Rockfax Description
A tremendous pitch taking the steep wall to the left of Balas. Continuously pressing moves and an easy-to-fluff finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Gomersall 1985. Originally a bold A5. Climbed without bolts by Martin Berzins 1987. The bolts have been in and out over the years but are now in and likely to stay.

Ticklists

Yorkshire Limestone Graded List, 28 Decent Sport Routes, Northern Limestone for Catalans

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UserDateNotes
richardh 17 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: if the bolts were replaced "recently", they must not have been stainless, they're in a pretty rusty state right now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: if the bolts were replaced "recently", they must not have been stainless, they're in a pretty rusty state right now.
Andy Farnell 30 Jul, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: definately worth 7b+ if you go all the way to the top. Only 7b to the lower belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: definately worth 7b+ if you go all the way to the top. Only 7b to the lower belay.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 3 Oct Lead RP
Hidden 8 Sep Lead dog
littleluke 8 Sep 2nd RP
Hazel Dearlove 17 Aug Lead RP
felixwilkins 13 Aug Lead β
Jono_1989 8 Aug Lead RP
Hidden 3 Aug TR dog
spidermonkey09 1 Aug Lead RP From desperate to steady over the session. Very good moves. In anything other than good conditions this would feel the living end.
From desperate to steady over the session. Very good moves. In anything other than good conditions this would feel the living end.
Jmpollard 29 Jul Lead dog Figured out most of the moves now, just need to get the top dialled. Will need a bit more endurance I reckon. Great bold bolting!
Figured out most of the moves now, just need to get the top dialled. Will need a bit more endurance I reckon. Great bold bolting!
Jake Young 21 Jul Lead RP So happy to get this done, such a mega route. I'm kinda gutted I've got it done though as I enjoyed playing on it.
with mwatson
So happy to get this done, such a mega route. I'm kinda gutted I've got it done though as I enjoyed playing on it.
with mwatson
david morse 11 Jul Lead RP One of the best pitches at Kilnsey
with josh
One of the best pitches at Kilnsey
with josh
john lynch 5 Jul Lead dog Stunner. Full value wall climb! Tried one rp but rested twice. Must return, fantastic route!
with Felix
Stunner. Full value wall climb! Tried one rp but rested twice. Must return, fantastic route!
with Felix
GPN 3 Jul Lead RP Brilliant technical climbing - the spaced bolts add to the fun! Went 2nd RP, although with a bit of sketching near the top!
with Al Doig
Brilliant technical climbing - the spaced bolts add to the fun! Went 2nd RP, although with a bit of sketching near the top!
with Al Doig
Tophe 30 Jun Lead β I tried it several years ago but didn't make it far
I tried it several years ago but didn't make it far
dannyboy83 30 Jun Lead RP
with Tophe
with Tophe
jolucas 22 Jun Lead RP
with Iain
with Iain
John Thornton 20 Jun Lead RP
Jwatson 3 Jun Lead RP Well good. Fell off the middle runout on flash go, went next time round
Well good. Fell off the middle runout on flash go, went next time round
Rob Knowles 3 Jun Lead RP Second go, convinced I only stayed on as I was terrified of falling off the run outs
with Ruth Hardy, TomTeece
Second go, convinced I only stayed on as I was terrified of falling off the run outs
with Ruth Hardy, TomTeece
Hidden 26 May Lead dog
PeterDawson 18 May Lead O/S
Owen Diba 12 May Lead RP What a route!
What a route!
