Rockfax Description
10m. Superb bold and engrossing, and only a bit harder than the 1959 original version. Follow the bold start to West Sphinx Climb as far as the thin horizontal crack. Make a long move up to a pocket then slink off right to the forehead slab. Substantially harder for the short, especially the reach for the eye. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Traverse under the nose and make a hard move to get established on the face (gear). Make a long reach to a small pocket high on the wall then up and right onto the top of the slab. Awesome!

Ticklists

NYMoors Classics, Rockfax Northern England Top 50, Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Chris Shorter 21 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The "eye" takes a very welcome Friend 2 1/2 or at least it did about 15 years ago when I last did it. The move for the eye is very reach dependent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The "eye" takes a very welcome Friend 2 1/2 or at least it did about 15 years ago when I last did it. The move for the eye is very reach dependent.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Whistle 21 Jun TR β
with Calvin
with Calvin
MartinJWood 20 Jun TR dog
with Katy Banner
with Katy Banner
UnicycleTallPaul 21 May 2nd dog Was just following Mike really. I wondered why it was difficult. Did all the moves, but with may rests / retries.
with Mike
Was just following Mike really. I wondered why it was difficult. Did all the moves, but with may rests / retries.
with Mike
SJPowderham1 1 Sep, 2018 Lead RP An uninspiring cam below the first crux was just enough to go on. Excellent after working a few moves on top rope.
An uninspiring cam below the first crux was just enough to go on. Excellent after working a few moves on top rope.
matildascott111 11 Aug, 2018 2nd
with amccann
with amccann
Teappleby 11 Aug, 2018 Lead β Bit of knowledge from speedys ascent. Good route.
with Shaun Goodall, Tilly Scott, Joel Kelly, Zoe Roberts , Olga Kondrashova, amccann
Bit of knowledge from speedys ascent. Good route.
with Shaun Goodall, Tilly Scott, Joel Kelly, Zoe Roberts , Olga Kondrashova, amccann
spidermonkey ??, 2018 - Freezing cold day, good friction if a little numb. This place gets all the wind chill. Reachy problem like everyone says. Nice enough tho
Freezing cold day, good friction if a little numb. This place gets all the wind chill. Reachy problem like everyone says. Nice enough tho
Stroppy 15 Jul, 2017 Solo O/S Spicy!!!
Spicy!!!
Jmpollard 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S A great line, with committing but steady moves. Bold!
with Hamish
A great line, with committing but steady moves. Bold!
with Hamish
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
chris smith 9 May, 2017 TR
Hidden 4 May, 2017 Lead β
Keith Swainson 1 Apr, 2017 Lead Seconded previously (unsuccessfully). Found a great short person way through the crux today with a thumb, undercut, press. Brilliant route and great bonus after putting my Ali Baba demons to bed.
with Georgie
Seconded previously (unsuccessfully). Found a great short person way through the crux today with a thumb, undercut, press. Brilliant route and great bonus after putting my Ali Baba demons to bed.
with Georgie
Georgie25 1 Apr, 2017 2nd struggled to reach the big pocket near the top
struggled to reach the big pocket near the top
williap 30 Oct, 2016 2nd
Hidden 18 Sep, 2016 TR rpt
Hidden 2 Sep, 2016 Lead RP
JohnHartley 23 Aug, 2016 TR
with stephen hartley
with stephen hartley
Robin Nichols 21 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Jim, Roget
with Jim, Roget
GPN 5 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with net
with net
Sam Marks 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Nice evening, another one of those routes i've always looked at and never got round to doing.
with Matt Capsey
Nice evening, another one of those routes i've always looked at and never got round to doing.
with Matt Capsey
Hidden 8 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
James Oakes 29 May, 2016 Lead G/U Great climb, not that bold with small wires and cams. Backed off a few years ago so good to get it done.
Great climb, not that bold with small wires and cams. Backed off a few years ago so good to get it done.
IanD353 8 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
with Ailsa
with Ailsa
Hidden 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
BJones 10 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Aidan Summerell
with Aidan Summerell
Dervey 11 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 10 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Not that hard if you are tall, still spent plenty time faffing though. Most the gear was a bit suspect apart from the bomber cam in the big pocket. Nice route.
Not that hard if you are tall, still spent plenty time faffing though. Most the gear was a bit suspect apart from the bomber cam in the big pocket. Nice route.
Matthew Ferrier 10 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt Undercutted break, much better beta. Can see perhaps why you might vote E2.
Undercutted break, much better beta. Can see perhaps why you might vote E2.
David Stevens 29 Jul, 2014 Lead β Had soloed the bottom before but onsighted the top half, didn't seem too tricky at 5ft 11
Had soloed the bottom before but onsighted the top half, didn't seem too tricky at 5ft 11
bencole ?Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 3 May, 2014 2nd
phildawson 22 Apr, 2014 TR RP
Alpenglow 22 Apr, 2014 TR dog 1 rest whilst figuring out the reachy crux. Very bold.
1 rest whilst figuring out the reachy crux. Very bold.
lcullum7 15 Mar, 2014 2nd
kyaizawa 15 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S The crux took some thinking and some commitment - a really really long reach and high feet. No way a 5b move, but I think I count as short...
