Rockfax Description
10m. Superb bold and engrossing, and only a bit harder than the 1959 original version. Follow the bold start to West Sphinx Climb as far as the thin horizontal crack. Make a long move up to a pocket then slink off right to the forehead slab. Substantially harder for the short, especially the reach for the eye. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Traverse under the nose and make a hard move to get established on the face (gear). Make a long reach to a small pocket high on the wall then up and right onto the top of the slab. Awesome!
Ticklists
North York Moors - The Best... Arguably , Rockfax Northern England Top 50 , Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England , The Moorland Challenge 2 , A Summer in the Moors , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dave Warburton's Top 100
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jacktheclimber | 11 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cracking little route - take small cams a pinch of confidence. Pretty serious and then not | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Cracking little route - take small cams a pinch of confidence. Pretty serious and then not |
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| Graeme Hammond | 16 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easier physically, technically and better protected than many E1s with a modern rack of micro cams and wires and the skills to place these well (plus something bigger for the pocket), however E2 is fair. Shorter climbers may think it is harder and those without a modern rack may find the route considerably bolder. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Easier physically, technically and better protected than many E1s with a modern rack of micro cams and wires and the skills to place these well (plus something bigger for the pocket), however E2 is fair. Shorter climbers may think it is harder and those without a modern rack may find the route considerably bolder. |
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| Chris Shorter | 21 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The "eye" takes a very welcome Friend 2 1/2 or at least it did about 15 years ago when I last did it. The move for the eye is very reach dependent. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The "eye" takes a very welcome Friend 2 1/2 or at least it did about 15 years ago when I last did it. The move for the eye is very reach dependent. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wainstones
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Face Route
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Gordale Scar)