Hidden 22 Apr Lead RP
Matt Broadhurst 20 Apr Lead
Hidden ?? Lead
Emilysaladfingers 16 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Got on this when biological (the project) was wet, was always a bit intimidated by this line, I had a few top rope goes with boss beta from Pete. Managed to top rope from bolt one to the top with one take. Then managed two lead attempts before time ran out the Spain was calling! This is a totally brilliant line!! The start is nails if, like me, you're short and weak! Can't wait to get back on it!
with Pete H, L.miura
Got on this when biological (the project) was wet, was always a bit intimidated by this line, I had a few top rope goes with boss beta from Pete. Managed to top rope from bolt one to the top with one take. Then managed two lead attempts before time ran out the Spain was calling! This is a totally brilliant line!! The start is nails if, like me, you're short and weak! Can't wait to get back on it!
with Pete H, L.miura
Hidden 9 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
GeoffG 9 Jul, 2018 -
EddieTJ 21 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
with James Anforth
with James Anforth
Sankey 17 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Jason livesey 8 Jun, 2018 TR dog 3 goes, suffering after bout of flu so didn’t get to link all moves.
with Mali
3 goes, suffering after bout of flu so didn’t get to link all moves.
with Mali
Jason livesey 30 May, 2018 TR dog 2 goes, sussed out rest at top and finishing moves - tired....
with Mali
2 goes, sussed out rest at top and finishing moves - tired....
with Mali
John Kettle 29 May, 2018 Lead RP
Keendan 26 May, 2018 Lead dog Fun to try at the end of a session. Super-endurance climbing with lots of small potential rests if you have the presence of mind/control to use them.
Fun to try at the end of a session. Super-endurance climbing with lots of small potential rests if you have the presence of mind/control to use them.
Jason livesey 23 May, 2018 TR dog 2 tries on TR, need to suss finishing move out.
with Mali
2 tries on TR, need to suss finishing move out.
with Mali
will9911 22 May, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 20 May, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 4 May, 2018 Lead RP
Climber53 ??, 2018 -
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 Lead
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
nicolat 3 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
Apharri 24 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Second go. Fluffed the onsight
Second go. Fluffed the onsight
Ramon Marin 21 Jul, 2017 Lead dog My god, nails
with viki harvey
My god, nails
with viki harvey
papashango 17 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Quality attempt on the ashes afterwards
with Anna
Quality attempt on the ashes afterwards
with Anna
Paul Figg 13 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Whoop whoop, the send train arrived. Fantastic quality wall climb, nearly blew it at the top. Thanks to Mr Bass and Conner for the encouragement.
Whoop whoop, the send train arrived. Fantastic quality wall climb, nearly blew it at the top. Thanks to Mr Bass and Conner for the encouragement.
samrad 9 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with Pete
with Pete
Steve Hickie 7 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Great route
with Rob Sandercock
Great route
with Rob Sandercock
Hidden 7 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
ohyeahhh 25 Jun, 2017 TR dnf
soph 23 Jun, 2017 Lead RP Misty midgy and drizzly day but super fun climbing - getting to good break at start was hard for me.
with Andy Cave
Misty midgy and drizzly day but super fun climbing - getting to good break at start was hard for me.
with Andy Cave
soph 4 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Figured out beta again but fell off- bit tired. Will I get back before I forget beta again?! So much more fun than cheedale
Figured out beta again but fell off- bit tired. Will I get back before I forget beta again?! So much more fun than cheedale
Paul Figg 24 May, 2017 Lead dog Can do all the moves, just need the stamina to link it, found the good rest below the last bolt so there is hope.
Can do all the moves, just need the stamina to link it, found the good rest below the last bolt so there is hope.
Hidden ??, 2017 -
nickmoulden 23 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
dan gibson 12 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
with Katerina petkova
with Katerina petkova
nickmoulden 2 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
FloTilley 27 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
nige 10 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
with ewan mccallum
with ewan mccallum
Cailean Harker 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Happy to insight this classic
Happy to insight this classic
Billg 24 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
with Will Calvert
with Will Calvert
funsized 22 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Disco legs at the final moves! Surprised myself on 2RP.
with Josh
Disco legs at the final moves! Surprised myself on 2RP.
with Josh
Joshua Robertson 8 Jul, 2016 Lead RP One of the best routes at Kilnsey
One of the best routes at Kilnsey
ollyisaclimber 7 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Great route. 3rd redpoint after trying a couple of times on a rope. A bit run-out but that just adds to the experience!