The crux took some thinking and some commitment - a really really long reach and high feet. No way a 5b move, but I think I count as short...
robertmctague ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Nov, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Sep, 2013 TR β
Chris Reid 20 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Aug, 2013 2nd rpt
ferdia 16 Aug, 2013 2nd
Andy Moles 16 Aug, 2013 Lead RP Abseil inspection
with ferdia
Abseil inspection
with ferdia
Matthew Ferrier 6 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Easily the better finish. Tickling the sloper below the iron pocket was just at the limit of my reach - can't be much fun if you're tall and just lank through.
with My Mum
Easily the better finish. Tickling the sloper below the iron pocket was just at the limit of my reach - can't be much fun if you're tall and just lank through.
with My Mum
ian storey 27 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S a long reach with short arms. great route.
with tom martin
a long reach with short arms. great route.
with tom martin
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
Bloke on a Rope 9 Jun, 2013 2nd rpt
climberchristy 12 May, 2013 Lead O/S Great! Wanted this one for a long time. scary committing to bottom section above poor gear. Top crux move to eye is safe. Hard for the short! Must be 5c? Easy once at the eye. A brilliant route.
with bencole
Great! Wanted this one for a long time. scary committing to bottom section above poor gear. Top crux move to eye is safe. Hard for the short! Must be 5c? Easy once at the eye. A brilliant route.
with bencole
cherad 11 May, 2013 TR O/S
with Louise Bell
with Louise Bell
Hidden 6 May, 2013 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 4 Sep, 2012 2nd rpt Great route. Whoever reckons this is E2 is either very tall/talented or a sandbagger. Stiff E3 5c for my money compared to say Peak or Yorkshire Grit E3's. Big Greeny for example is significantly easier.
Great route. Whoever reckons this is E2 is either very tall/talented or a sandbagger. Stiff E3 5c for my money compared to say Peak or Yorkshire Grit E3's. Big Greeny for example is significantly easier.
Matt Harle 20 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2012 2nd β
Bloke on a Rope 21 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Nice 2nd E3 lead, placed the gear then forgot about it and cracked on coz its average at best, defo making progress well pleased!
Nice 2nd E3 lead, placed the gear then forgot about it and cracked on coz its average at best, defo making progress well pleased!
Hidden 15 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Rich Thornton ?Mar, 2011 2nd RP
with James Harland
with James Harland
Hidden 22 Aug, 2010 TR O/S
Hidden 17 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
odox 10 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Happy to get the onsite on this one. Fairly easy moves but easy to mess up if you rush into it. Great surprise at the top too!
Happy to get the onsite on this one. Fairly easy moves but easy to mess up if you rush into it. Great surprise at the top too!
Hidden 24 Jun, 2010 2nd
Bill Lawrence 17 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S was way to hot to be out there today, rock was very greasy, but the climb was still very enjoyable, spent about 15mins at the horizontal break having numerous attempts to reach the eye, but backing out due to crappy technique and the heat, finally got it in the end managing to keep the onsight, brilliant climb.
with tommy martin
was way to hot to be out there today, rock was very greasy, but the climb was still very enjoyable, spent about 15mins at the horizontal break having numerous attempts to reach the eye, but backing out due to crappy technique and the heat, finally got it in the end managing to keep the onsight, brilliant climb.
with tommy martin
Hidden 11 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
padski ?May, 2010 Lead RP
twigulus ?Mar, 2010 Lead O/S a good route. like everyone else i've no idea of the grade.
with Ed
a good route. like everyone else i've no idea of the grade.
with Ed
pudding ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with matthew gibbings
with matthew gibbings
padski ??, 2010 -
Hidden 1 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2009 TR dnf
Phill Mitch 31 May, 2009 Lead O/S Fantastic route.But a soft touch E3 I thought!
with mick
Fantastic route.But a soft touch E3 I thought!
with mick
liamoloughlin 24 May, 2009 Lead O/S Bold. The low gear is not awe inspiring and the reach is long.
Bold. The low gear is not awe inspiring and the reach is long.
Hidden 23 May, 2009 2nd
Franco Cookson ??, 2009 Lead O/S on a single rope with only one cam - felt pretty bold.
on a single rope with only one cam - felt pretty bold.
Ade Connor ??, 2009 -
ellie macpherson ?Jul, 2008 TR O/S shunt. great route
shunt. great route
C.J.Horsfield ?Jun, 2008 2nd
with thomas martin
with thomas martin
Ram MkiV 25 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with old man
with old man
Hidden 15 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 16 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S WOW! So glad this was my first E3, a great line on what is my favourite feature of Rock on the Moors. Superb.
WOW! So glad this was my first E3, a great line on what is my favourite feature of Rock on the Moors. Superb.
Franco Cookson OLD 30 Mar, 2008 Lead Brilliant! scramble up, hichfoot on the dinner plate, push, get the break arrange some nuts. (maybe put in a 0.5 cam- in the best hand hold). Left foot up, right foot up, push reech, sloper pocket. Wet!!!! Jesus! slip, pull up to the top, Jugs :D exposure and a nice finnal scramble. Beautiful solid E3!
Brilliant! scramble up, hichfoot on the dinner plate, push, get the break arrange some nuts. (maybe put in a 0.5 cam- in the best hand hold). Left foot up, right foot up, push reech, sloper pocket. Wet!!!! Jesus! slip, pull up to the top, Jugs :D exposure and a nice finnal scramble. Beautiful solid E3!
lukehunt 30 Mar, 2008 2nd
IanJackson 18 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S I made this one safe by using Mirco friends, Rp's and tricams to protect both 5b moves.
with ShaunL
I made this one safe by using Mirco friends, Rp's and tricams to protect both 5b moves.
with ShaunL
Hidden 12 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 2 Mar, 2003 2nd O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden 4 Jul, 1999 TR
Roget 19 Sep, 1998 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden ??, 1987 Lead
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 30
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set