Rockfax Description
A tremendous pitch taking the steep wall to the left of Balas. Continuously pressing moves and an easy-to-fluff finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Gomersall 1985. Originally a bold A5. Climbed without bolts by Martin Berzins 1987. The bolts have been in and out over the years but are now in and likely to stay.

Ticklists: Yorkshire Limestone Graded List, 28 Decent Sport Routes, Northern Limestone for Catalans.

Hidden 27/Aug Lead
Hidden 12/Aug Lead RP
nicolat 03/Aug Lead RP
Apharri 24/Jul Lead RP

Second go. Fluffed the onsight

Ramon Marin 21/Jul Lead dog

My god, nails

with viki harvey
Hidden 17/Jul Lead RP
Paul Figg 13/Jul Lead RP

Whoop whoop, the send train arrived. Fantastic quality wall climb, nearly blew it at the top. Thanks to Mr Bass and Conner for the encouragement.

samrad 09/Jul Lead β
with Pete
Steve Hickie 07/Jul Lead RP

Great route

with Rob Sandercock
Hidden 07/Jul Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jul Lead RP
ohyeahhh 25/Jun TR dnf
soph 23/Jun Lead RP

Misty midgy and drizzly day but super fun climbing - getting to good break at start was hard for me.

with Andy Cave
soph 04/Jun Lead dog

Figured out beta again but fell off- bit tired. Will I get back before I forget beta again?! So much more fun than cheedale

Paul Figg 24/May Lead dog

Can do all the moves, just need the stamina to link it, found the good rest below the last bolt so there is hope.

Hidden ??/2017 -
nickmoulden 23/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
dan gibson 12/Oct/16 Lead RP
with Katerina petkova
nickmoulden 02/Oct/16 Lead rpt
FloTilley 27/Aug/16 Lead RP
with James
nige 10/Aug/16 Lead RP
with ewan mccallum
Cailean Harker 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Happy to insight this classic

W d c 24/Jul/16 Lead RP

Outstanding. 2 days ,1st redpoint 2nd day. First bolt pre clipped.

with BILL G
Billg 24/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Will Calvert
funsized 22/Jul/16 Lead RP

Disco legs at the final moves! Surprised myself on 2RP.

with Josh
Joshua Robertson 08/Jul/16 Lead RP

One of the best routes at Kilnsey

ollyisaclimber 07/Jul/16 Lead RP

Great route. 3rd redpoint after trying a couple of times on a rope. A bit run-out but that just adds to the experience!

Misha 03/Jul/16 Lead RP

Got it! First go was feeling a bit tired from two goes the day before. Didn't make it to the big flattie below the overlap, then clean from the knee bar to the last bolt but couldn't finish in one, easy after a rest though. Second go wasn't expecting to redpoint but got all the moves pretty much spot on and milked the rests. At the last bolt used the well chalked jug at the top of the Balas groove for a better rest position, which I hadn't done before. Managed to get a good shakeout, so the the top crux went fine. Really pleased to get this one - three days and six goes overall. Hardjer than Space Race but not quite as hard as Tremelo (the crux on that is harder). Will have to try something steep next time (this being a slab by Kilnsey standards).

with Eszter
Misha 02/Jul/16 Lead dog

Two goes. First go unexpectedly got through the crux but pumped out on the move to the flattie below the fourth bolt. Bolt to bolt from there. Second go pumped out just before the move to the flattie, then managed to link it from the knee bar to the last bolt. Several goes on the finishing sequence - heartbreaker! Reckon that would be the redpoint crux.

with Eszter
soph 25/Jun/16 Lead dog
with Will perret smith
robertmctague 14/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Mike
Misha 11/Jun/16 Lead dog

One and a half goes. Theo traversed on from Balas for the first bolt as just outside clip stick range. First go we couldn't figure out the start but I got all the other moves. Crux at the square cut feature felt very on/off. A few pumpy moves to the distant bolt above. Nothing hard after that but sustained. Second go figured out the start with a bit of beta from the regulars. A series of dynamic moves, get the balance right and it's not too bad. Also figured out a static way of getting to the flatties above the square cut feature (L knee into the groove, undercut with R, twist in while pushing a bit with R foot below, reach up with L) but too pumped to get to the next bolt. Next time!

with Theo
nickmoulden ?/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
JCAshman 30/May/16 Lead RP
samwillo 16/May/16 Lead

2nd go.. Hard to onsight. Brilliant route

piken ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead β
Hidden 02/Sep/15 Lead RP
richgibson 02/Sep/15 Lead RP
with Tim Wise
Luke Dawson 21/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Flo Tilley
will smith11 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Luke
Rob Grant 09/Jul/15 -
Matt Cooke 20/Jun/15 Lead RP
robertmichaellovell 20/Jun/15 TR dog

A way to go, couple of plays

with Tim
Leon Laubscher 18/Jun/15 Lead RP
Dave Mayes 12/Jun/15 Lead RP

1st redders, so good

with Shakira
julesp 07/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Iain
julesp 06/Jun/15 TR RP

Run out!!!

with Iain
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24/May/15 Lead RP
JamesTurnbull97 16/May/15 Lead RP

Pleased to finally do it, tried to last year but was too scared to lead it. 4th RP today after falling going for the finishing jug twice!