Great route. 3rd redpoint after trying a couple of times on a rope. A bit run-out but that just adds to the experience!
Misha 3 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Got it! First go was feeling a bit tired from two goes the day before. Didn't make it to the big flattie below the overlap, then clean from the knee bar to the last bolt but couldn't finish in one, easy after a rest though. Second go wasn't expecting to redpoint but got all the moves pretty much spot on and milked the rests. At the last bolt used the well chalked jug at the top of the Balas groove for a better rest position, which I hadn't done before. Managed to get a good shakeout, so the top crux went fine. Really pleased to get this one - three days and six goes overall. Harder than Space Race but not quite as hard as Tremelo (the crux on that is harder). Will have to try something steep next time (this being a slab by Kilnsey standards).
with eszter
Got it! First go was feeling a bit tired from two goes the day before. Didn't make it to the big flattie below the overlap, then clean from the knee bar to the last bolt but couldn't finish in one, easy after a rest though. Second go wasn't expecting to redpoint but got all the moves pretty much spot on and milked the rests. At the last bolt used the well chalked jug at the top of the Balas groove for a better rest position, which I hadn't done before. Managed to get a good shakeout, so the top crux went fine. Really pleased to get this one - three days and six goes overall. Harder than Space Race but not quite as hard as Tremelo (the crux on that is harder). Will have to try something steep next time (this being a slab by Kilnsey standards).
with eszter
Misha 2 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Two goes. First go unexpectedly got through the crux but pumped out on the move to the flattie below the fourth bolt. Bolt to bolt from there. Second go pumped out just before the move to the flattie, then managed to link it from the knee bar to the last bolt. Several goes on the finishing sequence - heartbreaker! Reckon that would be the redpoint crux.
with eszter
Two goes. First go unexpectedly got through the crux but pumped out on the move to the flattie below the fourth bolt. Bolt to bolt from there. Second go pumped out just before the move to the flattie, then managed to link it from the knee bar to the last bolt. Several goes on the finishing sequence - heartbreaker! Reckon that would be the redpoint crux.
with eszter
soph 25 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
with Will perret smith
with Will perret smith
robertmctague 14 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
with Mike
with Mike
Misha 11 Jun, 2016 Lead dog One and a half goes. Theo traversed on from Balas for the first bolt as just outside clip stick range. First go we couldn't figure out the start but I got all the other moves. Crux at the square cut feature felt very on/off. A few pumpy moves to the distant bolt above. Nothing hard after that but sustained. Second go figured out the start with a bit of beta from the regulars. A series of dynamic moves, get the balance right and it's not too bad. Also figured out a static way of getting to the flatties above the square cut feature (L knee into the groove, undercut with R, twist in while pushing a bit with R foot below, reach up with L) but too pumped to get to the next bolt. Next time!
One and a half goes. Theo traversed on from Balas for the first bolt as just outside clip stick range. First go we couldn't figure out the start but I got all the other moves. Crux at the square cut feature felt very on/off. A few pumpy moves to the distant bolt above. Nothing hard after that but sustained. Second go figured out the start with a bit of beta from the regulars. A series of dynamic moves, get the balance right and it's not too bad. Also figured out a static way of getting to the flatties above the square cut feature (L knee into the groove, undercut with R, twist in while pushing a bit with R foot below, reach up with L) but too pumped to get to the next bolt. Next time!
nickmoulden ?Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
JCAshman 30 May, 2016 Lead RP
samwillo 16 May, 2016 Lead 2nd go.. Hard to onsight. Brilliant route
2nd go.. Hard to onsight. Brilliant route
piken ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
W d c ??, 2016 Lead RP Class.
with Billg
Class.
with Billg
Hidden 27 Sep, 2015 Lead β
Hidden 2 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
richgibson 2 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
with Tim Wise
with Tim Wise
Luke Dawson 21 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
with Flo Tilley
with Flo Tilley
will smith11 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Luke
with Luke
Hidden 9 Jul, 2015 -
Matt Cooke 20 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
robertmichaellovell 20 Jun, 2015 TR dog A way to go, couple of plays
with Tim
A way to go, couple of plays
with Tim
Leon Laubscher 18 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Dave Mayes 12 Jun, 2015 Lead RP 1st redders, so good
with oread
1st redders, so good
with oread
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 TR RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24 May, 2015 Lead RP
JamesTurnbull97 16 May, 2015 Lead RP Pleased to finally do it, tried to last year but was too scared to lead it. 4th RP today after falling going for the finishing jug twice!
