Rockfax Description
A brilliant first pitch with great moves and good rock. 1) 6a, 30m. Start below a short hanging corner. Pull though a bulge on to a slab (usually a bit left of the corner). Move up to the roof then trend up leftwards to a peg. Make a hard move back right underneath the peg then step up to a ledge. Continue to a break then up past a thread to a short groove on the left. Climb up then step right and move up to the breaks and traverse off left to a tree and good bolt belay. Best to finish here. 2) 5a, 15m. Pitch 2 goes up the dirty groove above. © Rockfax

FA. Al Austin, B.Fuller (Aid) 1961. FFA. P.Livesey, J.Sheard 1972

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Good E4s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Yorkshire Limestone top 50

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 12 Jul Lead β
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox 18 Mar -
Hidden 3 Sep, 2017 Lead β
WB 3 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Impressive route finding. This would be much better it the lower off was at the top of the first pitch, not 5 metres to the side. It might get climbed a bit more then, which would clean it up and make it much more enjoyable.
with Anna
Impressive route finding. This would be much better it the lower off was at the top of the first pitch, not 5 metres to the side. It might get climbed a bit more then, which would clean it up and make it much more enjoyable.
with Anna
JendeHoxar 14 May, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 14 May, 2017 Lead I must have looked like some kind of alien from outer space climbing trad at Kilnsey, setting off with a harness full of weird gear after having snacked most of the way through a bumper pack of mini pork pies!
I must have looked like some kind of alien from outer space climbing trad at Kilnsey, setting off with a harness full of weird gear after having snacked most of the way through a bumper pack of mini pork pies!
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13 Aug, 2016 Lead G/U Tried it last year and fell off the crux. Went OK this time, although the crux is still tough, especially after some sport climbing. Once you're on the slab it's mostly 5b to the top.
Tried it last year and fell off the crux. Went OK this time, although the crux is still tough, especially after some sport climbing. Once you're on the slab it's mostly 5b to the top.
JBO 7 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Tough! Definitely underestimated it, I was surprised to find such a hard crux and run-out top section. This was confounded by the fact that I was climbing on a sports rope so had to miss any pro that was too far to either side.
Tough! Definitely underestimated it, I was surprised to find such a hard crux and run-out top section. This was confounded by the fact that I was climbing on a sports rope so had to miss any pro that was too far to either side.
Scott Quinn 16 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U dusty as hell....the crux felt 6b and above has the odd 6a above some pretty significant run outs (also not a slab!).
dusty as hell....the crux felt 6b and above has the odd 6a above some pretty significant run outs (also not a slab!).
robertmctague 14 Jun, 2015 Lead
Hidden 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 May, 2015 2nd
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Duncan Campbell 30 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Felt tired from the off. First go up fell pulling onto the 'slab'. Had a breather and then got through the crux (hard) riding a wave of lactic acid. Got tunnel vision and clipped the thread from low down nearly falling in the process. Grabbed the thread and bailed. Know what I'm doing now so will go back and have another go for sure.
Felt tired from the off. First go up fell pulling onto the 'slab'. Had a breather and then got through the crux (hard) riding a wave of lactic acid. Got tunnel vision and clipped the thread from low down nearly falling in the process. Grabbed the thread and bailed. Know what I'm doing now so will go back and have another go for sure.
Nick Clement 27 Jul, 2014 Lead
with Paul Figg
with Paul Figg
Paul Figg 27 Jul, 2014 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 20 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Shame it doesn't get climbed more often. Great route, if a little dusty, but well worth seeking out nonetheless
Shame it doesn't get climbed more often. Great route, if a little dusty, but well worth seeking out nonetheless
Ally Smith 28 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Peg is looking manky now, but good back-ups available just below.
with AJM
Peg is looking manky now, but good back-ups available just below.
with AJM
AJM 27 Jul, 2013 2nd dog Pinged off the start. Then fell off crux as flash pumped and due to communication issues couldn't get back down to the rest.
Pinged off the start. Then fell off crux as flash pumped and due to communication issues couldn't get back down to the rest.
Hidden 26 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2013 2nd
markalmack 1 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S I didn't enjoy it as much as the stars made out, probably due to the route being very dirty and a few loose bits...
with ctodd
I didn't enjoy it as much as the stars made out, probably due to the route being very dirty and a few loose bits...
with ctodd
uptown 28 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Dave Parton ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
akhughes 11 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S should have warmed up and it would have felt a whole lot easier. great route though.
should have warmed up and it would have felt a whole lot easier. great route though.
Dan Mckinlay ?Aug, 2010 Lead rpt
Mike Goldthorp 19 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Great stuff. Tough crux, solid 6a, with gear quite low below you (ring on peg looks very flimsy now) but good rest soon after, and then steadier but still sustained climbing above. was told top section was very run out but there is some gear to be had.
Great stuff. Tough crux, solid 6a, with gear quite low below you (ring on peg looks very flimsy now) but good rest soon after, and then steadier but still sustained climbing above. was told top section was very run out but there is some gear to be had.
