climb - delicate in places

Hidden 01/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
nikki_a_swan ?/Apr/14 2nd
with NaCl
nikki_a_swan ?/Apr/14 2nd
with NaCl
roryferris ??/2014 Lead β

nice little climb

with emily
paultaylor 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Jimbo
Justin T 28/Aug/13 Lead

LH finish, good route, good gear.

with Nancy
guy757 21/Aug/13 -
Joe Costello 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Awkward left hand finish. I'd take HVS 5a.

with Tammy
metal arms 27/May/13 2nd
joedoherty 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Irving
stephen ashworth 06/Apr/13 Lead
with caroline blackmore
ian d f 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Grabtheslab ?/Mar/13 -
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
MBano 16/Sep/12 TR


timorme ?/Sep/12 TR dog
with Alex Frosty
RossT 17/Jul/12 Lead
with Tim Howell
Mark Davies PK 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with The Likely Lads
Quarryboy 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Pretty good route I just wish the tufa climbing was a bit more continuous as that bit was good, a little spoilt by the top in my opinion.

Ed Babs 18/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S

left groove finishes on grass and slopers, had to down-climb and finish direct.

with Ed
mark schramm 23/May/12 2nd
with Lyndsay
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead O/S
Alex Steele 20/May/12 Lead
SteveoS 20/May/12 Lead dnf

Pulled off a flake and decked out. Doesn't affect the climb as Alex showed afterwards.

Hidden 18/May/12 TR O/S
cwildblood 18/May/12 2nd O/S

beautiful climb!!

Doug miller 18/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/12 2nd O/S
AJH 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
MBano 06/Apr/12 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 TR
Hidden 28/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Chaman 28/Mar/12 Lead rpt
nickstephens 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dan Haberson-Butcher
James Mitchelmore 05/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead
martin clarke 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with nick andrews
PAJames ??/2012 -
dparsons ??/2012 Lead O/S
cripper ??/2012 -
with Ben
Hidden 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
mark schramm 13/Nov/11 Lead rpt
UnkArl 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, even if the top section was running with water, the middle section fairly overrun with beasties and cobwebs and the start requiring some bramble bashing. Abseiled back down to retrieve gear since Rik was only on belay duty due to a dodgy ankle.

with Rik
Big Rik 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
mark schramm 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Dave L, tom m
tommoulds 22/Oct/11 2nd
with Schramm
Kemics 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Gear was a little thin/fiddly and had to do a bit of gardening to clean a jug, but some worthwhile climbing.

with Dave
stephen ashworth 16/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/11 2nd
Chaman 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
mark schramm 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Chaman
mark schramm 01/Aug/11 2nd
with chawn
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Luke90 22/May/11 2nd O/S
with Ben
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead
Master Chief 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Spearos 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Hard VS 4c but no more... a good quickie!

tobydunford 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
davenev 20/Apr/11 -
with luke
Mr Tickle 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S

VS feels the correct grade

with davenev
Popkids 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Given HVS in the New West Country guide.But VS is a fair grade.

with Nolan
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
nickdonohue 02/Apr/11 2nd
with Chawn ?
francois 11/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Chris
BelayBunney 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Fun little route with very little polish and some interesting flow-stone at the start.

francois 08/Mar/11 2nd

Solid lead by Chris, slightly fiddly gear at the start.

with Chris
Bristoldave 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Harry
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
CarolineH 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Eleri
JonHarvey 28/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Good climbing. Needs traffic on top section. Went up big crack on the right. LH was wet.

Hidden 28/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/11 2nd O/S
dale1968 25/Feb/11 Lead dog

First trad fall, no stars, HVS 5a in rock fax

with Tom
berry 27/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Jan/11 Lead O/S
nblackbeard 11/Dec/10 TR O/S
dmaldonado 11/Dec/10 TR O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 TR
Marti999 06/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Mick Ward
Frostie 16/Sep/10 -
Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Eike 09/Sep/10 TR
Chris_barr 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Some sort of variation of this, dont thin exactly this but something similar

with Sarah
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May/10 2nd
Jimma 19/Apr/10 TR O/S
with Matt
Hidden 05/Apr/10 Lead
Matt02003 ?/Apr/10 TR O/S
with James
tskelhon ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 08/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Jack_F ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Sep/97 Lead G/U
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 40
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set