UKC

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and fairly popular route.
1) 5c, 19m. Climb the wall leftwards to a vague grassy groove. Follow it, past a peg, to an old bolt then make hard moves past this. Move up to a sloping ledge below the level of the cave and belay on some large gear.
2) 5c, 21m. Climb up to the break and step right to below a corner. Pull up this and follow it to a sloping ledge. Take the ledge leftwards to join Carnage. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. R.Brown, M.White (aid) 1964. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1972

Ticklists: Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Scott Quinn 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S

One pitch, what an awesome route didnt let me down!

with tunnah
tunnah 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S

did in one pitch awesome!! has to be done in a oner

with scott
eb202 05/Aug/17 2nd dnf

Completed P1 onsight but was disappointed that I didn't get to try P2 as it started raining and was getting rather late. Fantastic engaging climbing all the same, moving up off some interesting undercut pockets at the crux where I thought I was off. Left forearm is still feeling a little sore from twisting my fingers into the pockets. Pulled up to the cave with relief and belayed in the dining room of the peregrines. Would like to come back to try P2.

with Michael
Mike505 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Wow an incredible route! Exactly what I needed to test/push my current level, Lead both pitches but didn't link them due to using all my small wires in the 1st pitch and feeling pretty fatigued after taking my time to commit to the crux which felt hard 5c for me with a turn brain off and go for it sequence. The second pitch felt much steadier but probably a little bolder in areas. The Carnage mantle is certainly a move, nearly peeled as a latched the hold above it. Unfortunately my partner got rained off the second pitch after absolutely storming up the first without breaking a sweat! All in all it was probably one of my hardest fought onsights. Edit 06/09/17: Probably my hardest E3 to date but still easier than Darius.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 09/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Done in a single pitch, which is definitely the way to do it (if you like long pitches). The route itself is a real journey: long, wild, wandering, and fully out there. It's a proper adventure!

with Fat Boy
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S

One pitch. Used entire rack.

deacondeacon 13/May/17 Lead O/S

First Pitch. Theo got the second pitch.

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13/May/17 AltLd O/S

P2. `Strenuous start up the crack to an exciting traverse across the sloping ledge. The mantle and moves to the top are hard but great. Excellent rock up there.

with Deacon
Hidden 07/May/17 AltLd O/S
Flavio 07/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
dan gibson 02/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Katerina petkova
Hidden 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 22/May/16 Lead dnf

1st pitch, as access to Carnage 2nd pitch.

with John Hunt, Will Hunt
PaulTanton 13/Mar/16 2nd rpt
with Andrew James
pie_eater_pete 16/Aug/15 -
markalmack 19/Jul/15 2nd rpt
WB 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Took so long I think Mark fell asleep.

benka 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

1 big pitch - amazing

with steve h
Hidden 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
markalmack 12/May/13 Lead O/S

1long pitch. Very nice!

Speeddemonsi 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

One pitch, fantastic route.

greenroom 15/Apr/12 2nd dog

Bleating like a spring lamb on second! Hid in the cave in snow showers.

gforce 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S

In one big pitch - worked well this way. At the top (in fact most of the way up) the wind was blowing a hoollie - felt wild! Brilliant route.

with Dave O
Jordan B 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

led p2

with Naomi Buys
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Jack00 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Anna
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
mattyork2 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S

2nd Pitch Only

Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd dog
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 29/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Brown 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with John
Phill Mitch ??/2007 AltLd O/S

I lead 1st pitch,mick lead 2nd.

with mick
Hidden 08/Jul/06 2nd O/S
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Graham Iles 21/Aug/04 AltLd

Lead second pitch.

with Michael Needham
pezzerrr 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/04 AltLd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Bruno Marks
Hidden 27/Jul/03 AltLd
nige 03/Jun/03 Lead
with mark hounslea
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
innes ??/1997 -
craig matheson ??/1997 -
switch ??/1997 AltLd O/S

amazing rock

Hidden 21/Sep/96 AltLd
Roget 27/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with jon
ste_d 26/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 25/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 16/Sep/95 AltLd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Sep/95 AltLd
with Dad
Andy Say 02/Sep/95 Lead
rob.grafton ??/1995 AltLd
with barry maybank, Bruce
Bullybones ??/1995 Lead
with KD
charlesmfrench 03/Sep/94 AltLd O/S

L,2.

with Keith Milne
Hidden 29/Aug/94 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 -
neilh 03/Oct/92 Lead
with sara hyde
Dave Musgrove 13/Sep/92 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 02/Aug/92 Lead rpt
pete johnson 19/Jul/92 Lead
with Mick Green
pete johnson 10/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Ashley Hardwell
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
with bernie bradbury
Stoney Boy 08/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Rob Harrison
jfletcher 31/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Tim Newton
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Mar/90 -
Andy Hyslop ?/Mar/90 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with Unsure
daviesxxx ??/1990 Lead β
keefe ??/1990 -
uphillnow ??/1990 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1990 -
with keefe
Alastair R ?/Sep/89 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ?/Jul/89 2nd O/S
with Ray Mardon
mark mcgowan01 ??/1989 -
johno072 ??/1989 AltLd
phardman 22/Oct/88 Lead O/S

Pitch one only

Dave Douglas 11/Sep/88 Lead O/S
sadams ?/Jun/88 AltLd
with Guy Townsend
andy gittins ??/1988 -
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
Billg 02/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
steve taylor ?/May/87 Lead O/S

My first "proper" E3

with Jim Waddington
steve taylor ?/May/87 AltLd
with Steve Williams
Hidden ?/Apr/87 AltLd
Eduardo Martinez ??/1987 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
Dave Musgrove 20/Sep/86 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Steve Crowe 25/Aug/86 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ?/Aug/86 AltLd

Same day we bottomed Juniper Gulf?

Andy Nicholson ?/Aug/86 AltLd O/S

In the afternoon we decended into Juniper's Gulf...Just for a change.

MikeYouCanClimb 27/Jul/86 Lead
with Dave Dowson
Hidden 13/Jul/86 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 08/Jun/86 AltLd
with Seb Grieve
Bruce Kerr 31/May/86 AltLd
with Grahame Nicoll
keefe 12/Apr/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Rich Kirby ??/1986 Lead
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
tmawer ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
andybirtwistle 19/Oct/85 Lead
with Malcolm Lowerson
Hidden 25/Jul/85 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/85 2nd
Hidden 16/May/85 AltLd rpt
Hidden 20/Apr/85 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Mar/85 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/1985 Lead
with Spuz
GaryM ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Nick, Dale
Dave Turnbull 13/May/84 Lead β
with Nigel Birtwell
Mike Owen 29/Apr/84 AltLd O/S
with Phil Davidson
stp 10/Aug/83 Lead O/S

pitch 1 only

Neil McA 10/Aug/83 2nd rpt
with Steve Lewis
Neil McA 13/Nov/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/82 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Neil McAdie
Derek Furze ??/1980 AltLd
KRB 10/Nov/79 Lead O/S

Chris was supposed to be taking me up Carnage but was off route! He backed off the 1st pitch so I led it. He backed off the 2nd pitch so I led it. It started to snow near the top and the holds were getting wet. I had so much rope drag that I had to pull through 20ft of rope just to get onto the top. A higher grade tick than I was expecting.

with Chris Parkin
Hidden 05/Mar/78 Lead
Bob Windsor ?/Aug/76 2nd
with Gordon Tinning
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set