Steve Crowe 5 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt 20 years after my first ascent, I led this then top roped White Rushin' and High Octane
with karin
20 years after my first ascent, I led this then top roped White Rushin' and High Octane
with karin
Adam Lincoln 2 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Arran Deakin
with Arran Deakin
pezzerrr 20 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2010 -
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 26 Jun, 2009 2nd rpt
middlevern ?May, 2009 2nd dog Running with water, dirty and far harder than expected. Impressive lead by Toby. Again.
Running with water, dirty and far harder than expected. Impressive lead by Toby. Again.
Toby Dunn 9 Apr, 2009 Lead
with Nick Verney
with Nick Verney
Boy ?Apr, 2009 -
with Nez
with Nez
Seymore Butt ??, 2009 Lead
with Spuz
with Spuz
stevebarratt ??, 2009 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
with Nathan Lawrence
Alex Mason 29 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S Awesome route, good crux, then the rest is continuously sustained, just, just made made it hands peeled just as i grabbed the flimsy tree, near miss of a 40footer.
Awesome route, good crux, then the rest is continuously sustained, just, just made made it hands peeled just as i grabbed the flimsy tree, near miss of a 40footer.
Hidden 14 Jun, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 -
marky ??, 2008 Lead O/S Magic
Magic
JulesV ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Andy Farnell 29 Aug, 2006 Lead dog E4 6a my arse. The move past the peg felt solid 6b (must have missed something...) and another hard sction higher up with a big run-out to tthe break. More like E5 6b IMHO
with whispering nic
E4 6a my arse. The move past the peg felt solid 6b (must have missed something...) and another hard sction higher up with a big run-out to tthe break. More like E5 6b IMHO
with whispering nic
whispering nic 29 Aug, 2006 2nd Nails!
Nails!
Ram MkiV 8 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S felt like a long slog - Dave timed it; 1hr15mins apparently. Quality
with Dave and Alex
felt like a long slog - Dave timed it; 1hr15mins apparently. Quality
with Dave and Alex
Enty ??, 2006 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
nige 27 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Hidden 1 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
shoulders 10 Jul, 2002 2nd O/S
with alexis
with alexis
phil64 1 Apr, 2000 -
D Tempest 20 Jun, 1999 Lead
with Rick
with Rick
GeoffG 17 Jun, 1999 Lead
innes ??, 1999 Lead O/S With Si Taylor.
With Si Taylor.
Billg ??, 1999 -
steveb2006 26 Jul, 1998 Lead dog 1 fall on crux - annoying
with Rob Gambles
1 fall on crux - annoying
with Rob Gambles
Neil McA 14 May, 1998 2nd rpt
with Rad
with Rad
Ian Jones ??, 1998 Lead O/S Superb but easy.
with Karen Ghiselli
Superb but easy.
with Karen Ghiselli
Dave Musgrove Jnr 9 Aug, 1997 Lead
Si Witcher 9 Aug, 1997 2nd
ellis ??, 1997 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1995 Lead O/S
keefe ??, 1995 -
rob.grafton ??, 1995 -
with Ben, Bruce
with Ben, Bruce
robyn1 ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
accynez 3 Sep, 1994 Lead
Mike_d78 1 Sep, 1994 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Bruce Kerr 13 Jul, 1994 2nd
with Robert Durran
with Robert Durran
Paul Figg 12 Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 2 May, 1994 2nd rpt
Roget 28 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
jfletcher 21 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 1993 Lead
mattnuttall 6 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Stoney Boy 10 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
with accynez
with accynez
Alastair R ?Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Feb, 1993 Lead rpt
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
accynez ??, 1993 2nd
Dave Musgrove 19 Jul, 1992 2nd
with Rupert Wyard
with Rupert Wyard
Hidden 8 Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull 13 Jun, 1992 Lead
with Nigel Birtwell, Dave Langrish
with Nigel Birtwell, Dave Langrish
crossleysm ??, 1991 Lead RP
andybirtwistle 15 Sep, 1990 2nd
Steve Crowe 15 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S Cruised it, what a classic. Powerful and technical.
Cruised it, what a classic. Powerful and technical.
UKB Shark 9 Jul, 1990 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 5 Jun, 1990 2nd
with Bill Williamson
with Bill Williamson
Dave Musgrove 3 May, 1990 Lead 1 brief rest near the top after backing off the final run-out. Once I'd regained my composure it went easily next time - most annoyed with myself.
with Kim Greenald
1 brief rest near the top after backing off the final run-out. Once I'd regained my composure it went easily next time - most annoyed with myself.
with Kim Greenald
ajtay ?May, 1990 -
with Various
with Various
Andy Farnell ??, 1990 2nd
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
keefe ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden 4 Aug, 1989 AltLd
uphillnow 23 May, 1989 2nd
with john stanger
with john stanger
Hidden ?May, 1989 2nd
Hidden ??, 1989 -
Hidden ??, 1989 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 26 Aug, 1988 Lead O/S
Bob 1 Jun, 1988 2nd O/S Awkward section through the bottom bulge but OK after that.
with al phizacklea
Awkward section through the bottom bulge but OK after that.
with al phizacklea
andybirtwistle 21 May, 1988 Lead
with Ian Kyle
with Ian Kyle
Campbell42 3 May, 1988 2nd O/S
with Adam Wainwright
with Adam Wainwright
Hidden ?Jun, 1987 -
Neil McA 30 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Roy Ruddle
with Roy Ruddle
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 20 Sep, 1986 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Jul, 1986 Lead
Hidden 9 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 5 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
with Simon King
with Simon King
Dave Turnbull ?Jan, 1985 2nd
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Hidden ??, 1985 -
Pete Wimbush ??, 1985 Lead Nige Birtwell took a huge whipper off this, so I led it with gear in place up to about half height.
Nige Birtwell took a huge whipper off this, so I led it with gear in place up to about half height.
Hidden ?Nov, 1984 Lead
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 41
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set