UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and fairly popular route.
1) 5c, 19m. Climb the wall leftwards to a vague grassy groove. Follow it, past a peg, to an old bolt then make hard moves past this. Move up to a sloping ledge below the level of the cave and belay on some large gear.
2) 5c, 21m. Climb up to the break and step right to below a corner. Pull up this and follow it to a sloping ledge. Take the ledge leftwards to join Carnage. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. R.Brown, M.White (aid) 1964. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1972.

Ticklists

Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Big Ron routes for mortals , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
phatlad 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An ok route, and not worth 5c, but an amusing traverse near the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An ok route, and not worth 5c, but an amusing traverse near the top
shark 28 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Saw you on it and inspired to do it the following weekend. I did it in one pitch but traversed left too early from groove on the 2nd pitch - a mistake I am sure I made when I last did it - 20 years ago. A great route spoilt only by poor rock on the first 20 feet.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Saw you on it and inspired to do it the following weekend. I did it in one pitch but traversed left too early from groove on the 2nd pitch - a mistake I am sure I made when I last did it - 20 years ago. A great route spoilt only by poor rock on the first 20 feet.
Grinning Donkey 21 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Quite surprised!! Did this route 20/03/05 and expected it to be polished to hell. Well it wasn't, the rock was sound and it was also very clean. Wey hey......
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite surprised!! Did this route 20/03/05 and expected it to be polished to hell. Well it wasn't, the rock was sound and it was also very clean. Wey hey......

Logged Ascents

204 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
West Sphinx Direct

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Wainstones)

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