Seb Grieve ??/2015 -
henry peter jenkins 09/Sep/14 Lead dog

well scary! want to go back for the clean acsent though :)

with kev
morganator 05/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Tom Bridgeland
Hidden 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
JBO 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

A tough onsight, very blind finish.

chris_j_s 31/Aug/14 Lead dog

Good to get on such a classic route. Hard!

with James McCartan
julesp 24/Aug/14 TR dog

Main body wired still to work start and get sequence for top above rest

with Iain
jesse rees 05/Aug/14 Lead RP
Ally Smith 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Donnelly, Will K
oread 16/Jul/14 Lead RP

2 sessions, first 7b+

Harry Holmes 10/Jul/14 TR RP
with Oli Read
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 21/Jun/14 Lead RP

Tried last year. Clips in 1st RP. Full value.

PeteH 16/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Tim Lowe, Kev Avery
Bennykr 16/Jun/14 Lead RP

Amazing climbing. First go today putting clips in.

with Will smith, Andy tappa
markalmack 15/Jun/14 Lead RP
with little tom, chris todd, Dave morse
innes 14/Jun/14 Lead β

Pleased with this. Not quite on sight having done Balas in 2000!

with Tim
Hidden 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
bigie bob 31/May/14 Lead O/S
rikbattye 25/May/14 Lead RP

Did it clean on TR first go, then did it. The hundreds of bright tick marks may of helped!! It was like climbing a indoor route.

Smith42 17/May/14 Lead RP
with James
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead RP
Smith42 10/May/14 TR RP
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead RP
andy jennings 22/Sep/13 TR dog
with keith
Hidden 08/Sep/13 TR
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead RP
Ian Broome 14/Jul/13 TR dog

did all the moves, redpoint next time. really good.

Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead dog
khawk 04/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with DT
datoon 04/Jul/13 Lead RP
with K
dominic lee 15/Jun/13 Lead RP
Howard Lawledge 08/Sep/12 Lead RP
with dave
C coldwell-storry 06/Sep/12 Lead RP
with liam taylor
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead RP
Simon Davis 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Went on this once about 10yrs ago. Couldn't remember a single thing about the route so taking the onsight.

with Alan Steele, Toby Denny
WB 04/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Chris
Hidden 02/Jul/12 Lead RP
thebigfriendlymoose 15/Jun/12 Lead RP

Lead putting the draws in (never having tried to lead it before) - the impetus of a possibly one-off scrounged belay (after my arranged partner had failed to turn up)!

with awsomal
thebigfriendlymoose 10/Jun/12 TR RP
Dan Jenkin 03/Jun/12 Lead RP

2nd go

highrepute 03/Jun/12 Lead RP
jacobjacob 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Pleased with this, my arms hurt all the way up. Moving left at the top was interesting!

Hidden 05/Oct/11 TR dnf
uptown 18/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sean_J
BenNorman 25/Jun/11 Lead dog

Fell off on lead just before last draw, well runout and well good, not my style but good to try such a classic, Hard!

with Will Buck
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead RP
jhs3jtmh ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
jfreeman 04/Sep/10 Lead β
ewen 04/Sep/10 Lead dog
NDD 24/Aug/10 Lead

Quite tricky.

with redpath
Mike Goldthorp 20/Jul/10 Lead RP

Awesome wall climbing! Fell off at the powerful undercut move on the flash, dogged to top, then got it 2nd redpoint after forgettin feet on 1st rp. Solid 7b+ (apparently conditions were poor)

Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead RP
JM ??/2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
JM ??/2010 -
Hidden 21/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Dave Bond 25/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Simon Wren
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Lead RP
Alex Mason 23/Jul/09 Lead RP

Clips in, top rope, sent. A lot more amenable than expected with wicked moves and a proper finish.

with Billy Laurence
marcpontin ?/Jul/09 TR dog
with huw
lx 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Really good. Tricky crux

with French Alex
Stewart B 21/Jun/09 Lead RP

2nd go. Terrifying!

with Ally, Mike, Redpath
Ally Baba 20/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Stewart B
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
willackers 06/Jul/08 Lead RP

Really good climbing from start to finish, fluffed the last moves on the on-sight then did it 1st RP.

with Tom Mills, Dan Walker
Hidden ??/2008 -
Oliver Wright ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead RP
ali_robb ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/07 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
mgeek ??/2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
Boy ??/2006 -
Henners 01/Sep/05 Lead RP
with Neil McGeek
Paul Clarke ??/2005 Lead
with Tony Burnell
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Sep/04 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 01/Jul/04 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Sep/03 Lead RP
Cassidy 25/Jun/02 Lead RP
with Scottish Raiding Party
GeoffG 27/May/99 TR
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/98 Lead RP
marky ??/1998 Lead RP
Hidden User 56 ??/1995 Lead RP
with whispering nic
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
with Ben, Bruce
ukb & bmc shark ??/1995 Lead rpt
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Steve Crowe 04/Jun/94 Lead O/S

Pleased to onsight this at the time.

with Andy Earl
Dave Musgrove 02/May/94 Lead dog

Well worked but a couple of stopper moves for me.

keefe ??/1993 -
crossleysm ?/Jul/92 Lead RP

1st RP

Hidden 03/Aug/91 Lead RP
Mike Owen 18/Jul/89 Lead β
with Pete Kirton
31 users have this on their wishlist
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set