Pleased to finally do it, tried to last year but was too scared to lead it. 4th RP today after falling going for the finishing jug twice!
Seb Grieve ??, 2015 -
henry peter jenkins 9 Sep, 2014 Lead dog well scary! want to go back for the clean acsent though :)
with kev
well scary! want to go back for the clean acsent though :)
with kev
morganator 5 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
with Tom Bridgeland
with Tom Bridgeland
Hidden 2 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
JBO 2 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S A tough onsight, very blind finish.
A tough onsight, very blind finish.
chris_j_s 31 Aug, 2014 Lead dog Good to get on such a classic route. Hard!
with James McCartan
Good to get on such a classic route. Hard!
with James McCartan
ben.meakin 26 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 TR dog
jesse rees 5 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
Ally Smith 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Matt Donnelly, bubblewrap
with Matt Donnelly, bubblewrap
oread 16 Jul, 2014 Lead RP 2 sessions, first 7b+
2 sessions, first 7b+
Harry Holmes 10 Jul, 2014 TR RP
with Oli Read
with Oli Read
Hidden 28 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 21 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Tried last year. Clips in 1st RP. Full value.
Tried last year. Clips in 1st RP. Full value.
PeteH 16 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
with Tim Lowe, Kev Avery
with Tim Lowe, Kev Avery
Bennykr 16 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Amazing climbing. First go today putting clips in.
with Will smith, atapper21
Amazing climbing. First go today putting clips in.
with Will smith, atapper21
markalmack 15 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
with little tom, ctodd, david morse
with little tom, ctodd, david morse
innes 14 Jun, 2014 Lead β Pleased with this. Not quite on sight having done Balas in 2000!
with Tim
Pleased with this. Not quite on sight having done Balas in 2000!
with Tim
Hidden 11 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 Lead RP
bigie bob 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 17 May, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 17 May, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 10 May, 2014 TR RP
ChrisDavis 4 May, 2014 Lead RP
andy jennings 22 Sep, 2013 TR dog
with keith
with keith
Hidden 8 Sep, 2013 TR
Hidden ?Sep, 2013 Lead
Hidden 27 Jul, 2013 Lead RP
Ian Broome 14 Jul, 2013 TR dog did all the moves, redpoint next time. really good.
did all the moves, redpoint next time. really good.
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
khawk 4 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt
with datoon
with datoon
datoon 4 Jul, 2013 Lead RP
with K
with K
dominic lee 15 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
Ledgelaw 8 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
with dave
with dave
C coldwell-storry 6 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
with liam taylor
with liam taylor
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 Lead RP
Simon Davis 12 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Went on this once about 10yrs ago. Couldn't remember a single thing about the route so taking the onsight.
with Alan Steele, Toby Denny
Went on this once about 10yrs ago. Couldn't remember a single thing about the route so taking the onsight.
with Alan Steele, Toby Denny
WB 4 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 2 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
thebigfriendlymoose 15 Jun, 2012 Lead RP Lead putting the draws in (never having tried to lead it before) - the impetus of a possibly one-off scrounged belay (after my arranged partner had failed to turn up)!
with awsomal
Lead putting the draws in (never having tried to lead it before) - the impetus of a possibly one-off scrounged belay (after my arranged partner had failed to turn up)!
with awsomal
Dan Jenkin 3 Jun, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
highrepute 3 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
jacobjacob 29 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Pleased with this, my arms hurt all the way up. Moving left at the top was interesting!
Pleased with this, my arms hurt all the way up. Moving left at the top was interesting!
