Restricted Access
Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.
Rockfax Description
An awesome route with a hard first half and a bold second. Follow the first few moves of Barracuda to its initial break. Move right - thread - and then go on up past a bolt to the main break. Go rightwards to a good peg and run-it-out up the ramp to a break and a move left into Death Wish. Finish as for Death Wish. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Gomersall 1985. Gomersall eventually gives up on the bolt-free ethic and in the process puts up one of the best routes on the crag..
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blue Scar
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New Blade
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Earl Crag)