Rockfax Description
A brilliant first pitch with great moves and good rock. 1) 6a, 30m. Start below a short hanging corner. Pull though a bulge on to a slab (usually a bit left of the corner). Move up to the roof then trend up leftwards to a peg. Make a hard move back right underneath the peg then step up to a ledge. Continue to a break then up past a thread to a short groove on the left. Climb up then step right and move up to the breaks and traverse off left to a tree and good bolt belay. Best to finish here. 2) 5a, 15m. Pitch 2 goes up the dirty groove above. © Rockfax

FA. Al Austin, B.Fuller (Aid) 1961. FFA. P.Livesey, J.Sheard 1972

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Good E4s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Hidden 03/Sep Lead β
WB 03/Sep Lead O/S

Impressive route finding. This would be much better it the lower off was at the top of the first pitch, not 5 metres to the side. It might get climbed a bit more then, which would clean it up and make it much more enjoyable.

with Anna
JenShelley 14/May 2nd
FlavioL1989 14/May Lead
Hidden ??/2017 -
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13/Aug/16 Lead G/U

Tried it last year and fell off the crux. Went OK this time, although the crux is still tough, especially after some sport climbing. Once you're on the slab it's mostly 5b to the top.

JBO 07/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Tough! Definitely underestimated it, I was surprised to find such a hard crux and run-out top section. This was confounded by the fact that I was climbing on a sports rope so had to miss any pro that was too far to either side.

Scott Quinn 16/Aug/15 Lead G/U

dusty as hell....the crux felt 6b and above has the odd 6a above some pretty significant run outs (also not a slab!). surely e5 6b - glad to know I'm not the only one that thinks this. Very memorable experience though!

robertmctague 14/Jun/15 Lead
with Theo
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/15 2nd
phil64 ??/2015 -
Duncan Campbell 30/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Felt tired from the off. First go up fell pulling onto the 'slab'. Had a breather and then got through the crux (hard) riding a wave of lactic acid. Got tunnel vision and clipped the thread from low down nearly falling in the process. Grabbed the thread and bailed. Know what I'm doing now so will go back and have another go for sure.

Nick Clement 27/Jul/14 Lead
with Paul Figg
Paul Figg 27/Jul/14 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Shame it doesn't get climbed more often. Great route, if a little dusty, but well worth seeking out nonetheless

Ally Smith 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Peg is looking manky now, but good back-ups available just below.

with AJM
AJM 27/Jul/13 2nd dog

Pinged off the start. Then fell off crux as flash pumped and due to communication issues couldn't get back down to the rest.

Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
markalmack 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S

I didn't enjoy it as much as the stars made out, probably due to the route being very dirty and a few loose bits...

uptown 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
akhughes 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

should have warmed up and it would have felt a whole lot easier. great route though.

Dan Mckinlay ?/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Mike Goldthorp 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Great stuff. Tough crux, solid 6a, with gear quite low below you (ring on peg looks very flimsy now) but good rest soon after, and then steadier but still sustained climbing above. was told top section was very run out but there is some gear to be had.

Steve Crowe 05/Jul/10 Lead rpt

20 years after my first ascent, I led this then top roped White Rushin' and High Octane

with KM
Adam Lincoln 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Arran Deakin
pezzerrr 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 -
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd rpt
middlevern ?/May/09 2nd dog

Running with water, dirty and far harder than expected. Impressive lead by Toby. Again.

Toby Dunn 09/Apr/09 Lead
with Nick Verney
Boy ?/Apr/09 -
with Nez
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
stevebarratt ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
Alex Mason 29/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Awesome route, good crux, then the rest is continuously sustained, just, just made made it hands peeled just as i grabbed the flimsy tree, near miss of a 40footer.

Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
marky ??/2008 Lead O/S


JulesV ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden User 56 29/Aug/06 Lead dog

E4 6a my arse. The move past the peg felt solid 6b (must have missed something...) and another hard sction higher up with a big run-out to tthe break. More like E5 6b IMHO

with whispering nic
whispering nic 29/Aug/06 2nd


Ram MkiV 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S

felt like a long slog - Dave timed it; 1hr15mins apparently. Quality

with Dave and Alex
Enty ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
nige 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Hidden 01/Sep/03 Lead O/S
shoulders 10/Jul/02 2nd O/S
with alexis
phil64 01/Apr/00 -
D Tempest 20/Jun/99 Lead
with Rick
GeoffG 17/Jun/99 Lead
innes ??/1999 Lead O/S

With Si Taylor.

Billg ??/1999 -
Hidden 26/Jul/98 Lead dog
Ian Jones ??/1998 Lead O/S

Superb but easy.

with Karen Ghiselli
Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Aug/97 Lead
ellis ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/1995 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
with Ben, Bruce
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
nokishatov 01/Sep/94 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 13/Jul/94 2nd
with Robert Durran
Paul Figg 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 02/May/94 2nd rpt
Roget 28/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with jon
jfletcher 21/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/93 Lead
mattnuttall 06/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Stoney Boy 10/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Neil McCallum
Alastair R ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Feb/93 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Dave Musgrove 19/Jul/92 2nd
with Rupert Wyard
Rich Kirby 08/Jul/92 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull 13/Jun/92 Lead
with Nigel Birtwell, Dave Langrish
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead RP
andybirtwistle 15/Sep/90 2nd
Steve Crowe 15/Sep/90 Lead O/S

Cruised it, what a classic. Powerful and technical.

ukb & bmc shark 09/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 05/Jun/90 2nd
with Bill Williamson
Dave Musgrove 03/May/90 Lead

1 brief rest near the top after backing off the final run-out. Once I'd regained my composure it went easily next time - most annoyed with myself.

with Kim Greenald
Hidden ?/May/90 -
Hidden User 56 ??/1990 2nd
with Graham Iles
keefe ??/1990 -
Hidden 04/Aug/89 AltLd
uphillnow 23/May/89 2nd
with john stanger
Hidden ?/May/89 2nd
Smith42 ??/1989 -
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Sean Coffey
Eduardo Martinez 26/Aug/88 Lead O/S
Bob 01/Jun/88 2nd O/S

Awkward section through the bottom bulge but OK after that.

with al phizacklea
andybirtwistle 21/May/88 Lead
with Ian Kyle
Campbell42 03/May/88 2nd O/S
with Adam Wainwright
Hidden ?/Jun/87 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
jon 12/Jul/86 Lead
with H
Hidden 09/Jul/85 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 05/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Simon King
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden ?/Nov/84 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1982 Lead
with Roger Brookes, Mick Tolley
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 39
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set