Hidden 5 Oct, 2011 TR dnf
uptown 18 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Sean_J
with Sean_J
BenNorman 25 Jun, 2011 Lead dog Fell off on lead just before last draw, well runout and well good, not my style but good to try such a classic, Hard!
with Will Buck
Fell off on lead just before last draw, well runout and well good, not my style but good to try such a classic, Hard!
with Will Buck
Hidden 19 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 27 May, 2011 Lead RP
jhs3jtmh ??, 2011 Lead
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead
jfreeman 4 Sep, 2010 Lead β
with ewen
with ewen
ewen 4 Sep, 2010 Lead dog
NDD 24 Aug, 2010 Lead Quite tricky.
with redpath
Quite tricky.
with redpath
Sut 23 Aug, 2010 Lead
Mike Goldthorp 20 Jul, 2010 Lead RP Awesome wall climbing! Fell off at the powerful undercut move on the flash, dogged to top, then got it 2nd redpoint after forgettin feet on 1st rp. Solid 7b+ (apparently conditions were poor)
Awesome wall climbing! Fell off at the powerful undercut move on the flash, dogged to top, then got it 2nd redpoint after forgettin feet on 1st rp. Solid 7b+ (apparently conditions were poor)
Hidden 12 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
JM ??, 2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??, 2010 Lead
JM ??, 2010 -
Hidden 21 Sep, 2009 Lead dnf
Dave Bond 25 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
with SiW
with SiW
Hidden 15 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
Alex Mason 23 Jul, 2009 Lead RP Clips in, top rope, sent. A lot more amenable than expected with wicked moves and a proper finish.
with Billy Laurence
Clips in, top rope, sent. A lot more amenable than expected with wicked moves and a proper finish.
with Billy Laurence
hamer89 3 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
marcpontin ?Jul, 2009 TR dog
with huw
with huw
lx 21 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Really good. Tricky crux
with French Alex
Really good. Tricky crux
with French Alex
Stewart B 21 Jun, 2009 Lead RP 2nd go. Terrifying!
with Ally, Mike, Redpath
2nd go. Terrifying!
with Ally, Mike, Redpath
Ally Baba 20 Jun, 2009 Lead RP
with Stewart B
with Stewart B
Hidden ?Sep, 2008 -
Hidden 6 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Oliver Wright ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 Lead RP
ali_robb ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2007 Lead dnf
Hidden ?Jun, 2007 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead RP
hutch ?Jul, 2006 Lead β
mgeek ??, 2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
with Tom Bolger
Boy ??, 2006 -
Henners 1 Sep, 2005 Lead RP
with Neil McGeek
with Neil McGeek
Eduardo Martinez 12 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead RP
Hidden 9 Sep, 2004 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 1 Jul, 2004 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Sep, 2003 Lead RP
Nige M 6 Jun, 2003 Lead RP
with Jenny W
with Jenny W
Cassidy 25 Jun, 2002 Lead RP
with Scottish Raiding Party
with Scottish Raiding Party
accynez 13 Jul, 1999 Lead RP
GeoffG 27 May, 1999 TR
Hidden ?Jun, 1998 Lead RP
marky ??, 1998 Lead RP
Andy Farnell ??, 1995 Lead RP
with whispering nic
with whispering nic
rob.grafton ??, 1995 -
with Ben, Bruce
with Ben, Bruce
UKB Shark ??, 1995 Lead rpt
robyn1 ??, 1995 -
Steve Crowe 4 Jun, 1994 Lead O/S Pleased to onsight this at the time.
with Andy Earl
Pleased to onsight this at the time.
with Andy Earl
Dave Musgrove 2 May, 1994 Lead dog Well worked but a couple of stopper moves for me.
Well worked but a couple of stopper moves for me.
keefe ??, 1993 -
crossleysm ?Jul, 1992 Lead RP 1st RP
1st RP
Hidden 3 Aug, 1991 Lead RP
Mike Owen 18 Jul, 1989 Lead β
with Pete Kirton
with Pete Kirton
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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 63
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set